EcoBoost Oil Change Maintenance Tips

[Block]

I've used very strong very small magnets. I have never cut the dirty filter apart though.
Can also put one on oil plug screw (on my cars - I dont own a Maverick). I think long ago I put them on oil pan back when they were steel/magnetic.

I'd be willing to try some filter mags, but not for that price. Holy crap. It's just a magnet, right? I think the same thing can be achieved with smaller cheaper magnets placed around the bottom of the filter or along the sides?

First time I've seen that FRAM filter and I just went down the rabbit hole of info on BITOG. What specific Royal Purple one are they referencing that it replicates? And is the one you are using the size of the FL1A that brings everything to 6 quarts? Maybe I missed it, but do you have a link to the exact filter you used? I'd like to do some research on all that. Liking what I read so far.

Sponsored

 

[Marcusgtzg81]

Plenty of info out there about how to do oil changes, this is some different info. Passing along a couple of my oil change tips - some just for the Maverick and some I've developed over the years.

First, specific to the Maverick EcoBoost - I have a 24 Lariat w/ 4k tow, but believe all will be the same. You can run the traditional FL1A size filter on the Maverick. No clearance issues with engine or under shield or anything other than a cooling hose, which is taken care of with the slight bend. The cooling hose is near the oil filter and is held in place to the engine with a stamped steel bracket. If you bend part of the bracket slightly toward the front of the truck with a pliers wrench or similar, it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the hose, but it does create more space for the bigger oil filter. It's easy to bend and doesn't take much movement, but gets you the extra clearance. I put arrows in my pictures where to bend. Essentially you want to make it about straight up and down vs. bent back toward the engine like it comes. If running a bigger filter for essentially the same cost isn't enough, the extra oil capacity is a nice bonus. Not only for extra oil itself, but with the FL1A sized filter, the oil capacity goes to exactly 6 quarts and reads right at the full mark on the dipstick. No more measuring and storing half quarts because 5.5 quarts is just plain annoying. I am running a Fram Synthetic Endurance filter in the pics, I happen to think it's the best filter on the market (basically a different color Royal Purple filter), but you can run a FL1A or any filter of that size, like a Wix 51515 or similar.

Now for generic tips I have picked up over the years and believe help with ease of oil changes and longevity. First, there are companies that make funnels that screw in place of oil fil caps vs. traditional funnels that just sit in the hold or maybe lean against things and stay in place if you are lucky. They are more expensive than traditional funnels, but to me - the ease of knowing I always have the exact funnel, it won't spill or slip or leak or anything that can happen with other funnels is worth it. They are sturdy enough you can even leave the oil container in the funnel if you like to get the last drop out of them. I've been using them for years on different vehicles. You can buy them in sets or individually, and I believe they are basically all the same. The one I got for my Maverick is made by MichaelPro and came from Amazon. It's a nice snug fit, and if you give it a chance, I think you'll like them for all of your vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-M...fix=michaelpro+mp009076,industrial,154&sr=1-1

My last tip, is for longevity. Also for years now, I have been running GoldPlug magnetic drain plugs in my vehicles, as well as FilterMags oil filter magnets on everything with canister style oil filters (including my Zero Turn mower). The GoldPlugs are surely enough by themselves. I like them because they are high quality, very strong magnets, made in USA (Montana), and the selection is good enough that you can get one that is the exact specs as the factory plug - so it uses the same wrench, etc. I find it pretty typical to get a gray film on the end of the magnet at each oil change - and that is stuff that would be floating around otherwise. The correct one for the Maverick is AP-04, and spare crush washers are SW-01. You can buy them from several places, but here is the official link:

https://goldplug.com/shop/ap04/

The FilterMags I have started using are OVERKILL for sure. But if you like overkill, these are the ticket. These are very powerful, large magnets, that are shaped to fit your oil filter. You can run a single or two of them if you have space (you do on the Maverick) and are willing to spend the extra money. Have seen filters cut open with these magnets and they clearly work. The nice thing about these vs. the drain plug, is you see a lot more of the oil crossing over the magnets vs. only what might be in range of the drain plug. They are pricey, but they can go with you when you change vehicles or be resold even -- more of an investment. For the Maverick stock sized filter, you would want the SS300 or SS300 pair. If you use the FL1A sized filter, you would want the SS365 or SS365 pair. They can be found elsewhere (cheaper), but linking to the official site for info:

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300-pair/

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-365/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss365-pair/

That's it for now. Feel free to share thoughts or anything that you might want to add. I realize these aren't for everyone, but some will appreciate it.

