Motorcraft 5W-30 Full Synthetic

[zen_]

Personally, I think all synthetics are fine as long as you use a proper change interval, 10k miles is way too long.

This pretty much; there are no bad oils on the shelf these days from the cheapest SuperTech from Wal-Mart, to the house brand at an auto parts store, to the 6 gallon shop packs many shops use, to very expensive stuff like Amsoil and Liqui Moly.

I have been kinda sick the past few weeks and not riding my bike much, which means my mind wanders elsewhere, and I've been working on my car some while also getting up to speed with some things I have not thought about in years (like oil). My not AI generated summary of findings:

• Anything that meets the Ford oil spec is fine.
• Penzoil Platinum is still considered a "slightly better" off the shelf oil, having a better base from the GTL (gas to liquid) process.
• Filters are kinda interesting, and probably controversial. The OE Ford filter from what I have seen, like all the Mann Hummel / Wix filters has a ton of excess glue, and the glue sometimes breaks apart. Probably not a problem in practice, but if you're going to be very nit picky, it sadly seems like the best filters these days are coming from Premium Guard, which are sourced from a factory in Vietnam. I just grabbed a CarQuest blue (NAPA, AutoZone, and Advance have all switched to this source), and it does indeed seem like an extremely high quality filter.

I have also been curious how to document DIY oil changes for warranty purposes, but hopefully doing them properly will avoid any need for warranty work. Somewhat comically, dealers are notorious for using they cheapest fluids and parts they can, not OE. Why should a diligent DIY owner be buying Motorcraft oil when that's not what the dealer is going to use?

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[CajunMick]

This pretty much; there are no bad oils on the shelf these days from the cheapest SuperTech from Wal-Mart, to the house brand at an auto parts store, to the 6 gallon shop packs many shops use, to very expensive stuff like Amsoil and Liqui Moly.

I have been kinda sick the past few weeks and not riding my bike much, which means my mind wanders elsewhere, and I've been working on my car some while also getting up to speed with some things I have not thought about in years (like oil). My not AI generated summary of findings:

• Anything that meets the Ford oil spec is fine.
• Penzoil Platinum is still considered a "slightly better" off the shelf oil, having a better base from the GTL (gas to liquid) process.
• Filters are kinda interesting, and probably controversial. The OE Ford filter from what I have seen, like all the Mann Hummel / Wix filters has a ton of excess glue, and the glue sometimes breaks apart. Probably not a problem in practice, but if you're going to be very nit picky, it sadly seems like the best filters these days are coming from Premium Guard, which are sourced from a factory in Vietnam. I just grabbed a CarQuest blue (NAPA, AutoZone, and Advance have all switched to this source), and it does indeed seem like an extremely high quality filter.

I have also been curious how to document DIY oil changes for warranty purposes, but hopefully doing them properly will avoid any need for warranty work. Somewhat comically, dealers are notorious for using they cheapest fluids and parts they can, not OE. Why should a diligent DIY owner be buying Motorcraft oil when that's not what the dealer is going to use?

RE: Somewhat comically, dealers are notorious for using they cheapest fluids and parts they can, not OE.

Yea, I question that. At my dealer Quick Change station. Knowing they buy in bulk, and at each individual changing station, there are hoses hanging from common manifold, piping that techs uses to fill crankcases of vehicles they servicing. I asked service writer if their oils are Motocraft stuff. He said they are, volunteered to check Ford PN on computer. I didn’t, but probably shoulda ask, ”prove it to me”. I know I might be kicked out.

May next time go to parts counter, get MC oil in quarts, then pull up to Quick Change with that oil in back of truck, then ask they use this oil instead . Or if I get Quaker State oil, asked to use this instead.

 

[zen_]

RE: Somewhat comically, dealers are notorious for using they cheapest fluids and parts they can, not OE.

Yea, I question that. At my dealer Quick Change station. Knowing they buy in bulk, and at each individual changing station, there are hoses hanging from common manifold, piping that techs uses to fill crankcases of vehicles they servicing. I asked service writer if their oils are Motocraft stuff. He said they are, volunteered to check Ford PN on computer. I didn’t, but probably shoulda ask, ”prove it to me”. I know I might be kicked out.

May next time go to parts counter, get MC oil in quarts, then pull up to Quick Change with that oil in back of truck, then ask they use this oil instead . Or if I get Quaker State oil, asked to use this instead.

