Exactly this! I came back to this thread to post a link to this video, but you beat me to it.Another video on oil thickness, interesting information I will stay with OEM recommended viscosity
So, given the hectic schedule of moving our household to another house in the area this Spring, I kicked the can quite a ways down the lane, re: oil change on the Mav (and the wife's Pilot). The Mav accumulated nearly 13k mi on this oil, and the MM popped up with "5% oil life remaining" just a day before I did the oil service.Folklore and the anecdotal aside, I had oil analysis done on the dealer 0w-20 last year--at 10k mi on the oil- and it was very good to excellent on all points (see related thread). I have 5w-30 (full synthetic) in it now and approaching the 10k interval (April, I think). Plan to have that oil analyzed as well. Hoping for somewhat better total metal ppm (under 5ppm/1000mi). I won't be dismayed if it is the same or even somewhat worse, in which case, I'll try 5w-20.
Also a big grunt to those who use 20w-50 or something like that for strawman arguments against deviating in any way from OEM viscosity recommendations. 5w-30 isn't a dramatic difference anyway.
As for smoothness; I too observed a somewhat quieter engine w/ 5w-30 in the Fall and Winter, which I wasn't surprised by, given past experimentation with viscosity with other vehicles. It IS a tad bit lumpier transitioning from electric to ICE when the engine is cold, but once up to temp, the transition is nearly undetectable from seat of the pants as before, but of course still noticeable as the ICE exhaust makes noise.
So, given the hectic schedule of moving our household to another house in the area this Spring, I kicked the can quite a ways down the lane, re: oil change on the Mav (and the wife's Pilot). The Mav accumulated nearly 13k mi on this oil, and the MM popped up with "5% oil life remaining" just a day before I did the oil service.
I was multi-tasking on Sat when I did it, and while briefly remembering the day prior I should get a sample for testing, I managed to drain the crankcase and drop the filter in the pan, w/o taking a sample.
The pan I drain into has been exposed to the garage enviro for 6 months, so who knows what dirt and schmoo were in it. So, no test sample for this round. Put Kirkland 5w-30 in it and will revisit 10k from now.
BTW, the pan is by far the best I've ever used in 40 years of DIY:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R92VT2V?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_35&th=1
I'm sure there are others very similar by now.
Been there and rejected both. The one with little hole splashes oil out around the pan when you first pull the engine pan bolt, or worse if a breeze is blowing on the stream, completely off the pan. For the big red cover version, more finicky placement to hit the hole, and if the stream isn't centered or blows off center, splashes out. And if the red lid isn't tight or age and/or grit comprises the o-ring, they leak on the floor when set upright.Regarding the pan....
Bah.... no lid.
I always get ones with lids or enclosure.
Then you can just drive it to the recycle place. No transfer necessary. And I can do two changes or two cars between trips to the oil drop off place.
![]()
![]()
I had one many years ago like that. The red lid was a cap that covered the collection funnel.Been there and rejected both. The one with little hole splashes oil out around the pan when you first pull the engine pan bolt, or worse if a breeze is blowing on the stream, completely off the pan. For the big red cover version, more finicky placement to hit the hole, and if the stream isn't centered or blows off center, splashes out. And if the red lid isn't tight or age and/or grit comprises the o-ring, they leak on the floor when set upright.
The Lisle is wide, deep, has an anti-splash lip for draining and carrying, and the spout fits into a gallon jug or my 5-gal gas can I use for waste.
Wait, my doctor used that on my last colonoscopy! He lied!!![]()
Easier and cleaner yet; 3 minute oil change. Too bad the oil filter isn't a topside cartridge on this vehicle...
And you go it from where please.![]()
Easier and cleaner yet; 3 minute oil change. Too bad the oil filter isn't a topside cartridge on this vehicle...
oh my, I got mine as a package deal from a guy when I bought an old VW diesel, I bet there's a million clones of this thing out there nowadays. It was nice on that old car because the oil filter was on top too and it had the bolt on tray underneath, so this was the coolest thing, do an oil change only by opening the hood, filter and all!And you go it from where please.
