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Darnon

Darnon

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How was the improvement over stock using that Kicker key amp? After looking at the diagrams I didnt realize only half the speakers are using the B&O amp. I wonder if swapping the front doors and tweeters how it would sound if swapped with a component set using the crossovers wired into the B&O amp.
I installed the Kicker Key at the same time as the speakers so I can't really speak to how either sounds on their own with the stock components. With the Kicker EQ turned off the JBLs were a little on the light side and the auto-tuning makes them satisfactorily more substantial. Then again I didn't mess around with trying to tune them using the HU EQ, but that might only muck up the already beleaguered center channel (the stock unit particularly doesn't like boosting midrange).

Are you proposing joining the fronts on the B&O front channel and adding the rears to it as well? The obvious issue there is you would lose fader control unless there's some value in the APIM one could configure with Forscan to make it F&R compatible.
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Superchunk

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I wish there was a way to experience a "good" sound system. I have just the stock sound system and to me it sounds great. I have no clue what I'm missing out on.
Personally I'm confused by the many complaints about the stereo. I have the non-b&o and with +2 bass, +1 mid and -1 treble I'm pretty happy with it. I'll be upgrading to an active dsp system eventually, but for now I think it sounds pretty good.

And I am an audiophile, my home system is worth more than a lariat lux.
 

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I don't hate the B&O set up by any means. It's not the greatest but does just fine for me. The days of making all the neighbors' windows rattle when I drive past were over some 20 years ago. Also, I never did that :)
 

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I installed the Kicker Key at the same time as the speakers so I can't really speak to how either sounds on their own with the stock components. With the Kicker EQ turned off the JVCs were a little on the light side and the auto-tuning makes them satisfactorily more substantial. Then again I didn't mess around with trying to tune them using the HU EQ, but that might only muck up the already beleaguered center channel (the stock unit particularly doesn't like boosting midrange).

Are you proposing joining the fronts on the B&O front channel and adding the rears to it as well? The obvious issue there is you would lose fader control unless there's some value in the APIM one could configure with Forscan to make it F&R compatible.
I was wondering how the kicker key was power wise to the B&O amp. seems a little light at 200w. But if the power and EQ range is cleaner from it Im sure its worth it. Its been a few years since Ive messed with car audio. I traded my Porsche Macan with the upgraded Burmester audio for the Maverick so I am missing the audio from that car.

I was suggesting replacing the front doors and dash tweeters with a proper component set in factory locations. Then using the crossovers for the component system still amped with the B&O amp wired separately as they are now. So using 4 crossovers. Some component systems I see will come 4 cossovers to clean up the freq response.

These for example: Focal Performance PS 165V1 include 4 crossovers.
 

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I have to say that the factory sound system is pretty good, but there is always room for improvement. I replaced all the speakers with Infinity Reference and added sound deadening in the front doors. It is better, but not a world of difference.

This is after I had tried some Timpanos because they had big magnets, no huge magnets. I thought maybe they would be good. I did ask around for frequency response charts but no-one had tested them, even the manufacturer and parts express where I bought them. When I put them in, they sounded awful so I removed them immediately and tested the frequency response. They were the the very definition of one note wonders. They had range from about 500 to 1000 hz and played those notes loudly. They make marvelous paper weights on my desk right now.

The front tweeters are wired directly to the head unit which has crossovers built into it, so I left out the crossovers that came with the Infinity component speakers. Adding wiring from the door to the dash is more work than I am willing to do and it is questionable whether it would benefit the system. Both the tweeters in the factory system and the Infinity's image very well any difference would be personal preference. They work well with the factory crossover. Any changes

The rear speakers are crossed over as well. They have the bass cut off around 150 hz. The Infinities are crystal clear. The factory speakers were a little muddled.

The Infinity door speakers definitely have more bass response than the factory ones. I measured the frequency response flat down to 40 hz and the factory amp can push the speaker to the point where the entire door is vibrating without distortion. It all sounds very good.
 
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I was wondering how the kicker key was power wise to the B&O amp. seems a little light at 200w. But if the power and EQ range is cleaner from it Im sure its worth it. Its been a few years since Ive messed with car audio. I traded my Porsche Macan with the upgraded Burmester audio for the Maverick so I am missing the audio from that car.
As far as power it's a sufficient match for the JBLs I'm using. About equivalent to the stock system which is good since it means I don't need to do anything complicated to balance the levels. Contrary to impressions I didn't upgrade for the aim of maximum loudness except perhaps on the subwoofer side; even then it's only 500w max.

In theory the Kicker Key in bi-amp mode tunes the woofer hi-pass/tweeter lo-pass semi-independently so similar to the 4 crossovers of the Focal you mention. If you want more tweakability than that I suppose one could go with a directly programmable DSP amp.

Someone even more inclined to tinker and a deeper budget might probably be better served trying routing it all through the ZEN-A2B and hand off to a 4+ channel DSP.
 

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Turns out it was a bad speaker. They come in pairs so I swapped it with the other one and no issues unless I turn it up full blast.
Im still not satisfied with these cdt audio 6x9s. Still getting popping especially songs with extended deep bass. Starting to think they can't handle the wattage from the b&o amp. They are 125 rms and I think the amp is pushing out 150 to the sub.
 

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Personally I'm confused by the many complaints about the stereo. I have the non-b&o and with +2 bass, +1 mid and -1 treble I'm pretty happy with it. I'll be upgrading to an active dsp system eventually, but for now I think it sounds pretty good.

