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- First Name
- Brian
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What’s the verdict on this? Big difference?Majority of under back seat now done. Will be driving later to see if it made any difference.
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- Mike
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Ya know.... I've behind thinking I could tear apart a pair of noise cancelling headphones and run it into the stereo. My Sony headphones get rid of that noise very effectively. 
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- Scott
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12 Bones in River Arts. Really, you can't go wrong with BBQ down here.
I had a bit of plastic rattle in my back seat when my B&O factory sub was bumping pretty good. Decided to take out the storage bins and put some dampener down. Covered a lot of the metal under the bins and when I placed the bins back in I noticed if you tap on them you can hear the plastic clank on the metal. Took them back out and put some foam around the edges of the bins and on a few spots around the big surface area points where the plastic flexes. Now tapping on the bins is silent and my rattle is gone.
No change in road noise from what I can tell, but my factory wildpeaks do sing a bit so that’s likely going to be my most significant road noise I can’t easily remove without new tires. The bass response feels quite a bit tighter though. Almost like I lost some total base output, but sounds cleaner. The door speakers definitely could use the same treatment though. They vibrate the crap out of my door panel both inside and out, with an occasional rattle depending on the song.
Side note, I did break a few clips getting those bins out. The ones where they have rubber around them are damn near impossible to remove. The clips I broke didn’t seem to really matter as it all fit back into place nicely and you’d never know until you went to remove the bin again. Was just a bit of a bummer they broke AND the clips are built into the mold of the plastic bin. It’s not a slide in sacrificial clips, so the whole bin needs replaced to fix the clip. I’d say the clips are more fragile than any other car I’ve worked on even 5-10 year old cars where plastic isn’t a pliable.
No change in road noise from what I can tell, but my factory wildpeaks do sing a bit so that’s likely going to be my most significant road noise I can’t easily remove without new tires. The bass response feels quite a bit tighter though. Almost like I lost some total base output, but sounds cleaner. The door speakers definitely could use the same treatment though. They vibrate the crap out of my door panel both inside and out, with an occasional rattle depending on the song.
Side note, I did break a few clips getting those bins out. The ones where they have rubber around them are damn near impossible to remove. The clips I broke didn’t seem to really matter as it all fit back into place nicely and you’d never know until you went to remove the bin again. Was just a bit of a bummer they broke AND the clips are built into the mold of the plastic bin. It’s not a slide in sacrificial clips, so the whole bin needs replaced to fix the clip. I’d say the clips are more fragile than any other car I’ve worked on even 5-10 year old cars where plastic isn’t a pliable.
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- First Name
- Sal
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- Maverick XLT Hybrid 2022 Mitsubishi Outlander 2017
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- 2.5L Hybrid
After removing the bin was the carpet easy to lift up? Asking because I want to add Killmat to the whole floor.
Overall the cabin sound is not that bad. At times I feel like the electric mode is louder than the ICE, but I just want to reduce road/motor/engine noise to get better music audio at lover volumes.
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- #69
I didn’t go past bins. Stoped at metal brace under front of rear seat. There isn’t carpet under there.
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The materials and techniques have advanced quite a bit since then. You've got a following already, many of us without our own Mavericks yet.
What techniques are there for identifying where noise is coming from? Maybe having someone else drive while you move your head around. Maybe using your spectrum analyzer while taking note of different locations. SPL reduces by the square of the distance, though it's a logarithmic scale. Your ears may do it better than your meter.
Having the same interest, there seems to be a few car audio installers who focus on the wheel wells - adding aluminum backe butyl tape to the interior side of the fender liners, the doors being another big target - the outer skin and inside of the trim.
- Thread starter
- #72
Update. Today I doubled up on the exposed area of back wall. Made even more of a difference. Now I can make out any front road noise over the rear. Definitely doing front wheel well areas next.
Ford has advertised the Mverick so heavily as a "DIY" truck, I don't see how they could object to any modifications. When I lived in Illinois, Ziebart was a must. I liked that they went inside doors to spray. I would caution on under-carriage coatings, if done cheaply it will gum up everything underneath making repairs ugly.
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- Sal
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What will you use for the wheel wells? I also want to see picks once completed.
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