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MakinDoForNow

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From my initial testing, I know the 12 volt battery isn't allowed to drain too far. I doubt it goes below 11 volts at the worst, but I don't know for sure.
Some report 10 or less rather common. Some have reported having 6. They are in DEEP SLEEP!
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paneubert

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He fed his LiFePO4 with 100 amps. He reported after 3 or 4 months that he had "toasted" his LiFePO4 and would build another when he had time. if I remember correctly his was around 700ah.
Edit to add: member was acelee1895
That really surprises me since most LiFePO4 can take a 1C charge rate. Some even advertise that you can charge them at 1.5C. If the guy had a 700A LiFePO4, he should have been able to pump 700A into it. Not that I would ever want to charge a battery at 700A.
 

MakinDoForNow

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That really surprises me since most LiFePO4 can take a 1C charge rate. Some even advertise that you can charge them at 1.5C. If the guy had a 700A LiFePO4, he should have been able to pump 700A into it. Not that I would ever want to charge a battery at 700A.
I would have to read it again as it's been well over a year. In any case he had assembled the battery and I believe he suspected that he had not secured the cells adequately and suffered from that. I will look for it in a day or two.
Edit to add: maybe he was at 2C? Having trouble today with details. Come to think about it I have not had any Brazil Nuts for two or three days...... Dang it!
 

paneubert

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I would have to read it again as it's been well over a year. In any case he had assembled the battery and I believe he suspected that he had not secured the cells adequately and suffered from that. I will look for it in a day or two.
Edit to add: maybe he was at 2C? Having trouble today with details. Come to think about it I have not had any Brazil Nuts for two or three days...... Dang it!
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...attery-installed-in-my-hybrid-maverick.33773/

Haven't read it yet, but that seems to be the thread.

Edit: If it is the thread you were thinking of, it was a 72 AH battery.
 

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Here is information on my removable inverter installation and results. My vehicle is a MY24 Lariat with remote start and lux' package, but I suspect XL and XLT vehicles will work similarly.

I originally made this post here, but I thought a search for inverter installations might return better results if I made this a post of its own.

Parts Used:
Usage Notes:
  • Turn on vehicle into ready state (foot on break when starting)
    • Turn off lights
    • Turn off air conditioning or heater
    • Turn off heated seats and/or steering wheel
    • Turn off any other powered accessories as able
    • Open vehicle menu
    • Go to Settings
    • Go to Vehicle
    • Uncheck "30 min. max idle"
      • Keys must be left in vehicle or this will automatically cancel in about 20 minutes and vehicle will shut off
      • I tested a 1750 watt load for about an hour and and a no load for about a half hour, so I expect this inverter setup will work until the vehicle runs out of gas
  • With an approximate 1750 watt continuous load
    • The internal combustion engine (ICE) will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 3 minutes off
    • Running this cycle for over an hour, the inverter got only slightly warm and the cables remained cool
  • With no load except for the inverter idle power consumption
    • The ICE will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 20 minutes off
  • I tried some lesser loads, like 2 incandescent bulbs and a blow dryer on low
    • The cycle was about 3 minutes with the ICE running and 12 minutes off
  • I didn't use the cables that came with the inverter
    • I used this wiring size calculator to determine my cable requirements
    • You'll note in the image that my cables are much longer than needed to sit the inverter on the seat or floor, so I'll be shortening them a foot or two soon to reduce the voltage drop and increase efficiency
My expected uses for this setup is to supply occasional power to appliances during an extended power outage, to supply power for my wood working tools (lathe, drill, grinder, etc.) when doing demos and craft shows where AC power is not available, and possibly when car camping. Thus, I didn't want to make a permanent installation of the inverter behind or under the seat. Having it sit on top the back seat or on the floor is fine. I'll store the inverter, with the cables and quick-connect attached) in the closet until I need it.

PS. I don't have any device or combinationof devices that I intend to power that has a full load draw over 1000 watts.

PPS. Image file added.

PPPS. Cables shortened to about two feet. Inverter now needs to sit on the floorboards.

Inverter Installation (sm).jpg
Ive got the same plug made with thick copper wire, lugs, and an Anderson connecter. But when I went to pull the leads off the battery the bolts would not come all the way off. How did you remedy that?
 
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TimeOutside

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Ive got the same plug made with thick copper wire, lugs, and an Anderson connecter. But when I went to pull the leads off the battery the bolts would not come all the way off. How did you remedy that?
I was able to attach the cables without removing the battery or the cabling attached to the battery terminals. Is that what you are asking?
 
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I was able to attach the cables without removing the battery or the cabling attached to the battery terminals. Is that what you are asking?
Exactly - I was unable to access that bolt on my 2024 Mav HYB when removing the battery cover.And even struggled to remove the terminal covers.

Currently using alligator clamps, but am hesitant to run larger loads with them.
 
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TimeOutside

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And even struggled to remove the terminal covers.

Currently using alligator clamps, but am hesitant to run larger loads with them.
Yeah, the terminal covers was a royal pain.

You don't want to use alligator clamps, since you are taking the load away after the battery management sensor. That's not good.

Can you post pictures of what you've got?
 
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Yeah, the terminal covers was a royal pain.

You don't want to use alligator clamps, since you are taking the load away after the battery management sensor. That's not good.

Can you post pictures of what you've got?
This is where I am at. Do you happen to know that nut size for the bolt you used on the positive terminal. Ive tried a couple and have concerns of cross threading.
Ford Maverick 2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation Screen Shot 2024-12-12 at 6.37.28 PM




Ford Maverick 2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation Screen Shot 2024-12-12 at 6.37.14 PM
 
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TimeOutside

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This is where I am at. Do you happen to know that nut size for the bolt you used on the positive terminal. Ive tried a couple and have concerns of cross threading.
I don't recall. But tomorrow I may have time to look, or at least get you something helpful. If not, I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
 
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I don't recall. But tomorrow I may have time to look, or at least get you something helpful. If not, I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Ive gathered its 5/16 nut. But I think I was using the 6 instead of the 8. So Im going to run to my local hardware store and seeif that solves the promblem.
 

Jpalmer1

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@TimeOutside, for a 3k version of your install, when you say “Cabling would be impractical at best.”, is that because of the gauge? No space for it? Not pliable enough to route. Something else?
 
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TimeOutside

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@TimeOutside, for a 3k version of your install, when you say “Cabling would be impractical at best.”, is that because of the gauge? No space for it? Not pliable enough to route. Something else?
Primarily size and pliability. With a 2000 watt inverter we will be pulling 167 amps (2000 watts divided by 12 volts) and 250 amps with surge. For a 1 meter length and an allowed 1% voltage drop, we need a 2/0 AWG cable. That's a 0.26" diameter cable. Some 2/0 welding cable is fairly flexible and works well. For 3000 watts you should probably get 0000 cable to accommodate surge. That has a 0.46" diameter.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but in my mind it would be impractical.
 

Jpalmer1

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Wow! Ok. That is some big cable. THANK YOU.
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