Tips for Changing Transmission Fluid

[Tscottok]

Hey MTC,

I just changed the transmission fluid on my 22 EB 4K and wanted to add some pro-tips I learned from reading/watching other videos. I did this at ~13k miles with my PTU/RDU oil swap (please do this! write up here) just in case it was needed. I used the OEM Motorcraft ULV I got from the dealership and it wasn't too expensive (~$60 total). You'll need 5 quarts, but only use ~4.25. My fluid looked pretty good and I'll likely only change this every 20-40k miles depending on how hard I use the truck.

First, I'd watch this video to go over all the steps. It's done on a very similar Ford escape that has the same/similar transmission as the maverick. However, there are some key things you'll do differently. You'll need mostly the same tools as the video, but it's a different socket for the tires (mine are 21 mm), the socket for the drain plug was not 7/16, and I only need a 10" extension to remove the leveling plug.

Steps: bulleted items are the tweaks to the above video

1. Jack up the car and secure it with jack stands or similar
2. Remove the skip plates/undercarriage cover with a T20 torx bit
3. Remove the bolt and drain the transmission fluid.
   
   • My plug was larger than the 7/16 in the video, but still part of a standard ratchet set. (sorry, forgot to write down the size)
     
4. Optional- Lower/level the car the get as much of the fluid out as possible.
   
   • I also flushed some fresh fluid through the system since you don't need the 5 full quarts
     
5. Re-install the drain plug so it's snug. Don't crank it down or over tighten (sorry, don't know the torque specs).
   
   • Do NOT re-install the skip plates/undercarriage cover until the very very end
     
6. Find the vent plug on top of the engine and remove the cap
7. Fill with ~4.25 quarts of fluid
   
   • This is where things were a bit tricky for me. The thick fluid really wants to pour out of the rubber vent tube since there isn't a way to let the back pressure/air out while filling through the funnel. You can easily dump transmission fluid on your engine without knowing (trust me)
   • I recommend pushing your funnel a bit into the rubber "volcano" until there is a slight seal (not too hard), and/or running the engine during this process. There will still be some bubbles from the transmission that can splash fluid out of the funnel, but that's ultimately a good sign that it's getting into the transmission and not seeping out onto the engine. Just pour slowly and you'll be fine. Also, make sure you don't start the car when the transmission is completely dry.
     
8. Re-install the vent cap, start the truck, and cycle through your gears. 5-10 seconds on each (P, R, N, D) at least 2 times to move the fluid around. You'll also need to get the new fluid up to operating temp, 180-200 F. You can let it idle or drive slowly around the block.
9. On a level/flat surface measure the ground clearance to a spot behind the front driver tire. This is where you'll lower the car to later to make sure it's the same height as operating.
10. Crack the bolts on the driver side front tire, jack up the car, and take off the front driver side wheel. You may be able to skip this set and reach around the turned tire, but removing it makes the drain process easier.
    
    • My car needed a 21mm socket for the tires and yours may be different depending on your trim/rim package. You can always use the supplied tire iron with your jack.
      
11. Lower the car back to the operating height you measured on step 9 to make sure it's level with where it sits normally.
12. Find the leveling plug on the transmission near the base of the control arm and remove it with the 10mm Allen socket. Any excess fluid in the transmission will immediately start coming out.
    
    • I only need a 10" extender for this part as I could reach the plug behind the suspension.
    • This is where it's important to leave the skip plates/undercarriage cover off. Fluid will pour onto them, spill in all directions, and coat everything. It sucks to have to jack up the car again, but I paid the price by putting them back on early.
      
13. Start the truck and run it until only about a dribble of fluid comes out. Insert the plug and tighten to pretty snug, but not too tight (sorry, don't know the torque specs). The plug has a rubber seal so it doesn't need to be extremely tight.
14. Lift the truck back up, install the skip plates/undercarriage cover, and put the tire back on with the lug nuts just snug. Finally, Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts to 50 ft-lb (I believe).

