Very cool information! I got similar measurements as yours. Didn’t see any bass roll off with volume either. Interested to see how well you can EQ your system.
I used a fix82 to flatten the signal before going to the JL VX1000i DSP (to make it easier to tune). Only had 10 bands of eq to work...
Has anyone CONFIRMED the wire material??? It can also be tinned copper wire. Would need to cut the end off and check the center of the wires. See pictures for example:
The headunit doesn't have any active crossovers. My FiX82 saw a full range signal from just the front door speaker signal. I believe the factory tweeters had a high pass filter attached to it. The tweeter signal from the headunit is actually coming off the front door speaker wires. You can...
Here's a video on how to remove the rear door panel. Not bad if you have the right tool and come in at the right angle for the window switch panel. That was hardest part (for me at least 😅)
I don't know what that raised square support was meant for. Don't really think it was needed. As for cutting into both 'layers' for adding a speaker, I'm not really experienced enough to give a useful answer. My initial thought was that you can make it work. If more support is needed at that...
Nice work. I did the same thing for sound deadening the front doors. That black plastic panel was a pain to remove at first. Luckily the rear doors don't have that. Just a plastic vapor cover.
Thanks for this! Hopefully this will be easier than the front doors. Doesn't look like the rear doors have that black window regulator panel to remove.
Thanks. I've done the front doors already but the rear door window switch panel seems a bit harder. Not sure where the clips are. I may just hold my breath and pull up (similar to front ones)
Has anyone removed the rear door panels yet for sound deadening? I'm having trouble with removing the door window switch panel. Fear I'm going to break it. Just seeing if there's a trick to it or not.
May just need to close my eyes and pry it up.