I just changed my oil about an hour ago and noticed there is a under carriage opening right where the oil drain plug is located so I was wondering if it can be removed to avoid having to remove like 10 or 12 torx screws to remove the cover. Here is what I found in the pictures, I think we can actually remove it with just a screw and put it back w/o issues

 

[Webber71]

I use the same drain plugs. Love the quality of their plugs. Thanks for the info on the funnel. Just ordered.

 

[Mark S.]

One more quick tip: You can limit the mess from filter removal by first placing a quart-sized plastic baggie around it. Loosen the filter enough that you can turn it by hand, but not enough to start leaking oil, then place your baggie around it being careful to ensure the top of the baggie is above the top of the filter. Finish turning the filter out by hand and all the oil that would normally drain out over your hand will go in the baggie.

 

[william k]

Plenty of info out there about how to do oil changes, this is some different info. Passing along a couple of my oil change tips - some just for the Maverick and some I've developed over the years.

First, specific to the Maverick EcoBoost - I have a 24 Lariat w/ 4k tow, but believe all will be the same. You can run the traditional FL1A size filter on the Maverick. No clearance issues with engine or under shield or anything other than a cooling hose, which is taken care of with the slight bend. The cooling hose is near the oil filter and is held in place to the engine with a stamped steel bracket. If you bend part of the bracket slightly toward the front of the truck with a pliers wrench or similar, it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the hose, but it does create more space for the bigger oil filter. It's easy to bend and doesn't take much movement, but gets you the extra clearance. I put arrows in my pictures where to bend. Essentially you want to make it about straight up and down vs. bent back toward the engine like it comes. If running a bigger filter for essentially the same cost isn't enough, the extra oil capacity is a nice bonus. Not only for extra oil itself, but with the FL1A sized filter, the oil capacity goes to exactly 6 quarts and reads right at the full mark on the dipstick. No more measuring and storing half quarts because 5.5 quarts is just plain annoying. I am running a Fram Synthetic Endurance filter in the pics, I happen to think it's the best filter on the market (basically a different color Royal Purple filter), but you can run a FL1A or any filter of that size, like a Wix 51515 or similar.

Now for generic tips I have picked up over the years and believe help with ease of oil changes and longevity. First, there are companies that make funnels that screw in place of oil fil caps vs. traditional funnels that just sit in the hold or maybe lean against things and stay in place if you are lucky. They are more expensive than traditional funnels, but to me - the ease of knowing I always have the exact funnel, it won't spill or slip or leak or anything that can happen with other funnels is worth it. They are sturdy enough you can even leave the oil container in the funnel if you like to get the last drop out of them. I've been using them for years on different vehicles. You can buy them in sets or individually, and I believe they are basically all the same. The one I got for my Maverick is made by MichaelPro and came from Amazon. It's a nice snug fit, and if you give it a chance, I think you'll like them for all of your vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-MP009076-Spill-Free-Vehicles-Hands-Free/dp/B0BBTTJNKX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1R9RV8NTEAAP5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3h4SmaZCzlZTxNrioTfRbA.5l-CgqDYQIeZs2Z7Yqg79JNbdVR9oCi_nLSJRk5EcyM&dib_tag=se&keywords=MichaelPro+MP009076&qid=1716447198&s=industrial&sprefix=michaelpro+mp009076,industrial,154&sr=1-1