Done! Let me know if you have any other suggestions, and thanks for reading.

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[Brianx]

i'll have this done at the dealer, hopefully they know all these pitfalls and get the right amount in.

 

[Tim d]

Hey MTC,

I just changed the transmission fluid on my 22 EB 4K and wanted to add some pro-tips I learned from reading/watching other videos. I did this at ~13k miles with my PTU/RDU oil swap (please do this! write up here) just in case it was needed. I used the OEM Motorcraft ULV I got from the dealership and it wasn't too expensive (~$60 total). You'll need 5 quarts, but only use ~4.25. My fluid looked pretty good and I'll likely only change this every 20-40k miles depending on how hard I use the truck.

First, I'd watch this video to go over all the steps. It's done on a very similar Ford escape that has the same/similar transmission as the maverick. However, there are some key things you'll do differently. You'll need mostly the same tools as the video, but it's a different socket for the tires (mine are 21 mm), the socket for the drain plug was not 7/16, and I only need a 10" extension to remove the leveling plug.

Steps: bulleted items are the tweaks to the above video

1. Jack up the car and secure it with jack stands or similar
2. Remove the skip plates/undercarriage cover with a T20 torx bit
3. Remove the bolt and drain the transmission fluid.
   • My plug was larger than the 7/16 in the video, but still part of a standard ratchet set. (sorry, forgot to write down the size)
4. Optional- Lower/level the car the get as much of the fluid out as possible.
   • I also flushed some fresh fluid through the system since you don't need the 5 full quarts
5. Re-install the drain plug so it's snug. Don't crank it down or over tighten (sorry, don't know the torque specs).
   • Do NOT re-install the skip plates/undercarriage cover until the very very end
6. Find the vent plug on top of the engine and remove the cap
7. Fill with ~4.25 quarts of fluid
   • This is where things were a bit tricky for me. The thick fluid really wants to pour out of the rubber vent tube since there isn't a way to let the back pressure/air out while filling through the funnel. You can easily dump transmission fluid on your engine without knowing (trust me)
   • I recommend pushing your funnel a bit into the rubber "volcano" until there is a slight seal (not too hard), and/or running the engine during this process. There will still be some bubbles from the transmission that can splash fluid out of the funnel, but that's ultimately a good sign that it's getting into the transmission and not seeping out onto the engine. Just pour slowly and you'll be fine. Also, make sure you don't start the car when the transmission is completely dry.
8. Re-install the vent cap, start the truck, and cycle through your gears. 5-10 seconds on each (P, R, N, D) at least 2 times to move the fluid around. You'll also need to get the new fluid up to operating temp, 180-200 F. You can let it idle or drive slowly around the block.
9. On a level/flat surface measure the ground clearance to a spot behind the front driver tire. This is where you'll lower the car to later to make sure it's the same height as operating.
10. Crack the bolts on the driver side front tire, jack up the car, and take off the front driver side wheel. You may be able to skip this set and reach around the turned tire, but removing it makes the drain process easier.
    • My car needed a 21mm socket for the tires and yours may be different depending on your trim/rim package. You can always use the supplied tire iron with your jack.
11. Lower the car back to the operating height you measured on step 9 to make sure it's level with where it sits normally.
12. Find the leveling plug on the transmission near the base of the control arm and remove it with the 10mm Allen socket. Any excess fluid in the transmission will immediately start coming out.
    • I only need a 10" extender for this part as I could reach the plug behind the suspension.
    • This is where it's important to leave the skip plates/undercarriage cover off. Fluid will pour onto them, spill in all directions, and coat everything. It sucks to have to jack up the car again, but I paid the price by putting them back on early.
13. Start the truck and run it until only about a dribble of fluid comes out. Insert the plug and tighten to pretty snug, but not too tight (sorry, don't know the torque specs). The plug has a rubber seal so it doesn't need to be extremely tight.
14. Lift the truck back up, install the skip plates/undercarriage cover, and put the tire back on with the lug nuts just snug. Finally, Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts to 50 ft-lb (I believe).

