Is 4k Towing Package Worth It

[GmanGM]

I am interested in the 4K towing package, I want to buy a 17 foot Casita camper. The dry weight is 2,780 lbs., all options. Hitch weight 280 lbs. I believe the time you load it up that's gling to be close to the max. Any thoughts?

I have same concerns- I did tow a boat that I guess exceeded it but 1) it was on flat hwy, 2) it has a pointy end vs a flat wind catching front end- I think its the wind surface and any hills/mountains that are the biggest concerns ( the 4k+ boat/trailer was no problem on the flat hwy , but thats not a fair comparison)

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[Gray Goose]

I didn't get 4K. I got the standard receiver to a mount bed extender.
My reasons:
I can politely decline anyone asking me to tow their boat/RV etc.
If ever I needed to tow that much, I'd rent a larger vehicle and tell them to do the same.

 

[Maverick Hopeful]

I guess the bigger question is how much does the extra cooling on the 4k matter? I live in PHX AZ area so it's obviously very hot. Also considering heat in the equation of whether to get a hybrid or EB.

 

[ejouie]

I guess the bigger question is how much does the extra cooling on the 4k matter? I live in PHX AZ area so it's obviously very hot. Also considering heat in the equation of whether to get a hybrid or EB.

Hybrid will keep the A/C on during the stop/start. If you are moving down the highway at speed, the cooling system is a lot less stressed.

 

[Maverick Hopeful]

Hybrid will keep the A/C on during the stop/start. If you are moving down the highway at speed, the cooling system is a lot less stressed.

Ohh I'm.sorry. I meant cooling in regards to the transmission.

 

[notfast]

Thank you for this post. It's been a real headache working with the dealerships on pricing and packages. I keep hopping between EB and Hybrid and package vs no package.

The luxury package seems like but I could care less about heated seats or remote start. The only nice thing is the upgraded steering wheel but I can buy a aftermarket steering wheel cover.

4k towing keeps being mentioned as a "must have" and the only reason I am considering it is for the extra cooling, if it matters. I will never tow anything. This truck is strictly for throwing stuff in the back when needed and commuting everywhere. I work remotely, so I don't even drive to work.

Co-op 360 - again one of those nice to haves. The blind spot monitors would be nice I guess, but I've driven 24 years without them and have been fine.

It's just a tough decision. I'm getting otd prices for XLT Hybrid AWD models with 4k towing and co-op 360 for around 39k. Not sure if that's good or bad or if I should just save a few thousand and nix them both.

The questions I'd ask yourself are:

1. Do you need AWD?
2. Does fuel economy matter a lot?
   1. And by extension, does cruising range matter a lot?

That'll narrow the field a lot. To me, it sounds like you should get an XL or XLT hybrid, decide on AWD, and skip everything else because it adds no value to you.

Dunno if you'd be willing to travel out of state, but Corwin Ford in Reno, NV has some deals going on. Here's an XLT hybrid AWD with CP360 and conventional spare for $31,400
https://www.corwinfordreno.com/inve...averick-xlt-awd-supercrew®-3fttw8j38tra61541/

And an XL hybrid AWD with 2k hitch and conventional spare for $28,303
https://www.corwinfordreno.com/inve...averick-xl-awd-4d-crew-cab-3fttw8b38tra98149/

As for inflator kit vs. mini spare vs. conventional spare. Inflator kit is standard on EcoBoosts and Hybrid AWD, mini spare is standard on hybrid FWD, and conventional spare is standard on 4K tow (all trims), FX4, and Tremor, and is otherwise a freestanding option on all trims.

If you find the perfect truck except it doesn't have a spare, it can be added aftermarket. The spare tire carrier is $300 or so from the parts department and the spare itself is $150 or so on eBay. I'm sure you could negotiate that into the deal too (either get another $450 off the price, or get a rider saying they'll order and install the carrier and spare).

And no you cannot say for 100% you will not use it, unless you have a crystal ball. Life changes sorry but that's part of living. Take a good look at several threads and posts in the past on this site. Several asking to add components to be able to tow over 2k, several more upgrading to another vehicle because their circumstances have changed.

