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BeardedK

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Sorry but I am pretty sure that you need to use regular oil for the first 10,000 miles to allow the rings to seat properly. I have built a lot of motorcycle engines and after putting synthetic in from the start on a couple I have witnessed that the rings don't seat with synthetics properly. After the first 500 mile I always changed to synthetics. In automobile engines, unless you are racing it and really scrubbing the rings, 10,000 miles is about where the rings have seated and you will get the best of the synthetics and you won't get oil blow by because the compression ring hasn't seated.
Actually the oil from the factory (in the hybrid) is 0w-20, nothing special and not break-in oil. It would make sense that you use it your engine builds, but Ford’s not using it in regular passenger vehicles. If anything the procedure would be to run at light to moderate load for a few hundred miles and change, but there’s no mention of that in the book and the dealer said stick to the manual, even for the first one.
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TheGriffin1313

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"personal experience and opinion"

as easy as this may be for most to do, I personally have the dealer do all the maintenance on the car when under warranty. It may cost more in the short term but Ford or the dealer can never have the excuse of not covering issues under warranty. Once the warranty expires I do my own maintenance.

Nothing like having a service history kept buy ford to rub in their face when poo poo goes sideways. They have zero excuses when they are the ones performing the service.
 

Maverick Joe

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I'm not doubting you, I'm just curious. Why are the homemade ramps better than the store-bought ones?
Wider and less tendency for ramp to get kicked out or under by wheel. Plus, do you really want thousands of pounds of steel above you being suspended by a piece of hollow plastic?
 

CG - All the way

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Can ANYONE show PROOF that a motor failed due to lack of oil changes ? In fact an article by one major university, ran one Taxi out of 101 taxis, (NEVER CHANGED THE OIL)( 50 ran on fossil oil, 50 on synthetic) for 100,000 miles only changing the filter and found no significant metallic particulates or wear on ANY of the 101.
Back in the day, a man in my little hometown, drove only pontiacs. He never changed the oil and I know he drove two to about 70k miles, each. Do not know if he changed filters, but presume he did. He would add oil as needed. In those days, vehicles were considered "wore out" if the reached 100K. This pre-dated synthetic oil. Not recommending, just saying...... I believe I will follow recommendations at minimum for my Maverick. Who knows there may be another new type of oil before I get it!!!
 

bdaniel230

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"personal experience and opinion"

as easy as this may be for most to do, I personally have the dealer do all the maintenance on the car when under warranty. It may cost more in the short term but Ford or the dealer can never have the excuse of not covering issues under warranty. Once the warranty expires I do my own maintenance.

Nothing like having a service history kept buy ford to rub in their face when poo poo goes sideways. They have zero excuses when they are the ones performing the service.
I totally agree. I had all of the maintenance of my 19 Escape and my 14 Focus done by the dealership, even after the warranty expired. It makes it so much easier to sell a vehicle that has all the regular maintenance performed at one place and even better if it is at a dealership. The paperwork does matter on resale. That said, I had both the Escape and Focus changed to synthetic oil after the initial breakin, about 10k and I even brought my own oil. I got a surcharge for the oil change but since they didn't sell Royal Purple I had to bring my own. I like keeping up with my own vehicle and do modifications myself, but the service is always done at the dealership as well as the warranty maintenance services.
 

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Taylorink8

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I've got some store bought ones made out of reinforced heavy duty plastic. They seem sturdy, but I'm always paranoid they'll give out.
I've had the cheaper plastic HF ramps for over 5 years and used them dozens of times. They look new and can hold over 13K lbs. Definitely no need to be that paranoid. Still should be safe and chalk the wheels but I love mine. Home built are also great if you have the wood but when I need some I didn't have enough spare scrap lying around.
 

MaverickTopGun

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It makes it so much easier to sell a vehicle that has all the regular maintenance performed at one place and even better if it is at a dealership. The paperwork does matter on resale. .......but the service is always done at the dealership as well as the warranty maintenance services.
Basically true. CarFax service history allows for us to put in at-home service events.

Remember the popular CarFax ( https://www.carfax.com/Service/garage ) tracks maintenance publicly. In fact, many dealerships actually report to it automatically.
Independent repair shops make records into it, resulting in a more complete record than just a dealership database alone.