Done! Let me know if you have any other suggestions, and thanks for reading.

To bad the maverick doesn't come with lifetime tranny fluid like my two 14 year old dodges.

 

[FamousAmos]

Hey MTC,

I just changed the transmission fluid on my 22 EB 4K and wanted to add some pro-tips I learned from reading/watching other videos. I did this at ~13k miles with my PTU/RDU oil swap (please do this! write up here) just in case it was needed. I used the OEM Motorcraft ULV I got from the dealership and it wasn't too expensive (~$60 total). You'll need 5 quarts, but only use ~4.25. My fluid looked pretty good and I'll likely only change this every 20-40k miles depending on how hard I use the truck.

First, I'd watch this video to go over all the steps. It's done on a very similar Ford escape that has the same/similar transmission as the maverick. However, there are some key things you'll do differently. You'll need mostly the same tools as the video, but it's a different socket for the tires (mine are 21 mm), the socket for the drain plug was not 7/16, and I only need a 10" extension to remove the leveling plug.

Steps: bulleted items are the tweaks to the above video

1. Jack up the car and secure it with jack stands or similar
2. Remove the skip plates/undercarriage cover with a T20 torx bit
3. Remove the bolt and drain the transmission fluid.
   • My plug was larger than the 7/16 in the video, but still part of a standard ratchet set. (sorry, forgot to write down the size)
4. Optional- Lower/level the car the get as much of the fluid out as possible.
   • I also flushed some fresh fluid through the system since you don't need the 5 full quarts
5. Re-install the drain plug so it's snug. Don't crank it down or over tighten (sorry, don't know the torque specs).
   • Do NOT re-install the skip plates/undercarriage cover until the very very end
6. Find the vent plug on top of the engine and remove the cap
7. Fill with ~4.25 quarts of fluid
   • This is where things were a bit tricky for me. The thick fluid really wants to pour out of the rubber vent tube since there isn't a way to let the back pressure/air out while filling through the funnel. You can easily dump transmission fluid on your engine without knowing (trust me)
   • I recommend pushing your funnel a bit into the rubber "volcano" until there is a slight seal (not too hard), and/or running the engine during this process. There will still be some bubbles from the transmission that can splash fluid out of the funnel, but that's ultimately a good sign that it's getting into the transmission and not seeping out onto the engine. Just pour slowly and you'll be fine. Also, make sure you don't start the car when the transmission is completely dry.
8. Re-install the vent cap, start the truck, and cycle through your gears. 5-10 seconds on each (P, R, N, D) at least 2 times to move the fluid around. You'll also need to get the new fluid up to operating temp, 180-200 F. You can let it idle or drive slowly around the block.
9. On a level/flat surface measure the ground clearance to a spot behind the front driver tire. This is where you'll lower the car to later to make sure it's the same height as operating.
10. Crack the bolts on the driver side front tire, jack up the car, and take off the front driver side wheel. You may be able to skip this set and reach around the turned tire, but removing it makes the drain process easier.
    • My car needed a 21mm socket for the tires and yours may be different depending on your trim/rim package. You can always use the supplied tire iron with your jack.
11. Lower the car back to the operating height you measured on step 9 to make sure it's level with where it sits normally.
12. Find the leveling plug on the transmission near the base of the control arm and remove it with the 10mm Allen socket. Any excess fluid in the transmission will immediately start coming out.
    • I only need a 10" extender for this part as I could reach the plug behind the suspension.
    • This is where it's important to leave the skip plates/undercarriage cover off. Fluid will pour onto them, spill in all directions, and coat everything. It sucks to have to jack up the car again, but I paid the price by putting them back on early.
13. Start the truck and run it until only about a dribble of fluid comes out. Insert the plug and tighten to pretty snug, but not too tight (sorry, don't know the torque specs). The plug has a rubber seal so it doesn't need to be extremely tight.
14. Lift the truck back up, install the skip plates/undercarriage cover, and put the tire back on with the lug nuts just snug. Finally, Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts to 50 ft-lb (I believe).

