Spare Tire Wisdom

[Carlitos_92]

Since many of us "early buyers" paid extra for a "full sized spare" only to find out that it is not, I am interested in how this plays out for you. I wonder if it will fit in the space provided under the bed if you put an OEM size tore there. Has anyone tried to put their "flat" tire back under the truck?

Unfortunately my truck came with the super-small temporary spare. I bought a full-size steel rim and Pirelli Scorpion to match the other 4 on my truck. Pirellis won't be my choice of tire when it's time for 4 new ones, but for now, I figured I'd make it as OEM-ish as possible.

Biggest issue is the steel "teeth" in front of the spare tire that are meant to puncture it during a rear-end collision. Not sure all trucks have these, but their pointed ends rub on a full-size tire package unless you bend them out of the way. ...Or in my case, get out the angle grinder.

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[Shelbyv8]

Good Idea. My 1989 Shelby Dakota pickup has about 200,000 miles on it and has been through 20-30 sets of tires. The Factory spare is still under it and has not touched the ground. It does still hold air but I wouldn't want to drive on it.

 

[JimKivi]

It is "full Size" just not matching.
There are posts on here where folks have installed full size MATCHING spares in the spare tire location. Just search.

Not to nit pick, but my 215/60 R17 is not the "full size" of my OEM tires as implied by the option when I ordered the truck. True, it is a seventeen inch tire, but so are a lot of motorcycle tires.

 

[James K]

Since the Maverick has a new-to-me approach to stowing the spare tire, I thought I would do a dry run on its use in my driveway on a nice, sunny afternoon. After all, why not play with my toys for an hour and also reduce future swearing, at night, in the rain, on the side of the interstate? I strongly recommend that you do the same, since you may discover some things sure to make your future life easier and safer. Here's my list of personal epiphanies:

1. IMPORTANT: The tailgate MUST be up for the jack handle extension tube to fit thru the hole above the bumper and lower the spare. If you have a jack extension drive tube in place and lower the tailgate, you may damage the tailgate. (Don't ask how I know this.) If you get a flat while carrying a full load that covers the tailgate, you're screwed. An attached trailer will also interfere with your ability to turn the handle and lower the spare. All these problems could have been solved by putting the access hole in the wheel well or on a corner instead of centered above the bumper. Great job, Ford!

2. Study how the jack is packed when you unwrap it so you can get it back the same way. The manual has sketches on p.357 & 360. The small plastic tip seems useful for removing XL hubcaps but n/a for alloy wheels.

3. The gender of the jack extension tubes may seem backwards to anyone used to square drive tools. e.g. The female end goes into the truck, and the male end engages a square hole in the handle.

4. You will probably have to lie down on the ground to be able to reach under the bumper well enough to disconnect the spare from the cable system. I suggest you keep a small (5x7) Harbor Freight tarp with the jack. Some heavy nitrile gloves wouldn't hurt either, to keep your steering wheel clean on the rest of your trip.

5. There's a heavy redundant cable (in addition to the winch) on the spare. I assume this is to prevent injury to the person tailgating you, should your winch cable fail.

6. There's a blue plastic cone that must be removed from the cable to get the spare off. This item is at VERY high risk of loss on the roadside, so try to put it back on the cable as soon as you disconnect the spare, and of course, winch the cable back up so it won't drag on the ground.

7. If you have aftermarket lug nut locks like McGard, consider putting the key where you're sure to find it even if you forgot where you put it several years from now. You DID already order a spare, right?

8. I don't carry wheel chocks, but I do carry ratchet straps that tie up tightly for storage and could be used for that in a pinch.

I'm sure other members will chime in and share the wisdom. Please do!

I'm glad you guys all practice changing a flat because my plan is to pay an attractive female to stand next to my truck while I hide in the back seat under a blanket until one of you guys drive by and decide to be chivalrous.

 

[Brianx]

i'm guessing the female end that engages the winch under the truck is so that mud doesn't clog a female receiver under the truck. the tool will always be mud free.

 

[Old Fart]

I'm using the 4 way lug wrench I bought for my 63 Chevy II Nova, when I first got it so I'm good, it was pricy at NAPA but it's been in all 20 or so beater's I've had.

 

[TwoTone]

1. IMPORTANT: The tailgate MUST be up for the jack handle extension tube to fit thru the hole above the bumper and lower the spare. If you have a jack extension drive tube in place and lower the tailgate, you may damage the tailgate. (Don't ask how I know this.) If you get a flat while carrying a full load that covers the tailgate, you're screwed. An attached trailer will also interfere with your ability to turn the handle and lower the spare. All these problems could have been solved by putting the access hole in the wheel well or on a corner instead of centered above the bumper. Great job, Ford!

Should have checked where it's at on other trucks before the big whine.

 

[TKranbuhl]

Thanks for the heads up. We're doing a couple of road trips in the next month and my "prep" was going to be "hoping" we wouldn't have a flat. If we catch a dry day I'll do the spare and jack routine and again "hope" we won' t need to remember what I just figured out in my driveway.

