No dome light (if less than 7 days of not being started) = time for me to put noco g5 onto under hood jump posts (can take 3 or more days continuous if 12v less than 11.7 volts, longer if have to interrupt charging & optimization to drive). I normally unlock all with double fob unlock push.
Huh? No comprende.
Run your headlamps every drive.
Thanks
Does having headlights on automatic count?
Maybe if you mostly drive at night, but remember always on will run them 100% of time. ALSO there is the possibility that the execution of the software might not execute the exact same code in the same order which could set up the desired charging. The physical setting of the switch to on could possibly result in a set bit that upped voltage to handle high beam on demand when driver asks. With automatic on perhaps that bit is set by the routine just before high beams are switched on and unset just after high beams are switched off. Who friggin knows. Most of programmers won't even know.
On the 2022 XLT there no brightness change when on "High beams" so I assume no voltage change. Only the aim changes. There seems to be a shutter like an eyelid that just changes where the beam is pointed.
Mavster Mechanic explained it in #166. System is obviously looking at particular current draw sources, Not actual amperage drawn. Let's say you pull 5 amp fromDavid I understand exactly what you've explained.
One of the confusing things for me is on my 2023 XLT my low beam headlights will operate as DRL's.
But yet will not trigger charging.
Manually rotating the headlight switch to on, triggers charging.
The same damn lights are on.
thats just nuts that it runs the headlamps at full power, shortening their life. Sheesh.
Yep, designed by committee.
Mavster Mechanic explained it in #172 & other posts. It's apparently a binary selection criteria, not an analog amp draw value that triggers the charging he describes. In other words it's not looking to see if > xx.x amps are being drawn on the 12V bus (think analog), but where (digital) the source draw is derived. System is obviously looking at "where" or "what" source is causing a current draw, like current draw thru a particular 12v fuse, not an actual amperage drawn. Or, it could also be looking at certain switch positions being On/Off that sets trigger to charge at a higher voltage. Example: a .05 amp draw from source "A" will trigger, but 10x larger amp draw from source "B" will NOT trigger the higher charge, because the computer isn't looking at source "B". Hypothetically if DRL use full power low beam headlights (same current) the computer might only be looking at light switch position, Low beam, to trigger, and not the DRL position. Hope this makes sense.
Yep, designed by committee.
I believe the 25/26MY are different. My 25 Hybrid always shows 14.x while driving. Never seen it vary. I have 12k miles, 1 yr old. In the 1st couple months it sat in garage without being driven for days, and would go to sleep as designed to preserve AGM battery. Never a Deep sleep, just no dome lights when opening door. I used Forscan to change the default 80% SOC to 90%. Never has the 14.x V changed while driving, still the same. Resting battery voltage after a few days w/o driving is 12.3 to 12.7. Knock on wood, my 25MY seems fine. Whethert he 90% SOC change mattered IDK? I do believe there are charging algorithm differences from 22-24 vs 25 & perhaps 26?OK could not find my cigarette lighter meter thingie so I dug out the OBD2 bluetooth adapter and used an old phone with Torque. 2026 Lariat Hybrid AWD.
Connected the OBD2 and did some testing with the ECU indicated 12v charge. With surface charge drained it shows 12.3V (before start) and while running and driving it showed a consistent 14.9V, headlights not on (though set to Auto).
Maybe the 2026 is programmed differently?
Do you have a way of checking the battery SOC? Mine will charge at 14.4V until the SOC reaches 85% then it drops to 12.9V (Headlights Off). My normal, daily driving is not long enough to get the battery to 85% so my voltage always shows 14.4V until I take an out-of-town trip.
Sounds like a good plan to do the headlight suggestion from Mavster Mechanic. Kudos to him, great work. Yes, I can & do check 12V battery SOC. While driving it's between roughly 85% to 92%, And the Voltage as I said earlier remains at a steady 14.x V. Also as a talking point, most of my 12k miles on the ODO are road trip miles, highway speed. Perhaps not a factor, but our Mavs can have different behavior from MY to MY, and perhaps same MY. Keeps us guessing.
Vast majority of pre-25MY are going to show the same 14.x while driving too - because the SLA is below 80% Ford SOC and it's never 85% to drop to 12.8, unless battery was just recharged or new one.
Forscan Ez BCM 12V power outlet timeout setting can be changed from 4500seconds (75 minutes) default, to a shorter or longer interval. I once changed it to 14,400 seconds (4 hours), but seemed to cause a problem, so changed it back to 4,500 seconds. I also shortened it once to 5 minutes to prove it could, and it does. Now wondering if changing from 75 minutes to perhaps half that number, or something shorter than 75 minutes, would impact anything?
You need to stop basing things on voltage.
