Towing a 1500lb camper trailer with hybrid?

[OK Spitty]

I have both the original 4 pin and I added my own 7 pin.

(4 pin moved, and yes I'm missing a screw, lost one during install, no biggie and has been low priority to find a replacement)

4 of the 7 in the 7 are identical and are interconnected. You'll need to add 3 additional wires only.

1 continuous 12 volt power (or switches on with ignition)
1 for trailer brakes led to brake controller in cab
1 for reverse lamp on trailer (optional and if so equipped).

Where did you tap into ignition on power?

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[Donald]

For those of you towing, are you using tow/haul? I noticed in tow/haul the electric doesn’t come on, maybe going down hill.

 

[Bargeld]

I have a Curt hitch that I added to my alternate "sport" vehicle. It is a CVT as well, which is a weak spot on that vehicle if abused or not maintained with diligence. US versions of that vehicle are not rated to tow. They do not come with a hitch or wiring. BUT in Canada and other markets, it is rated to tow 2,000/200 AND it comes with an additional CVT cooler from the factory. The running theory is that the US corporate just doesn't want to mess around with warranties and towing and the CVT maintenance.

I have towed UHaul 6x12s a number of times across thousands of miles with 0 issues. Some owners insist that the transmission cooler add-on is a requirement, even if not towing. My belief, based on 10+ years of forum history for that vehicle, that adding the factory part transmission cooler actually introduces more problems with installation and wrong parts, etc.

Takeaway here is that I would bet the 2,000 rating on the Hybrid is meant more for the eCVT than for any other component on it. Like any other vehicle system, the harder you push it, the shorter it lasts. I'm not suggesting that people do or don't do anything, but I do support people making informed decisions. There is no hard weight limit. It's just about what's going to burn up your truck faster or slower, so act within your personal comfort zone.

Is there a CVT cooler option that could be fabbed from another Ford model or non-US market?

 

[tired comet]

XLT hybrid has towed my +/- 2000 lb. trailer twice now with no problems.
As far as U-haul goes, they must have gotten sued or something. Their questions and requirements about renting trailers or tow dollies seems overly cautious.

 

[GPSMan]

I have a Curt hitch that I added to my alternate "sport" vehicle. It is a CVT as well, which is a weak spot on that vehicle if abused or not maintained with diligence. US versions of that vehicle are not rated to tow. They do not come with a hitch or wiring. BUT in Canada and other markets, it is rated to tow 2,000/200 AND it comes with an additional CVT cooler from the factory. The running theory is that the US corporate just doesn't want to mess around with warranties and towing and the CVT maintenance.

I have towed UHaul 6x12s a number of times across thousands of miles with 0 issues. Some owners insist that the transmission cooler add-on is a requirement, even if not towing. My belief, based on 10+ years of forum history for that vehicle, that adding the factory part transmission cooler actually introduces more problems with installation and wrong parts, etc.

Takeaway here is that I would bet the 2,000 rating on the Hybrid is meant more for the eCVT than for any other component on it. Like any other vehicle system, the harder you push it, the shorter it lasts. I'm not suggesting that people do or don't do anything, but I do support people making informed decisions. There is no hard weight limit. It's just about what's going to burn up your truck faster or slower, so act within your personal comfort zone.

Is there a CVT cooler option that could be fabbed from another Ford model or non-US market?

I have towed with mine.
I have all the extra gauges via OBDII port.
Stuff runs 10 or 20 degrees warmer.
Nothing overheated.
Nothing even got to what I would consider a "yellow- caution zone".

Example: running all day on the freeway "light" - water temp 190°F.

Example: running all day on the freeway "heavy" - water temp 200°F.

Electric motors, transmission, battery, all 10 to 20 degrees warmer, and a long ways away from automatic shut down (except the battery, because the battery operates in a pretty narrow band, not much headroom for the battery pack).

Battery Temperature may be a weak link. But so what. If it gets too hot, nothing "breaks" it just quits until cooled below the programmed threshold. I think FWD is the weakest link.

EDIT AFTER 6,000 miles towing: THE BATTERY IS NOT A WEAK LINK. The battery is hardly used on the highway in normal conditions and is hardly used on the highway when towing. The battery is most heavily used during stop n go conditions both empty/light or towing.

Look at all the Mavericks.
FWD Ecoboosts have the same tow ratings as hybrids even though they have 30% more power.

The more weight you put on the rear bumper, the less downforce you have on the front axle. Putting 400 lbs on the back bumper may have the same effect as 1500 lbs of sand in the bed, traction wise.

