Longevity, or First thing TO-DO when received new Maverick!

[SuperDave71]

I thought that the 2.5L was Sequential Mass Fuel Injection (port injection)?

You’re correct, and being so the catch can isn’t needed. Additionally, catch cans tend to be used in higher reving engines, I’ve not seen my hybrid gas engine go close to 3000.

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[s.ober]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. I changed my first oil at 200 miles - glad I did. it was full of metal sparking particles. Main reason why i change is that I don't like the fact that ford is putting small oil filter and semi-synthetic oil blend vs. full synthetic oil and full size filter. After initial oil change sequential oil change will be done every 5-6k miles or 100 hours of engine operation. (oil used: Pennzoil Platinum 0-w20 with one 3/4 quarter of 5-w30 Engine works more smoother and much quitter) Cost $35. time 30 min.
2. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hours
3. Sprayed with anticorrosion oil all ground terminals to prevent premature oxidation and corrosion. Bad ground may cause unwanted error codes. cost $2. time 10 min.
4. Oil Catch Can. Since this is hybrid engine that starts and stops often, I added Oil Catch can to prevent carbon buildup on engine valves. cost $35, time 1 hour.
5. I will change all liquids in summer when i reach 15-20k. coolant, brake fluid, differential and transmission oil. After initial change i will be changing liquid again after 80k or 3 years. cost assumption $ 150 time assumption 3 hours.

I am not mentioning mod that i have added: cruise control, lighting etc. this thread about longevity. Please add items you think that may add longevity to ford Maverick. Thank you in advance!

Ford recommends 150k on transmission fluid, but on the two Prius' I had there was no dipstick in the transmission and the fluid never needed to be changed as the CVT's have no clutches. Just thought that was interesting.

 

[mavmav]

I thought that the 2.5L was Sequential Mass Fuel Injection (port injection)?

i actually had to google the difference. do you want to say that Sequential Mass Fuel Injection will have cleaner burn, less carbon buildup ?

 

[mavmav]

Some clarification and math on oil change. Below is the reasoning why i chose to change oil based on hours vs miles driven.

1. let's assume my driving speed is averaging 60 mpg. Therefore, i can drive 6000 miles in 100 hours.
2. Second assumption: let's assume my driving speed is averaging 30 mpg. (NYC Traffic, rush hours etc.) Therefore, i can drive 6000 miles in 200 hours.
Question: should i change my oil based on miles i drive or based on hours i drive.?
In my opinion, changing oil as per time is much more accurate vs miles driven. in traffic and slow driving engine wears faster. more load on stop and go traffic vs. highway smooth driving. i hope this will makes sense without going into details.

 

[whitef]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. I changed my first oil at 200 miles - glad I did. it was full of metal sparking particles. Main reason why i change is that I don't like the fact that ford is putting small oil filter and semi-synthetic oil blend vs. full synthetic oil and full size filter. After initial oil change sequential oil change will be done every 5-6k miles or 100 hours of engine operation. (oil used: Pennzoil Platinum 0-w20 with one 3/4 quarter of 5-w30 Engine works more smoother and much quitter) Cost $35. time 30 min.
2. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hours
3. Sprayed with anticorrosion oil all ground terminals to prevent premature oxidation and corrosion. Bad ground may cause unwanted error codes. cost $2. time 10 min.
4. Oil Catch Can. Since this is hybrid engine that starts and stops often, I added Oil Catch can to prevent carbon buildup on engine valves. cost $35, time 1 hour.
5. I will change all liquids in summer when i reach 15-20k. coolant, brake fluid, differential and transmission oil. After initial change i will be changing liquid again after 80k or 3 years. cost assumption $ 150 time assumption 3 hours.

I am not mentioning mod that i have added: cruise control, lighting etc. this thread about longevity. Please add items you think that may add longevity to ford Maverick. Thank you in advance!

We have a lot of experience with high mileage vehicles, so have a few comments.

Preface: I do not plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. That would be somewhere between 400,000 and 500,000 miles. I like my Maverick, but I don't think it has that in it.

1. I have an EB Maverick, and replaced the factory oil at 1500 miles, then again at 5000, and will use a 5000 miles interval going forward. I sent samples to the lab at 1500 and 10000. I'll check it again at 30000 (its almost due for 20000 now). The lab results confirm that the motor is wearing in normally, that the oil is the correct viscosity for the application, and that there is ample life left in the oil when changed (I'm changing it well before necessary). I added a magnetic drain plug at the first change in case there are any lingering scraps in there (it IS a Ford after all). The takeaway here is: Guessing how well your lubricants are performing is silly when a lab test is so easy and cheap.*

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Other oil notes.

