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Hybrid underhood battery terminals -- photos & video

Hot Runr Guy

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It's like how I learned to disconnect the negative terminal first when removing a battery. Had an 60 VW with the battery under the back seat. Put my wrench on the positive terminal nut and rotated it till it hit the seat frame. Lots of sparks and lesson learned!
I learned that lesson when the watch I was wearing shorted out on a Ford fender-mounted solenoid,,,,,,,,

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Glen Baker LLC

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It's like how I learned to disconnect the negative terminal first when removing a battery. Had an 60 VW with the battery under the back seat. Put my wrench on the positive terminal nut and rotated it till it hit the seat frame. Lots of sparks and lesson learned!
Yep
I learned negative first, negative last from the internet. Not my dad. My dad had no idea there was a correct way and he had been jump starting cars since the 40's. You hear all the anecdotal stories, 'I've done it this way for 100 years without a problem.' 'Therefore that's got to be the way.'
Just because someone's been doing something without anything bad happening, doesn't mean that it's the correct or safe way.

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HeyBales

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It's like how I learned to disconnect the negative terminal first when removing a battery. Had an 60 VW with the battery under the back seat. Put my wrench on the positive terminal nut and rotated it till it hit the seat frame. Lots of sparks and lesson learned!
Now see that's a simple tip, and I wouldn't be surprised if not included on those silly little video clips of tips on different car subjects for young new car owners.

But especially the why of the matter.
Especially in the days of more gases being released from the battery, that's when I learned about it from dad. Sealed batteries now it shouldn't be as problematic.
Except for abused batteries that may have gotten a crack or venting more than spec'd.
So still a wise tip.
 

EffNo50

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Starting the Engine
  1. Start the engine of the booster vehicle and moderately rev the engine, or gently press the accelerator to keep the engine speed between 2000 and 3000 RPM, as shown in your tachometer.
  2. Start the engine of the disabled vehicle.
  3. Once you start the disabled vehicle, run both vehicle engines for an additional three minutes before disconnecting the jumper cables.
Removing the Jumper Cables
Remove the jumper cables in the reverse order that they were connected.
Note: Do not switch the headlamps on when disconnecting the cables. The peak voltage could blow the bulbs.
From my time selling auto parts, the alternator reps would not approve of the steps above. In the 80's when vehicles started getting 70+ amp alternators they recommended turning off the booster vehicle before starting the disabled one so the alternators weren't both charging at the same time. It was supposedly bad for the diodes. I'd run the booster for a bit to charge the connected batteries, then turn off the booster and start the disabled.

Also don't disconnect the battery cable while it's running to test if it's charging...also bad for the diodes in the alternator. Worked fine in the days of generators, before alternators.
 
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jgz1994

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There been many posts regarding using the under hood battery terminals for tricklecharging and jumpstarting, etc.

I took a couple pictures and a short video to aid those who may be looking for these two rascals for the first time. Hope this helps.

The video demonstrates how to open the positive terminal cap.

note: just in case it’s not self-explanatory the connector with the black X over it is one that should not be used for anything other than looking at it wondering what it is.

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IMG_2838.jpeg
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Hi there. So you say it should be self explanatory to NOT use the post under the black X cap. Can I ask why?

Reason I ask is because I just installed the Diode Dynamics fog lights and that’s exactly where they say to put the positive lead from their harness. So are they doing it wrong?

IMG_0433.webp


 

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boatman

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I ordered my fog lights 2 months ago. I know they were on back order, how long is anyone on here been waiting?
 

JimG-24

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NICE INFORMATION, THANKS !
 

Hybrid25XLTAWD

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Sorry if this isn't the right place, but considering this post is with regards to power & grounding options, thought I'd throw this question out in this post:

I've got a wireless SPOD light controller I'll be using & all the wires basically consist of positive & negative leads coming from the main controller unit...last thing I want to do is to cause/compound any existing battery issues with hooking things up the wrong way.

the red capped positive terminal & the grounding stud should be the attachment points for the controller, correct?
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