Transmission fluid maintenance

[JayGA]

I would like to do mine at 60k miles. Has anyone done it and can you post a Step by step instructions or can you recommend a How to video?

This is the video I watched. It's from an Edge but is the same transmission. (8F35).

Not a good video really but I haven't seen very many on the 8F35. Which is surprising because I'm sure many need it.


And the 6F35 (Fusion) that I had the fluid was really nasty (burnt) by about 50,000 miles. I don't know if it was because I was driving overloaded Fusion across country.

My plan would be to look into getting the fluid changed around 30k, probably around 3-5 years. Probably do it myself if it's after 5 years.

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[BoboysTruck]

This is the video I watched. It's from an Edge but is the same transmission. (8F35).

Not a good video really but I haven't seen very many on the 8F35. Which is surprising because I'm sure many need it.


And the 6F35 (Fusion) that I had the fluid was really nasty (burnt) by about 50,000 miles. I don't know if it was because I was driving overloaded Fusion across country.

My plan would be to look into getting the fluid changed around 30k, probably around 3-5 years. Probably do it myself if it's after 5 years.

I should mention, I have hybrid I mine is an eCVT.

 

[801Maverick801]

Going to change 8F35 Fluid, PTU, and rear diff at 10k. Then 30k mile intervals from there. Been doing an initial oil change on all the drive train fluids with my cars and I can tell you the first one is the most important getting out the break-in contamination.

Currently at 5k right now.

 

[Chrysler]

I noticed from the manual that it suggested a 30,000 Mile interval for transmission fluid changes under severe service. And a huge interval over 100,000 for "normal" highway commuting. Which makes me believe that 30k is the real interval for people who want to keep it past the warranty period.

I'm a long way from 30k on my Ecoboost.

But I'm curious if anyone changed theirs already.

I did some casual research and couldn't find any videos on YouTube but I'm not sure what other FMC vehicles the eight-speed transmission is used in, figuring the drain and fill procedure would be similar.

Just curious if anyone's done it (or had someone else do it).

I have just done my Ford Maverick 22 2.0 AWD transmission fluid drain at 15xxxmiles. I did my rear "diff" and front ptu at 13k. I HIGHLY recommend people doing the ptu and diff immediately. Both on my truck were low on fluid. (0.7qt vs 0.9-1qt to fill) and the rear diff drain bolt had a thick film of metallic debre from the magnetic catch. ( I drive respectful, and towed a small boat probably 1xxx miles of the 13xxx (1,000 pounds of people, boat, equipment).

The transmission fluid change is actually easy.
1. Remove engine carpet/ undercarriage cover. T30 screws
2. Open up engine hood, remove air filter.
3. Find transmission cap. ( It will be a black rubberized cap with a red triangle on it.) *Location is just left of your battery* take cap off, it pulls right up.
4. Remove drain plug. (14 mm bolt)
5. Wait, take pride that you saved money doing yourself.
6. Re attach drain plug. (14mm)
7. Measure amount you removed. * I used a kitchen measuring cup (my cup could go to 3qt, so I measured, drained into a oil container, repeated till drain pot empty)
8. Add the amount you took out back in.
9. Start Maverick, 5 seconds in each gear. P,R,N,D. repeat going back to park. D,N,T,P. Go for a 15 minute drive, or enough to heat everything up for a bit. Keep Maverick on, in park after completion.
10. Find level plug on driver side by tire. Can get to by cranking wheel, or Remove tire. ( Remember to keep vehicle level if removing tire/ put back to level. Measure from floor to a trim line.)
11. Level bolt is a 10mm hex. It is about a foot into the wheel well. It will be next to a sticker that says "ULV mercon -_+2+'8+2w';#" (I can't speak engineer)
12. Remove bolt.
13. Allow excess to drain. *Keeping engine running while this is happening?* ( If someone disagrees, please verify.)
14. Once it is level, re attach drain plug.
15. Post on a Maverick forum for others to say you did something completely wrong and then consider if you broke your truck.

Thanks for your time guys n gals.

 

[JayGA]

I have just done my Ford Maverick 22 2.0 AWD transmission fluid drain at 15xxxmiles. I did my rear "diff" and front ptu at 13k. I HIGHLY recommend people doing the ptu and diff immediately. Both on my truck were low on fluid. (0.7qt vs 0.9-1qt to fill) and the rear diff drain bolt had a thick film of metallic debre from the magnetic catch. ( I drive respectful, and towed a small boat probably 1xxx miles of the 13xxx (1,000 pounds of people, boat, equipment).

The transmission fluid change is actually easy.
1. Remove engine carpet/ undercarriage cover. T30 screws
2. Open up engine hood, remove air filter.
3. Find transmission cap. ( It will be a black rubberized cap with a red triangle on it.) *Location is just left of your battery* take cap off, it pulls right up.
4. Remove drain plug. (14 mm bolt)
5. Wait, take pride that you saved money doing yourself.
6. Re attach drain plug. (14mm)
7. Measure amount you removed. * I used a kitchen measuring cup (my cup could go to 3qt, so I measured, drained into a oil container, repeated till drain pot empty)
8. Add the amount you took out back in.
9. Start Maverick, 5 seconds in each gear. P,R,N,D. repeat going back to park. D,N,T,P. Go for a 15 minute drive, or enough to heat everything up for a bit. Keep Maverick on, in park after completion.
10. Find level plug on driver side by tire. Can get to by cranking wheel, or Remove tire. ( Remember to keep vehicle level if removing tire/ put back to level. Measure from floor to a trim line.)
11. Level bolt is a 10mm hex. It is about a foot into the wheel well. It will be next to a sticker that says "ULV mercon -_+2+'8+2w';#" (I can't speak engineer)
12. Remove bolt.
13. Allow excess to drain. *Keeping engine running while this is happening?* ( If someone disagrees, please verify.)
14. Once it is level, re attach drain plug.
15. Post on a Maverick forum for others to say you did something completely wrong and then consider if you broke your truck.

