2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation

[JJTech]

Does anyone know if it would be possible to use the F150 ProPower bed outlet panel in the Maverick?
I assume it is too big, without cutting?

EDIT:
Found the part numbers. Indeed, the F150 panel is significantly wider…

F150 Panel:
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/o...ry-power-outlet-battery-charger-p-nl3z19a464b
NL3Z-19A464-B
Dimensions: 14.5 L x 12.5 W x 5.1 H in

Maverick Panel:
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/other-body-related-parts-general/cover-14199565-1
NZ6Z-16N455-B
Dimensions: 11.31 L x 3.06 W x 11.94 H in

I did attach a handy diagram about the different F150 panels I found.

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[JJTech]

Here is the current iteration of my solution. Used a 3D printed mounting bracket in the FITS slot to hold up the inverter, and a 3D printed faceplate with a socket meant for a generator.

Used a 20amp extension cord with both ends cut off, routed to the bed.
I actually left the original bed outlet connected, just zip-tied up under there; otherwise the interior 400W outlet would not work.

Maybe I should have used a normal outdoor outlet, to get 2 sockets in the bed. But I wasn't sure if it would fit.

Thinking about how I could add a switch + status LEDs to the faceplate.

 

[JohnCondren1933]

Running watts, start up would be much higher.

Any AC compressor has a higher startup current than running current.
The way to use an AC with an inverter only rated for the AC running wattage (not 3x higher starting wattage) is to buy a "soft starter" that you plug the AC into, its basically a cheap version of a motor drive which uses precharging capacitor circuitry, it slows down to take 30-50ish miliseconds to precharge before energizing its circuit to the load (the air conditioner here) so there's no instant current inrush (instant high starting current) on the inverter from the compressor.

I think a soft starter for a 1000watt AC is like $40-60 get one for your home fridge too if you want emergency battery backup

 

[JohnCondren1933]

Nothing new to report. I did run it for about a half-hour for some outdoor equipment. The draw was just a bit over the 400 watt inverter built into the truck, but I was busy and didn't have time to do any testing. I also tried to run my dust collector on it, but the surge tripped the inverter. The running wattage is about 1600 watts. I would have guessed the inverter could have handled the starting surge, but it didn't. The inverter manual states it will handle a 4k watt surge. I suspect the surge was less than 4k watts, but it was over 2k for too long. The dust collector does take a while to wind up. At some point I'll test to see what the surge value was and how long it lasts. I just haven't gotten around to it.

The main thing I want to get around to is put a decent load on it and while it is running keep a running log of the 12 volt battery's voltage. I'm curious how low the vehicle lets it drop before the high voltage battery recharges it, or if it is allowed to drop at all. Perhaps the high voltage battery feeds the 12 volt battery continuously. I don't know, so I'm curious.

In short, sorry, no real update.

Anything with a surge or high starting load you should look at running the load through a soft starter, you honestly could just cut the inverter leads to the 120vac receptacles, & wire in a soft starter inline from the leads to the receptacles. Your inverter will last alot longer with heavier loads too. I mean, when the 2000watt inverter is $250 they cut costs somewhere. Just install a $100 soft-starter inline its definitely not gonna hurt

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Any AC compressor has a higher startup current than running current.
The way to use an AC with an inverter only rated for the AC running wattage (not 3x higher starting wattage) is to buy a "soft starter" that you plug the AC into, its basically a cheap version of a motor drive which uses precharging capacitor circuitry, it slows down to take 30-50ish miliseconds to precharge before energizing its circuit to the load (the air conditioner here) so there's no instant current inrush (instant high starting current) on the inverter from the compressor.

I think a soft starter for a 1000watt AC is like $40-60 get one for your home fridge too if you want emergency battery backup

Or just purchase an AC with an inverter and scroll compressor. It will soft start and can have 0 to negligible starting surge.
Understanding Inverter AC Startup

• Variable-Speed Operation:
  Midea inverter ACs use a variable-speed compressor that can throttle its power, rather than a fixed-speed compressor that turns on and off.
  
  
• Soft Start:
  This variable-speed design allows for a slow, gradual ramp-up of power when the unit starts, eliminating the sudden surge of current that fixed-speed compressors create.
  
  
• Efficiency:
  The slow start and variable operation make inverter units much more efficient, using less power overall and extending the lifespan of the compressor.

 

[BlueSpec1]

I've got a couple of inverter air conditioners.
LG is 8000 BTU Dual Inverter Air Conditioner. Nameplate Label is 115V, 8.9Amps.
I watched the amps draw after setting to Cool, Fan speed F3.
It starts with fan at .60 Amps for about 2-1/2 minutes then starts compressor and ramps to 7.3 Amps in about 10 minutes.







My house 3.5 Ton before and with a softstarter. Inrush Amps in 1st second after compressor start.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I've got a couple of inverter air conditioners.
LG is 8000 BTU Dual Inverter Air Conditioner. Nameplate Label is 115V, 8.9Amps.
I watched the amps draw after setting to Cool, Fan speed F3.
It starts with fan at .60 Amps for about 2-1/2 minutes then starts compressor and ramps to 7.3 Amps in about 10 minutes.