Trailer weight can reduce traction in a FWD. With sand in bed, at least SOME OF the weight will go to the front.

These opinions are my opinions based on experience and are not a recommendation.

That said: which is worse? 20,000 miles of towing 1,500 pounds or 2,000 miles towing 3,000 pounds?

There is no legal limit for non-commercial use. In a few minutes someone will harp there is. They are wrong. I researched the hell out of it. You will never ever get a "ticket" for being overweight. The law doesn't care (nor does the law measure) your trailer weight. You can only be cited for "unsafe driving" which could happen with a 1,000 pound trailer and inexperienced driver. Weight will never be cited for any non-commercial driver. Most western states, confirmed.

100% of the people who actually asked their local law enforcement agree with me. I've not gotten feedback from all 50 states, there could be a rare exception.
Come with strong proof of exception or use your right to remain silent, please.

 

[The Ranch Wife]

Been towing my Scamp 13ft with zero problem fulltime for a couple months now. Barely know its there (other than MPG dropping to about 25-26 mpg).

My trailer weighs about 1550 lbs when empty. But I usually have the water tank filled and a bunch of stuff in there. So probably closer to 1700 lbs.

i also cary 20 gallons of water and gas in the trunk. Plus a gfc camper on top.

I do not have extra passengers though. Just me.

It seems to have absolutely zero problems with my setup.

Did you put an aftermarket brake controller on your truck ? If so, did you have the truck re-wired or just use a 4 to 7 pin adapter. I am looking at a similar retro looking trailer. My new Hybrid will be here in two weeks !

 

[realshelby]

Where'd you get that number? Dry weight of the trailer is 1500lbs. We won't put anywhere close to 700 lbs in it. The other weight I referenced would go in the bed or cab.

A 1500 lb trailer is probably the manufacturers advertised dry weight. Put in bed linens, dishes, stuff in the refrigerator, water and other junk and you will be well above the 1500 lbs.

BY THE BOOK...your Hybrid has a Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating around 6000 lbs.
That means the total weight of the Maverick and EVERYTHING in it combined with the weight of the trailer and everything in it should not exceed about 6000 lbs. That is what Ford says.

So, even at 1500 lbs trailer weight, your 700 lbs of gear and passengers has you close to the Factory GCWR of around 6000 lbs for the Hybrid Maverick. Hybrid Mavericks are 36-3700 lbs empty curb weight. Personally I would not worry too much about that. But if the trailer weight is much higher than what you list, that becomes something to consider.

 

[Saltwater Cowboys]

Does a 1500 lb trailer with let's say a 150 lb tongue weight make your front end lift so much that your headlights blind oncoming traffic at night? I had this problem with my RAV4. Oncoming traffic constantly flashed their brights at me, which was pretty annoying considering I wasn't using my brights.

 

[LSchicago]

We are considering purchasing a Livin Lite Quicksilver XLP14 equipped with hydraulic surge brakes. Dry weight is 1500lb. How comfortable would you be towing with a hybrid?

Two adults + 2 kids + camping gear for weekends. I'd estimate people + cargo = ~600-700lbs.

The Livin lite XLP14 Pop up is perfect for the Hybrid. Not too much frontal area, and 500 extra pounds available for passengers, and supplies. That is as heavy as I'd go with a hybrid. Hybrid's are capable of more, but driving above 55mph on the highway really increases with drag which is why Ford has frontal area limitations. Pulling up a mountain is harder too. The trailer you suggested won't be stressing the Maverick if you choose to go 75, or over the rockies. Well done on keeping it reasonable for the truck.

 

[LSchicago]

Does a 1500 lb trailer with let's say a 150 lb tongue weight make your front end lift so much that your headlights blind oncoming traffic at night? I had this problem with my RAV4. Oncoming traffic constantly flashed their brights at me, which was pretty annoying considering I wasn't using my brights.

Not on a Maverick.

 

[JimParker256]

Does a 1500 lb trailer with let's say a 150 lb tongue weight make your front end lift so much that your headlights blind oncoming traffic at night? I had this problem with my RAV4. Oncoming traffic constantly flashed their brights at me, which was pretty annoying considering I wasn't using my brights.

That's one of the approximately one bazillion factors that goes into setting max tongue weight and max trailer weight. The traditional truck manufacturers (those whose vehicles are typically seen towing in the real world - Ford, Chevy, Dodge) are far more adept at making the kinds of compromises necessary to avoid situations such as you describe. Those car-makers who dip into trucks for the profit margin (think Toyota, Nissan, etc.) receive glowing reviews in the magazines for their "car like rides" but it comes at the expense of stuff like this...