The service writer isn't going to tell you oh yes sir, we are using the cheapest bulk oil that we could source (and that's fine since it meets the spec).

It just seems kinda ridiculous to me to have to feel like you need to re-check work already done or question them. At that juncture you either need to do the oil change yourself, or have a good relationship with an independent mechanic who will do oil changes with the requested parts.

It's actually kinda surprising to me that manufactures even still do branded motor oil because it's really just a holdover from days gone by when more people did DIY oil changes and bought parts from the dealer service counter, so they had a fluid on hand that gave people a warm fuzzy feeling of having a product that was guaranteed to be right for their vehicle. Ford just had so much brand power (maybe outsized with enthusiast) that theirs was often sold outside the dealerships too. Open to be corrected on that, and I'm not saying it's wrong (to want to use Motorcraft oil), but there is literally an entire shelf 40 feet long of quality oil at the parts store and wal-mart now.

 

[DadofTim]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

Last question…why Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus Technology over Mobil 1, Castrol, Royal Purple or any other premium lubrication product?

In addition to being a first-of-its-kind motor oil made from natural gas, Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus Technology delivers COMPLETE PROTECTION including:

a. Cleaner Pistons: Keeps pistons up to 40% cleaner than the toughest industry standards (Based on ILSAC GF-5, Sequence IIIG piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30, and Ford, Chrysler and GM specifications. Does not apply to Pennzoil Platinum Euro products) Additionally, keep pistons up to 8% cleaner than Mobil 1 and up to 17% cleaner than Valvoline SynPower (Based on pistons from standard V6 engine in ASTM Sequence IIIG piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30. Does not apply to Pennzoil Platinum Euro products)

b. Better Fuel Economy: Drive on average an extra 550 miles per year vs. a dirty engine (Fuel
economy measurements made using CAFE cycle under FTP75. Avg of 550 extra miles based on mixed city/highway miles and US avg of 13,476 miles driven per year with 4.1% better MPG vs dirty engine. Source fhwa.dot.gov, 2011. Follow OEM recommended oil drain intervals)

c. Horsepower Protection: Helps protect engines from loss of power

d. Unsurpassed Wear Protection: No other leading motor oil provides better protection form friction (Based on Sequence IVA wear test using SAE 5W-30)

e. Excellent Performance in Extreme Temperatures: Provides faster low temperature oil flow and protects in extreme heat.

 

[Oscarcat]

This is what a dip stick wipe on a paper towel looks like - morning after a 5.5 then .5 quart top off.

I dare you to show me your dipstick wipe.

Anyway, no BS claims of “10,000 Mile Protection” on the label. Marketing not involved lol. Does say it “provides deposit protection on turbos” though.

Me: 24 Lariat hybrid. I have used Mobil-1 in all my cars for years. I do my own oil changes. Naturally aspirated, turbo Lexus, hybrid Prius, etc. Never had a problem.

To me, draining out the old oil as completely as possible is important. I've watched dealers do oil changes and the guys put the drain plug in way before the pan has drained to a drip. They have to, they are on the clock.
Since my front wheels are on on my redneck ramp; two criss-crossed 2x6"'s, there is extra slope toward the rear that helps drain the pan.

On my vehicles, and I am down to two now, I use an OEM oil filter, tighten it just right as I do the pan drain plug, pre-fill the oil filter which is easy using a Motorcraft 910S on the Mav and call it a day. I purchase my oil and filter at Walmart, pour the used oil back into the 5 qt jug and drop it off at a local auto parts store mandated to recycle motor oil. I realize not everyone can do this but it allows me control over the process. The worst part is the Torx fasteners on the cover. Oh, so many Torx fasteners.

 

[Chops]

The worst part is the Torx fasteners on the cover. Oh, so many Torx fasteners.

I attached a T25 Torx socket to a socket extender & added some 3M sill/grip tape so I don’t drop it on face as I lay on my back.

Made the cover removal/install a snap!

 

[Darryl]

From my research, and other advisories, most favor Quaker State full synthetic oil. Per specs on QS oil, it’s viscosity index higher than of MC, MB1 or PP.

My big concern is lab sample results of MC oils, any blend, has low viscosity readings. Doesn’t even meets published viscosity specs after engine sees 3-5k miles.

MC oil is Conoco Phillips stuff. High quality base stock comes from S Korea refinery, partially Saudi Aramco own.
MB1 is prob Exxon or Mobil. I not research it, but seen so so evidence of performances of this brand.
PP is Shell stuff. Top of line PP stuff claims made from natural gas.

