The stock audio system is great, actually. Here's why.

[LADemien]

You are right, B&O has 350 watts RMS. Still much better than the stock amp but B&O should have done better. Yes it is so much harder to work on audio systems in any vehicle today. Not many car stereo shops left because of that.

Agreed. The B&O system in my 2019 Edge was far superior to the B&O system in my 2022 Maverick.

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[billbillw]

Not to hijack the thread, but have you noticed that sound played from a phone is much clearer than FM radio? Is there a way to upgrade antenna or is the FM chip in the stereo incapable of picking up HD OTA radio?

My B&O / Sync3 system definitely has HD radio support. I would think that the base Ford Connected Audio system would have it, also, though.

Check here:
Ford menu in infotainment
Settings
Radio -> HD Radio is a toggle on/off

It doesn't, though. Only Maverick Lariat with Luxury Package has HD Radio.

HD Radio is a "premium" feature even now, despite being a couple decades old by now. 2023+ Escape has Sync 4 8" standard, but HD radio still requires a Premium or Tech Package. A >$40k Escape PHEV doesn't even have it. It has SiriusXM standard on Active (née SE), but not HD Radio. *shrug*

HD Radio is mainly a US thing. The base Maverick infotainment system originates from overseas in markets that don't have HD radio, and they didn't spend the money to support it on Maverick.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HD_Radio

FYI: HD Radio in the US is not High Definition. HD is short for Hybrid Digital, and it doesn't really sound better than a good analog FM broadcast. Yes, it eliminates static, but it uses heavy compression, much like an MP3 and often has very poor dynamic range. Now, most FM stations that still broadcast are sending out overly compressed material, no matter if on the HD or analog station. This has just become the norm. A few stations, usually the listener supported stations, play good CD quality music still. In my area WRFG still plays CDs on its Morning Blues show. You can easily hear the difference. If you don't have a good station in your area, try put something like the Radio Paradise app on your phone and stream their CD-quality feed. It will be an immediatly noticable quality improvement.

 

[HushCarAudio]

You are right, B&O has 350 watts RMS. Still much better than the stock amp but B&O should have done better. Yes it is so much harder to work on audio systems in any vehicle today. Not many car stereo shops left because of that.

Plenty of online shops and vendors like me that still offer services and parts. The B&O system needs a bypass unit and there are two popular plug and play units available now. I've helped hundreds of people install their systems remotely. Let me know if I can help do the same for you.

 

[colinl]

You are right, B&O has 350 watts RMS. Still much better than the stock amp but B&O should have done better. Yes it is so much harder to work on audio systems in any vehicle today. Not many car stereo shops left because of that.

what's your source for this info? the Maverick B&O amp is 5 channels and it has a 20A fuse. I don't know the RMS power output and I've wondered, but 350wrms seems really unlikely with only a 20A fuse. It's mathematically possible if the amp is all class D, but if it's A/B then it's probably 200wrms or less.

 

[Savcat]

FYI: HD Radio in the US is not High Definition. HD is short for Hybrid Digital, and it doesn't really sound better than a good analog FM broadcast. Yes, it eliminates static, but it uses heavy compression, much like an MP3 and often has very poor dynamic range. Now, most FM stations that still broadcast are sending out overly compressed material, no matter if on the HD or analog station. This has just become the norm. A few stations, usually the listener supported stations, play good CD quality music still. In my area WRFG still plays CDs on its Morning Blues show. You can easily hear the difference. If you don't have a good station in your area, try put something like the Radio Paradise app on your phone and stream their CD-quality feed. It will be an immediatly noticable quality improvement.

Then the Maverick's FM radio just stinks? There is a noticeable difference in sound quality between FM and any music from my phone. In my 22 Sienna with JBL, the FM radio reception sounds on par with my phone and at times better than Siriusxm.

I'm not going to spend $1k on a radio head unit upgrade for my XL. To my untrained ear, it's just odd that there is a noticeable difference in FM vs direct connection on the Maverick. It's an unfair comparison for the XL cost cutting system to a JBL upgrade in a Sienna.

My radio reception is actually limited too in the Maverick. I wonder if there is an antenna upgrade available? Noticeable more static and lack of range of radio stations in my metro area compared to every previous car that I have owned.

 

[Vibes]

I hear a lot on these forums and reviews about the Maverick's stock 6-speaker sound system - rarely is any of it positive. So as a guy who is something of a frugal audiophile, I'm going to give some of my thoughts on the Mav's sound system.