My last tip, is for longevity. Also for years now, I have been running GoldPlug magnetic drain plugs in my vehicles, as well as FilterMags oil filter magnets on everything with canister style oil filters (including my Zero Turn mower). The GoldPlugs are surely enough by themselves. I like them because they are high quality, very strong magnets, made in USA (Montana), and the selection is good enough that you can get one that is the exact specs as the factory plug - so it uses the same wrench, etc. I find it pretty typical to get a gray film on the end of the magnet at each oil change - and that is stuff that would be floating around otherwise. The correct one for the Maverick is AP-04, and spare crush washers are SW-01. You can buy them from several places, but here is the official link:

https://goldplug.com/shop/ap04/

The FilterMags I have started using are OVERKILL for sure. But if you like overkill, these are the ticket. These are very powerful, large magnets, that are shaped to fit your oil filter. You can run a single or two of them if you have space (you do on the Maverick) and are willing to spend the extra money. Have seen filters cut open with these magnets and they clearly work. The nice thing about these vs. the drain plug, is you see a lot more of the oil crossing over the magnets vs. only what might be in range of the drain plug. They are pricey, but they can go with you when you change vehicles or be resold even -- more of an investment. For the Maverick stock sized filter, you would want the SS300 or SS300 pair. If you use the FL1A sized filter, you would want the SS365 or SS365 pair. They can be found elsewhere (cheaper), but linking to the official site for info:

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300-pair/

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-365/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss365-pair/

That's it for now. Feel free to share thoughts or anything that you might want to add. I realize these aren't for everyone, but some will appreciate it.

 

[william k]

I would have a problem about having the oil filter being below the more robust oil pan as compared to the oil filter "thin skin" !

 

[MatthewPK]

I'd be willing to try some filter mags, but not for that price. Holy crap. It's just a magnet, right? I think the same thing can be achieved with smaller cheaper magnets placed around the bottom of the filter or along the sides? Smaller ones would allow for just as much coverage without the need for a specific curvature.

I see you mentioned FilterMag being in Montana but their mailing address is in AZ? They are just getting the magnets from someone in MT? Any idea what the name of the shop they are buying from is?

I ended up going with a Stahlbus over the magnetic drain plug you linked. But I have it saved in my bookmarks for future reference. The link is correct for the EB's regardless of what Amazon says - same as OP's drain plug it's M12x1.75.

First time I've seen that FRAM filter and I just went down the rabbit hole of info on BITOG. What specific Royal Purple one are they referencing that it replicates? And is the one you are using the size of the FL1A that brings everything to 6 quarts? Maybe I missed it, but do you have a link to the exact filter you used? I'd like to do some research on all that. Liking what I read so far.

I did a test where I measured the interior volume of the FL1A versus the OEM filter to prove that it can hold the excess capacity to bring to total to 6qt.
However the FL1A bypasses earlier.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/comparison-of-various-larger-oil-filters.42790/

 

[Fordoldfart]

Fl-1A, FL-300, Fl-400-s, FL-910s and some others will fit.
I just did my first oil change on my 2024 with 1200 miles. I find it interesting I think you can remove the drain plug without dropping the shield, but no way to get to the filter without dropping the shield.

 

[aurfalien]

Thank you

Plenty of info out there about how to do oil changes, this is some different info. Passing along a couple of my oil change tips - some just for the Maverick and some I've developed over the years.

First, specific to the Maverick EcoBoost - I have a 24 Lariat w/ 4k tow, but believe all will be the same. You can run the traditional FL1A size filter on the Maverick. No clearance issues with engine or under shield or anything other than a cooling hose, which is taken care of with the slight bend. The cooling hose is near the oil filter and is held in place to the engine with a stamped steel bracket. If you bend part of the bracket slightly toward the front of the truck with a pliers wrench or similar, it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the hose, but it does create more space for the bigger oil filter. It's easy to bend and doesn't take much movement, but gets you the extra clearance. I put arrows in my pictures where to bend. Essentially you want to make it about straight up and down vs. bent back toward the engine like it comes. If running a bigger filter for essentially the same cost isn't enough, the extra oil capacity is a nice bonus. Not only for extra oil itself, but with the FL1A sized filter, the oil capacity goes to exactly 6 quarts and reads right at the full mark on the dipstick. No more measuring and storing half quarts because 5.5 quarts is just plain annoying. I am running a Fram Synthetic Endurance filter in the pics, I happen to think it's the best filter on the market (basically a different color Royal Purple filter), but you can run a FL1A or any filter of that size, like a Wix 51515 or similar.