My opinion: ANY of them will do a more than adequate job if changed at the recommended intervals. Almost EVERY modern engine that fails due to wear of bearings rings, or any lubrication point had a defect or oil changes were not done close to manufacturer recommendation. That's even true for most turbocharged engines. Another observation: People who only use the best brand of oil are usually the same people who change their oil BEFORE it's recommended. .

 

[Chops]

Whoa, whoa, whoa! Let's not start sharing pictures of our dipsticks please.

I did not ask for pictures of dipsticks - just a picture of the paper towel you wiped it off on

 

[JimKivi]

For those of you interested in more reading on the oil issue, there is a site: BOB IS THE OIL GUY, which has beat most dead horses beyond death, but there ARE some very experienced folks on there.

 

[Cherokee]

I also sniffed the oil cap after a 40 mile canyon drive today. Slight scent of gasoline - not good. Symptom of faulty fuel injector(s). This is a new 25 EB…

Crank case ventilation, completely normal smell.
My 2004 escape and my 2024 Eco Mav smells exactly the same.
Just a little gasoline/ethanol Oder.

 

[Snox801]

That’s some clean oil. That being said only way to know is oil samples. No sense changing oil at 5k if it’s not needed or gonna benefit. Also no good to go 5k if you have a ton of fuel dilution.

 

[Cherokee]

I’ve never done oil sample analysis on any engine I’ve had.
I always get super long service life and have never had a single engine problem.
I use full synthetic, one of several top brands.
Mobil 1
Motor craft
Pens oil
Etc
528,000 trouble free miles with a 2.7 Ltr 4 cyl Taco working it hard in central Florida. Absolutely severe duty, traded in with low compression, wow, imagine that !
10,000 mile oil change intervals on Mobil 1

394,000 on a AMC designed 4.0 liter straight six built in 1957 and converted to EFI in our 1996 Jeep Cherokee. When Jeep bought all the amc engines back when a Jeep was a Jeep.
It lived a hard life in the Florida heat.
Rear main let go due to slop in the crank bearings again at 10k service intervals
At 394,000 miles. Imagine that !
Did ya get that? No oil analysis ever.
How many of you old timers have actually worn out several engines ?

Sound off !
I’d bet a cheap six pack of beer not one of you old guys ever spent money on an
Oil analysis back in the day.

I didn’t baby my vehicles I pushed em hard, towing and all.
Had to turn off overdrive in that half million mile Tacoma because of the 2,000 pound Iriduim trailer I pulled. Had to stay in direct drive and not ride the planitaries.
That 528,000 miles was foot down hard miles not rolling around to Home Depot and the fast food drive through.
Oil analysis, pfft.

My Ranger 4 bangers, both taken past 350,000 working them to death. Basically the same engine that’s in the Hybrid Maverick. Just a sub 200 HP four cylinder.

I won’t list the other six engines all taken far past 200,000 miles.
Or the 167,000 miles on my 2013 3.7 liter ford F-150 running like new on the original iridium plugs.

Oil analysis is for million mile tractor trailer engines and F-4 Fantoms and A-10’s
A total waste of time and money on 99% of the civilian automobile engines of today.

Just my useless opinion.
Based on a lifetime of driving engines far longer than most.

 

[Meeka]

I’ve never done oil sample analysis on any engine I’ve had.
I always get super long service life and have never had a single engine problem.
I use full synthetic, one of several top brands.
Mobil 1
Motor craft
Pens oil
Etc
528,000 trouble free miles with a 2.7 Ltr 4 cyl Taco working it hard in central Florida. Absolutely severe duty, traded in with low compression, wow, imagine that !
10,000 mile oil change intervals on Mobil 1

394,000 on a AMC designed 4.0 liter straight six built in 1957 and converted to EFI in our 1996 Jeep Cherokee. When Jeep bought all the amc engines back when a Jeep was a Jeep.
It lived a hard life in the Florida heat.
Rear main let go due to slop in the crank bearings again at 10k service intervals
At 394,000 miles. Imagine that !
Did ya get that? No oil analysis ever.
How many of you old timers have actually worn out several engines ?

Sound off !
I’d bet a cheap six pack of beer not one of you old guys ever spent money on an
Oil analysis back in the day.

