- Banned
- #91
Ford / Dealer is not going to replace my battery even though the meter shows 11.9 volts. Reason: "Because it starts just fine."
Well ya, because it starts from the high voltage battery.
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Well ya, because it starts from the high voltage battery.
- Banned
- #92
I'm not intending to bash Ford.
Tell me if I'm wrong here.
Is there any case where a 9 month old lead acid battery is normal and healthy showing 11.9 volts after a 1 hour drive? Am I just being too picky?
What I've been told is, they won't replace the 12v battery because I've not been inconvenienced by it. They won't replace it as a "preventative measure".
So hell. Lets not change the oil, for as long as the truck starts. I'm not going to be inconvenienced by 60,000 mile old oil either.
And lets not change the brake pads either, as long as the truck still stops.
And lets not change the tires as long as they still hold air.
It's like they're saying "You'd never have known the battery was at 11.9 volts if you didn't test it yourself. The truck is showing no warning signs. We don't support owners checking on their own vehicle themselves. "
Which is like someone saying "If we don't test for Covid our community can report a 0% infection rate."
Tell me if I'm wrong here.
Is there any case where a 9 month old lead acid battery is normal and healthy showing 11.9 volts after a 1 hour drive? Am I just being too picky?
What I've been told is, they won't replace the 12v battery because I've not been inconvenienced by it. They won't replace it as a "preventative measure".
So hell. Lets not change the oil, for as long as the truck starts. I'm not going to be inconvenienced by 60,000 mile old oil either.
And lets not change the brake pads either, as long as the truck still stops.
And lets not change the tires as long as they still hold air.
It's like they're saying "You'd never have known the battery was at 11.9 volts if you didn't test it yourself. The truck is showing no warning signs. We don't support owners checking on their own vehicle themselves. "
Which is like someone saying "If we don't test for Covid our community can report a 0% infection rate."
I thought the Hybrid starts from the 12V battery?
Isn't that why the No Start condition happens, when the wiring from the Hybrid battery to the 12V battery fails and doesn't keep the 12V battery charged.
I'm getting the Deep Sleep daily now, about to just buy a replacement battery myself.
T4 or 47AGM?
Spent a month with No Success trying to get the CSP wiring harness fixed and gave up. Now they can't even tell me if they have the part in or call me back.
Can't imagine I'd have any luck getting them to replace the battery.
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The 12v furnishes the current to charge a capacitor as needed to put the same voltage on the negative side of the contactors as the SOC of HVB to prevent arcing when it furnishes current to close the contactor so the HVB can supply the 3 phase current for the starter generator to start the ice. Not much current to ready truck to drive needed from the 12volt. Deep sleep happens apparently from posts at or near 10.6v. ??? Probably better to just buy a new flooded lead battery which is not sulphated (most likely your problem).
I had CSP done last week, never had deep sleep or even checked my battery just had affected vin#!!!
Mine is going to deep sleep at 12.2v.
Truck is charging the battery when running @ 14v, but the battery immediately drops to 12.2v when I shut it off. So a T4, 24F, would be better than an AGM Battery?
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- Thread starter
- #96
OP here, You're going to find that only a T4 will fit w/o mods..... It also has the provision for the stock vent.
I'm now at 4.5 months problem free..
Good luck
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- Thread starter
- #98
That's where I purchased my Diehard Gold replacement. Tips are in post #1` here.
I also put the new battery on a charger prior to installation to insure it was 100%, it only took a few minutes. After installation I went through the reset procedure (again) leaving the truck locked over night.
Good luck!
.
I also put the new battery on a charger prior to installation to insure it was 100%, it only took a few minutes. After installation I went through the reset procedure (again) leaving the truck locked over night.
Good luck!
.
A sulphated battery at rest can read around 12v but when any load Is put on it the voltage will rapidly drop as the majority of the sulphur is bonded to the lead and not in solution. It's like pistol grip sprinkler on garden hose with valve open to supply pencil sized stream. Pressure builds up and when squeezed you get 60 psi for a very short time then a trickle! An AGM battery cannot operate well below 15°F whereas flooded will work pretty much to -20°F. A flooded battery is not as susceptible to over charging damage as AGM though it's not good for either. So the last 10% of agm will take longer to trickle charge with most bms. If you have a choice of flooded batteries choose the one that has the better reserve capacity but it will not have a large amount more. A larger battery will just buy a longer period between deep sleeps at least until Ford fixes the problem. With the really low draw overnight the battery never gets to rest which will help increase sulphation. You can put a 5 or better a 10 amp charger on your battery and if it charges rapidly to around 12.6 volts from wherever you start you know sulphates are there refusing to charge. When you see 14+ volts on 12v bus it does not mean the 12v is charging it just means voltage is there available for the BMS to charge battery if it wants to and if battery will accept it. Best to buy something like a noco genius 10amp charger with recovery/de sulphate mode. They are $100-$125, I think.
Well I thought I'd give it one last try at a different dealer to get a battery replacement.
No surprise, no luck!
They tested the battery and told me it was good. When I asked them why it goes to deep sleep mode every day they said we don't know, you can bring it in for a service appointment for further testing.
Crazy that they put a battery in that's not capable of working properly with this truck, and you can't get it replaced under warranty.
@Ford Motor Company
@fordvideoguy
No surprise, no luck!
They tested the battery and told me it was good. When I asked them why it goes to deep sleep mode every day they said we don't know, you can bring it in for a service appointment for further testing.
Crazy that they put a battery in that's not capable of working properly with this truck, and you can't get it replaced under warranty.
@Ford Motor Company
@fordvideoguy
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- Thread starter
- #101
^^
OP here. I've had infant mortality issues with 3-4 Motorcraft batteries in new vehicles. The battery in my Maverick, my Wife's Platinum Explorer, my Platinum Expedition and I think even my Raptor failed within ~1 year and I replaced them. I've had other Motorcraft batteries in new vehicles that have lasted 6+ years. My experience is that if they last a year they are GTG for a long time. I wanted that brand out of my Maverick's equation and is why I installed a DieHard in post #1 here. It resolved my Maverick's issues, it may or may not resolve others....
Good luck...
OP here. I've had infant mortality issues with 3-4 Motorcraft batteries in new vehicles. The battery in my Maverick, my Wife's Platinum Explorer, my Platinum Expedition and I think even my Raptor failed within ~1 year and I replaced them. I've had other Motorcraft batteries in new vehicles that have lasted 6+ years. My experience is that if they last a year they are GTG for a long time. I wanted that brand out of my Maverick's equation and is why I installed a DieHard in post #1 here. It resolved my Maverick's issues, it may or may not resolve others....
Good luck...
- Banned
- #103
I stopped by one of the big chain auto parts stores. Had them do an in-vehicle battery test.
It was 11.9 volts. "Passed" the load test, but with message "charge battery".
We'll thats all folks! The "problem" is while the DC/DC converter is putting out 14.7 v all day long (I once did a 3 hour 50 minute continuous key on) the 12 volt battery refuses to charge beyond where it is now.
Too poor for comfort.
Too strong for a warranty replacement.
It was 11.9 volts. "Passed" the load test, but with message "charge battery".
We'll thats all folks! The "problem" is while the DC/DC converter is putting out 14.7 v all day long (I once did a 3 hour 50 minute continuous key on) the 12 volt battery refuses to charge beyond where it is now.
Too poor for comfort.
Too strong for a warranty replacement.
- Thread starter
- #105
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