DIY HOW TO: Install adaptive cruise control in Maverick Hybrid XLT with Luxury package

[surfstar]

Sorry but if you time is worth anything you should ha bought a Lariat. ACC is exactly why I went that route

Say I spent about 20 hours for dealing with the ACC install - a Lariat was about $10,000 more than my XL at the time (plus I did not want fake leather seats) - that's $500 an hour. A bit more than I get paid at work.
I also could have easily afforded a Lariat, I just didn't think it was a good deal and ACC was an option I really wanted. I found this thread and got what I wanted for under $700 and my own labor.

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[Maverick_Dave]

...I applied the following changes with ForScan. Signs related to TSR might have been already modified because I enabled that previously.

This configuration works on my 25. I have not tried any other at this time.
Sometimes at low speed when it is slowing down I notice the traction light flicker on the cluster.

 

[rusty_shackleford]

This configuration works on my 25. I have not tried any other at this time.
Sometimes at low speed when it is slowing down I notice the traction light flicker on the cluster.

I wonder what I messed up, the lane centering icon is below your truck on the pic, the icon is in the bed on mine lol.

 

[Maverick_Dave]

I wonder what I messed up, the lane centering icon is below your truck on the pic, the icon is in the bed on mine lol.

The setting I'm using I think is Lane Centering. It makes almost constant adjustments to keep the truck centered in the lane, to be honest its kinda annoying.

 

[smav]

I just bought a brand new 2025 xlt w/luxury package AWD hybrid. I have started reading this thread from the beginning and plan on working all the way through it and currently at page 11.
It appears this should be able to be done on the 2025 models as seen in some of the pictures of the last few pages so that question was answered for me.
The other questiosn I have for the group is, do you need the front sensing radar? I still assume so but in the link below is a youtube video of a salesman in Kansas who is talking about this very topic and notes that the Bronco, built in the very same plant as the maverick, has the ACC stanard on the lower models and availabe on all but does not have any front sensing system. You can see that statment if you cut in to it just before the 5:00 mark.
One other question is, are the grills the same now between the lariat and the XLT or do you still need swap it out or modify it? It appears they may have gone with one and the same for all and the sesor is loacated down below the grill in the air dam possibly?



My appologies if all of these questions are answered in this thread but I am not sure how long it will take to get to the end of it so I am hoping for a little spoiler info here to make sure I don't find out it isn't possible........thanks

 

[BlueSpec1]

I just bought a brand new 2025 xlt w/luxury package AWD hybrid. I have started reading this thread from the beginning and plan on working all the way through it and currently at page 11.
It appears this should be able to be done on the 2025 models as seen in some of the pictures of the last few pages so that question was answered for me.
The other questiosn I have for the group is, do you need the front sensing radar?

Yes for ACC the truck must have the CCM radar at the front.

 

[rusty_shackleford]

I just bought a brand new 2025 xlt w/luxury package AWD hybrid. I have started reading this thread from the beginning and plan on working all the way through it and currently at page 11.
It appears this should be able to be done on the 2025 models as seen in some of the pictures of the last few pages so that question was answered for me.
The other questiosn I have for the group is, do you need the front sensing radar? I still assume so but in the link below is a youtube video of a salesman in Kansas who is talking about this very topic and notes that the Bronco, built in the very same plant as the maverick, has the ACC stanard on the lower models and availabe on all but does not have any front sensing system. You can see that statment if you cut in to it just before the 5:00 mark.
One other question is, are the grills the same now between the lariat and the XLT or do you still need swap it out or modify it? It appears they may have gone with one and the same for all and the sesor is loacated down below the grill in the air dam possibly?



My appologies if all of these questions are answered in this thread but I am not sure how long it will take to get to the end of it so I am hoping for a little spoiler info here to make sure I don't find out it isn't possible........thanks

Bruh you got here just in time, ACC has been working on the 2025 for 2 days lol. The grill is the same, the black cover just pops into the xl/xlt grill. you need to pull the whole bumper cover and replace/cut the air deflector to accommodate the sensor bracket and sensor, and most likely need to pull wires as the factory harness is unlikely to be pre-populated. Don't get a sensor from anything but a 2025 model.

 

[rusty_shackleford]

@Maverick_Dave what config did you try on SCCM 724-02-01 xxXX Xxxx xxxx? what im seeing is its a 3 nibble config, theres a mistake in the master spreadsheet

from xl to lariat:

XL:     xx5D 2xxx xxxx
Lariat: xx95 2xxx xxxx

BY THE WAY, I installed the steering wheel switch and confirmed this change worked correctly with the follow distance button, volume controls, cruise set, cancel, and resume. I don't know what the lane centering button does, it appears to not do much.

also on the APIM I changed another nibble to enable the correct menus.

 

[JCMavGuy]

@rusty_shackleford I've got parts on the way And thanks for blazing this trail for our 25s! Since you've already run the wires, from the OP on page 1

"We are running a total of four wires to the CCM. Two of the wires are power and ground. These will terminate in the fuse block located beneath the glove box. The other two wires are CAN bus high and low, by which the CCM sends radar data back to the IPMA. These two wires run directly from the CCM through the firewall, up the passenger side A-pillar, across the headliner, and into the IPMA."

