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Dead hybrid after work today

acapaldi

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My current understanding of the issue, is there are two factors at play here. Poor quality factory batteries, and a weak charging system.

The poor quality factory batteries do not take kindly to being drawn down. Doing so causes the plates to sulfate, increasing the internal resistance of the battery and cutting down its already tiny capacity. Keeps the battery from absorbing charge and makes it lose what it does gain faster.

The charging system is very weak. I drive with onboard diagnostics recording BdyCM data to my phone every trip, the DC/DC converter only puts about 1-2A into the battery while the truck is running, and nothing until the key is put into the ignition. For me, I have to drive 30-40 minutes/day to break even. A few hours, and I can get 5-10% charge back.

The two work together, battery doesn't like being low, weak charging system doesn't let it recharge, so it stays there and that ruins batteries. The issue gets progressively worse until the battery completely dies, leading to a no-start condition.

Personally, I've installed an AGM battery and hardwired a battery maintainer into mine. I monitor charge level with my phone, I hook it to the wall and recharge it when it gets below 50%. Fresh battery holds its charge, maintainer supplements the weak charging system.

This has worked, but I'd much prefer something I can just forget about and trust the truck to handle on its own. I don't doubt that this could be easily fixed with a software update. More noise, more visibility for the issue and we might get one. @Ford Motor Company
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Jeff D.

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My current understanding of the issue, is there are two factors at play here. Poor quality factory batteries, and a weak charging system.

The poor quality factory batteries do not take kindly to being drawn down. Doing so causes the plates to sulfate, increasing the internal resistance of the battery and cutting down its already tiny capacity. Keeps the battery from absorbing charge and makes it lose what it does gain faster.

The charging system is very weak. I drive with onboard diagnostics recording BdyCM data to my phone every trip, the DC/DC converter only puts about 1-2A into the battery while the truck is running, and nothing until the key is put into the ignition. For me, I have to drive 30-40 minutes/day to break even. A few hours, and I can get 5-10% charge back.

The two work together, battery doesn't like being low, weak charging system doesn't let it recharge, so it stays there and that ruins batteries. The issue gets progressively worse until the battery completely dies, leading to a no-start condition.

Personally, I've installed an AGM battery and hardwired a battery maintainer into mine. I monitor charge level with my phone, I hook it to the wall and recharge it when it gets below 50%. Fresh battery holds its charge, maintainer supplements the weak charging system.

This has worked, but I'd much prefer something I can just forget about and trust the truck to handle on its own. I don't doubt that this could be easily fixed with a software update. More noise, more visibility for the issue and we might get one. @Ford Motor Company
My thoughts are very similiar to Acapaldi's. I don't have a hybrid, but have read the EB's can have battery issues, too. I plug my truck into a battery tender whenever I park in the garage. I shouldn't have to do that, but I believe it will save me from premature battery failure issues. I got used to doing it with my powersports, so it's not a big change for me.

Hopefully Ford will find a cure and these work arounds won't be needed anymore. :)
 

CurtisB

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Agree with you both. There is a software adjustment to the (BCM I think its called) that I believe was done to my truck when they did the turn signal thingee. I went ahead prior to my visit on the 16th and purchased a Diehard gold T4 470 CCA 585CA 70 minute reserve battery on January 14th. Even with the new battery, it drained within 2 days. The dealer was not happy that I put in my own battery. But hey, it hasn't given me any sleep issues for over 12 days now. What is an AGM battery?
 

Jeff D.

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What is an AGM battery?
Absorbed Glass Mat. It's constructed differently than the usual car battery that has liquid acid. I'm not sure of all the differences, but spillage, venting and mounting orientation are not as much a concern. I believe there's other benefits, too. Not sure of negatives?
 

CurtisB

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Absorded Glass Mat. It's constructed differently than the usual car battery that has liquid acid. I'm not sure of all the differences, but spillage, venting and mounting orientation are not as much a concern. I believe there's other benefits, too. Not sure of negatives?
When I was trying to buy a replacement, everywhere I looked the website kept changing the battery to "fit" my specific Maverick. I looked up AGM batteries and couldn't find one. I would guess buying this type of battery means measuring the area and dimensions of the stock battery and trying to find an AGM battery that will fit in the space? Plus, many of the terminals ( +/-) were either reversed or on the side of the battery. My concern was buying a different battery, then having it either short out my truck or overheat.
 