Done! Let me know if you have any other suggestions, and thanks for reading.

WOW!!! My method (no dirty hands or busted knuckles):

1. Me (to Ford Service Manager): "Here is my Maverick. Please change the fluids."
2. Service Manager: "Will that be cash or charge?"
3. Me: "Here is my credit card."

 

[MetalsGeek]

To bad the maverick doesn't come with lifetime tranny fluid like my two 14 year old dodges.

You're going to get some blowback on the definition of "lifetime".

 

[Tim d]

You're going to get some blowback on the definition of "lifetime".

True,some people get rid of their vehicles every 2 years,some,like me,keep them.15-20 years.having said that,I also have a 52 year old Mopar that has only had the rear end fluid changed once and it's going strong.

 

[TacoTanium]

Thanks for the write up. Looks like it took a long time.

Can you post a picture of the vent plug where you filled it?

How could you tell you needed 4.25 qts? The old manual (no longer shown in the new manuals) state 9 qts.

 

[sanpablo]

I believe lug nut torque is 148 ft lbs?

 

[JamesD]

Hey MTC,

I just changed the transmission fluid on my 22 EB 4K and wanted to add some pro-tips I learned from reading/watching other videos. I did this at ~13k miles with my PTU/RDU oil swap (please do this! write up here) just in case it was needed. I used the OEM Motorcraft ULV I got from the dealership and it wasn't too expensive (~$60 total). You'll need 5 quarts, but only use ~4.25. My fluid looked pretty good and I'll likely only change this every 20-40k miles depending on how hard I use the truck.

First, I'd watch this video to go over all the steps. It's done on a very similar Ford escape that has the same/similar transmission as the maverick. However, there are some key things you'll do differently. You'll need mostly the same tools as the video, but it's a different socket for the tires (mine are 21 mm), the socket for the drain plug was not 7/16, and I only need a 10" extension to remove the leveling plug.

Steps: bulleted items are the tweaks to the above video

1. Jack up the car and secure it with jack stands or similar
2. Remove the skip plates/undercarriage cover with a T20 torx bit
3. Remove the bolt and drain the transmission fluid.
   • My plug was larger than the 7/16 in the video, but still part of a standard ratchet set. (sorry, forgot to write down the size)
4. Optional- Lower/level the car the get as much of the fluid out as possible.
   • I also flushed some fresh fluid through the system since you don't need the 5 full quarts
5. Re-install the drain plug so it's snug. Don't crank it down or over tighten (sorry, don't know the torque specs).
   • Do NOT re-install the skip plates/undercarriage cover until the very very end
6. Find the vent plug on top of the engine and remove the cap
7. Fill with ~4.25 quarts of fluid
   • This is where things were a bit tricky for me. The thick fluid really wants to pour out of the rubber vent tube since there isn't a way to let the back pressure/air out while filling through the funnel. You can easily dump transmission fluid on your engine without knowing (trust me)
   • I recommend pushing your funnel a bit into the rubber "volcano" until there is a slight seal (not too hard), and/or running the engine during this process. There will still be some bubbles from the transmission that can splash fluid out of the funnel, but that's ultimately a good sign that it's getting into the transmission and not seeping out onto the engine. Just pour slowly and you'll be fine. Also, make sure you don't start the car when the transmission is completely dry.
8. Re-install the vent cap, start the truck, and cycle through your gears. 5-10 seconds on each (P, R, N, D) at least 2 times to move the fluid around. You'll also need to get the new fluid up to operating temp, 180-200 F. You can let it idle or drive slowly around the block.
9. On a level/flat surface measure the ground clearance to a spot behind the front driver tire. This is where you'll lower the car to later to make sure it's the same height as operating.
10. Crack the bolts on the driver side front tire, jack up the car, and take off the front driver side wheel. You may be able to skip this set and reach around the turned tire, but removing it makes the drain process easier.
    • My car needed a 21mm socket for the tires and yours may be different depending on your trim/rim package. You can always use the supplied tire iron with your jack.
11. Lower the car back to the operating height you measured on step 9 to make sure it's level with where it sits normally.
12. Find the leveling plug on the transmission near the base of the control arm and remove it with the 10mm Allen socket. Any excess fluid in the transmission will immediately start coming out.
    • I only need a 10" extender for this part as I could reach the plug behind the suspension.
    • This is where it's important to leave the skip plates/undercarriage cover off. Fluid will pour onto them, spill in all directions, and coat everything. It sucks to have to jack up the car again, but I paid the price by putting them back on early.
13. Start the truck and run it until only about a dribble of fluid comes out. Insert the plug and tighten to pretty snug, but not too tight (sorry, don't know the torque specs). The plug has a rubber seal so it doesn't need to be extremely tight.
14. Lift the truck back up, install the skip plates/undercarriage cover, and put the tire back on with the lug nuts just snug. Finally, Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts to 50 ft-lb (I believe).