 

[Oscarcat]

Since the Maverick has a new-to-me approach to stowing the spare tire, I thought I would do a dry run on its use in my driveway on a nice, sunny afternoon. After all, why not play with my toys for an hour and also reduce future swearing, at night, in the rain, on the side of the interstate? I strongly recommend that you do the same, since you may discover some things sure to make your future life easier and safer. Here's my list of personal epiphanies:

1. IMPORTANT: The tailgate MUST be up for the jack handle extension tube to fit thru the hole above the bumper and lower the spare. If you have a jack extension drive tube in place and lower the tailgate, you may damage the tailgate. (Don't ask how I know this.) If you get a flat while carrying a full load that covers the tailgate, you're screwed. An attached trailer will also interfere with your ability to turn the handle and lower the spare. All these problems could have been solved by putting the access hole in the wheel well or on a corner instead of centered above the bumper. Great job, Ford!

2. Study how the jack is packed when you unwrap it so you can get it back the same way. The manual has sketches on p.357 & 360. The small plastic tip seems useful for removing XL hubcaps but n/a for alloy wheels.

3. The gender of the jack extension tubes may seem backwards to anyone used to square drive tools. e.g. The female end goes into the truck, and the male end engages a square hole in the handle.

4. You will probably have to lie down on the ground to be able to reach under the bumper well enough to disconnect the spare from the cable system. I suggest you keep a small (5x7) Harbor Freight tarp with the jack. Some heavy nitrile gloves wouldn't hurt either, to keep your steering wheel clean on the rest of your trip.

5. There's a heavy redundant cable (in addition to the winch) on the spare. I assume this is to prevent injury to the person tailgating you, should your winch cable fail.

6. There's a blue plastic cone that must be removed from the cable to get the spare off. This item is at VERY high risk of loss on the roadside, so try to put it back on the cable as soon as you disconnect the spare, and of course, winch the cable back up so it won't drag on the ground.

7. If you have aftermarket lug nut locks like McGard, consider putting the key where you're sure to find it even if you forgot where you put it several years from now. You DID already order a spare, right?

8. I don't carry wheel chocks, but I do carry ratchet straps that tie up tightly for storage and could be used for that in a pinch.

I'm sure other members will chime in and share the wisdom. Please do!

Good reminder, much appreciated. I have been putting this off. It is now on my list. My understanding is the lug nuts torque is 110 pounds?

That said, I have been blessed, lucky or both not to have a flat on the road in XX years. That made me complacent. But training never hurts.

 

[Scott Asheville]

Also consider a full size spare kit. I went through a few days on my high pressure spare while waiting for a tire repair appointment. It's a miserable experience. The high pressure spare was intended to get you a few miles to a tire shop. I kept to back roads and lower speeds, and it still sucked.

It would be nice if the arrival of BEV trucks leads to spare tires in a compartment reachable from the bed, not under the bed. Some pickups have those compartments. Or put it in the frunk.

 

[Scott Asheville]

I know this will generate lots of grief, but AAA is your best friend. Especially if you're the other side of 70. I've had multiple flats repaired by AAA, both at home and on the road. Usually pretty quick, pretty friendly, and free with a very affordable membership.

To kneecap the inevitable know-it-all, snarky troll responses. Yea, I know how to change a flat tire and have done it many times over the years (including Army Jeeps and other military vehicles). Doesn't mean I want to when I don't have to. And yea, there are locations where AAA won't reach you or you can't reach them.

 

[SLJ]

First thing I did is get a matching full size wheel w/TPMS sensor and matching tire and ditched the doughnut Ford provided. A Falken 235/60/R18 fits with a little room to spare. A breaker bar with deep sockets is a good thing to carry also. Good practice for when I need to do it on the road.

 

[MetalsGeek]

i'm guessing the female end that engages the winch under the truck is so that mud doesn't clog a female receiver under the truck. the tool will always be mud free.

There's a plastic tube between the winch and bumper that should keep the winch connection relatively clean and also help guide the extension tube onto the connection. If you look at all the pieces, it seems clear that the system was designed to be inexpensive to make, yet remain functional. For a cheapo system, I think it does its job pretty well. I should have taken photos...

 

[MetalsGeek]

Good reminder, much appreciated. I have been putting this off. It is now on my list. My understanding is the lug nuts torque is 110 pounds?

I think the official spec for the Maverick lug nuts is 150 ft-lbs, but just between us chickens, I would hesitate to go that high. For 50 years, I've tended to break the rules by using a bit of lubricant like anti-seize on the threads (to prevent galling & corrosion) and then low-balling the torque. Never, ever had a problem with nuts coming loose.

 

[Oscarcat]

I think the official spec for the Maverick lug nuts is 150 ft-lbs, but just between us chickens, I would hesitate to go that high. For 50 years, I've tended to break the rules by using a bit of lubricant like anti-seize on the threads (to prevent galling & corrosion) and then low-balling the torque. Never, ever had a problem with nuts coming loose.

Agreed 100%- for normal use, on paved roads I don't go that high either. Also, the risk of warping things if carelessly torqued that high . Not to mention how hard it is to remove [even with anti seize!]

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