How to Slow-Gentle-Pulse-Glide Your Way to a 51 MPG Average (Hybrid)

[GPSMan]

Would it be possible with Forscan to reprogram a mode like Eco to 0 seconds or 0% recharge? (On throttle lift off, let off the go pedal and you just coast no Regen)

Or create a mode? Give the hybrid mud/ruts or sand and program it to 0 seconds or 0% recharge? It's too bad there's not a factory hyper mile mode that allows this behavior and coasting.

You could add Ford modes that are Ford native programming. But make your own? I'd bet on No.

To coast with no regen you CAN shift to simulated neutral and back to drive at any speed. It does no harm. Just remember if any surprises come up, you won't be able to accelerate.

"Neutral" deliberately in quotes is only a software state that means generate no power and send no power to the wheels (and ignore the go pedal).

Sponsored

 

[RatherBeDrivingaManual]

But make your own? I'd bet on No.

It makes me so crosseyed staring at the end coach to keep it in coast. Any suggestions?

 

[tom_tucker]

Too stressful. I finally turned all that shit off this weekend and kept the digital speedometer on. I'm much happier now. I'm hypermiling more that 99% of the drivers around me and only managing 41 MPG over 4500 miles. Normal mode only. After reading this, maybe I'll use ECO on the highway, but no more watching it in real time. Enough is enough. Finding a good quality cheap gas station is also an underrated factor.

 

[JimParker256]

And that, kids, is how you take the fun out of driving.

Well, since you drive an Ecoboost, I can understand your comment. The EcoBeast is fun, Fun, FUN to drive hard - but you do pay for that fun. I decided I couldn't afford the speeding tickets and tire wear (not to mention gas) that kind of "spirited" driving seems to bring with it (at least for me).

Many Hybrid drivers enjoy the challenge of optimizing our hybrid mileage just as much as we used to enjoy finding the perfect line and brake-point for maximizing cornering speeds, then accelerating "briskly" onto the straights... It's just a "different" kind of driving challenge.

Both can be fun, but only one saves you money. And the older I get, the more enjoyment I get from the latter... Go figure!

 

[jsus]

Would it be possible with Forscan to reprogram a mode like Eco to 0 seconds or 0% recharge? (On throttle lift off, let off the go pedal and you just coast no Regen)

Or create a mode? Give the hybrid mud/ruts or sand and program it to 0 seconds or 0% recharge? It's too bad there's not a factory hyper mile mode that allows this behavior and coasting.

Sure, if you could reverse engineer the actual software code in the relevant modules. Or if you worked for Ford and had access to the source code, and the relevant knowledge to flash the modules. To oversimplify it, you'd need to be a pretty good hacker and write an entirely new drive mode from scratch. It's not as simple as pulling up FORScan and "switching" Eco mode to 0% regen.

Anything is possible but few people would have the skills to pull it off. You're really just limited to the drive modes Ford has provided, and enabling those that you don't have by default.

 

[JimParker256]

I wonder why Ford told me to only use the Driving modes for the intended condition.

I would bet that is a "lawyer-generated" statement to avoid issues where someone is using Sport Mode on glare ice, and blames Ford for their ensuing crash (loss of control). After all, what would be the "intended condition" for Sport Mode?

Is slippery mode doing anything to the engine or transmission tune that would hurt it on dry pavement?

Absolutely not. All it's doing is changing the ratio between accelerator press force/distance and % power delivered (slower ramp-up of power as you depress the pedal), and reducing the regen force when off-throttle. Both are intended to avoid breaking traction between the wheels and road surface during slippery conditions. The fact that this allows you to coast MUCH farther at any given speed is a happy by-product (for improving efficiency). Another happy by-product is that reducing the rate of acceleration requested from a given degree of accelerator pedal "push" means that the electric motor is more likely to be engaged (when HVBattery is sufficiently charged) because you're not making an "instant power" demand that can only be satisfied by the ICE.

Learning to use / optimize driving using Slippery Mode was a game-changer for me. I went from averaging 38 mpg to averaging 48 mpg (with 20-25% highway driving at 65-ish mph), with a high of 51 mpg on one tank. And for the folks who feel like they are "staring at the EV Coach screen," it's good to know that you will quickly acquire a "feel" for how much you can accelerate (and when) to optimize mpg, without staring at the gauge. I glance at the gauge to quickly evaluate my "state of charge" (blue bar outline length), and that's about it in normal driving.

It takes a LOT more power (ICE or Electric energy) to accelerate to speed than it does to maintain that speed. On relatively level ground, I routinely and intentionally engage the ICE to accelerate from stops, though I try to limit the power to 20% or so. If I'm in heavy traffic, I may use 25 or even 30%, but I rarely find I need any more than that to blend with the surrounding traffic. When I accelerate, I try to go just a bit (1-2 mph) over the speed I intend to drive, to allow a complete throttle lift (which disengages the ICE), and slowly feed in the accelerator until only the EV mode engages, and feather the throttle to maintain my desired speed.

