Another 12v battery in my 23 Hybrid

[Master Blaster]

OK, I'm in right now for the 4th battery in my late-23 Hybrid. This is getting really tedious. All modules were updated to latest last month, and they blew the TCU while doing the updates. Much as I love my Mav, I'm spending a lot more time in the dealer waiting room than I ever expected.

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[Glen Baker LLC]

OK, I'm in right now for the 4th battery in my late-23 Hybrid. This is getting really tedious. All modules were updated to latest last month, and they blew the TCU while doing the updates. Much as I love my Mav, I'm spending a lot more time in the dealer waiting room than I ever expected.

That totally sucks. You shouldn't have to, but have you removed fuse 11/12?

 

[HeyBales]

OK, I'm in right now for the 4th battery in my late-23 Hybrid. This is getting really tedious. All modules were updated to latest last month, and they blew the TCU while doing the updates. Much as I love my Mav, I'm spending a lot more time in the dealer waiting room than I ever expected.

Here's hoping you at least get an AGM this time.

Curious - with the updated modules - did they comment how many had something available?

I've only had the recall updates - but I know there are some SSM updates too if you come with a specific issue - and some of those require more than just 1 module updated for ones that talk to each other directly.
But some of those SSM instructions seem to call out ONLY updating the couple that are involved - seems a tad cheap to not do them all while hooked up and such.

 

[Master Blaster]

Here's hoping you at least get an AGM this time.

Curious - with the updated modules - did they comment how many had something available?

I've only had the recall updates - but I know there are some SSM updates too if you come with a specific issue - and some of those require more than just 1 module updated for ones that talk to each other directly.
But some of those SSM instructions seem to call out ONLY updating the couple that are involved - seems a tad cheap to not do them all while hooked up and such.

OK, back home. The new battery is an AGM. It's only showing 12.33V on a brand new battery. I'm unsure if that's going to be a problem...

 

[HeyBales]

Good grief - have they really had a stock of those sizes sitting around that long?
Is the battery date code the serial number conveniently on the top sticker?

And while those are around - people with repairs still clamoring for items that appear to only be at the factory for new build use.

 

[Master Blaster]

That totally sucks. You shouldn't have to, but have you removed fuse 11/12?

That fuse runs the TCU and not much else. The Ford app got stuck after they updated everything and blew the TCU, and that's how I found the failed TCU since the dealer never noticed that little problem. Replacing the TCU is a full dashboard removal job that cost me another 5 hours in the dealer waiting room. Its now the latest version of hardware and software, so I doubt that is causing the problem.

 

[Master Blaster]

OK, I'm in right now for the 4th battery in my late-23 Hybrid. This is getting really tedious. All modules were updated to latest last month, and they blew the TCU while doing the updates. Much as I love my Mav, I'm spending a lot more time in the dealer waiting room than I ever expected.

Ok, I measured the brand-new AGM battery this morning, and they only charged it up to 70% (12.33V)before installing it and resetting the BMS. That's going to guarantee that it fails early, so I'm trickle-charging it now before I reset the BMS yet again. Gotta love dealers who follow Ford's broken instructions on how to do a battery swap...

 

[johnDeere]

It would be nice to see what the charging voltage is when the truck is running?

 

[Chopperbobc]

Charging voltage is 14.5 volts when the vehicle is running on my 2023 hybrid....

 

[HeyBales]

It would be nice to see what the charging voltage is when the truck is running?

Voltage stays decently high as mentioned above - rarely seen below 14V.

It's the Amps like a battery charger that start lowering rather fast to almost float charge - many times 15 min drive to work it's down to 0-1 bouncing.
Sometimes I'm shocked it's still at 2-4 A at that time.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Ok, I measured the brand-new AGM battery this morning, and they only charged it up to 70% (12.33V)before installing it and resetting the BMS. That's going to guarantee that it fails early, so I'm trickle-charging it now before I reset the BMS yet again. Gotta love dealers who follow Ford's broken instructions on how to do a battery swap...

Don't forget the 12 hour truck locked battery learn procedure with the battery fully charged.

 

[2seater]

I just got my third battery on my 23 hybrid. Only 13,300k miles as this is a summer only vehicle. It just went into storage and is on a Noco maintainer during its sleep and always has been. I concur that the voltage while running looks deceptively like normal charging. This last one was just November 1st where the truck got an oil change and new battery, drove 13 miles to storage and went on a small 2amp maintainer. It was 27hrs before the maintainer reached what it considered full charge and turned the green light on.

 

[Master Blaster]

Ok, I measured the brand-new AGM battery this morning, and they only charged it up to 70% (12.33V)before installing it and resetting the BMS. That's going to guarantee that it fails early, so I'm trickle-charging it now before I reset the BMS yet again. Gotta love dealers who follow Ford's broken instructions on how to do a battery swap...

The dealer wants me to remove my camera connection. Its not a camera, but an Italian Octo-branded insurance dongle in the ODBII connector, as that could draw down the battery. It only measures distance travelled, and I get a bill for every 1,000km driven. That makes it a very cheap vehicle to insure. I checked the specs, and it only draws 4ma while running, so that is not likely to be any issue. The Ford specs state that 50ma is acceptable draw for the electronics overnight, so adding another 4ma is almost nothing. With it removed, I have to move to a higher-priced insurance, so I'm doing that now, but do not know how much more I'll pay yet.

After the dealer reset the BMS with the supposedly fully-charged AGM battery only at 12.33V or 70%, I put on my own 10A charger overnight. I got it up to 12.65V, or about 85% charge on an AGM battery, reset the BMS and let it sit with the doors locked for another 15hrs per the battery replacement instructions.

After 4 batteries in 26 months, I wonder if the actual problem with all the previous failed batteries is that the dealer only reset the BMS with a 70% charge, and the BMS would then prevent it from ever getting higher to avoid the inevitable sulfation damage.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

The dealer wants me to remove my camera connection. Its not a camera, but an Italian Octo-branded insurance dongle in the ODBII connector, as that could draw down the battery. It only measures distance travelled, and I get a bill for every 1,000km driven. That makes it a very cheap vehicle to insure. I checked the specs, and it only draws 4ma while running, so that is not likely to be any issue. The Ford specs state that 50ma is acceptable draw for the electronics overnight, so adding another 4ma is almost nothing. With it removed, I have to move to a higher-priced insurance, so I'm doing that now, but do not know how much more I'll pay yet.

After the dealer reset the BMS with the supposedly fully-charged AGM battery only at 12.33V or 70%, I put on my own 10A charger overnight. I got it up to 12.65V, or about 85% charge on an AGM battery, reset the BMS and let it sit with the doors locked for another 15hrs per the battery replacement instructions.

After 4 batteries in 26 months, I wonder if the actual problem with all the previous failed batteries is that the dealer only reset the BMS with a 70% charge, and the BMS would then prevent it from ever getting higher to avoid the inevitable sulfation damage.

Could be if it thought 12.33 was all it would hold. My noco g5 can take 1.5-2 days when battery is at 11.8v plus about 3 more days to run the sulfate/optimization routines.

 

[johnDeere]

Voltage stays decently high as mentioned above - rarely seen below 14V.

It's the Amps like a battery charger that start lowering rather fast to almost float charge - many times 15 min drive to work it's down to 0-1 bouncing.
Sometimes I'm shocked it's still at 2-4 A at that time.

It’s odd that your charging current could be down to 2-4A by 15 minutes.
It could if not much current was drawn when the key was turned off.
But could be right, if the BMS was taught the battery full but when the battery was only 80% full

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