DIY Video: 2.5 Hybrid Maverick Oil Change

[sprubs]

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/very-very-poor-job-on-recall.19893/

woah. so are these holes going to be part of the design on the 2023s or did they actually get to the root of the problem and fix that?

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[DanMav1701]

Great video. And love the profile pic at the beautiful Corona Ranch.

 

[Shay]

....And love the profile pic at the beautiful Corona Ranch.

Good eye.

 

[wax87]

This is certainly not the first oil change video or tutorial out there, but it's my first oil change on our long-term test hybrid along with other major first service maintenance items.

Did you do an oil analysis? how are these engines broken in? Shouldn't the 1st oil change be performed way earlier?

 

[Timothyd]

This is certainly not the first oil change video or tutorial out there, but it's my first oil change on our long-term test hybrid along with other major first service maintenance items.

Do you check that soldered 12v connection that gives all the trouble?

 

[Shay]

Do you check that soldered 12v connection that gives all the trouble?

No. Not having issues.

 

[MaverickTopGun]

Did you do an oil analysis? how are these engines broken in? Shouldn't the 1st oil change be performed way earlier?

If he was to do an oil analysis, it would show excess iron debris floating around in there. I've seen many engine UOA's where it is anywhere from 3 to 8 times the level that is considered normal. UOAs from the last 10 years to the present, on newer engines, modern day. Factory lapping machines do not polish the surfaces down to the ideal Ra (roughness average) of about 10 microinches. Break-in happens on new engines.

Since it's a new engine, it can withstand that extra wear with no outwardly visible signs yet.

Break-in: https://www.[banned site].com/threads/recommended-breakin-process-for-maverick.2711/#post-26088

According to Ford, your engine will be fine just changing the oil out when the OLM dash light says to. This is true. A new engine can handle a lot. It should make it through the warranty period OK.

If you're one of those folks who take extra care:
Insist on using a 0w-20 that meets both Ford WSS-M2C962-A1 & MB 229.71, the best set of tests. Change factory-fill oil out at 1,000 miles. ........ Use an over-sized Fram XG3600 or similar Amsoil EAO34 oil filter for finer filtering and longevity. .........Put on a GoldPlug AP-04 M12-1.75 neodymium magnet drain plug to catch some iron dust, with a copper or aluminum crush washer changed at every oil change. ....... Change oil 20% before the Oil Life Monitor goes to full-on Red Alert.

The video gets points for filling the new oil filter with some oil, and the use of a Fram Ultra XG3614, although he could have used an over-size XG3600 for the same price, better filtering, better longevity, fewer bypass events.

The video loses points for not saying what the Drain Plug Torque should be ( 21 lb-ft ).
Also for not saying the oil needs to have WSS-M2C962-A1 printed somewhere on the jug or bottle to preserve the engine warranty.

 

[sprubs]

assuming I ever acquire this vehicle I'll likely be doing my own oil changes b/c that's how I roll. I've never seen the filling the oil filter before installation thing. It certainly wouldn't hurt to do it but I question how necessary it really is and how likely I would be to just accidentally dump oil everywhere as I try to install the new filter on the truck. On my Subaru this this would be nearly impossible to do b/c the filter is inverted so I'd dump oil everywhere trying to put it on.

If I can get a valve of some kind I may install that in place of the drain plug. I really like this on my current ride. It allows me to put a hose on there and drain right into an empty 5qt oil container.

 

[Last Truck Ever]

I hope somebody aftermarkets a skid plate replacement that doesn't use 752 screws.

 

[wax87]

If he was to do an oil analysis, it would show excess iron debris floating around in there. I've seen many engine UOA's where it is anywhere from 3 to 8 times the level that is considered normal. UOAs from the last 10 years to the present, on newer engines, modern day. Factory lapping machines do not polish the surfaces down to the ideal Ra (roughness average) of about 10 microinches. Break-in happens on new engines.

Since it's a new engine, it can withstand that extra wear with no outwardly visible signs yet.

Break-in: https://www.[banned site].com/threads/recommended-breakin-process-for-maverick.2711/#post-26088

According to Ford, your engine will be fine just changing the oil out when the OLM dash light says to. This is true. A new engine can handle a lot. It should make it through the warranty period OK.

If you're one of those folks who take extra care:
Insist on using a 0w-20 that meets both Ford WSS-M2C962-A1 & MB 229.71, the best set of tests. Change factory-fill oil out at 1,000 miles. ........ Use an over-sized Fram XG3600 or similar Amsoil EAO34 oil filter for finer filtering and longevity. .........Put on a GoldPlug AP-04 M12-1.75 neodymium magnet drain plug to catch some iron dust, with a copper or aluminum crush washer changed at every oil change. ....... Change oil 20% before the Oil Life Monitor goes to full-on Red Alert.