A few caveats:
1. I never use Bluetooth. I'm not sure if it's the codec, but audio over Bluetooth has noticeable distortion and digital artifacts. I always run my audio from my iPhone 11 to the stereo using USB-C and through the Apple Music app over Apple CarPlay. I typically use mp3s and occasionally Apple encoded AAC files. YMMV if you're using a different audio source or file formats.
2. I'm a rock/alternative/metal fan, which are genres that are usually very mid-forward in instrumentation. My thoughts probably won't apply to some other, more bass-heavy genres.
3. Almost all of my 25,000 miles in my Mav have been spent listening to music, so the speakers should be broken in. Speakers are made from paper and glue - which are fibrous and adhesive, so play time can "wear in" a speaker by loosening those stiffer materials.
4. I don't have any scientific analysis to give you. Sure, I could get in a number of cars, run pink noise through the system and capture them in stereo using a high quality mic and pre-amp and then use a frequency analyzer to give you an exact reading of what frequency ranges are strongest and weakest at ear level in the driver's seat. And while that would be super cool and fun to do, it's also something I don't have the time for at the moment.

On with the background:

My Mav was just in the dealership for the air bag recall and they, surprisingly, handed me the keys to a brand new loaded 2023 Ford Escape ST with all the goodies to drive in the meantime. Nice car; glad to have my truck back. Anyway, it had the premium B&O sound system in it, so of course I spun some tunes in it.

This isn't the first time I've driven a car with an "upgraded" sound system in it. I've had Bose, Sony, and JBL systems, and the Escape's is definitely one of the better ones I've used. With that said, I think it's a toss-up between the Sony in my 2011 Ford Fusion and - surprisingly - the stock six-speaker system in my 2012 Toyota Camry as to which one is "best."

Crash course in audio: sound is caused by pressure waves in the air moving at different speeds, or frequencies. The head unit is supposed to deliver a pristine audio signal and the amplification power necessary for the speaker to move back and forth and create those pressure waves. Most systems are able to deliver audio frequencies between 20 hertz and 20,000 hertz (or 20khz), both values of which are usually well beyond the audible spectrum for almost everyone. The lower the frequency (the fewer hertz), the lower the note. The higher the frequency (the more hertz), the higher the note. Of course, music is rarely one single, pure note; but a combination of notes from multiple instruments and voices with many "harmonics" and "overtones" creating the sound ("overtones" are the reason why one note played on a violin will sound different from the same note played on a piano, for instance). Generally, a well-mixed song won't overemphasize any one frequency range over another unless a specific situation calls for it.

Audio systems, on the other hand, don't often play by those rules - "critical listening" devices like studio monitors or flat-response speakers give an accurate representation of the music played through them, but tend to sound "flat," "lifeless," or "boring" to most listeners. Thus, most "premium" audio systems - particularly in cars - will overemphasize the lowest and highest frequencies, leading to a "mid-scooped" or "V-shape" sound (so named because the mids are "scooped" out of the frequency range, making a "v-shape" on a frequency analyzer). This is not necessarily a bad thing - "sub-bass" frequencies are ones that are often more felt than they are heard, and a crisp high treble can really bring out the subtleties in cymbals, horns, or high notes in a guitar solo, for instance. A "mid-scooped" sound usually has the effect of making a recording sound "bigger" at the expense of the loss of midrange clarity. A "mid-boosted" sound, on the other hand, will typically highlight mid-forward instruments such as acoustic and electric guitars and most vocals at the expense of sounding "smaller," or "boxier." But let's face it - that V-shape sound profile is just plain fun. It's a quick way to feel like you're at a concert. Everything sounds big, distant, and you really can feel the bass.

The stock Maverick system doesn't do that - at least not well. I had to add just a touch of treble and bass to the mix from the audio settings to make audio sound a bit more open. Note: it also helps to fade the music back towards the back just a touch - since the speakers are mounted so high, they project more directly towards the driver's ears. Yes, your listening position relative to a speaker has a dramatic effect on what you hear - ask anyone who's ever tried to mic up a guitar speaker and they'll tell you that a 5-degree angle will fundamentally change the tonality of the recording. Still, the stock Maverick system just doesn't really do a good "V-shape" profile without sounding compressed and fake (and likewise, most premium car audio systems won't do a flatter, more neutral sound without sounding artificial). Nothing can replace having multiple speakers of different sizes and crossovers feeding each of them the specific frequency range that they're able to best replicate. But what the stock Mav system does so well is that mid-forward, "boxy" sound.

