So, NO START this morning. What is it?

[Surly Old Bill]

Yours in a 2024 correct? 1-2 years old.. Motorcraft batteries are hit or miss. I've experienced Either infant mortality with several or 6+ years of use. The battery in my new Raptor suddenly died after ~5 months, zero warning, just suddenly one morning only 3-4 VDC. I had the dealer send their Mobile service guy who replaced it in my (safe) garage. The service experience was perfect. If you're is out of warranty just invest in a high quality battery.


good luck

.

Yes, '24, with about a year of ownership and 21k miles.
I went through two Ford replacement batteries in my Transit(not Connect) in the first year. After the first time and having to leave it with them for 4 days; at least they have me a ride home, the second battery failing in less than 6 months I simply bought a new one at Walmart for $100 and spent 15 minutes installing it instead of leaving my van with them for a week or so to get a "free" battery of dubious quality. I still have the 2015 T250, and only had to replace the Walmart battery after 7 years of use. Current battery currant is going strong.

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[Johnkn]

cuz online sellers say H5? Of course the OEM Battery doesn't have any size designation I can discern upside down on the label.

H5 is almost 1.5" longer than the stock H4 battery. There are threads here about fitment issues....


.

 

[Surly Old Bill]

End of day update:
After charging it up for an hour and disconnecting the charger, I drove it about a mile away to the Bay Trail to go for a run (6.25M with 4x800m @ 5k race pace). The CEL was on when I left the house, despite disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes to "clear" it. After the run, started it up and CEL was gone.
Once home again, I ran a scan with Torque Pro and there were no saved DTC.
Everything seems to be normal again.

Next diagnosis:
Check battery voltage this evening, compare it to battery voltage in the morning.
I'm tempted to disconnect the NEG terminal overnight to see if the battery drops voltage on it's own. That would rule out a phantom drain somewhere, and determine that it is the battery. I just talked myself into it.

 

[Cancunbadlands]

Battery toasted

 

[Surly Old Bill]

H5 is almost 1.5" longer than the stock H4 battery. There are threads here about fitment issues....


.

Reading this again, it both says H5 is correct AND says that H5 requires adjustments. Thanks, Robot Overlord. I don't know if I want to modify the battery tray to fit an H5, so I'll get an H4. I don't need higher capacity (amp hours).

asking what size battery, several sales sites like Autoparts stores and other retailers said H5.

And I got this reply from the Robotic Overlords:

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

The correct size is H4 unless you want to do modifications including, bending some metal and removing the plastic surround allowing you to install the larger H5 battery.
If you are planning on installing the battery yourself you may want to plan on getting one of these a magnetic socket from Amazon.
Amazon magnetic socket link

Give me a moment please..... this is going to be a long and involved post

Removing the battery clamp nut isn't the problem, but reinstalling it is.

As you can plainly see.
Even with the proper size H4 battery it's a tight fit.

When I eventually end up replacing my battery.
I don't know if I will remove the plastic surround or order a 10 mm magnetic socket. I would think it's harder to get the battery hold down clamp in the proper position with the plastic surround in place.

Then there is the process of making sure the new battery is charged 100% before doing the BMS relearn. This is something most places that install your battery probably will not do.
From the manual.

This is about as comprehensive a post as I can help you out with.
Good Luck.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

Reading this again, it both says H5 is correct AND says that H5 requires adjustments. Thanks, Robot Overlord. I don't know if I want to modify the battery tray to fit an H5, so I'll get an H4. I don't need higher capacity (amp hours).

asking what size battery, several sales sites like Autoparts stores and other retailers said H5.

And I got this reply from the Robotic Overlords:

The correct size is H4.
I just recently went through this.

 

[Prickly Pear]

My truck is new enough that there shouldn't be any problems. There haven't been any problems.

Out of the blue:
This morning I go to start it and I get a bunch of error messages on the dash, everything from front camera to traction assist and everything else. I check the 12v battery and it says 11.8vdc. I jump it with a jumpstarter and the engine turns on, so I assumed it was all to do with a low battery for some reason (Ford factory batteries don't have the best reputation, but I think there would be some previous warnings that it was going bad). The dash lights stay lit, including check engine, I get the "service soon" message.

I assumed this was because of a low battery and this stuff would clear itself after idling a while. Nope, I pull out of the driveway and am in "limp home mode".

WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this? Hopefully I don't have to go to a disservice center and leave it there for weeks until they get around to it.

Pretty much the same thing happened to me. Truck would not start after about a week of not driving. After a jump I had similar error messages as you did - was pretty sure the truck needed a new engine or transmission! Took it for a drive and only had limp mode - man that is a weird experience. Used my BT OBDII and CarScanner to clear all the codes and have never had a problem since. I also have never let my battery get that low again.

 

[Modesto]

Doesn't seem low enough - mine is living below that morning after morning - no complaints except max battery saver functions enabled.
No hidden or pending DTC's either.

You could at least limp to close car parts place - who will usually do a code read in the hopes they can sell you something.
They aren't supposed to do code clear though, understandably.

But at least gives a clue as to what is current, what is history, what is pending.
Could be after a few starts some will drop off, along with whatever is the reason to limp you.

