TacoHolder

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The fuse tap method has always been my go-to for dash cams, but I noticed that Ford's dash cam kit includes an ODB splitter and a PAC IGN-3 to hard wire using the ODB port. Could be a very clean install if you can get everything tucked away.
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minitab

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It just has the traditional plastic pop tabs. Just slowly tug on the edges and it comes right off. The only thing that took several minutes to accomplish was the reassembly . It popped on fine, but the rubber seal along the edge did take some finesse. I had to start at one end and work your way up/down to make sure the plastic side panel fit underneath the rubber door seal. I used my plastic orange tool to "flip" it back over on top one small inch at a time.
I would do another video showing this, but it did probably take about 15/20 minutes. I like where its at right now. lol
Thanks again, please keep the good work going. Have a great weekend!
 
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Obiewan54

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The fuse tap method has always been my go-to for dash cams, but I noticed that the Ford's dash cam kit includes an ODB splitter and a PAC IGN-3 to hard wire using the ODB port. Could be a very clean install if you can get everything tucked away.
For sure. I saw the adapter that they used via Thinkware ( I believe is the manufacturer). Easy plug in access. I wanted to save that option in case I wire that up as well. I think I'll be getting that in the next few months.
 

TacoHolder

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For sure. I saw the adapter that they used via Thinkware ( I believe is the manufacturer). Easy plug in access. I wanted to save that option in case I wire that up as well. I think I'll be getting that in the next few months.
Yessir. That harness + adapter part is a Thinkware/Echomaster HWK-TW01
 
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Obiewan54

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I'm looking to do option B but need a fuse with constant power to enable parking mode in a dashcam. I also plan on mounting behind the rear view mirror so this video is really helpful as it's halfway to what i'm looking to do.
You should still be able to use the Fuse Relay for constant power. Should just be a matter of find the correct Fuse relay to tap into.
 

Big Kahuna

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That little pop out through the firewall is golden - someone smart designed putting that there. Can't tell you how many cars over the years didn't have a good place to go through the firewall. I wire up my radios, subwoofers, ham radios, CBs etc myself and that will make it so much easier.
 

vezpa

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Hardwired radar detector next to a State Farm nanny box?
🤔
 
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uh50

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It just has the traditional plastic pop tabs. Just slowly tug on the edges and it comes right off. The only thing that took several minutes to accomplish was the reassembly . It popped on fine, but the rubber seal along the edge did take some finesse. I had to start at one end and work your way up/down to make sure the plastic side panel fit underneath the rubber door seal. I used my plastic orange tool to "flip" it back over on top one small inch at a time.
I would do another video showing this, but it did probably take about 15/20 minutes. I like where its at right now. lol
Great info for adding accessory wiring. Thanks!
 

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It would work...for usb devices. They also make splitters for 12 v sockets. Hard wiring eliminates issues with poor connections.
Most devices today have USB connection for a car.
 

[email protected]

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Awesome install!
BTW what is the white object you have mounted in your cubby next to the stereo?
not to sound stupid but what does the connection to #6 look like? Basically hw did you do that? Also #6 do you have those items it runs to?

Im looking to add a XM radio add on
 

Orb1T

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Whether you are looking to install a dash cam or radar detector, I've found this to be the "cleanest" install. Hope this helps for anyone looking to do the same.

Option A- Will show an easy solution to run power directly to the battery.
Option B- Will utilize the accessory power.

The fuse relay that I used was #6. This is the same fuse used for the DC Inverter, Sun Roof, and Rear Power Window.


do you have the link for the fuse tap? I order the mini and both seems bigger when trying to tap number 6 so I inserted side of fuse for now. Thanks
 

futzelman

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Hello. I wanted to add some learnings from my attempt to hard wire a Garmin Parking Mode Cable following the instructions posted by Obiewan. The first thing I noticed when trying to insert the in-line fuse into slot #6 is that there is no space initially to accommodate the in-line fuse. However I noticed from Obiewan picture that his in-line fuse looked somewhat twisted. So what I did is I removed the "whatever" was in the way, inserted the in-line fuse and then re inserted what I removed by pushing the in-line fuse gently upwards. So now my setup looks just like the pictures.
The last think I want to mention is that the crimps on the in-line fuses are not optimal because the cables on my parking mode cable where fairly thin so even though I crimped the heck out of them the cables would not stay in place. So I used these awesome splicing connectors from NoCo which are easy to use, no soldering or crimping. I can send pics if you like. Have fun!
 
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