I am so confused at some of these repliesOoooo I am invested! Do you think instead of drilling holes, i could use mounting tape instead? Ive got a whole roll at home!
Feeling like people are just trolling
Sponsored
I am so confused at some of these repliesOoooo I am invested! Do you think instead of drilling holes, i could use mounting tape instead? Ive got a whole roll at home!
It's a shame that for Lariat trim level, owners have to resort to doing their own sound proofing. My Lariat was $38K, which is not that much cheaper than my prior Audi Q5, and I am shocked at the road and wind noise in the cabin of the Maverick Lariat. It was so bad that I had to stuff bullet microphone foam windscreens behind the bluetooth microphone on the A post because people were complaining about the road/wind noise when I used the bluetooth microphone on phone calls.Lariat
[/QUOTE]I added the front door panel speakers and the rears. All Infinity Reference. I'm kind of an audio guy and the factory tweeters sounded good . They have great imaging and flat response from about 1200hz to over 20,000 hz. You could do a lot worse. I'm not playing with it.
The factory door speakers sound reasonably good if you keep the volume below 14. If you turn up the volume, the sound gets progressively distorted. The factory speakers are also limited in their bass response. The Infinity's can handle all the head unit can throw at it and delivered bass down to 40 hz. It's not hiphop loud but it is there. The head unit has enough power to run the speakers without distortion louder than I will ever turn it up.
I did buy some Tympano speakers with magnets as big as the speaker. When I tested them they were true one note wonders. They played 2K hz really loud and nothing else. Don't judge a speaker by it's magnet.
The factory system has active crossovers in the head unit which means each speaker has its own set of wires. I tested it with an RTA (real time analyzer). The door speakers seem to be cut off above 7khz and the signal to the tweeters is cut off below 2k hz. This means the crossover supplied by Infinity would require new wiring from the door to the dash and if it really were already crossed over it would not work. I left it out.
The rear speakers have no signal below 250 hz which mean you cannot tap it for a subwoofer. The factory rears were awful and the Infinity's there were a big improvement. One dot of killmat went behind each rear speaker.
The system sounds really good. I originally planned a DSP amp and a powered sub under the seat but I really don't need it.
Now if I can only get that pedestrian warning sound shut off I can really do some cruising.
The headunit doesn't have any active crossovers. My FiX82 saw a full range signal from just the front door speaker signal. I believe the factory tweeters had a high pass filter attached to it. The tweeter signal from the headunit is actually coming off the front door speaker wires. You can verify that from the speaker wire diagram.I added the front door panel speakers and the rears. All Infinity Reference. I'm kind of an audio guy and the factory tweeters sounded good . They have great imaging and flat response from about 1200hz to over 20,000 hz. You could do a lot worse. I'm not playing with it.
The factory door speakers sound reasonably good if you keep the volume below 14. If you turn up the volume, the sound gets progressively distorted. The factory speakers are also limited in their bass response. The Infinity's can handle all the head unit can throw at it and delivered bass down to 40 hz. It's not hiphop loud but it is there. The head unit has enough power to run the speakers without distortion louder than I will ever turn it up.
I did buy some Tympano speakers with magnets as big as the speaker. When I tested them they were true one note wonders. They played 2K hz really loud and nothing else. Don't judge a speaker by it's magnet.
The factory system has active crossovers in the head unit which means each speaker has its own set of wires. I tested it with an RTA (real time analyzer). The door speakers seem to be cut off above 7khz and the signal to the tweeters is cut off below 2k hz. This means the crossover supplied by Infinity would require new wiring from the door to the dash and if it really were already crossed over it would not work. I left it out.
The rear speakers have no signal below 250 hz which mean you cannot tap it for a subwoofer. The factory rears were awful and the Infinity's there were a big improvement. One dot of killmat went behind each rear speaker.
The system sounds really good. I originally planned a DSP amp and a powered sub under the seat but I really don't need it.
Now if I can only get that pedestrian warning sound shut off I can really do some cruising.
There pretty deep, it won't bother the window. Just curious why so thick? Some people have done both sound deadening material in the inner metal part of the door and the closed cell foam on the inside of the door panels. I only did deadening material and it work perfectly for me@Stitchy do you know if 1/2" thick foam would be able to go in the door which out messing with the window?
I don't want to open my door till everything gets here and was just looking at how deep those pockets are on the door
I am going to be doing the mega zorbe from second skin and wasn't sure if it would even fit, I already have the cld, mlv, and ccf just wondering if I needed more ccf or if I could get the bigger option.There pretty deep, it won't bother the window. Just curious why so thick? Some people have done both sound deadening material in the inner metal part of the door and the closed cell foam on the inside of the door panels. I only did deadening material and it work perfectly for me
Did you take the sub out and insulate behind it or just do the wall around it?I took my door card off on the passenger side because it rattled like hell with the B&O system. Lined it with the butyl and also put some closed cell foam on. Got rid of my door rattles, but I decided not to disturb the inner panel hiding the metal door skin. Wasn't sure how it came out and what box of worms I was opening or if I'd need to redo the gasket.
I took out the speaker instead and was able to reach my arm up in there pretty far. Got enough on the door skin that knocking it sounds much more solid than my other doors now. Now I just need to convince myself to do the rest of the doors and maybe the floor some day. i already did the rear under seat bins and back wall as those were the WORST with the factory sub vibrating them.
I did not remove the sub. I didnāt do complete coverage of the back wall as it didnāt seem necessary. The under seat bins though needed a lot of help and additional foam in some spots.Did you take the sub out and insulate behind it or just do the wall around it?
So what the backwall what was making all the noise because of the sub or the bins? Or both? hahaI did not remove the sub. I didnāt do complete coverage of the back wall as it didnāt seem necessary. The under seat bins though needed a lot of help and additional foam in some spots.
The bins were actually rattling which was very audible. The rear wall I just tapped around to find where it need some dampener. Basically anywhere itās flat without a bend nearby is where I placed the dampener, mostly down low on the wall. If Iām remembering correctly I was able to slide some of the dampener under the sub as it is mounted quite openly. Ford has some pre-applied in key spots as well, probably enough to get rid of the really bad spots. They just didnāt do a lot because of cost and weight Iām guessing.So what the backwall what was making all the noise because of the sub or the bins? Or both? haha
LOL, I'm moving from a 2008 Ford Ranger, the Mav's gonna seem like a quiet church in comparison!Much easier than expected. The doors are really easy to get into as long as you have the proper trim tools. The back wall was the biggest pain due to all the little cuts and shapes plus having to remove all the computers speaker and amp stuff. Here's a few pics. Absolutely no more rattling anywhere.