The video gets points for filling the new oil filter with some oil, and the use of a Fram Ultra XG3614, although he could have used an over-size XG3600 for the same price, better filtering, better longevity, fewer bypass events.

The video loses points for not saying what the Drain Plug Torque should be ( 21 lb-ft ).
Also for not saying the oil needs to have WSS-M2C962-A1 printed somewhere on the jug or bottle to preserve the engine warranty.

Thank you, I would assume the 1st oil change needs to be around 1K miles. Lots of Foreign matter can be in there. Not just metal shavings from breaking but gasket sealer’s all sorts of stuff.

 

[MaverickTopGun]

Thank you, I would assume the 1st oil change needs to be around 1K miles. Lots of Foreign matter can be in there. Not just metal shavings from breaking but gasket sealer’s all sorts of stuff.

On the break-in process, I recommend the following information, from a reference source:

1. First 1,000 miles, don't go over 4,000 RPM, as a general rule.
2. Don't lug the engine (low RPM, high torque) for more than 5 seconds at a time.
3. Vary speeds a bit, like slowly vary the gas pedal as traffic allows, to get different RPM & Load variations. Just light variances, as in +/- 5 mph over 10 seconds is enough, avoiding periods of steady RPM & load of more than 20 seconds at a time. Traffic safety may not permit this though.

This gets the rings to twist to varied positions in their seats and self-polishes the curved ring surfaces evenly where they mate to the cylinder walls.

Yes, wear surface polishing does occur on new engines in the first 1,000 miles, even in 2022, where factory lapping (polishing) does not quite get surface asperities Ra down low enough to the optimal range of around 10 to 20 micro-inches. ..... Racing engines get a better original polish at build time, yes, but not ours. .... This creates extra free-floating tiny metal particles in the motor oil that it is nice to flush out in the first 1,000 miles or so.

Oil filter gets junk out down to about 30 microns, leaving very small particles contacting bearing surfaces during cold starts & normal running boundary lubrication (non-hydrodynamic conditions are always present to some extent in a running engine). A magnetic drain plug like the GoldPlug neodymium AP-04 gets out some of the fine iron dust.

Honda-Acura, Toyota-Lexus, and Mazda have long recommended using high-moly motor oils during break-in to help wear-in the surfaces more gradually, without chunking out the peaks of the asperities as much. Other engine makers never seem to mention or care about it.

 

[Peps]

I am surprised you had to top off the cooling system with coolant. I believe they do not come up to their max level out of the factory.
I guess you had some available so why not...

 

[Hkak45]

On my Subaru this this would be nearly impossible to do b/c the filter is inverted so I'd dump oil everywhere trying to put it on.

Subaru boxer engine with the filter on top would not need it done because of the design of the engine and oil sump in it. I miss my Subaru with that design it made oil changes so easy and clean since no oil in filter. Mix that with a Fumoto oil drain plug and *muahh chef's kiss* perfection

 

[wax87]

On the break-in process, I recommend the following information, from a reference source:

1. First 1,000 miles, don't go over 4,000 RPM, as a general rule.
2. Don't lug the engine (low RPM, high torque) for more than 5 seconds at a time.
3. Vary speeds a bit, like slowly vary the gas pedal as traffic allows, to get different RPM & Load variations. Just light variances, as in +/- 5 mph over 10 seconds is enough, avoiding periods of steady RPM & load of more than 20 seconds at a time. Traffic safety may not permit this though.

This gets the rings to twist to varied positions in their seats and self-polishes the curved ring surfaces evenly where they mate to the cylinder walls.

Yes, wear surface polishing does occur on new engines in the first 1,000 miles, even in 2022, where factory lapping (polishing) does not quite get surface asperities Ra down low enough to the optimal range of around 10 to 20 micro-inches. ..... Racing engines get a better original polish at build time, yes, but not ours. .... This creates extra free-floating tiny metal particles in the motor oil that it is nice to flush out in the first 1,000 miles or so.

Oil filter gets junk out down to about 30 microns, leaving very small particles contacting bearing surfaces during cold starts & normal running boundary lubrication (non-hydrodynamic conditions are always present to some extent in a running engine). A magnetic drain plug like the GoldPlug neodymium AP-04 gets out some of the fine iron dust.

Honda-Acura, Toyota-Lexus, and Mazda have long recommended using high-moly motor oils during break-in to help wear-in the surfaces more gradually, without chunking out the peaks of the asperities as much. Other engine makers never seem to mention or care about it.

4000 rpm may not obtainable in a hybrid lol

 

[Hardening2753]

This is certainly not the first oil change video or tutorial out there, but it's my first oil change on our long-term test hybrid along with other major first service maintenance items.

Great video! I really appreciate what you're doing for the community my posting how-to videos

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