Okay I'm not saying yours will change I am saying it's better to be prepared if it does.

This goes back to what I mentioned earlier about drawing a line in the sand at some point. If @Maverick Hopeful could afford to change vehicles if life circumstances change, then why pay now for capability that may never be used?

I was helping a neighbor buy a car and was really trying to convince him to get the AWD variant, partly for safety, partly for resale, partly for "better to have it and not need it". He got FWD because he said he's never going to the snow, never going off road, and doesn't want the maintenance and repairs. He has like 100k miles on the car and never once said that he wished it was AWD.

What I really want is not a Maverick but a Toyota Sienna LE hybrid AWD. That'll future-proof me for any realistic life change I can think of. But for the same price, I could either get a new Maverick XL hybrid AWD 4K tow, or a Sienna LE hybrid AWD with 70,000 miles on it.

Or if I wanted new, that Sienna is $10k more than a Maverick. Yes the Sienna has a lot more standard equipment, but it's usually just me and my lunch driving to work. Don't need 7 extra seats and 3 climate zones for that.

I suppose if I really wanted to future-proof myself, I should get an F-250 with the XL Off Road package in case the Central Valley floods and I need to drive on roads under two feet of standing water again.

 

[Manollo3]

I have same concerns- I did tow a boat that I guess exceeded it but 1) it was on flat hwy, 2) it has a pointy end vs a flat wind catching front end- I think its the wind surface and any hills/mountains that are the biggest concerns ( the 4k+ boat/trailer was no problem on the flat hwy , but thats not a fair comparison)

The wind surface would not be a concern for me as long as you keep your speed down. Nowadays everyone think it is a great idea to cruise down the Interstate at +70 mpg with a trailer behind the truck.

 

[Maverick Hopeful]

The questions I'd ask yourself are:

1. Do you need AWD?
2. Does fuel economy matter a lot?
   1. And by extension, does cruising range matter a lot?

That'll narrow the field a lot. To me, it sounds like you should get an XL or XLT hybrid, decide on AWD, and skip everything else because it adds no value to you.

Dunno if you'd be willing to travel out of state, but Corwin Ford in Reno, NV has some deals going on. Here's an XLT hybrid AWD with CP360 and conventional spare for $31,400
https://www.corwinfordreno.com/inventory/new-2026-ford-maverick-xlt-awd-supercrew®-3fttw8j38tra61541/

And an XL hybrid AWD with 2k hitch and conventional spare for $28,303
https://www.corwinfordreno.com/inve...averick-xl-awd-4d-crew-cab-3fttw8b38tra98149/

As for inflator kit vs. mini spare vs. conventional spare. Inflator kit is standard on EcoBoosts and Hybrid AWD, mini spare is standard on hybrid FWD, and conventional spare is standard on 4K tow (all trims), FX4, and Tremor, and is otherwise a freestanding option on all trims.

If you find the perfect truck except it doesn't have a spare, it can be added aftermarket. The spare tire carrier is $300 or so from the parts department and the spare itself is $150 or so on eBay. I'm sure you could negotiate that into the deal too (either get another $450 off the price, or get a rider saying they'll order and install the carrier and spare).



This goes back to what I mentioned earlier about drawing a line in the sand at some point. If @Maverick Hopeful could afford to change vehicles if life circumstances change, then why pay now for capability that may never be used?

I was helping a neighbor buy a car and was really trying to convince him to get the AWD variant, partly for safety, partly for resale, partly for "better to have it and not need it". He got FWD because he said he's never going to the snow, never going off road, and doesn't want the maintenance and repairs. He has like 100k miles on the car and never once said that he wished it was AWD.

What I really want is not a Maverick but a Toyota Sienna LE hybrid AWD. That'll future-proof me for any realistic life change I can think of. But for the same price, I could either get a new Maverick XL hybrid AWD 4K tow, or a Sienna LE hybrid AWD with 70,000 miles on it.

