Sound deadening material applied to doors and back wall

[volksnuts]

Ooooo I am invested! Do you think instead of drilling holes, i could use mounting tape instead? Ive got a whole roll at home!

I am so confused at some of these replies
Feeling like people are just trolling

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[Delbert]

7k hz. It goes pretty high but leaves the sparkly notes to the tweeter. It may be an artifact of my testing so don't put much stock in it. I'm testing the speaker not the signal.

 

[bydabeach]

It's a shame

Lariat

It's a shame that for Lariat trim level, owners have to resort to doing their own sound proofing. My Lariat was $38K, which is not that much cheaper than my prior Audi Q5, and I am shocked at the road and wind noise in the cabin of the Maverick Lariat. It was so bad that I had to stuff bullet microphone foam windscreens behind the bluetooth microphone on the A post because people were complaining about the road/wind noise when I used the bluetooth microphone on phone calls.

 

[Ducky2022]

I added the front door panel speakers and the rears. All Infinity Reference. I'm kind of an audio guy and the factory tweeters sounded good . They have great imaging and flat response from about 1200hz to over 20,000 hz. You could do a lot worse. I'm not playing with it.

The factory door speakers sound reasonably good if you keep the volume below 14. If you turn up the volume, the sound gets progressively distorted. The factory speakers are also limited in their bass response. The Infinity's can handle all the head unit can throw at it and delivered bass down to 40 hz. It's not hiphop loud but it is there. The head unit has enough power to run the speakers without distortion louder than I will ever turn it up.

I did buy some Tympano speakers with magnets as big as the speaker. When I tested them they were true one note wonders. They played 2K hz really loud and nothing else. Don't judge a speaker by it's magnet.

The factory system has active crossovers in the head unit which means each speaker has its own set of wires. I tested it with an RTA (real time analyzer). The door speakers seem to be cut off above 7khz and the signal to the tweeters is cut off below 2k hz. This means the crossover supplied by Infinity would require new wiring from the door to the dash and if it really were already crossed over it would not work. I left it out.

The rear speakers have no signal below 250 hz which mean you cannot tap it for a subwoofer. The factory rears were awful and the Infinity's there were a big improvement. One dot of killmat went behind each rear speaker.

The system sounds really good. I originally planned a DSP amp and a powered sub under the seat but I really don't need it.

Now if I can only get that pedestrian warning sound shut off I can really do some cruising.

[/QUOTE]
The headunit doesn't have any active crossovers. My FiX82 saw a full range signal from just the front door speaker signal. I believe the factory tweeters had a high pass filter attached to it. The tweeter signal from the headunit is actually coming off the front door speaker wires. You can verify that from the speaker wire diagram.

The rear door speaker signal is full range too since others have tapped into it for their subwoofer amp. Another person on YouTube used the rear signal for additional tweeters. So its likely the rear speakers have a built-in high pass filter. I never upgraded mine so don't know for sure. I would guess you would want to protect those 4" speakers from playing bass notes. But maybe they just naturally roll off at 250hz?

Also no passive crossovers on the front door speaker wires inside dash since i had to used the factory speaker wire when going from amp to speaker. So another guess is that the front speakers naturally roll off at 7khz

I added the front door panel speakers and the rears. All Infinity Reference. I'm kind of an audio guy and the factory tweeters sounded good . They have great imaging and flat response from about 1200hz to over 20,000 hz. You could do a lot worse. I'm not playing with it.

The factory door speakers sound reasonably good if you keep the volume below 14. If you turn up the volume, the sound gets progressively distorted. The factory speakers are also limited in their bass response. The Infinity's can handle all the head unit can throw at it and delivered bass down to 40 hz. It's not hiphop loud but it is there. The head unit has enough power to run the speakers without distortion louder than I will ever turn it up.

I did buy some Tympano speakers with magnets as big as the speaker. When I tested them they were true one note wonders. They played 2K hz really loud and nothing else. Don't judge a speaker by it's magnet.

The factory system has active crossovers in the head unit which means each speaker has its own set of wires. I tested it with an RTA (real time analyzer). The door speakers seem to be cut off above 7khz and the signal to the tweeters is cut off below 2k hz. This means the crossover supplied by Infinity would require new wiring from the door to the dash and if it really were already crossed over it would not work. I left it out.

The rear speakers have no signal below 250 hz which mean you cannot tap it for a subwoofer. The factory rears were awful and the Infinity's there were a big improvement. One dot of killmat went behind each rear speaker.

The system sounds really good. I originally planned a DSP amp and a powered sub under the seat but I really don't need it.

Now if I can only get that pedestrian warning sound shut off I can really do some cruising.

The headunit doesn't have any active crossovers. My FiX82 saw a full range signal from just the front door speaker signal. I believe the factory tweeters had a high pass filter attached to it. The tweeter signal from the headunit is actually coming off the front door speaker wires. You can verify that from the speaker wire diagram.