I think if you listen to much of The Motor Oil Geek he shares the lab results and shares that many oils shear back 1 grade. The only way to really know how a specific oil is holding up is to send it off to the lab to find out. One video he was sharing a lineup of Mobil 1 oils and asking the question is there really any difference between the various marketing labels on Mobil 1. He tested them and the results were interesting. There is a Truck and SUV oil that appeared to hold up the best to shear in that test. You might want to check out that video to help with some of the thought process on the viscosity and sheer.On my EB truck, done samples on the OE oil and subsequent changes with MC blend. The MC blend samples revealed low viscosity, below the MC listed viscosity range numbers, specs. However the big concern was report of oil shearing. With low viscosity, the shearing, obviously a concern. It has been suggested to go to 40 rated oil. Humm.
So attempt to address viscosity snd shearing, last oil change switched to full synthetic Motorcraft. Currently oil has 3,2xx miles, and a sample on the way to Blackstone. Waiting for results. Blackstone is aware of my concern of the previous viscosity and shearing results. Looking for better numbers. If not, plan to switch to different brand.
I thought you wrote up a great reply. I switched my 2020 Ford transit connect 2.0l non turbo at 80,000mi to 5w30. My fuel mileage actually went from 28.5mpg to 30.0mpg. This is after 20,000mi of checking it. I’m a big fan of 5w30 full synthetic oil.I have a 2022 Maverick Hybrid with now 70k miles on it. I do my own oil changes and transaxle fluid changes, basically all the typical maintenance. The truck has only ever been at the dealer for warranty or recalls.
I never completely liked the way the 2.5 engine sounds when running. It is basically fine, and it runs great, but there's always been this hint of "harshness".
From the very first oil change (at around 1,600 miles) until recently I have been running the recommended 0W-20 fully synthetic oil, changed at around 6.500 mile intervals. But with my most recent oil change I decided to fill it with synthetic 5W-30 instead.
Turns out: the engine feels and sounds noticeably better with the higher viscosity oil. And as likely most of you: I've been daily driving this thing long enough now that I can tell. It is significant enough that I won't go back to the Ford recommended 0W-20.
So 5W-30 it is going forward.
A few extra thoughts on this:
This engine was a development by Mazda as the "L-series", introduced around 2001 in multiple capacities including a 2.3 (the L3). Around 2008 the 2.5 L5 came out, which is is basically the engine we have in the Maverick Hybrid. At the time Mazda and Ford were cojoined companies and Ford ended up using these engines in various models like the Fusion, Escape, etc. relabeled as their "Duratec" engine. This Mazda/Ford engine has a truly stellar reputation for reliability.
This engine is used in different vehicles in various markets worldwide, and when you start looking it turns out the oil viscosity specified for this engine varies too: 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 5W-40 are some of what I found, depending on average operating ambient temperature.
In the US the only recommended oil for this engine is 0W-20 (irrespective of climate region!), but that almost certainly has to do with legality as related to EPA/fuel economy standards, and is not necessarily what's best for longevity. Many or actually most modern vehicles in the US require 0W-20 oil, or sometimes even thinner: 0W-16 or 0W-8 in for instance the latest Toyota engine families.
These newest engines are likely truly designed for this thin a viscosity, and I'd be more reluctant to switch to much higher viscosity oils in that case as it might "plug things up". But the essentially quarter century old engine in the Maverick Hybrid is in my opinion a different story, it was certainly designed for higher viscosity oils as specified for it in different markets.
After switching to 5W-30 I do appear to be noticing a slight drop in fuel economy. It is marginal, but I have the trip fuel economy reading on the dash pretty well calibrated to be exact, and I noticed an approx. 1 mpg drop on my daily commute over the last couple of weeks. This could just be weather conditions, or other randomness, but it does make sense as this is exactly the reason why 0W-20 is specified in the first place: thinner viscosity oil results in slightly better fuel economy.
Either way, at this point I think that running the Hybrid with 5W-30 will not only be fine, it will likely be better for longevity too.
With the engine now running so nicely, I'm willing to take my chances on it.
Cheers!
![]()