And I am an audiophile, my home system is worth more than a lariat lux.
Well...I adjusted my setting to yours and played Mozart's serenade to winds, which is my favorite track for testing speakers for highs/instumental clarity.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...z40FegQIBxAH&usg=AOvVaw02gAXSDswPBmPlHLJX63z0

And surprisedly, the base stereo in my xlt sounded pretty damn good! There are some highs in that tract which cause great distress to cheap speakers, but these had no obvious distortion or outright failure🤪. I'll play a variety of tracts and report back later with these settings. Maybe your settings are perfect for these speakers!
 

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I have to say that the factory sound system is pretty good, but there is always room for improvement. I replaced all the speakers with Infinity Reference and added sound deadening in the front doors. It is better, but not a world of difference.

This is after I had tried some Timpanos because they had big magnets, no huge magnets. I thought maybe they would be good, I did ask around for frequency response charts but noone had tested them, even the manufacturer and parts express where I bought them. When I put them in they sounded awful so I removed them immediately and tested the frequency response They were the the very definition of one note wonders. They had range from about 500 to 1000 hz and played those notes loudly. They make marvelous paper weights on my desk right now.

The front tweeters are wired directly to the head unit which has crossovers built into it, so I left out the crossovers that came with the Infinity component speakers. Adding wiring from the door to the dash is more work than I am willing to do and it is questionable whether it would benefit the system. Both the tweeters in the factory system and the Infinity's image very well any difference would be personal preference. They work well with the factory crossover. Any changes

The rear speakers are crossed over as well. They have the bass cut off around 150 hz. The Infinities are crystal clear. The factory speakers were a little muddled.

The Infinity door speakers definitely have more bass response than the factory ones. I measured the frequency response flat down to 40 hz and the factory amp can push the speaker to the point where the entire door is vibrating without distortion. It all sounds very good.
Which model infinities did you use? And it sounds like they were generally plug and play and you used the Ford crossovers for all speakers? I'm a big fan of infinity especially with their high sensitivity which produces a lot of sound with low power head units!

Thanks!
 
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I was REALLY into car audio 15-20yrs ago, constantly changing components in my car and spending most weekends working on systems in friends' cars. A car is a terrible environment for sound, which is why I really don't care at this point. The stock base audio in the Maverick is not great (although better than the base audio in my VW jetta), but it doesn't really change the experience for my family; we'll still rock out when one of my kids' favorite songs comes on. I suspect the B&O system is a little louder with some semblance of lower range, but otherwise not much better. The upgraded Revel Ultima system in my buddy's Lincoln Navigator is pretty good, but absurdly expensive for what you get - I could think of thousands of better ways I'd rather spend an extra $7k.

Unless you spend a ton of time in the car or are a true audiophile. I suggest not going down the rabbit hole.
Exactly with all the road noise and other extraneous not worth doing it in my opinion. If you want to do a modest upgrade sure but to spend thousands is crazy.
 

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Well...I adjusted my setting to yours and played Mozart's serenade to winds, which is my favorite track for testing speakers for highs/instumental clarity.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi-HF1G_bqg&ved=2ahUKEwj5rJCl-9X5AhXipokEHU-oC8IQz40FegQIBxAH&usg=AOvVaw02gAXSDswPBmPlHLJX63z0

And surprisedly, the base stereo in my xlt sounded pretty damn good! There are some highs in that tract which cause great distress to cheap speakers, but these had no obvious distortion or outright failure🤪. I'll play a variety of tracts and report back later with these settings. Maybe your settings are perfect for these speakers!
Cool glad it helped. I find them perfectly decent because with those settings there's no obvious annoyances or terrible additions. It's not like it sounds amazing but I can listen without feeling irritated which has always been my standard for playback. My threshold changes depending on the intention (critical listening vs singing along in the car is very different) but being irritated out of enjoyment is always the issue to be solved. I don't find myself irritated out of enjoyment which is a solid thing for an inexpensive car imo. I'm in no huge hurry to install my dsp, sub and new speakers.
 

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Cool glad it helped. I find them perfectly decent because with those settings there's no obvious annoyances or terrible additions. It's not like it sounds amazing but I can listen without feeling irritated which has always been my standard for playback. My threshold changes depending on the intention (critical listening vs singing along in the car is very different) but being irritated out of enjoyment is always the issue to be solved. I don't find myself irritated out of enjoyment which is a solid thing for an inexpensive car imo. I'm in no huge hurry to install my dsp, sub and new speakers.
Good point. When we had our XL, our second car was a Genesis with their Lexicon system. You could jump in and out of the two and the quality difference was obvious, but I didn't find the XL to be offensive sounding as I have in some other cars (looking at you, Toyota Corolla).

Now we have an Acura with their 16-speaker ELS Studio 3D system that I'm sure will embarrass the B&O in the Lariat, but I'm sure it will be just fine.
 

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Which model infinities did you use? And it sounds like they were generally plug and play and you used the Ford crossovers for all speakers? I'm a big fan of infinity especially with their high sensitivity which produces a lot of sound with low power head units!

Thanks!
I used the reference 6.5 components in the front and 4" coax in the rear. It is not plug and play but an adapter plate and metra adapters and it is easy. If you can get the door panel off then you should be able to install the speakers.
 

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I used the reference 6.5 components in the front and 4" coax in the rear. It is not plug and play but an adapter plate and metra adapters and it is easy. If you can get the door panel off then you should be able to install the speakers.
Are these the models and we're they from crutchfield?

Infinity-Reference-REF-6530cx

Infinity-Reference-REF-4032cfx

And can you tell me the adaptor plate and metra adaptor models? Thanks so much for the help 😉. They want $150 to install just speakers at a shop and not so much the cost, but I'd prefer to do the installation myself as I'm concerned they would break panels and or clips during the installation and say nothing about it until I discover it myself later with rattling noises, etc. And the shop denying they did anything wrong.
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