[UPDATE] Forscan Mod: Enable 12v Outlets Always Hot or Change Delay Variable

[Pastor_Zatx]

I needed to have my interior 12v outlets remain powered for some low-draw LED emergency lights that I sometimes use when my vehicle is not running. I tried finding a hardware solution via jumping wires in the fuse panel but instead found a Forscan solution. Initially, I was going to disable the timer, but on second thought, I changed the variable to 10 hours. This way, I shouldn't kill my battery if there is something plugged in with a parasitic draw.

I have confirmed that this will override the timer past the default time, but I haven't waited the entire 10 hours yet to see if it cuts off at 36,000 seconds. Interestingly, I was sitting in the vehicle at the 15-minute mark and heard the "click" when the sockets would have turned off, but they remained on.

[ UPDATE: I have confirmed this setting change affects all power outlets (interior 12v and USB, USB-C, and both external pigtails. ]

Picture showing setting within the BCM configuration tool:

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[Nighowl2000]

Made this modification. Hoping this also modifies the power timeout for the bed 12v power.

Note:. You will need the lastest forscan software to modify the values.

 

[TedTX]

Made this modification. Hoping this also modifies the power timeout for the bed 12v power.

Note:. You will need the lastest forscan software to modify the values.

Well? Did it work? Got a 12v frig would like to keep running about 10 hours.,it has a low battery protection built in.
Also related, does the bed 12v turn on with timer based remote start?

 

[MostlySafeBear]

In either powertrain choice, the 12V battery is tiny, but it's even smaller in the hybrid since it doesn't have to start the engine.

Mods like this will kill these batteries dead, because starting batteries are not designed to discharge more than a very small amount, then they get charged back up to full. In that service, they live very long lives, but if you treat a starting battery like a deep cycle and drain it to say 50% (that's the safe minimum generally), you will kill them in months, not years.

 

[TedTX]

Also could you try the police dark mode , want to shut off all lights for the drive in while running AC

 

[Automate]

In either powertrain choice, the 12V battery is tiny, but it's even smaller in the hybrid since it doesn't have to start the engine.

Mods like this will kill these batteries dead, because starting batteries are not designed to discharge more than a very small amount, then they get charged back up to full. In that service, they live very long lives, but if you treat a starting battery like a deep cycle and drain it to say 50% (that's the safe minimum generally), you will kill them in months, not years.

If he's just running small LED lights he will be fine.

 

[MostlySafeBear]

If he's just running small LED lights he will be fine.

I wouldn't assume that, because first we have no idea how large of an LED system he's running, and they range from a single LED to enough to almost replace the sun in a localized area, and also, the 12V batteries are VERY small. Again, cycling them beyond a very shallow discharge will kill them in months instead of years.

 

[TedTX]

In either powertrain choice, the 12V battery is tiny, but it's even smaller in the hybrid since it doesn't have to start the engine.

Mods like this will kill these batteries dead, because starting batteries are not designed to discharge more than a very small amount, then they get charged back up to full. In that service, they live very long lives, but if you treat a starting battery like a deep cycle and drain it to say 50% (that's the safe minimum generally), you will kill them in months, not years.

True, but rather have ability to keep $70 worth of camping food safe to eat about 4 weekends a year without hassle. The truck itself dropped that weak battery to 4v already on its own!

 

[MostlySafeBear]

True, but rather have ability to keep $70 worth of camping food safe to eat about 4 weekends a year without hassle.

It would be cheaper to provide a cheap Jackery or similar unit to run a small cooler than it would be to replace the starting battery, possibly more than once. There's also the fun of being stranded from a dead battery. Jump batteries are a thing, but they're not guaranteed.

 

[Automate]

I wouldn't assume that, because first we have no idea how large of an LED system he's running, and they range from a single LED to enough to almost replace the sun in a localized area, and also, the 12V batteries are VERY small. Again, cycling them beyond a very shallow discharge will kill them in months instead of years.

I didn't assume that:

I needed to have my interior 12v outlets remain powered for some low-draw LED emergency lights that I sometimes use when my vehicle is not running.

 

[MostlySafeBear]

I didn't assume that:

That's still an assumption because as I said, the size/draw of the LED system was unspecified, and even if it's 'only' as powerful as a standard 2.5 watt USB connection, that's still enough to kill the tiny 12V battery in these things, depending on runtime.

 

[Automate]

That's still an assumption because as I said, the size/draw of the LED system was unspecified.

Give it up. Anyone smart enough to use FORScan is smart enough to look up the specs on the LEDs they are using.

 

[TedTX]

Not sure about cheaper then a replacement battery( which I would get a motorcycle lithium for proper deep cycle ) thinking one less thing to buy/ bring.

 

[Nighowl2000]

Well? Did it work? Got a 12v frig would like to keep running about 10 hours.,it has a low battery protection built in.
Also related, does the bed 12v turn on with timer based remote start?

Nope... Went out 2 hrs later and tried turning on my truck bed LEDs that's attached to the 12v source. Didn't work.

 

[MostlySafeBear]

Give it up. Anyone smart enough to use FORScan is smart enough to look up the specs on the LEDs they are using.

Thankfully I'm not bound to follow anything you say, so I'll keep adding my two cents here on this public forum.

It's nice to think that being smart in one area would means that people are also smart in other areas, but sadly that is not always the case. I know people with college degrees (one is even a PhD) that can't troubleshoot basic computer issues worth a damn, as simple as it is.

To me, basic math and calculating electrical loads and comparing against available battery capacity is easily done in my head, but that's not the same for everyone.

The size of the connected load is a variable, and beyond a tiny draw, it will cook these tiny starting batteries.

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