Surly, this is a well known problem at Ford dealers. First, drop by the Service Department and speak with a Service Advisor that you've built a relationship with. If you haven't done that yet, do it ... someone you can work with in the future when things come up. Explain all this stuff to him or her. Then, make the appointment. This is the way I handled my 12V battery problem. When I brought it in, It took a couple of hours for them to test the battery then change it to a brand spankin new AGM. By the way, I had a back up plan. Thanks to postings here, I had an AGM selected on AMAZON for a whole lot less than $200, under $150 in fact.

 

[ChuckT]

My truck is new enough that there shouldn't be any problems. There haven't been any problems.

Out of the blue:
This morning I go to start it and I get a bunch of error messages on the dash, everything from front camera to traction assist and everything else. I check the 12v battery and it says 11.8vdc. I jump it with a jumpstarter and the engine turns on, so I assumed it was all to do with a low battery for some reason (Ford factory batteries don't have the best reputation, but I think there would be some previous warnings that it was going bad). The dash lights stay lit, including check engine, I get the "service soon" message.

I assumed this was because of a low battery and this stuff would clear itself after idling a while. Nope, I pull out of the driveway and am in "limp home mode".

WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this? Hopefully I don't have to go to a disservice center and leave it there for weeks until they get around to it.

Have dealt with the same issues. Battery low voltage is the issue. Have charged the battery but doesn't seem to hold charge.

 

[surfstar]

Never had that problem with my Ecoboost

Tempting fate.

 

[Timothyd]

My truck is new enough that there shouldn't be any problems. There haven't been any problems.

Out of the blue:
This morning I go to start it and I get a bunch of error messages on the dash, everything from front camera to traction assist and everything else. I check the 12v battery and it says 11.8vdc. I jump it with a jumpstarter and the engine turns on, so I assumed it was all to do with a low battery for some reason (Ford factory batteries don't have the best reputation, but I think there would be some previous warnings that it was going bad). The dash lights stay lit, including check engine, I get the "service soon" message.

I assumed this was because of a low battery and this stuff would clear itself after idling a while. Nope, I pull out of the driveway and am in "limp home mode".

WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this? Hopefully I don't have to go to a disservice center and leave it there for weeks until they get around to it.

How did you check it? With the battery still connected to the truck? Yeah, the 'no start' is a terrible feeling. How old is your Mav?

 

[SafetyGuy]

Have dealt with the same issues. Battery low voltage is the issue. Have charged the battery but doesn't seem to hold charge.

Good day

If you are also having battery troubles, and with only this info to go on, I would strongly recommend following the steps given in post #21 above!

Depending on your battery health, getting your truck to relearn what a full battery looks like and then getting it to recharge to that level is important.

My next query is have you had it in to have all the updates done...lots of coverage on this in previous threads.

If you are having intermittent sudden battery drain down happening over night for example, definitely have it in to your dealer as they can try to update your modules etc to desl with this problem.

If you believe your current battery is too far gone, you can have it tested/load tested to confirm...or have it replaced...and then make sure the steps as per Glen's post #21 above are carried out...fully charge (with an appropriate AGM compatible charger of at least 4-5 amps capacity) the new battery, install it as per the manuals directions and follow the process for the truck to learn you have a new battery and what it's charge level is!

Far better to be pro-active with battery maintenance then getting stuck somewhere.

Might be a good idea to tuck a LI battery booster under your back seat just in case. I know I carry one.

I hope you don't mind this bit of unsolicited thoughts, and have a nice day!

Andy

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

The correct size is H4 unless you want to do modifications including, bending some metal and removing the plastic surround allowing you to install the larger H5 battery.
If you are planning on installing the battery yourself you may want to plan on getting one of these a magnetic socket from Amazon.
Amazon magnetic socket link


Give me a moment please..... this is going to be a long and involved post

Removing the battery clamp nut isn't the problem, but reinstalling it is.

Even with the proper size H4 battery it's a tight fit

I don't know if I will remove the plastic surround or order a 10 mm magnetic socket. I would think it's harder to get the battery hold down clamp in the proper position with the plastic surround.

Then there is the process of making sure the new battery is charged 100% before doing the BMS relearn. This is something most places that install your battery probably will not do.
From the manual.

This is about as comprehensive a post as I can help you out with.
Good Luck.

All that is written, yes.
In mine I left the battery OUT of the truck for 12 hours. Put it in.
Did nothing else. And it relearned everything instantly.
The 12 hours without power seemed to do the same reset. At a minimum made it forget what it previously knew.

If lacking a magnetic socket or using stainless hardware, a sliver of tape in the socket works just as well.

 

[Mr.EdzBluMav]

I went out to swap places with my Transit(not Connect) behind the driveway gates so I could tinker with the Mav. NOW it isn't in LHM, the xmas tree of warnings stopped, but the CEL is still on. I have Torque app, so I'll scan it to see what's up, but the app and OBD dongle have had a hard time connecting lately, so that's another can of worms.

I am currently charging the 12v battery in place, and the auto charger is running at 16 amps, which is usually a sign of a very low battery. I'm going to guess that the Ford battery died a sudden death instead of a slow failure getting worse over the matter of weeks.

My battery was replaced in March, almost exactly 2 years/25k old.
Under warranty.

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