Now for generic tips I have picked up over the years and believe help with ease of oil changes and longevity. First, there are companies that make funnels that screw in place of oil fil caps vs. traditional funnels that just sit in the hold or maybe lean against things and stay in place if you are lucky. They are more expensive than traditional funnels, but to me - the ease of knowing I always have the exact funnel, it won't spill or slip or leak or anything that can happen with other funnels is worth it. They are sturdy enough you can even leave the oil container in the funnel if you like to get the last drop out of them. I've been using them for years on different vehicles. You can buy them in sets or individually, and I believe they are basically all the same. The one I got for my Maverick is made by MichaelPro and came from Amazon. It's a nice snug fit, and if you give it a chance, I think you'll like them for all of your vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-MP009076-Spill-Free-Vehicles-Hands-Free/dp/B0BBTTJNKX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1R9RV8NTEAAP5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3h4SmaZCzlZTxNrioTfRbA.5l-CgqDYQIeZs2Z7Yqg79JNbdVR9oCi_nLSJRk5EcyM&dib_tag=se&keywords=MichaelPro+MP009076&qid=1716447198&s=industrial&sprefix=michaelpro+mp009076,industrial,154&sr=1-1

My last tip, is for longevity. Also for years now, I have been running GoldPlug magnetic drain plugs in my vehicles, as well as FilterMags oil filter magnets on everything with canister style oil filters (including my Zero Turn mower). The GoldPlugs are surely enough by themselves. I like them because they are high quality, very strong magnets, made in USA (Montana), and the selection is good enough that you can get one that is the exact specs as the factory plug - so it uses the same wrench, etc. I find it pretty typical to get a gray film on the end of the magnet at each oil change - and that is stuff that would be floating around otherwise. The correct one for the Maverick is AP-04, and spare crush washers are SW-01. You can buy them from several places, but here is the official link:

https://goldplug.com/shop/ap04/

The FilterMags I have started using are OVERKILL for sure. But if you like overkill, these are the ticket. These are very powerful, large magnets, that are shaped to fit your oil filter. You can run a single or two of them if you have space (you do on the Maverick) and are willing to spend the extra money. Have seen filters cut open with these magnets and they clearly work. The nice thing about these vs. the drain plug, is you see a lot more of the oil crossing over the magnets vs. only what might be in range of the drain plug. They are pricey, but they can go with you when you change vehicles or be resold even -- more of an investment. For the Maverick stock sized filter, you would want the SS300 or SS300 pair. If you use the FL1A sized filter, you would want the SS365 or SS365 pair. They can be found elsewhere (cheaper), but linking to the official site for info:

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300-pair/

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-365/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss365-pair/

That's it for now. Feel free to share thoughts or anything that you might want to add. I realize these aren't for everyone, but some will appreciate it.

Thank you very much for the valuable nuggets. I'm about 700 miles away from my first change which will be at 1.5K and am arming myself with info.

For any one thinking that I'm doing it too early and you are probably right, welp that's simply how I roll. Plus the temperature deltas where I live and lots of stop and go does warrant more frequent oil changes I think.

The magnet around the filter seems like a no brainer and great idea. However the drain plug quality, even though I'm not concerned with it being magnetized is fantastic! I just don't see it as impactful as magnets around the filter medium itself. But that drain plug looks a real good!

So that I'm sure, the filter linked below is indeed what you are using?

https://www.fram.com/engine-oil-filter-fe8a

And I do love the larger oil capacity as saving leftover tidbits of oil is somewhat PITA.

 

[A.Bursell]

So that I'm sure, the filter linked below is indeed what you are using?

https://www.fram.com/engine-oil-filter-fe8a

And I do love the larger oil capacity as saving leftover tidbits of oil is somewhat PITA.

Yes- this is the old-school Mopar/Ford filter that they used for years. If you're not sure or want a different brand or model, just search for something like 88 Mustang 5.0 and it will be the correct filter.

 

[Block]

Same here...15 years ago I bought a bunch of small very strong yet cheap magnets for remote controlled airplane (various uses)... I figured why not put some at bottom of filters.
I usually have two of them on the end of the filter.... No idea how much it helps but it can't hurt. One guy up above seems to think none of this would ever help at all,.but if you look at your dirty oil it's amazing how many little bits of metal are in the oil.
I might be fooling myself though because usually I dump the oil filter in the same drain container so the little bits of metal might be coming from the filter but I think once or twice I made sure not to do that and there was still bits of metal in the oil. Also chunks of rubber - I guess liquid gasket falling off (2013 Focus).