Having listened to some particularly gnarly metalcore in the Escape, I was immediately struck by just how much punchier and "heavy" the rhythm guitars sounded in the Mav. I could feel every kick drum beat in the Escape and hear that satisfying treble "click" of the drum pedal connecting with the bass drum, but the guitars and vocals were kind of a blur that felt distant and indistinct. Again - cool sound; it definitely sounds more "live" that way. But the Mav was much better at reproducing the pick attack and "crackle" of the distorted guitars, even if the cymbals were a little soft in the treble range and I couldn't feel the kick drum and bass. Additionally, with the moonroof open, I felt like the "boxy" sound of the Mav's system made it a lot easier to hear over the wind noise than the Escape's. Is the stock Maverick system "better," then? Well, it depends on your taste, but I'd argue that for driving, then yes. It is.

Ultimately, if I wanted a "big" audio experience, I would rather have it in my nice quiet living room with my relatively inexpensive 5.1 Vizio sound system. It's got a very pronounced V-shaped sound to it and sounds absolutely huge - which is particularly good for movies and games, as well. For a vehicle in motion creating wind, road, and engine noise, that mid-forward sound actually lets me better hear the vast majority of the frequency range where my music sits at a lower volume and still enjoy it. With the engine off and parked - yes, the Escape's B&O system is better. But how often do I sit perfectly still inside a vehicle and listen to music?

So with a little tweaking and some care as to what to source to use with the stock system, I think the Maverick actually sounds great, if not fantastic. Certainly better than the stock system in many other cars I've driven. I still think other cars can offer a happier medium between the two extremes (That 2011 Ford Fusion's Sony system, though!). So before you go try to find a way to change that system, give the Mav's stock system a chance, and over time, you might come to enjoy its sound too.

So I'm wondering if a USB CD/DVD player would work plugged into a USB port in the Maverick. If it reads a flash drive full of mp3s, curious to know if that would work...My XLT stock Maverick is currently in production or I would try it myself.

 

[Ford Maverick Maniac]

what's your source for this info? the Maverick B&O amp is 5 channels and it has a 20A fuse. I don't know the RMS power output and I've wondered, but 350wrms seems really unlikely with only a 20A fuse. It's mathematically possible if the amp is all class D, but if it's A/B then it's probably 200wrms or less.

Sorry Colin, that was on another post but you are right that is too much for the fuse. B&O only brags about max output at 660 watts without telling us how much actually goes to each channel. The average (RMS) output is usually 25-30% of max power so probably no more than 200 watts total average output is split to all speakers.

The sound level is probably a driver safety issue so Ford limits the thump.

 

[colinl]

Sorry Colin, that was on another post but you are right that is too much for the fuse. B&O only brags about max output at 660 watts without telling us how much actually goes to each channel. The average (RMS) output is usually 25-30% of max power so probably no more than 200 watts total average output is split to all speakers.

The sound level is probably a driver safety issue so Ford limits the thump.

I think it's cost/need issue. That's also why the 6x9 'sub' is in an infinite baffle. Doesn't take much power - can't handle much power, without overexcursion - and lower resonance.

It will play pretty loud at volume 30 if you turn down the bass a few notches. Plenty loud to be distracting, but there are many factory systems that are considerably louder.

 

[billbillw]

Then the Maverick's FM radio just stinks? There is a noticeable difference in sound quality between FM and any music from my phone. In my 22 Sienna with JBL, the FM radio reception sounds on par with my phone and at times better than Siriusxm.

I'm not going to spend $1k on a radio head unit upgrade for my XL. To my untrained ear, it's just odd that there is a noticeable difference in FM vs direct connection on the Maverick. It's an unfair comparison for the XL cost cutting system to a JBL upgrade in a Sienna.

My radio reception is actually limited too in the Maverick. I wonder if there is an antenna upgrade available? Noticeable more static and lack of range of radio stations in my metro area compared to every previous car that I have owned.

There's not much worth listening to on FM anyway. For me, its only on FM while I'm waiting for my USB to scan or if I need news/sports broadcast.

 

[ejouie]

So if the base system sends 25w RMS to each channel that would be a total of 100w. Now the B&O has two additional channels with the center speaker and the 6x9. If the total output is 200w then that puts each channel at 33w. Sounds about right when comparing.

 

[Clifdawg]

I specialize in audio engineering for high-end small spaces, including compact home theaters that have won national awards, and did this analysis work on my Tremor, as documented in my build thread.

