First Oil Change challenges

[PawPaw]

Getting ready to do my first oil change, just wondering how many people have experienced overly tight oil filters and or drain plugs. Almost every new vehicle I have owned over the last 40 years, I have found the oil filters and drain plugs to be if anything a little under torqued tightened. Just preparing my self for a struggle or not ?

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[Toddman45]

I just changed mine at 3000 miles 2 weeks ago. I had no issues everything I checked was buttoned up snuggly. I've seen others post about loose nuts on the underside around the transmission area and whatnot. I checked everyone I could reach and they were all snug.

 

[Rwills]

Getting ready to do my first oil change, just wondering how many people have experienced overly tight oil filters and or drain plugs. Almost every new vehicle I have owned over the last 40 years, I have found the oil filters and drain plugs to be if anything a little under torqued tightened. Just preparing my self for a struggle or not ?

No problem just be careful tightened up cover screws, they will strip

 

[JimKivi]

Strongly suggest an oil filter removal wrench with a pivot for the handle. Remember to put a thin film of oil on the new filter. You will need a Torx wrench to remove the bottom fiber pan if it is like mine, and you might consider cutting a hole in that fiber pan and installing an access door. I used a marine hatch type. Also, an oil drain valve (and required spacer) with a tube is an option that I chose. I did not get the right angle one shown, but the one with a nipple that allows a tube. There is a little spacer fitting needed to allow installation on the 2.0.
Addendum...my bad, the above only applies to the 2.0, not the hybrid.

 

[McSwine]

I didn't have any issues with either, takes longer to remove the cover than it does to change the oil.

 

[BouseBill]

Jim, Which oil drain valve did you use? I see see several on the web.

 

[Tbone289]

I've had over-tightened factory filters on Fords before, some that I had to destroy to remove. That wasn't the case for my Maverick--both the filter than the drain plug were tightened to reasonable torque. I use a strap wrench to remove filters and that worked without issue.

FWIW, I always fill the new filter with oil, wet the gasket and use clear flood mode to prime the oil system before starting and checking for leaks.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

Getting ready to do my first oil change, just wondering how many people have experienced overly tight oil filters and or drain plugs. Almost every new vehicle I have owned over the last 40 years, I have found the oil filters and drain plugs to be if anything a little under torqued tightened. Just preparing my self for a struggle or not ?

No problem just be careful tightened up cover screws, they will strip

Considering there are 15 screws and nuts holding on the splash shield.
You may want to consider a small investment of extra splash shield screws, spring nuts and drain plug gaskets. Just in case.

 

[Okiedokie]

Just changed mine on my 2024 Lariat at 1600 miles, no problems at all.

 

[HeyBales]

My filter was over-torqued. Never have I done that, and prior new Mazda didn't have that, no used cars had that.

Was at my mom's doing other work and decided to throw 1st oil change in after engine 1K break-in miles where calculated to be reached.

Had strap wrench and it couldn't get it off. Too late to run up anywhere and oil out already.
Decided to leave that tiny thing for what appears will be a 10K change.
Picked up correct sized end cap at Walmart actually - hate single use tools like that, but ugh, fits 2 sizes at least.

 

[Tbone289]

For stuck filters, just hammer a long screwdriver through it from one side through the the other and crank it off. It's messy, but no new tools required.

 

[HeyBales]

For stuck filters, just hammer a long screwdriver through it from one side through the the other and crank it off. It's messy, but no new tools required.

Considering the strap wrench didn't have much travel room, I didn't see a long enough screwdriver having enough either, or I would have.
I figured the sheet metal was probably cheaper than average and wouldn't work either for limited distance.
I contemplated - but without my full set of tools if it went wrong - and not wanting to ask mom to borrow her car (did you hear that thunking?), I decided a battle for another day.

 

[CajunMick]

I have and used a giant channel lock pliers to handle them filters. good to have, use around the house too.

 

[Ozarkbeard]

My filter was over-torqued. Never have I done that, and prior new Mazda didn't have that, no used cars had that.

Was at my mom's doing other work and decided to throw 1st oil change in after engine 1K break-in miles where calculated to be reached.

Had strap wrench and it couldn't get it off. Too late to run up anywhere and oil out already.
Decided to leave that tiny thing for what appears will be a 10K change.
Picked up correct sized end cap at Walmart actually - hate single use tools like that, but ugh, fits 2 sizes at least.

When I used to do my own oil changes, I would always break the filter loose first, to make sure I could actually remove it. Then undo the plug and drain out the oil.

 

[Tbone289]

When I used to do my own oil changes, I would always break the filter loose first, to make sure I could actually remove it. Then undo the plug and drain out the oil.

Nice pro tip! When R&R'ing any fluid, the filler plug/cap is the first thing that should be removed, to ensure whatever happens later, fluid can be replaced. And as you mentioned in the case of engine oil, the filter should be removed before the drain for that reason.

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