I've used very strong very small magnets. I have never cut the dirty filter apart though.
Can also put one on oil plug screw (on my cars - I dont own a Maverick). I think long ago I put them on oil pan back when they were steel/magnetic.

 

[TimL]

Plenty of info out there about how to do oil changes, this is some different info. Passing along a couple of my oil change tips - some just for the Maverick and some I've developed over the years.

First, specific to the Maverick EcoBoost - I have a 24 Lariat w/ 4k tow, but believe all will be the same. You can run the traditional FL1A size filter on the Maverick. No clearance issues with engine or under shield or anything other than a cooling hose, which is taken care of with the slight bend. The cooling hose is near the oil filter and is held in place to the engine with a stamped steel bracket. If you bend part of the bracket slightly toward the front of the truck with a pliers wrench or similar, it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the hose, but it does create more space for the bigger oil filter. It's easy to bend and doesn't take much movement, but gets you the extra clearance. I put arrows in my pictures where to bend. Essentially you want to make it about straight up and down vs. bent back toward the engine like it comes. If running a bigger filter for essentially the same cost isn't enough, the extra oil capacity is a nice bonus. Not only for extra oil itself, but with the FL1A sized filter, the oil capacity goes to exactly 6 quarts and reads right at the full mark on the dipstick. No more measuring and storing half quarts because 5.5 quarts is just plain annoying. I am running a Fram Synthetic Endurance filter in the pics, I happen to think it's the best filter on the market (basically a different color Royal Purple filter), but you can run a FL1A or any filter of that size, like a Wix 51515 or similar.

Now for generic tips I have picked up over the years and believe help with ease of oil changes and longevity. First, there are companies that make funnels that screw in place of oil fil caps vs. traditional funnels that just sit in the hold or maybe lean against things and stay in place if you are lucky. They are more expensive than traditional funnels, but to me - the ease of knowing I always have the exact funnel, it won't spill or slip or leak or anything that can happen with other funnels is worth it. They are sturdy enough you can even leave the oil container in the funnel if you like to get the last drop out of them. I've been using them for years on different vehicles. You can buy them in sets or individually, and I believe they are basically all the same. The one I got for my Maverick is made by MichaelPro and came from Amazon. It's a nice snug fit, and if you give it a chance, I think you'll like them for all of your vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-MP009076-Spill-Free-Vehicles-Hands-Free/dp/B0BBTTJNKX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1R9RV8NTEAAP5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3h4SmaZCzlZTxNrioTfRbA.5l-CgqDYQIeZs2Z7Yqg79JNbdVR9oCi_nLSJRk5EcyM&dib_tag=se&keywords=MichaelPro+MP009076&qid=1716447198&s=industrial&sprefix=michaelpro+mp009076,industrial,154&sr=1-1

My last tip, is for longevity. Also for years now, I have been running GoldPlug magnetic drain plugs in my vehicles, as well as FilterMags oil filter magnets on everything with canister style oil filters (including my Zero Turn mower). The GoldPlugs are surely enough by themselves. I like them because they are high quality, very strong magnets, made in USA (Montana), and the selection is good enough that you can get one that is the exact specs as the factory plug - so it uses the same wrench, etc. I find it pretty typical to get a gray film on the end of the magnet at each oil change - and that is stuff that would be floating around otherwise. The correct one for the Maverick is AP-04, and spare crush washers are SW-01. You can buy them from several places, but here is the official link:

https://goldplug.com/shop/ap04/

The FilterMags I have started using are OVERKILL for sure. But if you like overkill, these are the ticket. These are very powerful, large magnets, that are shaped to fit your oil filter. You can run a single or two of them if you have space (you do on the Maverick) and are willing to spend the extra money. Have seen filters cut open with these magnets and they clearly work. The nice thing about these vs. the drain plug, is you see a lot more of the oil crossing over the magnets vs. only what might be in range of the drain plug. They are pricey, but they can go with you when you change vehicles or be resold even -- more of an investment. For the Maverick stock sized filter, you would want the SS300 or SS300 pair. If you use the FL1A sized filter, you would want the SS365 or SS365 pair. They can be found elsewhere (cheaper), but linking to the official site for info:

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300-pair/

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-365/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss365-pair/

That's it for now. Feel free to share thoughts or anything that you might want to add. I realize these aren't for everyone, but some will appreciate it.

