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Can't find it, even at Crutchfield. Anyone actually have that info ?
- thanks !!
- thanks !!
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exactly. it isn't published because it's so low as to be irrelevant.10w maybe 12 w max per channel.
24p-p, 8.5vrms from the head unit. 8 ohm speakers, up front at least, that I've found. 9W max. Net system sensitivity is likely ~92dB, so max spl ~102dB peaks midrange (voice range). Because of the factory EQ LF boost, in practice the max system output seems to be high 80's dB.Can't find it, even at Crutchfield. Anyone actually have that info ?
- thanks !!
24p-p, 8.5vrms from the head unit, per channel. 8 ohm speakers, up front at least, that I've found. 9W max. Net system sensitivity is likely ~94dB, so max spl ~104dB peaks midrange (voice range). Because of the factory EQ LF boost, in practice the max system output seems to be low 90's dB.
I will note if you remove the large LF boost of the factory EQ by using Forscan and change it to "Flat", the entire system max output improves because an aftermarket sub handles everything below 60Hz.
It is just a guess but like I said 10 to 12 watts would be the most it's putting out.Thanks Todd. No way to tell for sure but that seems to be a sound guess (har).
B&O rears are not any better than base. I don't like the installation location, firing into the rear seat passenger head, or the fact it's a freeair 4", so I have mine faded low, essentially not there at all.I isolated the rear stock speakers with the balance/fade and they are truly, truly awful. They just make noise a sick lizard would be ashamed of.
What if you did something similar to what this guy did here?B&O rears are not any better than base. I don't like the installation location, firing into the rear seat passenger head, or the fact it's a freeair 4", so I have mine faded low, essentially not there at all.
I would do custom fiberglass pods in the rear doors instead.