In hybrid driving, extending the time you spend coasting (using zero energy from the ICE or HVB - and even returning a small amount of power to the HVB) is the closest thing we've got to a "free lunch." I'm often amazed at how far the Maverick will coast on level ground, and even the slightest decline will extend that almost indefinitely. Once at my "cruising" speed, I basically allow the truck to coast a bit, then use a brief applications of EV power to bring the speed back up to my target, then coast again. Doing at speeds below about 50 mph results in phenomenal mpg (I've seen upwards of 65 mpg doing this). But eventually the HVB discharges to the state where the ICE will engage to recharge it, regardless of whether you need ICE power for the road conditions. I use anticipate this by monitoring the length of the blue box (and the solid blue bar inside it) to feather the throttle pedal so as to avoid engaging the ICE to maintain speed up a small hill when I know I've got a longer uphill coming up shortly that will absolutely require ICE usage, and thus recharge the HVB for the next EV usage. I'll intentionally allow the speed to slightly decay on that uphill, knowing it will take less EV power (thus energy from the HVB) to maintain speed going down that hill. Once I get down to "no EV power available" (blue box basically disappears), the ICE engages to both power the truck up that hill, and to recharge the HVB.

As @GPSMan recommends, I try to avoid using mechanical brakes (friction) by slowing smoothly - well before the projected stopping point. This has been much harder for me to learn to do consistently, as I grew up driving underpowered British sports cars that generally had good brakes and handling, but lousy acceleration. The way I learned to drive fast was to brake late and hard, which is absolutely NOT good for efficiency. So I definitely glance at the EV Coach (turned brake-coach) to try to stay right at the end of the green bar (max regen braking) without getting any "white bar" (friction brake). If you come to a complete stop (which I try to do only at stop signs and red lights), it gives you a "braking efficiency" score (% of potential regen braking you achieved, versus what the vehicle thinks was achievable under optimal conditions). I've slowly increased that from around 50% when I first started paying attention to it, to averaging better than 90%, except for those unavoidable situations or emergencies, where the only thing that matters is safety - efficiency be damned!

 

[GPSMan]

^^^ The only thing I can add to above is:

It's more difficult to explain than to do!

Usually passengers are oblivious and other drivers are too.

 

[GPSMan]

Great still frame from a YouTube video Professor John Kelly produced at Weber State University.
From a Rav4 Hybrid that is nearly identical to the Maverick Hybrid.

Peak Engine Efficiency is:

Between 1700 and 3200 RPM (center 2450 being about ideal).

Producing between 25kW (33 HP) and 65kW (86 HP).

Producing between 140Nm (103 lb/ft) and 190Nm (140 lb/ft) of torque.

So instinct follow suit here.
Accelerating briskly with the engine is a tad more efficient than (babying it) coming away from a full stop.

The ponies in the engine want to pull.
This is your "pulse" or scientifically speaking, your impulse.

You'll get some battery charging during the impulse also. So then when you hit desired speed, use up that stored battery energy. Because driving around with a full battery is like driving around with a full bucket of water when you're thirsty.

 

[RatherBeDrivingaManual]

I's more difficult to explain than to do!

Thanks everyone, @jsus @JimParker256 & @GPSMan, great discussion.


#1 I wonder if we can enable Sand mode on the Hybrid with Forscan & if that would provide 0 lift off regen.

#2 can we all collectively submit feedback & ask Ford for a hyper mile mode that would be designed for achieving +50mpg.

 

[RatherBeDrivingaManual]

Thanks everyone, @jsus @JimParker256 & @GPSMan, great discussion.


#1 I wonder if we can enable Sand mode on the Hybrid with Forscan & if that would provide 0 lift off regen. In sand you would never want to loose momentum.

#2 can we all collectively submit feedback & ask Ford for a hyper mile mode that would be designed for achieving +50mpg.

 

[ZZbuggs]

Well, since you drive an Ecoboost, I can understand your comment. The EcoBeast is fun, Fun, FUN to drive hard - but you do pay for that fun. I decided I couldn't afford the speeding tickets and tire wear (not to mention gas) that kind of "spirited" driving seems to bring with it (at least for me).

Many Hybrid drivers enjoy the challenge of optimizing our hybrid mileage just as much as we used to enjoy finding the perfect line and brake-point for maximizing cornering speeds, then accelerating "briskly" onto the straights... It's just a "different" kind of driving challenge.

Both can be fun, but only one saves you money. And the older I get, the more enjoyment I get from the latter... Go figure!

whenever I try to be sarcastically funny, I get put in my place. Well done. In the end, we both drive Mavs and we're both having fun doing it. so it's a win-win........

 

[Derwood]

Please share your results if you install a tonneau cover. According to Mythbusters its no more efficient than tailgate up driving.

Well, due to less wind resistance logic dictates that fuel mileage should improve if even slightly.

 

[GPSMan]

Well, due to less wind resistance logic dictates that fuel mileage should improve if even slightly.

The (false) assumption it is reduces wind drag.

But ponder:

Which has more friction?

A cover? Or nothing?

 

[Derwood]

The (false) assumption it is reduces wind drag.

But ponder:

Which has more friction?

A cover? Or nothing?

Well, if the tailgate is closed with no cover it's fair to assume it would act as at least a bit of a catcher no? Not disagreeing with you but now you've got me curious. I'm going to see if I can find a wind tunnel test for this both ways. Lol

 

[AF Blue]

The (false) assumption it is reduces wind drag.

But ponder:

Which has more friction?

A cover? Or nothing?

....and ..which weighs more? A cover or nothing?

Sponsored