 

[TimL]

Plenty of info out there about how to do oil changes, this is some different info. Passing along a couple of my oil change tips - some just for the Maverick and some I've developed over the years.

First, specific to the Maverick EcoBoost - I have a 24 Lariat w/ 4k tow, but believe all will be the same. You can run the traditional FL1A size filter on the Maverick. No clearance issues with engine or under shield or anything other than a cooling hose, which is taken care of with the slight bend. The cooling hose is near the oil filter and is held in place to the engine with a stamped steel bracket. If you bend part of the bracket slightly toward the front of the truck with a pliers wrench or similar, it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the hose, but it does create more space for the bigger oil filter. It's easy to bend and doesn't take much movement, but gets you the extra clearance. I put arrows in my pictures where to bend. Essentially you want to make it about straight up and down vs. bent back toward the engine like it comes. If running a bigger filter for essentially the same cost isn't enough, the extra oil capacity is a nice bonus. Not only for extra oil itself, but with the FL1A sized filter, the oil capacity goes to exactly 6 quarts and reads right at the full mark on the dipstick. No more measuring and storing half quarts because 5.5 quarts is just plain annoying. I am running a Fram Synthetic Endurance filter in the pics, I happen to think it's the best filter on the market (basically a different color Royal Purple filter), but you can run a FL1A or any filter of that size, like a Wix 51515 or similar.

Now for generic tips I have picked up over the years and believe help with ease of oil changes and longevity. First, there are companies that make funnels that screw in place of oil fil caps vs. traditional funnels that just sit in the hold or maybe lean against things and stay in place if you are lucky. They are more expensive than traditional funnels, but to me - the ease of knowing I always have the exact funnel, it won't spill or slip or leak or anything that can happen with other funnels is worth it. They are sturdy enough you can even leave the oil container in the funnel if you like to get the last drop out of them. I've been using them for years on different vehicles. You can buy them in sets or individually, and I believe they are basically all the same. The one I got for my Maverick is made by MichaelPro and came from Amazon. It's a nice snug fit, and if you give it a chance, I think you'll like them for all of your vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-MP009076-Spill-Free-Vehicles-Hands-Free/dp/B0BBTTJNKX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1R9RV8NTEAAP5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3h4SmaZCzlZTxNrioTfRbA.5l-CgqDYQIeZs2Z7Yqg79JNbdVR9oCi_nLSJRk5EcyM&dib_tag=se&keywords=MichaelPro+MP009076&qid=1716447198&s=industrial&sprefix=michaelpro+mp009076,industrial,154&sr=1-1

My last tip, is for longevity. Also for years now, I have been running GoldPlug magnetic drain plugs in my vehicles, as well as FilterMags oil filter magnets on everything with canister style oil filters (including my Zero Turn mower). The GoldPlugs are surely enough by themselves. I like them because they are high quality, very strong magnets, made in USA (Montana), and the selection is good enough that you can get one that is the exact specs as the factory plug - so it uses the same wrench, etc. I find it pretty typical to get a gray film on the end of the magnet at each oil change - and that is stuff that would be floating around otherwise. The correct one for the Maverick is AP-04, and spare crush washers are SW-01. You can buy them from several places, but here is the official link:

https://goldplug.com/shop/ap04/

The FilterMags I have started using are OVERKILL for sure. But if you like overkill, these are the ticket. These are very powerful, large magnets, that are shaped to fit your oil filter. You can run a single or two of them if you have space (you do on the Maverick) and are willing to spend the extra money. Have seen filters cut open with these magnets and they clearly work. The nice thing about these vs. the drain plug, is you see a lot more of the oil crossing over the magnets vs. only what might be in range of the drain plug. They are pricey, but they can go with you when you change vehicles or be resold even -- more of an investment. For the Maverick stock sized filter, you would want the SS300 or SS300 pair. If you use the FL1A sized filter, you would want the SS365 or SS365 pair. They can be found elsewhere (cheaper), but linking to the official site for info:

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300-pair/

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-365/
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss365-pair/

That's it for now. Feel free to share thoughts or anything that you might want to add. I realize these aren't for everyone, but some will appreciate it.

