12.46 volts should not present a problem.
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Update: Strangely, when I use the remote start feature and get into the truck, the audio is working. This only just started happening a few days ago after months of not working.
However, the audio ONLY works when I do the remote start, and even then it takes a little bit to actually kick in. If I try to start the truck using the push button, the audio remains off and never ends up turning on.
Does anyone have any idea what may be happening here? Clearly there is an issue somewhere, but it seems like it is more of a power/startup sequence issue more than anything right?
However, the audio ONLY works when I do the remote start, and even then it takes a little bit to actually kick in. If I try to start the truck using the push button, the audio remains off and never ends up turning on.
Does anyone have any idea what may be happening here? Clearly there is an issue somewhere, but it seems like it is more of a power/startup sequence issue more than anything right?
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Late seeing all this and didn't read it all so this may have already been done, my only thought is to disconnect the battery for a while and see if that does anything, i assume that would reset everything associated with the radio. Good Luck
You have these codes coming on and off. This was about 45 minutes ago. All active faults and not stored codes.
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Interesting combo of errors and what does work.
I wonder if the communication via remote start is thru different route than communication from those modules not able to talk to the radio.
Could be 1 network connection between them to the radio, and 1 different route for remote.
How much do you enjoy reading thru wiring diagrams?
Some things are very difficult to diagnose remotely. From my understanding, the raw audio signal comes from the APIM and goes to the ACM where is uses A2B to send the audio signals to the DSP (on vehicles with B&O that have a DSP). The codes your truck is reporting are lost comms codes between the APIM and several other modules, so on the surface, it seems like the source of the problem is the APIM itself.
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Didn't the APIM, along with the DSP, IPC, WACM all have problems getting a response from the radio?
I'm guessing the radio in this case is the ACM, which is strange it doesn't call it that.
Or could that mean the radio specific section of the ACM didn't respond?
The radio is the ACM
All the codes are an HS3 communications problem with the ACM.
So its either a poor connection at the ACM or the ACM itself as all the modules down streem of the ACM never go offline
All the codes are an HS3 communications problem with the ACM.
So its either a poor connection at the ACM or the ACM itself as all the modules down streem of the ACM never go offline
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This makes sense to me. Just surprised to not see any ACM codes at all if it is the culprit.
@crbalch I see you're out of warranty. The ACM itself is not too difficult to get to and swap out yourself if you feel comfortable with basic tools. I am sure you can get one for cheap on ebay.
Edit: Or, you can just go in there to make sure the connectors to the ACM/APIM are seated properly. Once you remove the ACM, the bracket that holds the APIM is right above it.
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Once the ACM is online - it will have errors about not reaching the other modules.
I frequently get an ACM error that it didn't reach the IPC.
It's likely when I've turned the truck on and immediately into reverse.
Too much going on for the screen and chipset.
But it'll recover just fine.
But it still logs an error in itself.
===ACM DTC U0255:00-28===
Code: U0255 - Lost Communication With Front Display Interface Module
Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Audio Control Module
Freeze Frame #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 60361611 s (Wed Feb 4 19:51:32 2026) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 20281 miles - Total Distance
-ELEC_POE_STAS: Not Received - Electric Power Status
-ING_STAS: Run - Ignition Status
-POW_TOR_STAS: Powerpack On Torque Available - Powerpack Torque Status
-INT_AMB_TEM: 93 °F - Internal Ambient Temperature
-ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 15.0 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage
===END ACM===
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Final Update:
My audio randomly started working again and has been that way for the last few weeks without any issues. The only thing that I did different was put on a trickle charger for awhile so I have no clue if that made any difference.
This whole saga has really broken the trust I have in my Maverick especially given I am out of warranty. I was in a 3 year old car listening to a bluetooth speaker for months because I didn't want to pay thousands to get this thing diagnosed and fixed for something that should absolutely not be breaking.
Was originally planning to wait out the upcoming Ford Fathom since I have always wanted an EV, but decided to shift gears and move into a Tesla Model Y. Hopefully this thread helps anyone in the future!
My audio randomly started working again and has been that way for the last few weeks without any issues. The only thing that I did different was put on a trickle charger for awhile so I have no clue if that made any difference.
This whole saga has really broken the trust I have in my Maverick especially given I am out of warranty. I was in a 3 year old car listening to a bluetooth speaker for months because I didn't want to pay thousands to get this thing diagnosed and fixed for something that should absolutely not be breaking.
Was originally planning to wait out the upcoming Ford Fathom since I have always wanted an EV, but decided to shift gears and move into a Tesla Model Y. Hopefully this thread helps anyone in the future!
Yep, when 12v gets to battery save SOC range certain circuits are subject to computer shedding (turning things off) circuits to prevent voltage dropping below (10.8-11.0v?). I put my noco g5 on my hybrid's jump pins every 3-4 months to charge and optimize my 12v.
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Eh - you had the problem in the On state - so the 12V battery is NOT powering the 12V system anyway at that point. There is no low voltage state and circuits being disabled.
Coincidence.
Battery saver and the radio comes in to play if you are in true Accessory mode, no HVB online, and the 12V battery is powering the radio, and everything.
Eventually you'll get the warning that the 12V system is powering off because the battery is getting low.
There is no Battery saver with radio with the truck off (except on turnoff, key removal, and didn't open door yet - eventually that will cause same reaction as above).
Truck off - radio is off otherwise - no turning circuits off required or done.
That is proved when there has been an issue and parasitic drain from the radio system - it drains the battery, so nothing turned it off. Of course the issue is it was left running by some module.
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