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Gullzway

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One other thing that might help - turn off all those Ford apps that are doing nothing for you, and just letting Ford track you for their own purposes. I don't care about their automatic downloads; when a new update comes out I'll turn that app back on, download it, turn it back off. Those apps are draining batteries in many vehicles, not just Ford and not just hybrids. There are complaints everywhere about them.
Being able to remote start at work where my fob doesn't reach is quite handy. I also get alerts through the the app if my Perimeter Plus alarm is set off, otherwise I wouldn't know it was going off unless I was nearby

No issues since replacing the Ford battery with a Duralast Gold. The app doesn't allow Ford to track you, that's built into the truck whether you have the app or not.
 

acapaldi

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When I was trying to buy a replacement, everywhere I looked the website kept changing the battery to "fit" my specific Maverick. I looked up AGM batteries and couldn't find one. I would guess buying this type of battery means measuring the area and dimensions of the stock battery and trying to find an AGM battery that will fit in the space? Plus, many of the terminals ( +/-) were either reversed or on the side of the battery. My concern was buying a different battery, then having it either short out my truck or overheat.
This is my setup, Diehard H4-XEV battery, fits with no issues. The batteries out of the 2014+ Chevy Bolt are a perfect fit, right down to the vent tube location. The LN1 AGM battery from AC Delco also fits. Have not caught fire yet, but will post pictures if I do.

Ford Maverick Dead hybrid after work today 20240128_163648


Some hybrids have been delivered with H4 size batteries in them from Ford, so we knew H4s would fit. Why Ford recommends a smaller T4 battery as the replacement... dunno. Cost savings?Some users have taken it further by modifying the compartment to stuff even bigger batteries in here. I didn't go that far.

I don't know if it's actually doing anything that a new regular lead acid wouldn't. I didn't have my monitoring setup before my second Motorcraft battery was already not holding a charge anymore.
 

CurtisB

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Clubs
 
This is my setup, Diehard H4-XEV battery, fits with no issues. The batteries out of the 2014+ Chevy Bolt are a perfect fit, right down to the vent tube location. The LN1 AGM battery from AC Delco also fits. Have not caught fire yet, but will post pictures if I do.

20240128_163648.jpg


Some hybrids have been delivered with H4 size batteries in them from Ford, so we knew H4s would fit. Why Ford recommends a smaller T4 battery as the replacement... dunno. Cost savings?Some users have taken it further by modifying the compartment to stuff even bigger batteries in here. I didn't go that far.

I don't know if it's actually doing anything that a new regular lead acid wouldn't. I didn't have my monitoring setup before my second Motorcraft battery was already not holding a charge anymore.
Thank you for this. This will be the next battery I buy. Hoping I won't have to for at least a few years!! And thank you for the picture. I have the same trickle unit installed as well.
 

BlueSpec1

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...The batteries out of the 2014+ Chevy Bolt are a perfect fit, right down to the vent tube location. The LN1 AGM battery from AC Delco also fits.
My 23 Bolt EUV came with the ACDelco LN1AGM. That's when I noticed how close in size it was to the one Ford put in Maverick and Escape hybrid.
Ford Maverick Dead hybrid after work today Bolt's OEM LN1AGM - 2023-01-27
 

CurtisB

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From all that I have read, it appears that the stock Ford battery just doesn't cut the mustard. It can't recharge due to the type of battery that it is. And, if Ford has already purchased thousands of these batteries, that's hundreds of thousands of dollars wasted.
 
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Gullzway

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From all that I have read, it appears that the stock Ford battery just doesn't cut the mustard. It can't recharge due to the type of battery that it is. And, if Ford has already purchased thousands of these batteries, that's hundreds of thousands of dollars wasted.
Yes. I don't know exactly what's wrong with them. I still have my original that holds the same charge as the Duralast Gold I replaced it with.
I don't get the deep sleep messages with the Duralast Gold.
 

Ozarkbeard

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...I have the same trickle unit installed as well.
According to the user manual, you should use the jump/charge points under the hood - not directly on the battery posts.
 

CurtisB

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According to the user manual, you should use the jump/charge points under the hood - not directly on the battery posts.
Tried doing it there. Trickle charger doesn't work due to the posts under the hood are for jump starting. The trickle charger tells you this and how to correctly hook it up. You just can't connect the negative post off the battery. Directions state to connect only the positive from the battery and the negative to a frame ground. Just doing what the directions on the charger says and I did try it your way. And I had read that in the instructions, which stated "when attempting to jump start". Anyway, I haven't had to use the trickle charger since upgrading my battery.
 

Red Ryder

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Dead Hybrids, 2024 models. These "no-start" problems were written off previously as "first model year" issues, the 2023's being significantly better, and the 2024's near trouble-free.
This isn't a workmanship issue, it is a design issue. The 12V battery may be to blame, but specifications and component selections are part of the design.
 

Ozarkbeard

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Trickle charger doesn't work due to the posts under the hood are for jump starting.
My battery charger/tender works on the jump/charge posts under the hood, on the driver's side. I connect it if I'm not going to be driving the truck for several days or longer.

The BMS should be reset after a charge, too.
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