Done! Let me know if you have any other suggestions, and thanks for reading.

Thanks for all the help. My question: is it necessary to do all those steps after step #8, or can we just drain and refill. Thanks in advance!

 

[Tscottok]

Thanks for all the help. My question: is it necessary to do all those steps after step #8, or can we just drain and refill. Thanks in advance!

Honestly, everywhere I've seen a transmission fluid change had those steps (even for other vehicles). When you don't have a transmission dipstick, the procedure is to fill & drain out the excess (crazy I know). You have to run the engine/gears to make sure it's cleared out any bubbles, and that it can properly drain out any excess.

Basically, you really don't want to overfill the transmission fluid and the only way to get the right amount is by draining it, while running, on a level surface.

 

[jb_cb900]

A couple of suggestions.
Drain plug: 124 in/lb (INCH, NOT FOOT)
Leveling plug: 26 ft/lb
* Capture and measure drained fluid. Replace same amount.
* Drive the vehicle to get the trans up to full operating temperature.
* Remove the rubber vent tube assembly, not just the cap, to refill. You'll have to remove the air filter box to get to it.
** DO NOT REMOVE the leveling plug unless the engine is running! Do not turn off the engine until the leveling plug is replaced. With the engine off, trans fluid flows back into the trans and raises the level above the leveling plug.
Hope this helps.

 

[Tom 71 Maverick 24]

To bad the maverick doesn't come with lifetime tranny fluid like my two 14 year old dodges.

It kind of does, but like all vehicles that incorporate some type of clutches that eventually wear, it isn't really lifetime fluid. And any activity that increases the temperatures within will also serve to shorten the lifespan of the fluid (and the transmission) over time.

 

[Automan21]

Thanks for the write up. Looks like it took a long time.


How could you tell you needed 4.25 qts? The old manual (no longer shown in the new manuals) state 9 qts.

Any answer to this? Is it 9 or 4.25 qts?

 

[Tscottok]

For me it was 4 and 1/4 quarts. I've seen the nine figure posted around online, but My printed manual doesn't specify. Plus, I've seen several other videos that confirm it's under under 5.
I ended up adding close to 4.75 quarts and draining quite a bit out when I leveled & ran the vehicle.

 

[Meeka]

True,some people get rid of their vehicles every 2 years,some,like me,keep them.15-20 years.having said that,I also have a 52 year old Mopar that has only had the rear end fluid changed once and it's going strong.

Ooh, I love old Mopars! What is it, Charger, Challenger, Duster, ‘Cuda?

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