My house 3.5 Ton before and with a softstarter. Inrush Amps in 1st second after compressor start.

My 12,000 midea window AC in economy mode runs with 111 watts to about 980 watts depending on how close to set temp it's at, has variable fan speed also. U shape allows window to be shut between compressor and evaporator so about 42-48 decibels. In normal mode it will max out at 1165 watts (including startup) per HF Sav A Watt.

 

[dochawk]

& wire in a soft starter inline from the leads to the receptacles.

When I was a grad student in the mid 90s, one of the computers in a shared office had a sign saying not to turn it off. The hard disk (probably a whopping 40mb, if that) drew too much current starting up, so a tech guy had to come in and hand spin it!

So maybe a pull starter for the compressor?

 

[TedTX]

Too bad the U shaped A/C has been recalled for mold problems

 

[BlueSpec1]

Too bad the U shaped A/C has been recalled for mold problems

My options were to get a kit for better water drain out of the A/C or get some cash back.

 

[TedTX]

You just need to cut the cord and label it. That it is recalled and they send preloaded card or Credit as refund. See Midea website.

 

[JohnCondren1933]

When I was a grad student in the mid 90s, one of the computers in a shared office had a sign saying not to turn it off. The hard disk (probably a whopping 40mb, if that) drew too much current starting up, so a tech guy had to come in and hand spin it!

So maybe a pull starter for the compressor?

A "soft starter" is a generalized name for a "poor man's motor drive". Appliances with high starting current demands will trip breakers & damage inverters, so a soft starter is basically just a big set of precharge capacitors, and a basic controller that waits a couple milliseconds for the precharge-capacitors to charge up, before closing the circuit to your high starting-current appliance. That appliance then uses the charge from the prechaege capacitors for its starting current draw, which cushions the inverter or power-supply from using its own (generally smaller) precharge capacitors.

A soft starter for 120VAC 4000ish watt starting current is in the $90-170 its small with thin wires so easier replace if or when a bad load destroys it than an inverter.

Personally I would rather a separate soft starter than an expensive integrated inverter & soft starter it makes the overall system last longer from easier to replace bad parts, everything fails eventually and an integrated unit generally requires replacing the whole unit.

 

[chiko]

Spamming this to all the "Mav as a generator" threads I know about.

If anyone is interested in how to permanently disable the 30 minute max idle via ForScan (so you don't need to go into the screen menu and disable the max idle every time), I think I figured it out. I will edit this post once I have absolute confirmation.

Interested in your findings.

I have an MY '24 with XLT-Hybrid (not the Lariat) and do NOT have the menu settings as described by OP. I also have ForScan and documented a lot of the settings before changing the seat-belt nannys and found only one hit for IDLE when I searched it (Total Idle Run Time=0).

The owners manual for '24 shows this item on p 164 but its a bit of a mess if its for Hybrid/Ecoboost or something to do with whether you have push-button start.

I have a Harbor Freight 1000W inverter that I want to be useful during disaster recovery (Food-Fridge and I am scoping out a 700W microwave).

EDIT - I found another ForScan setting: Total Idle Run Time Feature Disabled/Enabled in the IPC Instrument panel cluster. Factory mine is set to disable. It is not totally obvious what this might mean but perhaps it turns on a menu item. I will play with it when it warms a bit.

 

[paneubert]

Interested in your findings.

I have an MY '24 with XLT-Hybrid (not the Lariat) and do NOT have the menu settings as described by OP. I also have ForScan and documented a lot of the settings before changing the seat-belt nannys and found only one hit for IDLE when I searched it (Total Idle Run Time=0).

The owners manual for '24 shows this item on p 164 but its a bit of a mess if its for Hybrid/Ecoboost or something to do with whether you have push-button start.

I have a Harbor Freight 1000W inverter that I want to be useful during disaster recovery (Food-Fridge and I am scoping out a 700W microwave).

EDIT - I found another ForScan setting: Total Idle Run Time Feature Disabled/Enabled in the IPC Instrument panel cluster. Factory mine is set to disable. It is not totally obvious what this might mean but perhaps it turns on a menu item. I will play with it when it warms a bit.

I was not successful in the end getting this done in ForScan. If you want to try, it is in the "Police" related ForScan coding. There are codes to (in theory) let it idle forever. This is what the cops want for a quick getaway.

These ones in the BCM......


PoliceDarkCar_Cfg (PDCC) • PoliceIdleFactory_Cfg (PIFC) • PoliceRearDoor_Cfg (PRDC) • TransitVehRear_Cfg (TVRC)



And the IPC......

Fleet Menu Lockout (FML) • ePRNDL e2e Signal Protection (PRNDLSP) • EV Power Gauge (EVPG) • Police Idle Mode (PIM)

 

[BlueSpec1]

I found out my older Xantrex PROwatt 600W inverter I've used in other trucks wouldn't work in my hybrid Maverick. The PROwatt had an Over Voltage Error when the Maverick was Running.
The inverter would only work with the truck Off.
Measured 15.17 volts at the inverter input with the Maverick running.

PROWatt 600 apparently less tolerant than the specs say.

Renogy 2000W:

Hooked up the Renogy 2000W used in this thread and it worked fine.

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