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First oil change (rounded kilometers, not exact conversions)


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amfellow95

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Nope not getting into an argument. Its more of a grandstand by them. Similar to the awd vs fwd question where the person said basically fwd or no truck because awd drive is not true 4x4. And just buy a ranger if you want a true 4 wheel drive.
Agree 100%, just messin around!
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Anturok

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I have to drive 30ish miles to and from work with the speed limit the majority of the drive being between 50-70 mph. I don't plan on accelerating quickly or doing anything crazy, but I will be driving it like I normally would during the break in period. I will probably change the oil at around 3000 miles or if the light comes on before that.
 

grumpyunk

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I will take the manual recommendations under consideration. I figure they did not put crap oil into a new engine they HAD TO WARRANTY and say leave it there if it was not a reasonable suggestion.
As far as chips and shavings being floated around the engine by the oil, if they are indeed floating, why have an oil filter? The number of times I have seen ANY metal in an examined filter is very small. If the filter will not screen the particles from the oil, again, I say, why have a filter?
I will change at around the 4-5k mile mark. I have seen the pictures of an ecoboost with about 18k on the odo, and pistons coated in brown goo. Their oil change interval was too long.
Break in will be about a dozen runs from 30 to 60 in as high a gear as I can keep the transmission, and coasting back down to 30 after each acceleration run. The acceleration puts pressure on the back side of the rings to push them out to the walls for good 'interface'. The coast down after allows the new rings to get a bit of extra oil and to cool down after each of the pushes. After those runs, do normal driving, and if on a long trip, vary speed every 10-15 minutes. Accelerate 5-10 miles per hour faster, run there for a minute or so, then back off completely and slow down to 10-15 under whatever your cruise speed is. Somewhat doing the same thing as the 'first ten', and allowing the rings to relax and lose some heat and gain some lube.
With a turbo, you can spool up the cylinder pressure a lot compared to a 6 cylinder cast iron chevy stove bolt, but you should also drop that pressure during the first miles. Drive like you stole it is not what I would do, nor drive like my GrandMa on her way to Kroger via the back roads. Varied and brisk, not sedentary, consistently slow rpms, nor loaded to 100% of capacity for more than a few seconds at a time. Do your own thing...
tom
 

jimmy fitzwell

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I will take the manual recommendations under consideration. I figure they did not put crap oil into a new engine they HAD TO WARRANTY and say leave it there if it was not a reasonable suggestion.
As far as chips and shavings being floated around the engine by the oil, if they are indeed floating, why have an oil filter? The number of times I have seen ANY metal in an examined filter is very small. If the filter will not screen the particles from the oil, again, I say, why have a filter?
I will change at around the 4-5k mile mark. I have seen the pictures of an ecoboost with about 18k on the odo, and pistons coated in brown goo. Their oil change interval was too long.
Break in will be about a dozen runs from 30 to 60 in as high a gear as I can keep the transmission, and coasting back down to 30 after each acceleration run. The acceleration puts pressure on the back side of the rings to push them out to the walls for good 'interface'. The coast down after allows the new rings to get a bit of extra oil and to cool down after each of the pushes. After those runs, do normal driving, and if on a long trip, vary speed every 10-15 minutes. Accelerate 5-10 miles per hour faster, run there for a minute or so, then back off completely and slow down to 10-15 under whatever your cruise speed is. Somewhat doing the same thing as the 'first ten', and allowing the rings to relax and lose some heat and gain some lube.
With a turbo, you can spool up the cylinder pressure a lot compared to a 6 cylinder cast iron chevy stove bolt, but you should also drop that pressure during the first miles. Drive like you stole it is not what I would do, nor drive like my GrandMa on her way to Kroger via the back roads. Varied and brisk, not sedentary, consistently slow rpms, nor loaded to 100% of capacity for more than a few seconds at a time. Do your own thing...
tom
Hi Tom, that's the procedure I plan on implementing. I did it on my 2013 F150 and have almost no oil loss at each oil change interval (7500-10,000 miles).
But I have a question about RPMs and decompression.

As I recall you want to take it about 2/3rds the way to redline then let the decomp slow you back down. That was easy on the F150 because I could have it locked in 3rd gear or so. I'm worried on the Mav that once I let up on the gas it will shift into top gear and I won't get enough decompression.
I was thinking of putting a bunch of weight in the back and doing this procedure in the "L" gear. What do you think?
 

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tonyinsd

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A lot of the advice we got about caring for cars when we were growing up is obsolete. I laugh at the people in line at the Costco who don't turn off the engine because it supposedly takes more gas to start it back up than a minute of idling. Try ten seconds. Plus, you're leaving it idling for a lot longer than a minute anyway.

That's why I'm going to wait until that little change oil light comes on. I don't know when I last changed the oil on my Mustang and I don't care. When the light comes on, I'll get it changed. And yeah, I drive that car a lot harder than I will the Maverick. One's a performance vehicle designed to be driven hard, and one's a work truck.
 

DrDoom

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73bluebronco

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Clubs
 
I say this with respect and sincerity. You obviously know a LOT more than me.
You wrote:
The number of times I have seen ANY metal in an examined filter is very small

That's a lot more than "I've never seen it". I'd hate for a surgeon to tell me (even if it were true :))
'Rarely does someone die during these procedures, and the number of times they do afterward, is very small'

So here's my question: If metal, chips or particles, sometimes float around while/after breaking in, isn't it worth spending the price of an oil change to rid the engine of these things? I'm not a worrier AT ALL, but if nothing else, the piece of mind would be worth the money to me.
(Again-No sarcasm. A sincere question)
More often than not, it is the particles that are too small to see that cause the most damage anyway. The particles that are large enough to get snagged by the filters are usually too big to fit into the clearances where they can do damage. The larger the particle is, the more likely it is to be captured anyway, or get stuck in the oil pan because of their weight. If you really want to see how much metal is in the filter media, either a patch test should be ran with a microscope, or run the filter media over a magnet and you will see some fuzzy stuff dance on the media surface.
 

AUsomTiger

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My plan: 750+ mile drive home no cruise, vary speed. Done.
 
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Rob Cactus Gray

Rob Cactus Gray

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Down

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That's a lot more than "I've never seen it". I'd hate for a surgeon to tell me (even if it were true :))
'Rarely does someone die during these procedures, and the number of times they do afterward, is very small'
I have no POV to share on the larger conversation but I gotta say, if I had a surgeon that DIDN'T tell me "rarely, people die during this procedure", I'd get another one, because that's an honest answer.
 

TRUCKHEF

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Honestly oil filters can get particles down into the microns, 20 or so I believe. I'm super OCD and will be keeping this truck for 10+ years so before pickup I'll be getting some magnets to pop on the pan if its not composite, a magnetic drain plug after the first oil change, and filter magnets as well.

Also some liquimoly friction modifiers into the oil. Also will be doing a transmission fluid flush at 10k with a change or clean up of filter for that too. Heck throw some magnets on the transmission too...

http://www.filtermag.com/
 
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Rob Cactus Gray

Rob Cactus Gray

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Honestly oil filters can get particles down into the microns, 20 or so I believe. I'm super OCD and will be keeping this truck for 10+ years so before pickup I'll be getting some magnets to pop on the pan if its not composite, a magnetic drain plug after the first oil change, and filter magnets as well.

Also some liquimoly friction modifiers into the oil. Also will be doing a transmission fluid flush at 10k with a change or clean up of filter for that too. Heck throw some magnets on the transmission too...

http://www.filtermag.com/
Are you an Amsoil guy as well? Stuff it fantastic from my own experience.
 
 




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