Do-It-Yourself oil changes (and any DIY maintenance events) can be logged there. As easy as oil changes are, might as well do them at home, for those that have basic skills to do it. If you carefully install the oil filter and make sure the oil drain plug is torqued to 21 ft-lbs as needed, it's hard to mess it up.

I got an old Toyota not long ago, and was impressed when I saw the CarFax service history, from somebody who had zero mechanical skills or no time, & had the dealership do "easy" things like put new batteries in, change wiper blades & air filters, change Oil & Filter, rotate tires etc., ..... in addition to all the more difficult jobs like transmission fluid changes, hard fixes, brakes, spark plugs, etc. Detailed and long history, over 11 years.

Accident history usually makes it in to the CarFax history report too. Not always though. A lot of body shops seem to log them in to CarFax automatically.
Example at https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=CUL_1&vin=1FADP5CU5GL112767
 
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bdaniel230

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Basically true. CarFax service history allows for us to put in at-home service events.

Remember the popular CarFax ( https://www.carfax.com/Service/garage ) tracks maintenance publicly. In fact, many dealerships actually report to it automatically.
Independent repair shops make records into it, resulting in a more complete record than just a dealership database alone.

Do-It-Yourself oil changes (and any DIY maintenance events) can be logged there. As easy as oil changes are, might as well do them at home, for those that have basic skills to do it. If you carefully install the oil filter and make sure the oil drain plug is torqued to 21 ft-lbs as needed, it's hard to mess it up.

I got an old Toyota not long ago, and was impressed when I saw the CarFax service history, from somebody who had zero mechanical skills or no time, & had the dealership do "easy" things like put new batteries in, change wiper blades & air filters, change Oil & Filter, rotate tires etc., ..... in addition to all the more difficult jobs like transmission fluid changes, hard fixes, brakes, spark plugs, etc. Detailed and long history, over 11 years.

Accident history usually makes it in to the CarFax history report too. Not always though. A lot of body shops seem to log them in to CarFax automatically.
Example at https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=CUL_1&vin=1FADP5CU5GL112767
Tell me. If you had two identical cars with similar mileage and one was regularly serviced by the dealership and the other was reportedly serviced by the owner, which would you trust more?
 

MaverickTopGun

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I would trust an owner more, as long as it was only the easy stuff he was doing.
That tells me it was an owner who is paying attention, really listens to his vehicle, knows basic maintenance with it, and is willing to put the time & care in to it. It's his rig.

Big jobs need dealerships. We are in complete agreement on the special-tool & diagnostic jobs. ...

Taking it to a dealer all the time for the easy stuff is fine though. Nothing wrong with that for the most part. Dealerships screw things up too often, and for a driver not into opening the hood, this can be bad.

Example: Folks like me want the oil fill level to be nearly perfect and the drain plug torqued right when I DIY. .... Dealerships very often over-fill it and the junior technician in a hurry cross-threads the plug or at least doesn't torque it correctly.
 

bdaniel230

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I would trust an owner more, as long as it was only the easy stuff he was doing.
That tells me it was an owner who is paying attention, really listens to his vehicle, knows basic maintenance with it, and is willing to put the time & care in to it. It's his rig.

Big jobs need dealerships. We are in complete agreement on the special-tool & diagnostic jobs. ...

Taking it to a dealer all the time for the easy stuff is fine though. Nothing wrong with that for the most part. Dealerships screw things up too often, and for a driver not into opening the hood, this can be bad.

Example: Folks like me want the oil fill level to be nearly perfect and the drain plug torqued right when I DIY. .... Dealerships very often over-fill it and the junior technician in a hurry cross-threads the plug or at least doesn't torque it correctly.
I doubt I, and I believe this is not just me or I would be doing all my own maintenance, that I would be as easily trusting of a private owner's knowledge of maintenance of a vehicle. Oil changes are "easy" but also easily botched. Look at the record of Minute Lube and other express oil businesses. I know I had the need once to use Minute Lube when I was out of town and my van was in dire need of an oil change as I had come from a colder climate and was spending over a month in southern Arizona. They successfully stripped the drain plug in the crankcase and I nearly lost the engine because the technician hadn't reported the problem, either because he was a coward or because he had no idea of what had happened. And that was someone that was doing many changes a day. An owner, though well-intentioned, may or may not be sufficiently experienced to perform maintenance. For example, checking the sealing surface of the filter to see if any of the previous filter's seal remained after removal. Cleaning the threads and sealing the surface of the filter and adding clean oil to the filter seal prior to installation. Filling the filter so that the oil pump doesn't go dry for the seconds when the filter is filling. All of that contributes to the performance of the engine and there are many other small things that go into regular service that most owners don't think about and few understand. I have raced motorcycles and off-road vehicles so I understand it and I know enough to not skip these things, but I have my vehicle done by the dealership for one reason, to keep the resale value as high as possible. Does that mean I think I am better than those that do their own service? Nope, I am just greedy about the investment in a new vehicle.
 