I didn’t baby my vehicles I pushed em hard, towing and all.
Had to turn off overdrive in that half million mile Tacoma because of the 2,000 pound Iriduim trailer I pulled. Had to stay in direct drive and not ride the planitaries.
That 528,000 miles was foot down hard miles not rolling around to Home Depot and the fast food drive through.
Oil analysis, pfft.

My Ranger 4 bangers, both taken past 350,000 working them to death. Basically the same engine that’s in the Hybrid Maverick. Just a sub 200 HP four cylinder.

I won’t list the other six engines all taken far past 200,000 miles.
Or the 167,000 miles on my 2013 3.7 liter ford F-150 running like new on the original iridium plugs.

Oil analysis is for million mile tractor trailer engines and F-4 Fantoms and A-10’s
A total waste of time and money on 99% of the civilian automobile engines of today.

Just my useless opinion.
Based on a lifetime of driving engines far longer than most.

Damn Cherokee, you’ve got more miles on you and your vehicles than NASA has on its Space Shuttles! But you’re right, I started driving way before oil analysis was heard about, always changed my oil and filters religiously and have never had a problem with many an engine, (back when I used to do everything myself).

 

[Darryl]

This pretty much; there are no bad oils on the shelf these days from the cheapest SuperTech from Wal-Mart, to the house brand at an auto parts store, to the 6 gallon shop packs many shops use, to very expensive stuff like Amsoil and Liqui Moly.

I have been kinda sick the past few weeks and not riding my bike much, which means my mind wanders elsewhere, and I've been working on my car some while also getting up to speed with some things I have not thought about in years (like oil). My not AI generated summary of findings:

• Anything that meets the Ford oil spec is fine.
• Penzoil Platinum is still considered a "slightly better" off the shelf oil, having a better base from the GTL (gas to liquid) process.
• Filters are kinda interesting, and probably controversial. The OE Ford filter from what I have seen, like all the Mann Hummel / Wix filters has a ton of excess glue, and the glue sometimes breaks apart. Probably not a problem in practice, but if you're going to be very nit picky, it sadly seems like the best filters these days are coming from Premium Guard, which are sourced from a factory in Vietnam. I just grabbed a CarQuest blue (NAPA, AutoZone, and Advance have all switched to this source), and it does indeed seem like an extremely high quality filter.

I have also been curious how to document DIY oil changes for warranty purposes, but hopefully doing them properly will avoid any need for warranty work. Somewhat comically, dealers are notorious for using they cheapest fluids and parts they can, not OE. Why should a diligent DIY owner be buying Motorcraft oil when that's not what the dealer is going to use?

It's interesting how people insist on holding to old standards. I remember when my dad had a few customers that changed oil monthly/1500 miles because 3 months/3000 miles was "too long" . Those raised on 3000 miles say 6000 is too long. Now those raised on 6,000 miles say 10 000 is too long. Meanwhile oils, engine design, oil cooling, etc have improved over the years, . Also cars have smart oil life monitors that vary the oil change interval according to driving conditions. When people use the recommended oil and follow the oil life monitor, I have not seen any negative impact. It's when people use sub standard oil that problems occur when following the factory recommendation. With the oil life monitor, an engine operated under conditions requiring frequent oil changes will trigger the notification in a shorter interval. But if driven under less harsh conditions, it will be triggered closer to the 10 000 mile interval. And it will be just fine

 

[zen_]

It's interesting how people insist on holding to old standards. I remember when my dad had a few customers that changed oil monthly/1500 miles because 3 months/3000 miles was "too long" . Those raised on 3000 miles say 6000 is too long. Now those raised on 6,000 miles say 10 000 is too long. Meanwhile oils, engine design, oil cooling, etc have improved over the years, . Also cars have smart oil life monitors that vary the oil change interval according to driving conditions. When people use the recommended oil and follow the oil life monitor, I have not seen any negative impact. It's when people use sub standard oil that problems occur when following the factory recommendation. With the oil life monitor, an engine operated under conditions requiring frequent oil changes will trigger the notification in a shorter interval. But if driven under less harsh conditions, it will be triggered closer to the 10 000 mile interval. And it will be just fine

Following the OLM for the relatively simple 2.5L hybrid engine is probably fine, but there is a long, long line of ecoboost family engines that have had major issues rooted in poor design + oil change intervals that are too long. It's not just one thing though, it's a combination of decreased piston ring tension, turbocharging, and oil driven VVT and timing chains (or wet timing belts...). This issue isn't limited to Ford though, it's common with many engines that have gone down that path for more fuel economy at the expense of reliability.

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