Another 12v battery in my 23 Hybrid

[Glen Baker LLC]

This is the original flooded battery that came with the truck.
I don't know if this is good or bad.
My truck has been sitting for almost 20 hours since I last drove it. A direct test of the battery is showing 12.19 V it could be more. I ran out of hands so the positive probe is just resting on top of the terminal. I hope.

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[Prickly Pear]

I won't go to a dealer for something I can fix - it's like getting elective surgery. You might get lucky and get out of the hospital in one piece!

 

[MakinDoForNow]

This is the original flooded battery that came with the truck.
I don't know if this is good or bad.
My truck has been sitting for almost 20 hours since I last drove it. A direct test of the battery is showing 12.19 V it could be more. I ran out of hands so the positive probe is just resting on top of the terminal. I hope.

If you opened the door to check your battery you have woke the truck up. It will be using about 0.2-0.35 volts to get ready for you to put key in and turn it to ready. If you leave hood up when you park it and take readings at jump post without raising hood, opening doors, or approaching with key fob you can get battery voltage without anything pulling current.
ETA: I have seen 12.7-12.8 volts at the jump posts on the OEM 390CCA battery three days after my noco g5 spent five days on the battery.

 

[HeyBales]

The dealer wants me to remove my camera connection. Its not a camera, but an Italian Octo-branded insurance dongle in the ODBII connector, as that could draw down the battery. It only measures distance travelled, and I get a bill for every 1,000km driven. That makes it a very cheap vehicle to insure. I checked the specs, and it only draws 4ma while running, so that is not likely to be any issue. The Ford specs state that 50ma is acceptable draw for the electronics overnight, so adding another 4ma is almost nothing. With it removed, I have to move to a higher-priced insurance, so I'm doing that now, but do not know how much more I'll pay yet.

After the dealer reset the BMS with the supposedly fully-charged AGM battery only at 12.33V or 70%, I put on my own 10A charger overnight. I got it up to 12.65V, or about 85% charge on an AGM battery, reset the BMS and let it sit with the doors locked for another 15hrs per the battery replacement instructions.

After 4 batteries in 26 months, I wonder if the actual problem with all the previous failed batteries is that the dealer only reset the BMS with a 70% charge, and the BMS would then prevent it from ever getting higher to avoid the inevitable sulfation damage.

What they did certainly didn't help.
The BMS Relearn sounds like it does some tests of it's own to discover what should be possible, but still.

The OBD port is shutoff when the power ports are shut off.
So up to 75 min on good battery, down to nothing when door opens.
Sleep mode starts after that - so the 25-50 mA wouldn't even include it.
My OBD adapter for Forscan is wireless - so it has a green light - spec'd 5mA drain, when it's on.

But - on a fully charged battery due to 3 days of long driving - I noticed 1 night camping the OBD and power port were on way after they should have been - hours. I figured a glitch.
Well - unless someone opened the door shortly before I woke up to get rid of some water.
Maybe that's what woke me up actually, don't know, didn't ask.

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