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Mymaverick2021

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Put right over 3k on my Maverick since picking her up in mid January, and, with the smaller factory filter thought I'd go ahead and change it a little early. Procedure is straight forward, even with the bajillion T27 fasteners you need to remove to take the splash shield down. Threw on a Motorcraft FL910S and filled her up with 5.5 qts of Valvoline 0W-20. All in all pretty productive morning and even got to put my new DeWalt 3/8 socket set from Costco to work. Definitely didn't need it, but a great buy at $20 and takes up less space then my Husky that I kept behind the backseat.

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Question where ìs the drain plug located?
 
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fbov

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I'm curious with a hybrid how often do you really need to change the oil if you're doing a lot of City driving.
I follow the OLM, and it's averaged 16.5K miles between changes (after an intitial change at 5K miles). The OLM will discount EV miles, leading to an extended mileage interval. I've attached my oil analysis data here, and in the other hybrid oil change thread.... (Note that an asterisk (*) indicates oil additive.)
Internal combustion engines require oil changes at least once a year no matter how many miles you drive. Acids and other combustion byproducts contaminate the oil and start destroying the engine from the inside out.
Especially if the engine doesn't reach operating temperature by going to the local market.
Modern oils are doing a lot of things old oils couldn't dream of. That's why one does used oil analysis, so one can put advice like this in context with modern oil technology, and not worry about using the OLM.
- acid control is measured by TBN (total base number). It starts ~8 and falls with oil use. Levels above 2 support extending the oil use. The OLM flag is conservative!
- "insolubles" would measure particulate byproducts. Water, antifreeze and fuel contamination are directly measured. All are 0.0 except fuel, which is reported as ">0.5%" because there was some detected.
- engine destruction is measured by the metals in the top. Low level Fe and Cu are normal.

A word about fuel contamination.

Short trips that don't make operating temperature will increase fuel contamination in the oil. I tested this idea with the C-Max, eliminating both fuel contamination and flashpoint depression by taking a long drive before the oil change. C-Max oil analysis averages showed no wear increase due to the fuel in the oil. I see low levels of fuel contamination as SOP if you take a lot of short trips. It does not seem to impact ICE life; the C-Max forum has no mention.

My take is to listen to the OLM, even if it seems to have missed a change!
 

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Mach 1

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Bdaniel230, you offered more knowledge then the whole thread put together. I usually won't touch these kinds of threads because people get into a pissing contest(see what I mean, earlier in the thread). There is always so much misinformation contained in them. Fbov has some excellent info as well.

If we want to learn about oil, filters, analysis, OCI we need to visit Bob is the oil guy .com. Be forewarned tho, there are a lot of physicists and PHD guys on there and sometimes you may feel intiminated.

I just want to mention that studies have been done and understood that changing the oil usually less then 5000m, the additives haven't hard time to be 'activated' and fully usable. So the consensus is that it actually is bad for the oil to be changed early. The oil reaches its peak lubrication maximum at around 5k.

I have been doing OA since the 70s and done extensive OA and determining OCI regarding such factors as driver habits, environmental, and fuel type usage. These external factors don't make it in the OA. They do determine/sku the outcome of the OA.

I was the one who determined the 1.9l VW diesel cam problems were due to not the oil specified but the engine design fault by using insufficient ZN/PH. A case of non roller hydraulic camshaft insufficient lubrication. Add some more Zn/Ph and you are good to go.

IMHO, the way I drive my hybrid, the engine mimics a constant speed generator rather then an ICE propulsion direct drive vehicle. Therefore I will take that into consideration and adjust maintenance schedule to reflect MY type of commuting.

Open to suggestions and ideas..
 

Randy H.

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I fully intend to follow the FordPass app oil life monitor. My dealership has offered me a free first oil change, but only if I do it at or about 3750 miles.
Any (non-hostile) opinion on this?
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