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How do you start/warm-up a hybrid engine in extreme cold

Glen Baker LLC

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tom_tucker

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How do I warm up the ICE? I don't use the cabin heat at all unless the Temp needle has moved well above minimum AND I'm on a 10+ minute drive. I don't use cabin heat for short drives. I want my engine to last. Gloves, hats and coats are cheap, engines are expensive. I let the ICE warm up with the cabin heat off. I use the seat heater and steering wheel. About a 60 second warm up until I like how the engine sounds, then move.

In conclusion- gloves, hats, jackets and 87 octane are cheap, 2.5 liter engines are expensive. I don't steal ICE heat for short drives.

Also, after a winter drive, I evacuate the warm air before shut down. I want dry, cold air in the cabin for the next warm up. This avoids heavy frost on the inside glass.
 

smoreho2

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Asking general guidance for Hybrid engine - how do you warm up the engine (not the cabin heat) in extreme cold weather

For my past gas burning engines I would always let the car run for 1 minute or so to get fluids moving around before engine load of going into Drive

If the hybrid starts and stays in "electric mode" the gas engine just kicks in down the road, is there anything to do to be nice to my Mavvy? Just wondering
I always switch my drive mode over to sport so that the ice engine runs as much as possible until it gets to temp. Then switch back or leave it if on a shorter run
 

HeyBales

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How do I warm up the ICE? I don't use the cabin heat at all unless the Temp needle has moved well above minimum AND I'm on a 10+ minute drive. I don't use cabin heat for short drives. I want my engine to last. Gloves, hats and coats are cheap, engines are expensive. I let the ICE warm up with the cabin heat off. I use the seat heater and steering wheel. About a 60 second warm up until I like how the engine sounds, then move.

In conclusion- gloves, hats, jackets and 87 octane are cheap, 2.5 liter engines are expensive. I don't steal ICE heat for short drives.

Also, after a winter drive, I evacuate the warm air before shut down. I want dry, cold air in the cabin for the next warm up. This avoids heavy frost on the inside glass.
Just confirmed this morning, albeit only 38 F.

HVAC off - system willing to let coolant do the 120 F thing - when ICE called for, heats to 120 minimum and if ICE power not needed, EV mode allowed.
(logs at -2 F showed unable to get warmer until I went above 28 mph, at which point I needed ICE power so unknown if it would have been willing to go to EV mode)

HVAC on set to HI (so abouts 50 degree diff) with fan spd 3 - system turns on ICE when coolant hit 126, off if not needed at 136.
(when colder, I've seen the range 136-145)

So if desire is to keep ICE warmer in cold - HVAC on causes the on/off range to go UP, warmer.
Not requesting cabin heat allows it to run colder if power not needed.

That all would matter on city driving and normal EV is allowed frequently.
If jumping on highway - moot point.
 

AutobahnSHO

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How do I warm up the ICE? I don't use the cabin heat at all unless the Temp needle has moved well above minimum AND I'm on a 10+ minute drive. I don't use cabin heat for short drives. I want my engine to last. Gloves, hats and coats are cheap, engines are expensive. I let the ICE warm up with the cabin heat off. I use the seat heater and steering wheel. About a 60 second warm up until I like how the engine sounds, then move.

In conclusion- gloves, hats, jackets and 87 octane are cheap, 2.5 liter engines are expensive. I don't steal ICE heat for short drives.

Also, after a winter drive, I evacuate the warm air before shut down. I want dry, cold air in the cabin for the next warm up. This avoids heavy frost on the inside glass.
This makes no sense. Using the heater doesn't harm any car's engine- it just uses some of the wasted heat.

And in the hybrid world- turning the heat on will guarantee the ICE will turn on, getting the oil and engine warmed up BEFORE you make it do harder work.
 

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This makes no sense. Using the heater doesn't harm any car's engine- it just uses some of the wasted heat.

And in the hybrid world- turning the heat on will guarantee the ICE will turn on, getting the oil and engine warmed up BEFORE you make it do harder work.
Mmmmmm.....

There's no waste heat the first 4-5 minutes. In a hybrid, hardly any waste heat at all in stop n go.

I think people are worried about the first 4-5 minutes of a cold start. I take it easy the first few minutes but I don't puff in the driveway.
 

tom_tucker

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This makes no sense. Using the heater doesn't harm any car's engine- it just uses some of the wasted heat.

And in the hybrid world- turning the heat on will guarantee the ICE will turn on, getting the oil and engine warmed up BEFORE you make it do harder work.
Thanks for your input, I'll do it my way. I can see the engine Temp gauge drop as soon as I turn the heat on. It's as clear as day to me so I keep it off. Speeds and temps are low in my area. One the highway it heats right up, no issue.
 

tom_tucker

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Just confirmed this morning, albeit only 38 F.