I'm interested in going with the Fram ultra synthetic filter. How do i figure out the part number of the larger. The part number i found is the 1/2 quart one. Thanks.

 

[A.Bursell]

I'm interested in going with the Fram ultra synthetic filter. How do i figure out the part number of the larger. The part number i found is the 1/2 quart one. Thanks.

Easiest way is to probably just pick a vehicle that used it from the factory and use that for your searches. Example -- search for an 88 Ford Mustang 5.0 or whatever vehicle is easy to remember (or write down) and that should get you there for whichever brand you want to use.

https://www.fram.com/partFinder/search/index/?type=Any+Type&year=1988&make=0020&model=0476&engine=V8~5.0L~302~&car-type=car-truck&category=Oil_Filter

And that should work wherever you search:

https://www.walmart.com/browse/auto...561%22%5D%2C%22powerSportEnabled%22%3Atrue%7D

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...188/v/a/5475/automotive-car-1988-ford-mustang

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,mustang,5.0l+302cid+v8,1133929,engine,oil+filter,5340

You can see everything from the Motorcraft FL-1A to the Royal Purple 30-8A, which are the correct fit if you want that size filter. Doesn't specifically have to be the one I showed above.

 

[TimL]

Easiest way is to probably just pick a vehicle that used it from the factory and use that for your searches. Example -- search for an 88 Ford Mustang 5.0 or whatever vehicle is easy to remember (or write down) and that should get you there for whichever brand you want to use.

https://www.fram.com/partFinder/search/index/?type=Any+Type&year=1988&make=0020&model=0476&engine=V8~5.0L~302~&car-type=car-truck&category=Oil_Filter

And that should work wherever you search:

https://www.walmart.com/browse/auto-filters/oil-filters/91083_1074765_8697188_1044301?q=&fitmentFieldParams=%7B%22savedVehicle%22%3A%7B%22vehicleType%22%3A%7B%22id%22%3A%22vehicleType%22%2C%22value%22%3A%22Car%2CTruck%2CVan%22%2C%22label%22%3A%22Cars%20%26%20Trucks%22%7D%2C%22vehicleYear%22%3A%7B%22id%22%3A%22vehicleYear%22%2C%22value%22%3A%221988%22%2C%22label%22%3A%221988%22%7D%2C%22vehicleMake%22%3A%7B%22id%22%3A%22vehicleMake%22%2C%22value%22%3A%22Ford%22%2C%22label%22%3A%22Ford%22%7D%2C%22vehicleModel%22%3A%7B%22id%22%3A%22vehicleModel%22%2C%22value%22%3A%225475%22%2C%22label%22%3A%22Mustang%22%7D%2C%22additionalAttributes%22%3A%5B%7B%22id%22%3A%22SubModel%22%2C%22value%22%3A%2239%22%2C%22label%22%3A%22GT%22%7D%2C%7B%22id%22%3A%22EngineBase%22%2C%22value%22%3A%22143%22%2C%22label%22%3A%22V8%205.0L%22%7D%5D%2C%22powerSportEnabled%22%3Atrue%7D%2C%22partTypeIDs%22%3A%5B%225340%22%2C%2211883%22%2C%2250882%22%2C%226200%22%2C%225561%22%5D%2C%22powerSportEnabled%22%3Atrue%7D

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...188/v/a/5475/automotive-car-1988-ford-mustang

You can see everything from the Motorcraft FL-1A to the Royal Purple 30-8A, which are the correct fit if you want that size filter. Doesn't specifically have to be the one I showed above.

Thank you. If I'm reading this correctly the
FRAM Ultra Synthetic XG10575 Motor Oil Filter, 20K mile Filter for GM, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury
Is the one that will fit maverick but be larger capacity.

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