Engineering: The art of blending style, performance, and economy of productions in such a way that nobody's happy... but everyone's satisfied. (Said by some professor, somewhere, at some point in my life.)

 

[Saltwater Cowboys]

That's one of the approximately one bazillion factors that goes into setting max tongue weight and max trailer weight. The traditional truck manufacturers (those whose vehicles are typically seen towing in the real world - Ford, Chevy, Dodge) are far more adept at making the kinds of compromises necessary to avoid situations such as you describe. Those car-makers who dip into trucks for the profit margin (think Toyota, Nissan, etc.) receive glowing reviews in the magazines for their "car like rides" but it comes at the expense of stuff like this...

Engineering: The art of blending style, performance, and economy of productions in such a way that nobody's happy... but everyone's satisfied. (Said by some professor, somewhere, at some point in my life.)

Well I purchased this particular trim level RAV4 specifically because it has the highest rated towing capacity for that model at 3500 lbs, so I was surprised that a trailer weighing less than half that weight caused this issue. Other than that it towed fine. And I get what you're saying about the Big 3 being better at trucks, but the Maverick isn't really a truck to me. It's a small SUV with a pickup box. Anyway, good to hear it doesn't have this problem.

 

[Quinnman]

Been towing my Scamp 13ft with zero problem fulltime for a couple months now. Barely know its there (other than MPG dropping to about 25-26 mpg).

My trailer weighs about 1550 lbs when empty. But I usually have the water tank filled and a bunch of stuff in there. So probably closer to 1700 lbs.

i also cary 20 gallons of water and gas in the trunk. Plus a gfc camper on top.

I do not have extra passengers though. Just me.

I have towed a regular 4 pin trailer loaded with tools and lumber locally up to about 2000 lbs gross trailer weight with no trouble for about a year at times.
I am now looking to buy a camper with electric brakes so I needed to convert to a 7 pin and get a brake controller. I have been looking at the Scamp, Helio 2 and the Pro Lite Plus S which is about 1390 lbs dry weight. Finding a light weight camper with a bathroom and inside kitchen is tough in that weight ctegoory.
I just installed the following 4 to 7 pin kit on my 22 Maverick XL hybrid.
Carseatty Universal 4 pin to 7 pin/4 pin kit. I used the flex bed 12 volt for the auxiliary connection for charging the camper battery. I have a Curt Discovery brake controller and it needs 4 wires. The 12 volt , ground and the brake stop signal wire as well as the brake output wire connection. The kit has the brake wire so that is a no brainer to run but the stop signal wire connection is a tough one. I do not want to use the flex bed power for the brake controller and the auxiliary on the seven pin. I want them separate to allow extra load safety so as not to rely on the one circuit for both.
How did you wire in your brake controller for the scamp? Does anyone have information on how I can obtain the power for the controller brake signal in the cab fuse panel area as there is no adaptor harness for the Maverick for a brake controller unit.
Would appreciate any information or insight anyone would have.

 

[Quinnman]

I have towed a regular 4 pin trailer loaded with tools and lumber locally up to about 2000 lbs gross trailer weight with no trouble for about a year at times.
I am now looking to buy a camper with electric brakes so I needed to convert to a 7 pin and get a brake controller. I have been looking at the Scamp, Helio 2 and the Pro Lite Plus S which is about 1390 lbs dry weight. Finding a light weight camper with a bathroom and inside kitchen is tough in that weight ctegoory.
I just installed the following 4 to 7 pin kit on my 22 Maverick XL hybrid.
Carseatty Universal 4 pin to 7 pin/4 pin kit. I used the flex bed 12 volt for the auxiliary connection for charging the camper battery. I have a Curt Discovery brake controller and it needs 4 wires. The 12 volt , ground and the brake stop signal wire as well as the brake output wire connection. The kit has the brake wire so that is a no brainer to run but the stop signal wire connection is a tough one. I do not want to use the flex bed power for the brake controller and the auxiliary on the seven pin. I want them separate to allow extra load safety so as not to rely on the one circuit for both.
How did you wire in your brake controller for the scamp? Does anyone have information on how I can obtain the power for the controller brake signal in the cab fuse panel area as there is no adaptor harness for the Maverick for a brake controller unit.
Would appreciate any information or insight anyone would have.

 

[MetalThunder]

As others have said, as wind and weight goes up PERFORMANCE goes down. Understand this, and don't flog your truck to death.

I don't care how late you are, don't pull a tailer at 75 or more MPH!

Especially if you have some small trailer tires - your trailer wheel bearings will appreciate it.

Cheers

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