Or if I wanted new, that Sienna is $10k more than a Maverick. Yes the Sienna has a lot more standard equipment, but it's usually just me and my lunch driving to work. Don't need 7 extra seats and 3 climate zones for that.

I suppose if I really wanted to future-proof myself, I should get an F-250 with the XL Off Road package in case the Central Valley floods and I need to drive on roads under two feet of standing water again.

1. Do you need AWD? I would say yes. There is a chance I may move back to the Midwest and be in very cold and snowy conditions.
2. Does fuel economy matter a lot?
   1. And by extension, does cruising range matter a lot? I would say fuel economy always matters but I'm not someone who will put a ton of miles on per year. Maybe 7-8k a year tops?

I pretty much decided the lux package isn't needed for me. The heated seats would be nice if I moved to a cold area, but I'm not concerned about not having it.

Co-op 360 seems ok but it seems like the truck comes standard with some nice tech already.

4k towing - is my big hangup between the hybrid and EB 2.0. The online discourse around the Ecoboost transmission not being great has made me pause a bit. But the EBs can be found for much cheaper than hybrids in general.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

4k towing - is my big hangup between the hybrid and EB 2.0. The online discourse around the Ecoboost transmission not being great has made me pause a bit.

Really? I think there's a LOT more discourse regarding the Hybrid electrical concerns, such as deep sleep, than there are about the EB 8-speed trans. With your low yearly usage, the Hybrid mpg doesn't really come into play.

HRG

 

[tom_tucker]

I park my 2WD Maverick all winter long. I would never go in the snow or travel to the mountains with FWD!

 

[ejouie]

Ohh I'm.sorry. I meant cooling in regards to the transmission.

Still a valid point. The stop start comes on every time you start the vehicle so you would have to turn it off every time. I bet that interior gets hot pretty quick in your area.

I think the cooling systems are the same 4k or not on the hybrid from MY25 and up. They all use the same HF55 transmission which has an internal system.

 

[Blue_Max]

I guess the bigger question is how much does the extra cooling on the 4k matter? I live in PHX AZ area so it's obviously very hot. Also considering heat in the equation of whether to get a hybrid or EB.

I doubt anyone has done a scientific comparison.

Qualitatively, I'd look at it this way. Do you keep vehicles for a long time, or switch after a year or two? Additional cooling is the kind of thing to help with vehicle longevity. If you're going to dump your Maverick before the warranty is up, what do you care about longevity?

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

I doubt anyone has done a scientific comparison.

Qualitatively, I'd look at it this way. Do you keep vehicles for a long time, or switch after a year or two? Additional cooling is the kind of thing to help with vehicle longevity. If you're going to dump your Maverick before the warranty is up, what do you care about longevity?

Honestly, I wish more people that have ScanGauge's or similar data acquisition equipment would jump in here.

As my profile indicates, I have a 2024 Tremor, which by most accounts, has a smaller radiator than the 4K-equipped models. Before my recent trip to CO to drive up/down Pikes Peak, I installed a ScanGauge3 in order to monitor cooling & trans temps. Neither going up the mountian, or coming down using "L" (which pretty much locked the trans in 3rd gear) , did the temps ever rise above the readings I saw in the 1000 mile trip out there, neither one ever exceeding 196(F). The temp in Denver that day was in the mid-80's.

IMO, the need for "extra" cooling in a non-towing application may be unwarranted. Again, hopefully others with monitoring equipment will chime in with what they see on a daily basis.

HRG

 

[GmanGM]

The wind surface would not be a concern for me as long as you keep your speed down. Nowadays everyone think it is a great idea to cruise down the Interstate at +70 mpg with a trailer behind the truck.

I differ in that it’s a concern even if ultimately it’s not a stopper after testing. I did research even on this same forum, others have pointed out it can be a bigger factor than weight. Yes you are correct about speed so 50 mph fixes some concern vs 70. But Ford publishes wind surface area maximum in addition to weight and it is surprisingly small- so while I might consider exceeding that and going slow, it is something to consider- I will be doing a rental of a 16/17’ unit to test before buying. (I will be testing both tow capability and lifestyle as maybe 1works and other not so much, lol).

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