The rear door speaker signal is full range too since others have tapped into it for their subwoofer amp. Another person on YouTube used the rear signal for additional tweeters. So its likely the rear speakers have a built-in high pass filter. I never upgraded mine so don't know for sure. I would guess you would want to protect those 4" speakers from playing sub bass notes. But maybe they just naturally roll off at 250hz?

Also no passive crossovers on the front door speaker wires inside dash since i had to used the factory speaker wire when going from amp to speaker. So another guess is that the factory front speakers naturally roll off at 7khz.

 

[Delbert]

When I replaced the door speakers there were only two wires to the speaker. Nothing going from there to the tweeter so I could not install the crossover supplied by the speaker manufacturer without running a new wire from the door speaker to the tweeter. I assume the tweeter wire comes straight from the head unit. That is what I am interpreting from the wiring diagram.

In any case, the system sounds really good the way it is right now.

The door speakers could roll off at 7k hz but I would prefer that they are crossed at about 2k. Which is about where I assume the Infinity would do it. I have seen factory systems that don't attenuate the door speakers much. The tweeters, however, would blow if they were getting that strong full frequency signal.

I saw on a forscan site that there are settings for the audio output of the head unit on other Ford vehicles. Could this be true for the Mav?

 

[Thagh0st]

@Stitchy do you know if 1/2" thick foam would be able to go in the door which out messing with the window?
I don't want to open my door till everything gets here and was just looking at how deep those pockets are on the door

 

[Stitchy]

@Stitchy do you know if 1/2" thick foam would be able to go in the door which out messing with the window?
I don't want to open my door till everything gets here and was just looking at how deep those pockets are on the door

There pretty deep, it won't bother the window. Just curious why so thick? Some people have done both sound deadening material in the inner metal part of the door and the closed cell foam on the inside of the door panels. I only did deadening material and it work perfectly for me

 

[Thagh0st]

There pretty deep, it won't bother the window. Just curious why so thick? Some people have done both sound deadening material in the inner metal part of the door and the closed cell foam on the inside of the door panels. I only did deadening material and it work perfectly for me

I am going to be doing the mega zorbe from second skin and wasn't sure if it would even fit, I already have the cld, mlv, and ccf just wondering if I needed more ccf or if I could get the bigger option.
I was gonna just do deadening but being in Texas I'm wanting a good insulator as well.

 

[PDM33]

I took my door card off on the passenger side because it rattled like hell with the B&O system. Lined it with the butyl and also put some closed cell foam on. Got rid of my door rattles, but I decided not to disturb the inner panel hiding the metal door skin. Wasn't sure how it came out and what box of worms I was opening or if I'd need to redo the gasket.

I took out the speaker instead and was able to reach my arm up in there pretty far. Got enough on the door skin that knocking it sounds much more solid than my other doors now. Now I just need to convince myself to do the rest of the doors and maybe the floor some day. i already did the rear under seat bins and back wall as those were the WORST with the factory sub vibrating them.

Did you take the sub out and insulate behind it or just do the wall around it?

 

[Strobe]

Did you take the sub out and insulate behind it or just do the wall around it?

I did not remove the sub. I didn’t do complete coverage of the back wall as it didn’t seem necessary. The under seat bins though needed a lot of help and additional foam in some spots.

 

[PDM33]

I did not remove the sub. I didn’t do complete coverage of the back wall as it didn’t seem necessary. The under seat bins though needed a lot of help and additional foam in some spots.

So what the backwall what was making all the noise because of the sub or the bins? Or both? haha

 

[Strobe]

So what the backwall what was making all the noise because of the sub or the bins? Or both? haha

The bins were actually rattling which was very audible. The rear wall I just tapped around to find where it need some dampener. Basically anywhere it’s flat without a bend nearby is where I placed the dampener, mostly down low on the wall. If I’m remembering correctly I was able to slide some of the dampener under the sub as it is mounted quite openly. Ford has some pre-applied in key spots as well, probably enough to get rid of the really bad spots. They just didn’t do a lot because of cost and weight I’m guessing.

 

[Last Truck Ever]

Much easier than expected. The doors are really easy to get into as long as you have the proper trim tools. The back wall was the biggest pain due to all the little cuts and shapes plus having to remove all the computers speaker and amp stuff. Here's a few pics. Absolutely no more rattling anywhere.

LOL, I'm moving from a 2008 Ford Ranger, the Mav's gonna seem like a quiet church in comparison!

 

[numike]

idk about this I never had a truck I want the sound

 

[Jmav2152]

I may look into doing this. I get slight vibrations on certain songs and frequencies that go away if I put a little pressure on the part of the door where the hidden back storage is. everything else has been great but that's my one little annoyance.

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