Since our IPMA is now behind the back seats (rather than above the rear view mirror), I am assuming this routing process differs. Can you share a little bit about how you ran yours?

 

[rusty_shackleford]

@rusty_shackleford I've got parts on the way And thanks for blazing this trail for our 25s! Since you've already run the wires, from the OP on page 1

"We are running a total of four wires to the CCM. Two of the wires are power and ground. These will terminate in the fuse block located beneath the glove box. The other two wires are CAN bus high and low, by which the CCM sends radar data back to the IPMA. These two wires run directly from the CCM through the firewall, up the passenger side A-pillar, across the headliner, and into the IPMA."

Since our IPMA is now behind the back seats (rather than above the rear view mirror), I am assuming this routing process differs. Can you share a little bit about how you ran yours?

What I did was a little funky. I used leftovers from my audio upgrades. Wire and split loom. I had some spare cat5 cable from a project where I was pulling wires and adding receptacles in my home. Twisted pair is good for canbus, but automotive wiring should be stranded not solid so I may change this later. I had enough cat5 to get to the area near the drivers firewall. I ran this along the driver side under the door sills.

I had just enough length of wire and loom leftover in 4 colors to route it behind the CCM bracket, under the air deflector, up the drivers side, behind the headlight, then up and around the strut mount, and down to the hole in the firewall where there’s a blank grommet.

I grounded in the engine area, there’s a bunch of grounds you can see on the frame behind the headlights I just added mine in.

I used lever nuts at the IPMA and firewall connection, I had already installed the ford spec pins which come pre crimped on wires at the IPMA, I used two conductors for 12v+ thru the cat5 and one pair for canbus.

I twisted my canbus wires before pushing them into split loom for the exterior portion, and used solder and adhesive backed heat shrink at the CCM pigtail connection. See the zip ties on the black cable in the pics.

 

[smav]

One other quesiton, would it be possible and/or easier to find a switched fuse to tap off of in the fuse box inside the engine compartment verus the interior glove compartment box?
Have any of you done this while under warranty and if so, does it void the warranty on everything or anything?
Thanks again for the advice and this is quite an impressive thread on this topic as well as conrtibuters. My hat is off to the OP as well as all the follow up contributers.

 

[rusty_shackleford]

One other quesiton, would it be possible and/or easier to find a switched fuse to tap off of in the fuse box inside the engine compartment verus the interior glove compartment box?
Have any of you done this while under warranty and if so, does it void the warranty on everything or anything?
Thanks again for the advice and this is quite an impressive thread on this topic as well as conrtibuters. My hat is off to the OP as well as all the follow up contributers.

For the warranty, that's a grey area. Worst case, it voids the warranty on the IPMA, the cameras and parking sensors, etc, everything the IPMA controls. If you bork something else using forscan though, idk how that works.

For the 2025 retrofit, forget about the fuse block. Just get 12v and ground from the same plug on the IPMA the CCM communication goes thru, the empty pinout is there already just need to add the wires. You already need to run two communication wires, might as well make it four. The IPMA is already fused appropriately and likely controls when to wake up the CCM

 

[Maverick_Dave]

@Maverick_Dave what config did you try on SCCM 724-02-01 xxXX Xxxx xxxx? what im seeing is its a 3 nibble config, theres a mistake in the master spreadsheet

from xl to lariat:

XL:     xx5D 2xxx xxxx
Lariat: xx95 2xxx xxxx

I just tried this, and it doesn't work on mine. I get a code for LH switch pack failure, and none of the LH switches work.
Strange enough that is the same config that I chose a while back, so it should have been the correct one.

 

[inline_five]

ITS WORKING

I finally got around to trying this on my 2025 XLT without BLIS, and I am pleasantly surprised that it works!

This is crazy, you guys are the first to do this on 2025+.

I can't exactly follow what you've done, try to do a good writeup with parts maybe in a new thread for 2025+ MY's especially for that pin connector.

The steering wheel comes out easy, there are various videos on Youtube about replacing the switches as well. Just remember to disconnect the negative battery lead so you don't blow a bag.

CONGRATS!

Also, if you want to try hands off without the nag (but pay attention), get one of these and attach to the 4 o'clock position on the wheel.

For Tesla Model 3/Y/S Steering Wheel Booster Weight Autopilot Counterweight Ring | eBay

 

[rusty_shackleford]

This is crazy, you guys are the first to do this on 2025+.

I can't exactly follow what you've done, try to do a good writeup with parts maybe in a new thread for 2025+ MY's especially for that pin connector.

The steering wheel comes out easy, there are various videos on Youtube about replacing the switches as well. Just remember to disconnect the negative battery lead so you don't blow a bag.

CONGRATS!

Also, if you want to try hands off without the nag (but pay attention), get one of these and attach to the 4 o'clock position on the wheel.

For Tesla Model 3/Y/S Steering Wheel Booster Weight Autopilot Counterweight Ring | eBay

Only took until I started noticing salvage from wrecked lariats on eBay. Their misfortune was our golden ticket. Pour one out for the homies later.

most of the parts were the same as the 2024, I’ll try to put together a post soon if someone doesn’t beat me to it. There’s a lot more kinks to work out, such as the steering wheel switches for the XLT. It’s working fine on my truck, but not on others.

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