I went back in the manual (draft?) to search and all I got was this note on “why is the engine running” section lol
The battery management system wouldn't allow the HV batt to get that low under most circumstances. Even if you drove to the lowest SoC possible and then stopped there's still about a 30-35% 'floor' that's reserved. Remember lithium batteries really don't like being fully discharged. The older NiMH hybrids before a reserve system was implemented had a manual jump function.
The only experience I have so far is with my 2 C-maxes. In the past 5 years of owning the hybrid, there have been maybe 2 occasions where the hybrid battery had been depleted due to some extensive slow driving, A/C on high, in electric mode. Upon restarting, the gas engine shuddered a bit and came to life, then remained on until the hybrid battery had been sufficiently charged. According to the gauge the C-max hybrid usually operates between 1/3 and 2/3 charge, i.e. driving on the interstate at 65 mph, fairly level road, the car will cruise on electric until the battery drops to about 1/3. Then the gas engine comes online until the charge reaches about 2/3, then it's back to electric. Perhaps it was the main battery that started the engine those times...I'm only guessing since the power gauge had showed just about empty. The Maverick is likely a completely different animal since we're talking 6 years difference.
If so, it's the first time Ford's done that, IN A HYBRID.
It’s very common in modern cars. My 2019 Tacoma had it, as well as my previous and current Audi.
Got any documentation specific to Ford hybrids? I get cabin heat when the temperature gauge moves, not before. Even so, it comes up fast enough that one would be forgiven for thinking there's an aux heater somewhere.
Didn’t say it was common in Ford hybrids. I said it is common in modern vehicles. I gave you 3 vehicles I’ve owned in the last few years.
Far as documentation to Ford hybrids, look at the owners manual in the fuse section for the 2022 Maverick.
This engine compartment is going to take some getting used to. Beyond the basics one of the first things I'm going to do is get a micro amp meter and check across that troublesome harness to battery connection. I hope they've addressed that.I found this article at the Ford Authority website.
https://fordauthority.com/fmc/ford-...ratec-engine-family/ford-2-5l-duratec-engine/
2.5L Duratec Engine
The Duratec 25, also known as the Mazda L engine, is a 2.5-liter naturally aspirated four-cylinder from Ford Motor used to power midsize cars, cargo vans and sport utility vehicles, also known as SUVs. Featuring a dual overhead cam (DOHC) design, in an inline configuration, the Ford Duratec 25 engine has been part of the Ford Duratec engine family since 2008, but was first introduced on the North-American market in 2009.
This engine was developed in partnership with Mazda (part of the MZR family), but under Ford ownership, which explains why it was used in a variety of different vehicle applications from one brand to the next. Such variations also mean that a slew of different technologies were grafted onto the engine as it evolved, things like the Atkinson cycle, hybrid technology and adaptive knock control for improved fuel efficiency. The Ford Duratec 25 engine powers the following vehicles:
Duratec 25
- Ford Escape
- Ford Fusion
- Ford Transit Connect
- Lincoln MKZ
The Duratec 25, or Duratec 2.5L I-4, is an evolution of the Duratec 23. 'Duratec 25' should not be confused with the similarly named 2.5L V6 Ford Duratec. The new Duratec 25 is an inline 4-cylinder engine design that is identical to the Mazda MZR 2.5L. The bore and stroke have increased to 89mm x 100mm and as such now displaces 2488cc | 151ci. Power has been increased to 171hp@6000rpm and 171lb-ft@4500rpm torque. A Hybrid Duratec 25 will be replacing the Hybrid Duratec 23.
Fuel saving features include adaptive knock control and aggressive deceleration fuel cutoff.[3]
- 2010- Ford Fusion
- 2010- Mercury Milan
- 2009- Ford Escape
Overview
Metric Value Engine family Duratec Displacement 2.5 liters Aspiration Atmospheric Configuration & cylinders Inline configuration, four cylinders Vehicle engine orientation Transverse Valve configuration Dual-overhead cam (DOHC) Assembly sites Dearborn, Michigan, USA / Chihuahua, Mexico / Hiroshima, Japan Predecessor Mazda F engine Successor Ford EcoBoost
Metric Value Bore 89 mm Stroke 100 mm Compression ratio 9.7:1 Max power @ RPM 175 hp @ 6,000 rpm Max torque @ RPM 172 lb-ft @ 4,500 rpm Cylinder head Aluminum Cylinder block Aluminum Camshaft drive Chain
Vehicle Transmission Drive Wheels Power@ RPM Torque (lb-ft) @ RPM Ford Escape (2009 - 2019) Six-speed automatic FWD / AWD 170 @ 6,000 167 @ 4,000 Ford Fusion (2010 - 2013) Six-speed manual / Six-speed automatic FWD 175 @ 6,000 172 @ 4,500 Ford Fusion Hybrid (2010 - 2013) Continously variable automatic (CVT) FWD 156 @ 5,550 (191 hp combined) 136 @ 4,000 Ford Fusion (2013 - 2019) Six-speed automatic FWD 175 @ 6,000 175 @ 4,500 Ford Transit Connect (2014 - 2018) Six-speed automatic FWD 169 @ 6,000 171 @ 4,500 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid (2011) Continously variable automatic (CVT) FWD 156 @ 5,550 (191 hp combined) 136 @ 4,000 Mercury Milan (2010 - 2013) Six-speed automatic FWD 175 @ 6,000 172 @ 4,500 Mercury Milan Hybrid (2010 - 2011) Continuously variable automatic (CVT) FWD 156 @ 5,550 (191 hp combined) 136 @ 4,00
It's because you are not creating heat. You are moving any heat that is outside of the home to the inside of the home. Some heat pumps do have electric heaters as they dont work so well below 40 degrees. Electric resistance heaters are 100 percent that does not mean it is free..
In my experience (without having the recall done that removes some of the flaps) the engine reaches operating temperature (3 or 4 bars on the lariat screen) very quickly. And heat works extremely well but it will kill your fuel mileage as you're running the engine only for heat and not for propulsion.
Yes, in my experience. For example, in my mild climate in central NC it does get below freezing. My commute is short, like 5 minutes. I start feeling warm air after 2-3 minutes or so but it doesn’t really ramp up to the full heat until around the 4 minute mark. Heated seats and heated steering wheel in my Mav are awesome in this situation. Often I’d just leave the heat setting off since I’d only have like 1 minute more to get to work once the heat is really going — not for any efficiency reason, but because I’d usually just forget to turn on the fans since I didn’t want them blowing cold air on me in the beginning.
