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999

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This was Mullinax Ford, Vero Beach Florida.
Just to confirm, This happened at granger? Or you talking about another dealer?
 

Eagle11

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Still I wouldent own a toyota. I remember how badly those things rusted out in the 70s thru the 90s.
The same can be said about GM cars of the late 60's and 70's...
 

999

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Lol, ok. How many Chevy Luminas do you see? Or Toyota Previas for that matter?

Nobody spends money keeping 15-20 year minivans going in this country. Resale value is low, so it's cheaper to replace then to repair them when they get that old.


I would also bet on a Chevy. Seen many with a lot of miles and no issues.

how many ford windstars do you see on the road? Not many anymore.

All I’m saying is that you can buy a used car that will probably outlast the mav
 

Barracuda340

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Maverick frames will never rust. 100% guarantee.
Spray inside the framerails, rockers and lower doors with rustproofing material called cavity wax before you run it thru the first hard winter. I use CorBan35 by Zip chem, along with long applicator straws. It works great.
 
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Espeer

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Spray inside the framerails, rockers and lower doors with rustproofing material called cavity wax before you run it thru the first hard winter. I use CorBan35 by Zip chem, along with long applicator straws. It works great.
Woosh
 

Barracuda340

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Espeer What's Woosh ? It your thinking go up in flames, then your obviously not familiar with the product CorBan 35 then. This is a rust inhibiting film that is sprayed inside aircraft fuselages, wings and any structural area subject to corrosion. It's a great product. I use it in automotive applications. It provides a good barrier film against water , road salt. and general moisture. None of my vehicles with it have ever gone up in flames. The interior plastics are more flammable than this stuff after it dries.
 

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Braderick said the Maverick frame rails would 100% not ever rust, jokingly referring to the fact that it's a unibody with no frame. You responded to that with a post about spraying rustrpoofing "inside the frame rails".

I figured the "woosh" meant Braderick's post went right over your head...

(As I live in northern NY --heavy road salt application territory-- I'll likely be taking your advice on a rust preventative product.)
 

Barracuda340

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Braderick said the Maverick frame rails would 100% not ever rust, jokingly referring to the fact that it's a unibody with no frame. You responded to that with a post about spraying rustrpoofing "inside the frame rails".

I figured the "woosh" meant Braderick's post went right over your head...

(As I live in northern NY --heavy road salt application territory-- I'll likely be taking your advice on a rust preventative product.)
Braderick ,
Anybody who thinks unibody vehicles do NOT have framerails obviously doesnt know anything about unibody construction. Unibody means Unitized Body and frame construction. This means the frame is unitized with the body or made as 1 piece.

There most certainly are framerails under a unibody vehicle They are welded right to the floorpans, and tie into the boxed rocker panels. The boxed rocker panels under the doors ARE the framerails. The suspension, the engine cradle or K frame ties into the front framerails that are welded to the inner fenderwell and strut towers. The front and rear bumper under structure bolt directly to the ends of these "framerails"

Heres pix of an older unibody vehicle 1969 barracuda 340 formula S coupe. It may be 50 plus years old, but the concept has changed very little. This one required a full floorpan and wheel house reskin which I did last winter. It has subframe connectors that were welded in from its days as a drag race car in the 1980s. The framerails are welded to the rocker panels below the doors. Note the open u shaped framerails. This is because the flanges get welded to the floor pans.

First 3 pix are after I removed the rotted and butchered sheetmetal and before repairs, sandblasting, and epoxy primer inside and out. Trunk floor pic its drilled for rosette welds, and only temp pinned with self tapping screws to hold it prior to welding. Once welded, those screws get removed and those holes get welded up.

Everything gets a thick coat of Kirker Enduroprime 2 part epoxy primer before assembly. Once all the welding is done, CorBan goes inside the "framerails, and when the shell is on the body rotisserie, the body underside gets taped off and sprayed with lizard skin.

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Barracuda340

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Braderick said the Maverick frame rails would 100% not ever rust, jokingly referring to the fact that it's a unibody with no frame. You responded to that with a post about spraying rustrpoofing "inside the frame rails".

I figured the "woosh" meant Braderick's post went right over your head...

(As I live in northern NY --heavy road salt application territory-- I'll likely be taking your advice on a rust preventative product.)
Desmobob, if you can pop the door panels, any covers on the tailgate, spray it inside there too. Make sure to pay attention to anywhere theres pinch welds and overlapped panels. Anywhere water would get trapped and sit is where it will rust out. Maverick uses an aluminum hood. Drop any sound deadener panel it may have and spray up inside the perimeter of the hood. Steel may rust, aluminum corrodes. It just turns to powder. CorBan 35 isnt cheap, but it is very effective. Get the long applicator straws to get it into crevices, and tight areas.
 
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desmobob

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So, what noise describes when you think something went over someone else's head and it turns out it went over mine, too? Woo-whoosh?
 

desmobob

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Desmobob, if you can pop the door panels, any covers on the tailgate, spray it inside there too. Make sure to pay attention to anywhere theres pinch welds and overlapped panels. Anywhere water would get trapped and sit is where it will rust out. Maverick uses an aluminum hood. Drop any sound deadener panel it may have and spray up inside the perimeter of the hood. Steel may rust, aluminum corrodes. It just turns to powder. CorBan 35 isnt cheap, but it is very effective. Get the long applicator straws to get it into crevices, and tight areas.
Thanks. I watched a great YouTube video the other day where a guy really did an incredible job treating his new Maverick with rust preventative... the most thorough job imaginable. It was one of the best instructional videos I've seen.

After seeing photos here on the forum showing how water and road spray can get inside some areas of the Maverick, I'll be trying to do a good job protecting mine. Rust is the killer of vehicles for me. I only have 76K miles on my 2009 Forester but the body is starting to rust through. I had an '88 Chevy 1500 that had to be retired when the frame buckled in the middle when we put it on the lift to do an oil change... rust had eaten through the frame on the 3/4 ton pickup with only 85K miles on it.

I like clear roads in the winter but I sure hate the effects of road salt on my vehicles!!!
 

Barracuda340

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So, what noise describes when you think something went over someone else's head and it turns out it went over mine, too? Woo-whoosh?
I guess. I am an aircraft sheetmetal structures crewchief / instructor. Work heavy check line on commercial airliners. The auto sheetmetal is a hobby. I teach aircraft sheetmetal repair to the young guys getting into aviation. A lot of simple humor goes right over my head, yet I read the old Gary Larsen far side comic strips and laugh my ass off. Most people dont get his humor. Go figure
 

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Here's the video I mentioned... he does an impressive job!
 

Barracuda340

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Desmobob my 1994 Silverado I bought new as a special order. 160,000 miles original paint not one rust hole in it. Also what helps too is getting a power washer and power wash the shit out of the vehicles underside and wheel openings, and paying attention to areas with mouldings and trim to thoroughly wash away all the road salt after winter every winter.

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