1a. The Hybrid is NOT a GDI turbo as my EB is. The GDI turbo design inherently builds carbon. Keeping clean oil in it minimizes (not eliminates) this. Carbon shouldn't be a big deal in your hybrid unless you just really do no maintenance.
1b. After dozens of oil reports on dozens of cars, it's clear that there simply isn't a big difference between "types" of oil. The main thing is change it often enough.
1c. If you're older,; as I am, the urge to second guess the manufacturer's specifications for oil viscosity is strong. We all put a bit heavier oil in pushrod motors to quiet down the valve train as it aged. Those days are over. Modern engines are built to much tighter tolerances, and the fluids the maker specified are what should go in it. You are more likely to be damaging the motor by experimenting with viscosity than any thing else you've mentioned.
1d. Miles all the way.

2. No comment. I live in Kansas and drive through cattle yards, which means frequent washing.

3. Same as 2.

4. Oil catch cans are fun. It's unlikely that it'll change your experience, but for a few $$ why not? Won't make it worse either.

5. I plan to follow a more European schedule for the rest of it. Mine is FWD, so will do the trans at 30000 (with analysis) and brake fluid after 24 months (in service date 6/24/22). The rest is wear items that will just get swapped as necessary.

You car has a CVT. I have never owned; nor will I ever own, a CVT equipped vehicle. This is a personal preference. That said, I have two mechanics that I trust who swear by 30k CVT fluid refreshes. I don't know that Ford's official guidance is, but most manufactures are on the 'lifetime fill.' This may just be a way to sell more cars, or at least CVTs.

Wishing you all the best with your Maverick.

*I do not have any affiliation with Blackstone Labs apart from being their customer for quite a long time now.

 

[mavmav]

We have a lot of experience with high mileage vehicles, so have a few comments.

Preface: I do not plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. That would be somewhere between 400,000 and 500,000 miles. I like my Maverick, but I don't think it has that in it.

1. I have an EB Maverick, and replaced the factory oil at 1500 miles, then again at 5000, and will use a 5000 miles interval going forward. I sent samples to the lab at 1500 and 10000. I'll check it again at 30000 (its almost due for 20000 now). The lab results confirm that the motor is wearing in normally, that the oil is the correct viscosity for the application, and that there is ample life left in the oil when changed (I'm changing it well before necessary). I added a magnetic drain plug at the first change in case there are any lingering scraps in there (it IS a Ford after all). The takeaway here is: Guessing how well your lubricants are performing is silly when a lab test is so easy and cheap.*

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Other oil notes.

1a. The Hybrid is NOT a GDI turbo as my EB is. The GDI turbo design inherently builds carbon. Keeping clean oil in it minimizes (not eliminates) this. Carbon shouldn't be a big deal in your hybrid unless you just really do no maintenance.
1b. After dozens of oil reports on dozens of cars, it's clear that there simply isn't a big difference between "types" of oil. The main thing is change it often enough.
1c. If you're older,; as I am, the urge to second guess the manufacturer's specifications for oil viscosity is strong. We all put a bit heavier oil in pushrod motors to quiet down the valve train as it aged. Those days are over. Modern engines are built to much tighter tolerances, and the fluids the maker specified are what should go in it. You are more likely to be damaging the motor by experimenting with viscosity than any thing else you've mentioned.
1d. Miles all the way.

2. No comment. I live in Kansas and drive through cattle yards, which means frequent washing.

3. Same as 2.

4. Oil catch cans are fun. It's unlikely that it'll change your experience, but for a few $$ why not? Won't make it worse either.

5. I plan to follow a more European schedule for the rest of it. Mine is FWD, so will do the trans at 30000 (with analysis) and brake fluid after 24 months (in service date 6/24/22). The rest is wear items that will just get swapped as necessary.

You car has a CVT. I have never owned; nor will I ever own, a CVT equipped vehicle. This is a personal preference. That said, I have two mechanics that I trust who swear by 30k CVT fluid refreshes. I don't know that Ford's official guidance is, but most manufactures are on the 'lifetime fill.' This may just be a way to sell more cars, or at least CVTs.

Wishing you all the best with your Maverick.

*I do not have any affiliation with Blackstone Labs apart from being their customer for quite a long time now.

Thank you, I am familiar with Blackstone Labs but I have never send oil to analyzes. agree with magnetic plug. do you know what magnetic plug size is there? what would be your suggestion on eCVT oil change? every 30k?

 

[mavmav]

Regarding eCVT transmission: Manual says 150k with normal use or 30k if extreme use. I plan to do first transmission oil change at 30k and following at 100k. at 30k i will send it in for analysis. it doesn't take much time to change trans oil. cost about $100

 

[whitef]

Thank you, I am familiar with Blackstone Labs but I have never send oil to analyzes. agree with magnetic plug. do you know what magnetic plug size is there? what would be your suggestion on eCVT oil change? every 30k?

