Rust on roof bordering windshield

[vandeda2024]

Wow, that's frightening how fast that became perforated! That metal appears to have zero rust protection. I periodically check all my cars in that area as I've found rock chips and rust from said rock chips on all vehicles so far except my Maverick. But none rusted that fast, so I'll make sure to check the Maverick more often since we use lots of road salt.

I hope Ford takes care of you. Rock chip or not, to perforate that bad and that quick to me says something went wrong in the painting/metal protection department.

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[SPIJG]

Wow, that's frightening how fast that became perforated! That metal appears to have zero rust protection. I periodically check all my cars in that area as I've found rock chips and rust from said rock chips on all vehicles so far except my Maverick. But none rusted that fast, so I'll make sure to check the Maverick more often since we use lots of road salt.

I hope Ford takes care of you. Rock chip or not, to perforate that bad and that quick to me says something went wrong in the painting/metal protection department.

Thank you for your input and I hope to get to the local dealer tomorrow...

 

[Mavman1]

Not sure how to treat this and living on the salt water doesn't help, so looking for a remedy to repair/fix this....

The original post indicates " living on the salt water doesn't help". Just curious, is the truck normally parked outside all the time exposed to the elements or is it parked in a garage?

 

[BK007]

Thank you for your input and I hope to get to the local dealer tomorrow...

Let us know how it all goes. Good Luck!

 

[SPIJG]

Let us know how it all goes. Good Luck!

Will do and thank you!

 

[Mudduck]

All of this probably has nothing to do with the Mavericks paint being like 2.6-2.8 mils thick, when industry standard is 4.2-4.9?

 

[SPIJG]

All of this probably has nothing to do with the Mavericks paint being like 2.6-2.8 mils thick, when industry standard is 4.2-4.9?

WOW, did not know that, great stat, thanks for your input

 

[BK007]

The real issue is the modern water-based eco-paints. To meet strict environmental EPA regulations, almost all automotive manufacturers (especially Ford at the Hermosillo plant) had to switch to water-borne paint systems.
These paints and clear coats are notoriously soft and brittle compared to the old-school, chemically heavy solvent paints of past. They are sprayed precisely by automated robots, and the bare steel panels are submerged in an E-Coat (electro-deposition) bath for rust protection before the color even goes on but that top layer remains highly vulnerable to highway stone chips.

 

[Mudduck]

The real issue is the modern water-based eco-paints. To meet strict environmental EPA regulations, almost all automotive manufacturers (especially Ford at the Hermosillo plant) had to switch to water-borne paint systems.
These paints and clear coats are notoriously soft and brittle compared to the old-school, chemically heavy solvent paints of past. They are sprayed precisely by automated robots, and the bare steel panels are submerged in an E-Coat (electro-deposition) bath for rust protection before the color even goes on—but that top layer remains highly vulnerable to highway stone chips.

I guess a good answer would be colour matched Raptor liner or Line X in a very fine texture. Waxing your Maverick with 303 Aerospace would be awesome!

 

[MikeS1942]

All of this probably has nothing to do with the Mavericks paint being like 2.6-2.8 mils thick, when industry standard is 4.2-4.9?

Not sure your numbers are correct. Industry standards are not that high anymore, and the Maverick low end appears to be 3.1. Whatever the case, why would one wait this long to check into repair. This didn't reach this level of deterioration over night in a location which is extremely visible.

 

[Mudduck]

Not sure your numbers are correct. Industry standards are not that high anymore, and the Maverick low end appears to be 3.1. Whatever the case, why would one wait this long to check into repair. This didn't reach this level of deterioration over night in a location which is extremely visible.

Industry Standard for Paint Thickness
The standard paint thickness for cars and trucks varies based on the type of finish applied by manufacturers. Here are the key details:

Typical Thickness Range

Finish Type	Thickness Range (Microns)	Thickness Range (Mils)
Factory Finish	100 - 180	4 - 7

Breakdown of Paint Layers
The total paint thickness includes several layers:

• Clear Coat: 40 - 70 microns (1.6 - 2.8 mils)
• Base (Color) Coat: 15 - 30 microns (0.6 - 1.2 mils)
• Primer: 20 - 40 microns (0.8 - 1.6 mils)

I have 2 different tools to measure paint thickness. The advertised vs actual probably has some variation as well. There are some spots on my personal truck and some at the dealership that I tested that were as low as 2.4 mils.

As to why the OP may not have seen it.... Have you ever seen "Little people big world"? lol, I dont know and cannot answer for him, but on a 2-2.5 year old truck being rusted through.... damn shame either way. Budget vehicles, budget problems.

 

[LSchicago]

Takevit in for the corrosion warranty.

 

[ZeroK]

I think the best time to take it in was when it first started showing signs. Im no corrosion expert, but it looks like it's been going on for a long while. I wouldn't be surprised if Ford denies the corrosion warranty coverage just due to the fact it's been going on for so long without you giving them a chance to fix it in its early stages. It's not like it's underneath the truck and hidden, it's very visible every day you go out to the car.

 

[ice445]

Wonder if the paint is all same quality? Seems the color White has had more issues in the threads about rusting or staining? White is a popular color - so that may be an explanation too…

I do wonder if this has something to do with it, but it’s hard to say. Could also just be bad roof sections that aren’t being prepped properly. I don’t think a stone chip did that, but I’m far from an expert on the subject.

 

[Platinum2]

This can't hurt anything as well. Go to a reputable, independent body shop first. Get a formal written estimate from them, and explicitly ask the shop manager to write down their professional opinion on what caused it and whether it rotted from the inside out.

Take that official paperwork straight to the Ford dealership with you. When you have a professional body shop backing you up stating it's a structural failure/perforation issue, the dealer can't just casually brush you off and claim it's a regular old rock chip that caused the damage.

Dealer isn't going to care what any other body shop thinks. Most dealerships have their own body shops anyway and repairs, if any, will be evaluated and completed in accordance with the vehicle warranty to the extent there is any.

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