HVAC off - system willing to let coolant do the 120 F thing - when ICE called for, heats to 120 minimum and if ICE power not needed, EV mode allowed.
(logs at -2 F showed unable to get warmer until I went above 28 mph, at which point I needed ICE power so unknown if it would have been willing to go to EV mode)

HVAC on set to HI (so abouts 50 degree diff) with fan spd 3 - system turns on ICE when coolant hit 126, off if not needed at 136.
(when colder, I've seen the range 136-145)

So if desire is to keep ICE warmer in cold - HVAC on causes the on/off range to go UP, warmer.
Not requesting cabin heat allows it to run colder if power not needed.

That all would matter on city driving and normal EV is allowed frequently.
If jumping on highway - moot point.
Thanks. In that case I may keep the HVAC on at HI temp and min fan. Basically trick it to burn more fuel and realize some minimal cabin heat. I do agree about using Sport mode or Tow/haul. I want the system to burn fuel when I'm at low speeds and short distances.
 

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This makes no sense. Using the heater doesn't harm any car's engine- it just uses some of the wasted heat.

And in the hybrid world- turning the heat on will guarantee the ICE will turn on, getting the oil and engine warmed up BEFORE you make it do harder work.
Yep...I'm with you Autobahn....."I want my 2.5 to last" Really??? Come on guys. I've almost heard it all now....ALMOST. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
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How do I warm up the ICE? I don't use the cabin heat at all unless the Temp needle has moved well above minimum AND I'm on a 10+ minute drive. I don't use cabin heat for short drives. I want my engine to last. Gloves, hats and coats are cheap, engines are expensive. I let the ICE warm up with the cabin heat off. I use the seat heater and steering wheel. About a 60 second warm up until I like how the engine sounds, then move.

In conclusion- gloves, hats, jackets and 87 octane are cheap, 2.5 liter engines are expensive. I don't steal ICE heat for short drives.

Also, after a winter drive, I evacuate the warm air before shut down. I want dry, cold air in the cabin for the next warm up. This avoids heavy frost on the inside glass.
I do the same,
How do I warm up the ICE? I don't use the cabin heat at all unless the Temp needle has moved well above minimum AND I'm on a 10+ minute drive. I don't use cabin heat for short drives. I want my engine to last. Gloves, hats and coats are cheap, engines are expensive. I let the ICE warm up with the cabin heat off. I use the seat heater and steering wheel. About a 60 second warm up until I like how the engine sounds, then move.

In conclusion- gloves, hats, jackets and 87 octane are cheap, 2.5 liter engines are expensive. I don't steal ICE heat for short drives.

Also, after a winter drive, I evacuate the warm air before shut down. I want dry, cold air in the cabin for the next warm up. This avoids heavy frost on the inside glass.
Since the engine runs cool I make sure to run full synthetic oil and get a good long run in
Mmmmmm.....

There's no waste heat the first 4-5 minutes. In a hybrid, hardly any waste heat at all in stop n go.

I think people are worried about the first 4-5 minutes of a cold start. I take it easy the first few minutes but I don't puff in the driveway.
Yeah, take it very easy at first. Around town if I use the cabin heat it won't come up to max engine temperature. Another reason to use full synthetic oil.
I take any opportunity to make a longer highway trip to get it good and warm.
 

tom_tucker

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Yep...I'm with you Autobahn....."I want my 2.5 to last" Really??? Come on guys. I've almost heard it all now....ALMOST. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Thanks for your contribution regarding "extreme cold" from the cold weather states of South Carolina and Texas, lol. You can both cram it. You have been ignored so don't bother Ken...
 
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Kenv24

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Thanks for your contribution regarding "extreme cold" from the cold weather states of South Carolina and Texas, lol. You can both cram it.
Sincerely, from Texas and South Carolina. You’re welcome. 🙂
 

MetalsGeek

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I have a '23 XLT (with traditional Off-Accy-Run-Start ignition switch). It took me a very long time to learn that I can leave baby in Park and just depress the accelerator to force an engine start. The service department at my dealership did not know this either.
 

Oscarbaron

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Bill,
Are you wanting to remote start or physically start your hybrid?
I am asking because, if you physically go to your truck and "turn it on" ( a phrase I use for hybrids)
you can then press the accelerator and the ice engine will start.
Once the ice engine has started I have no idea how long it will continue to run.
The ice engine on the hybrid will continue to run longer upon start up when its cold out if the heat is engaged and turned on. Heat off the engine may run for a few minutes then turn off.
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