I have the package in the shop. Next time I'm down there I'll get the plug dimensions, but they will be for a EB. Your plug may be different.

 

[whitef]

Regarding eCVT transmission: Manual says 150k with normal use or 30k if extreme use. I plan to do first transmission oil change at 30k and following at 100k. at 30k i will send it in for analysis. it doesn't take much time to change trans oil. cost about $100

Again, I don't have any direct experience with CVTs, but two mechanics that I use for everything including full engine swaps recommend 30k fluid changes. Your mileage may vary.

 

[ejouie]

i actually had to google the difference. do you want to say that Sequential Mass Fuel Injection will have cleaner burn, less carbon buildup ?

It will mix the fuel with air through a port in the intake manifold. This allows for fuel to pass through the intake valve. Fuel is a bit of a solvent and mimimizes carbon buildup. Its what was used in the 90s/early 2000s before direct injection.

 

[Hardening2753]

Ethanol does contribute to carbon build-up, but cars nowadays are engineered with that in mind. Most of the vehicles that require ethanol-free fuel are those that were built before ethanol became a thing.

I do like the idea of an early oil change. I didn't do that with the Escape but I don't think I have had any negative outcomes. The rest of your list doesn't really apply in the deep South or with the EB but sounds like a smart play.

I would love to see other ideas people have.

The EB is direct injection so a catch can would help there to lower intake valve carbon build up. Since the hybrid is port injection, high quality fuel with the occasional fuel cleaner additive should keep them good.

 

[Sliphorn]

You’re correct, and being so the catch can isn’t needed. Additionally, catch cans tend to be used in higher reving engines, I’ve not seen my hybrid gas engine go close to 3000.

..
Right, a catch can on the hybrid is completely unnecessary. A can of BG Products Platinum 44K for hybrids or BG CF5 every 10,000 miles in the fuel does a great job of keeping things clean and tidy. I run a tank full using the CF5 before every oil change.
..
..

 

[wax87]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. I changed my first oil at 200 miles - glad I did. it was full of metal sparking particles. Main reason why i change is that I don't like the fact that ford is putting small oil filter and semi-synthetic oil blend vs. full synthetic oil and full size filter. After initial oil change sequential oil change will be done every 5-6k miles or 100 hours of engine operation. (oil used: Pennzoil Platinum 0-w20 with one 3/4 quarter of 5-w30 Engine works more smoother and much quitter) Cost $35. time 30 min.
2. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hours
3. Sprayed with anticorrosion oil all ground terminals to prevent premature oxidation and corrosion. Bad ground may cause unwanted error codes. cost $2. time 10 min.
4. Oil Catch Can. Since this is hybrid engine that starts and stops often, I added Oil Catch can to prevent carbon buildup on engine valves. cost $35, time 1 hour.
5. I will change all liquids in summer when i reach 15-20k. coolant, brake fluid, differential and transmission oil. After initial change i will be changing liquid again after 80k or 3 years. cost assumption $ 150 time assumption 3 hours.

I am not mentioning mod that i have added: cruise control, lighting etc. this thread about longevity. Please add items you think that may add longevity to ford Maverick. Thank you in advance!

what about painting the calipers or adding grease between the rims and the spindles, keep corrosion out?

 

[mavmav]

I respectfully disagree regarding NOT to install oil catch can. Oil Catch can is a cheap insurance . an hour of work and $30. in my maverick hybrid in about 400 miles i collected about 10 ml (milliliters ) of sludge (yellow water with oil). otherwise, it would go to the piston via airflow sensor and then to engine cylinder to recycle / reburn. This recycling method is mandated by EPA and automakers had to came up with some decision to get rid of backpressure from the engine by recycling "bad exhaust" Before this EPA mandate engine pressure was vented outside to atmosphere. Therefore, based what i saw on my mav. hybrid i think it is a good option to put oil catch can for longevity of the engine and to prevent carb buildup and premature airflow sensor failure, especially on hybrid engines.
Hybrid engine when it is cold and you are in traffic condition is starting and stopping often. it may run on electrical drive for 1-10 min at the time. I think, (my opinion) stop/go is contributes to extra condensation in engine oil because of rapid temperature change. The water eventually had to escape somehow. there is only one way for a water escape through the breather tube. Therefore, breather tube has to go through the catch can or to atmosphere (removing all environmental factors from above argument and concentrating on engine longevity, i am not advocating breather tube to atmosphere method! )

 

[mavmav]

painting the calipers or adding grease between the rims and the spindles

Adding Grease between the rims is a good thing. i had my older f150 brake cylinder failed because of corrosion at the cylinder spindles. good thing! thank you!

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