Thanks for your time guys n gals.

Very useful information. That doesn't sound very hard except for the whole getting the vehicle level, unless you can just park on a slight incline and turn the steering wheel at sharp angle to do it.

It also sort of boggles the mind why one would need to do that if they knew the exact amount they're putting in vs taking out.

Though I guess it is handy to have that level plug to prevent over filling. Like I know some transmissions only have a side-fill plug so you can't overfill them.

 

[Chrysler]

Very useful information. That doesn't sound very hard except for the whole getting the vehicle level, unless you can just park on a slight incline and turn the steering wheel at sharp angle to do it.

It also sort of boggles the mind why one would need to do that if they knew the exact amount they're putting in vs taking out.

Though I guess it is handy to have that level plug to prevent over filling. Like I know some transmissions only have a side-fill plug so you can't overfill them.

Hi sir,
Well, I was in a garage, which is about as level as it will get and did it all without removing my wheel. No need to level if I didn't jack it up in first place... I was giving the run down in case someone wanted the true down n dirty. I did measure just a tad over 6 quarts coming out. I added 6 quarts n 200mL to be on the safe side n called it good. (6.2 quarts).

 

[Kynno]

Have you ever considered sir that these engineers may be speaking with the best interests of the company in mind rather than you the consumer?

It's a well known fact amongst engineers that accountants get the final say on maintenance schedules .

 

[billbillw]

Always use the severe duty schedule! The way most people drive in the USA is severe duty. Stop and go city driving, hot/cold temps, lots of idling, rapid acceleration and braking, hauling, short trips, etc. The Normal schedule is what State Farm Drive Safe and Save wants you to do...(or any of those insurance saving apps). If you have one of those and you have a 100% score for safe driving, then maybe you can get away with normal schedule, unless you do lots of short trips, or idling, or hot temps, or cold temps. Fluids are a lot cheaper than replacement parts.

 

[801dute]

Bought a 5 year extended warranty and plan to sell mine a month before it runs out and upgrade. Getting too old to worry about changing fluids all the damn time or mischievous ford engineers colluding with the execs to stretch their bottom line. Buy the extended warranty, stick to THEIR schedule, and sell the truck before the warranty runs out.

That's my mentality, anyway. By 2028 there will surely be something I'd like to upgrade to, anyway.

 

[billbillw]

By 2028 there will surely be something I'd like to upgrade to, anyway.

But it might be only Electric and cost $70K.

I am mentally preparing to keep this truck for a long time as it may be my last new gasoline vehicle.

 

[801dute]

But it might be only Electric and cost $70K.

I am mentally preparing to keep this truck for a long time as it may be my last new gasoline vehicle.

AFAIK the current government quotas are only for about 67% EV production by 2032 so I think there will be plenty of new gas and/or hybrid gas trucks for another decade or two.

 

[SLINGSHOT]

AFAIK the current government quotas are only for about 67% EV production by 2032 so I think there will be plenty of new gas and/or hybrid gas trucks for another decade or two.

When they realize that, if the EV goal is met, there will 50 cars for each public charger, and not enough line capacity, that will change.
Home charging . . . some areas already have rolling blackouts. Add a few hundred thousand cars.

 

[billbillw]

AFAIK the current government quotas are only for about 67% EV production by 2032 so I think there will be plenty of new gas and/or hybrid gas trucks for another decade or two.

I probably wasn't clear what I meant. I really wasn't saying that there wouldn't be available gasoline vehicles, but that the more interesting choices will be electric, and with inflation, they will be pricey. My plan will probably be to supplement the Maverick with a used electric vehicle in about 5 years. I'll use the e-vehicle for the short trips to the store and keep the Mav for road trips, utility, and adventure outings.

 

[Jackflash]

I probably wasn't clear what I meant. I really wasn't saying that there wouldn't be available gasoline vehicles, but that the more interesting choices will be electric, and with inflation, they will be pricey. My plan will probably be to supplement the Maverick with a used electric vehicle in about 5 years. I'll use the e-vehicle for the short trips to the store and keep the Mav for road trips, utility, and adventure outings.

I alread do that. I have a 2021 Mach e GT that I only drive around town up to 200 miles round trip. I is only charged in my garage. I have a 2023 Maverick Lariat that I drive on trips.

 

[MaverickTopGun]

My plan will probably be to supplement the Maverick with a used electric vehicle in about 5 years. I'll use the e-vehicle for the short trips to the store and keep the Mav for road trips, utility, and adventure outings.

That's exactly what I'm doing now.
Seems to be optimal. The Mav Hybrid gives me an average 40 MPG in mixed driving for long trips, or for me driving around town when the wife took the Leaf (216 mile range) EV.

That could be the future for about 1/3 of U.S. households in the near future. To have an EV, I still maintain it's hard to own one if you can't recharge at an apartment or condo at night, a must. About half the population in the U.S. may not be able to easily charge at home. .... And a lot of people can't afford 2 cars, so there is a fraction of people with that issue.

A Hybrid (maybe PHEV, but not absolutely necessary) for great MPG, and just get a 2nd car EV to use mostly around town and medium trips outside of town. Our '22 Leaf SV+ (216 mile range) EV is perfect most of the time, running errands, getting to parks 50 miles away and back, etc.

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