TLDR: The stock Maverick system uses multiple DSP tricks to make its parts-bin components sound acceptable to most people, in most scenarios. The tuning is actually better than one would expect for a bottom-end vehicle and not bad at all for its cost. Subjectively, you can love or hate it. But using industry-standard quantitative measurements, it's not a great system at all and there is tremendous room for improvement.

Stock: System begins to run out of headroom at about 75dB.

After installing a modest aftermarket system. This is capable of holding the response cleanly to the limiting factor, which is excessive vibration in the rear cab wall and window assembly at 85-95dB.

This is an outstanding analysis, thanks for this.
Headroom is definitely the biggest issue for the Mav’s base system. It’s definitely a cheap system that can be massively improved, but the overall DSP and tuning is largely good. Tuning has a lot to do with it - systems like my wife’s Bose in her CX-9 are technically “better” (sorta), but the tuning makes everything but the mid/low bass sound like mush, even if you try to EQ it out.

This all makes me miss the Bose in my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT with the 5-band EQ on the dash. Wish that was an option these days!

 

[Hernanmoser]

TLDR.

Respectfully, no.

The system is anemic and that's fine given it's a base model truck. It is in no way, shape or form "great."

Hi there, I think sound is good as factory setup in the Maverick. I live in Argentina and own the Maverick Lariat FX4 and a Corolla Cross. If you have the possibility to hear the sound coming out of a Toyota Corolla Cross system, then you will know what sounds really awfull. Thats why I mean Ford has good standard audio system quality, above other ccarmakers. But as someone mentiones, they could offer a premium sound equipment, I would be a good client.

 

[uh50]

I see a lot of complaining on here and also a lot of compliments. However, it does not seem that anyone is upgraded their system and provide details on what seem to work best for them. Lots of opinions, but no actual helpful information. Has anyone done a reasonably priced upgrade to their mavericks system? That they are happy with? If so, could you please post some information on it?

I have upgraded my sound system with Infinity 6.5” REF-6532IX (x2) front speakers & 4” x 6” REF-6432CFX (x2) rear speakers ($99), a Rockville RW68CA Subwoofer ($110), a Puzu PZ-C7 DSP Amplifier that included a plug and play Ford Maverick specific harness ($120), Kilmat 50 mil Sound Deadening (Price varies a lot), Metra Electronics 72-5602 Speaker Harness Front Door Maverick Only ($7.99), & Blaupunkt AMK88R - #8 AWG Wiring Kit ($17.99). All that totals $355 plus the Kilmat.

I carefully chose each component based on my research, clear bright sounds, full and balanced sound at all frequencies I can hear, base response including frequencies down to 20Hz, and fairly decent midbass, and cost within my budget of about $500. I love the sound I get for the type of music I listen to.

There are many examples of sound system upgrades here on MTC. Check out the Electronics, Electrical, Audio, Nav, SYNC, FordPass, Comms, Cameras forums. Tons of information about different sound systems upgrades.

Here is one of the later ones that was very cost effective.
Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

Here is my main thread that includes lots of information about my sound system build. It's 21 pages of my musings, but my sound system build is sprinkled throughout.
My humble review of my new Velocity Blue Maverick XL

Here are some other really good build threads.
Audio system / subs upgrades "bass"
Active Powered "All-N-One" Subwoofers

And finally, this is a great thread with all kinds of builds discussed.
Upgrading the XLT base audio system / door panel removal - finished with lots of pics.

There's probably more reading in these posts than you ever bargined for, but all the posters have helped many people that wanted a DIY upgrade.

 

[culprenski]

I agree- I think the sound system sounds great when it works. That is my issue with it. I was delighted to plug my S20+ into the USB port. The problem started right away- every 2nd or 3rd day the system would fail to detect the phone. When this happened there was no fix except to unplug the phone and wait till the next day. Shutting the truck down and restarted didn't fix it.

Also- the interface is lame. No fast forward or rewind? The only option is next track or previous track? I already paid an extra $5K to get cruise control, how much more for rewind??????

I have installed the latest firmware update. I will try my phone again. My phone has FF and RW.

If you press and hold down on arrow it will fast forward. I accidentally learned this. Lol

 

[MayhemMaverick]

TLDR.

Respectfully, no.

The system is anemic and that's fine given it's a base model truck. It is in no way, shape or form "great."

This, and the isolated waves propagated by the rear pillar speakers are simply noise. They don't add anything to anything, they are just noise.

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