First Oil Change on Hybrid Maverick XLT -- my notes / tips

[Mach 1]

I record my maintenance and notes right into the owners manual section of maintenance log. Then I show that to potential buyer. I even include dates and types/brands parts..

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[MaverIQ]

I fully intend to follow the FordPass app oil life monitor. My dealership has offered me a free first oil change, but only if I do it at or about 3750 miles.
Any (non-hostile) opinion on this?

I don't see why you wouldn't, especially if it's free? My dealer was actually surprised that I came in at the 3K mark but it's been 6 months since I picked up my Mav and that's about as long as I felt comfortable going before an oil change.

My FordPass App said I was at 64% and apparently the Ford suggested interval is 10K/1year which I think most car folk would say is probably too long if you are planning to keep this long term (i.e. beyond warranty).

 

[vicmaverick]

I'm curious with a hybrid how often do you really need to change the oil if you're doing a lot of City driving.

I've wondered this too. I have around 6500 miles on my hybrid and oil life is only at 61%. Don't know if i should get an oil change early and wait until oil life is done, which is what I usually do with ice vehicle.

 

[projectvortex]

Had my first last week at 4500 miles at the dealer. I do every 5000 since it’s easy to remember. This was early due to a long trip the next day.

 

[jdiaz]

Had my first last week at 4500 miles at the dealer. I do every 5000 since it’s easy to remember. This was early due to a long trip the next day.

Right, we do every 5k as well. This oil change was amazingly simple.

Don't know what's with the tiny original oil filter tho.

 

[PriusHater]

Called my dealer about doing the oil change, and they were like but you still have 3000 miles until it's due. Getting it done when the recall is taken care of though.

 

[raymaines]

I'm a little late to the party but I thought I'd share a picture of my homebuilt ramps that match the slope of my basement garage driveway. I also have a little ramp thingie for the oil bucket to sit on.

 

[MaverickTopGun]

picture of my homebuilt ramps

As long as there is solid wood, not hollow, where the tire spot rests on the high part of the ramps, should be safe to crawl underneath. I like to back up whatever I'm using by a couple of jack stands or something solid under the jack points in case the ramps give way. Safety.

 

[AutobahnSHO]

lol....I've never seen anyone draw a face on their oil filter before.

I know I'm skipping 6 pages of discussion- marking your filter (or other items in the car) makes sure that when a shop does it next time, you know they actually replaced it by looking if your marking is gone....

 

[Maverick2023]

Can you use 5w20?

 

[AutobahnSHO]

Wood can hold a metric f-ton of weight.

Never fails to amaze me when there's a tree vs. car battle and the car is all smashed and the tree is standing there with no damage like, "WHUT NOW?"

 

[MaverickTopGun]

Can you use 5w20?

Yes in Atlanta, where it is warm. That "5w" part is not much different than the "0w" part for temperatures above about 20F. You only need 0w when it gets super-cold in reality. Also, HTHS & kv100 both are the same in 5w20 vs. 0w20, the main driver of wear. (note: Hybrids need Xw20; except the Ecoboost calls for a 5w30.)

Actually some of us like 5w-20 better since less VII plastic-like polymers are used in full synthetic 5w-20 vs. 0w-20. That's a whole "organic chemistry, base oil visc, & piston deposits" discussion that we need not get into here.

In the case of a warranty claim on the engine, a small chance but possible I guess, technically Ford demands the use of WSS-M2C962-A1 spec oil only, which is always 0w-20, and must have the WSS spec printed on the back of the bottle or jug. Rarely, they might check your records to see what you used, but usually they just look to see that the oil looks kinda clean & is at or near the bottom dipstick line for warranty engine claims.

 

[bdaniel230]

Question where ìs the drain plug located?

On the bottom, center, rear of the oil pan, at least on that van. Depends on the vehicle. Generally at the lowest point of the crankcase where road obstacles won't take it out.

 

[bdaniel230]

Bdaniel230, you offered more knowledge then the whole thread put together. I usually won't touch these kinds of threads because people get into a pissing contest(see what I mean, earlier in the thread). There is always so much misinformation contained in them. Fbov has some excellent info as well.

If we want to learn about oil, filters, analysis, OCI we need to visit Bob is the oil guy .com. Be forewarned tho, there are a lot of physicists and PHD guys on there and sometimes you may feel intiminated.

I just want to mention that studies have been done and understood that changing the oil usually less then 5000m, the additives haven't hard time to be 'activated' and fully usable. So the consensus is that it actually is bad for the oil to be changed early. The oil reaches its peak lubrication maximum at around 5k.

I have been doing OA since the 70s and done extensive OA and determining OCI regarding such factors as driver habits, environmental, and fuel type usage. These external factors don't make it in the OA. They do determine/sku the outcome of the OA.

I was the one who determined the 1.9l VW diesel cam problems were due to not the oil specified but the engine design fault by using insufficient ZN/PH. A case of non roller hydraulic camshaft insufficient lubrication. Add some more Zn/Ph and you are good to go.

IMHO, the way I drive my hybrid, the engine mimics a constant speed generator rather then an ICE propulsion direct drive vehicle. Therefore I will take that into consideration and adjust maintenance schedule to reflect MY type of commuting.

Open to suggestions and ideas..

Here is the question I have about the idea of oil additives and change period. I have witnessed too many "10k oil change" engines that have had the bearings, especially the cam bearings, destroyed at 150k miles. Toyota has had a brag about 10k oil changes and I have been seeing more and more of early adopter engines failing around 150k, especially the Camry. When I see the oil start to go from dark honey color to dark chocolate it get's changed. Especially with the turbo on this mini engine. 2 Liters is enough to push this truck around but with that turbo, in the dry dusty climate I live in, this oil gets changed between 4 and 6k no matter. I would much rather pay $40 - $80 for an oil change than have to pay for a short block at 150k. And I am putting a catch can between the PCV and the turbo as soon as I can get the afternoon to devote to installing it, I have seen a few Ecoboost motors with turbo's that look like the inside of a chimney.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Can ANYONE show PROOF that a motor failed due to lack of oil changes ? In fact an article by one major university, ran one Taxi out of 101 taxis, (NEVER CHANGED THE OIL)( 50 ran on fossil oil, 50 on synthetic) for 100,000 miles only changing the filter and found no significant metallic particulates or wear on ANY of the 101.

I can, I worked at Chevy dealer I have seen engines with oil caked up all over inside. they come in with either a spun rod bearing or hey why is oil leaking from every were. as the oil return passages are all clogged so the oil leaks out from pressure build up. So I call a BS on any taxi went with never changing oil. No way no how.

For the OP why did you use 0w oil? Or does it call for 0W? I have never seen a car that does but maybe it does? that is for places that get minus 20f . What does the owners manual call for as far as oil weight? I would use that. they designed the engine i think they know more than you about oil weight for there design. . What brand oil who knows but there are some great youtube video on oil testing.

As far as oil monitor, look at youtube its not as good as some think,

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