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Factory Tires Sizes & Wheels Specs For 2022 Maverick: Width, Offset, Bolt Pattern, Center Bore, Thread Size, Weight

SgtLip

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You can continue to use the stock tires on those wheels. Most critical is that the wheel diameters are the same. Wheel width is a bit more flexible. In any case, you're fine with these 18"x8".

Those are nice looking wheels, but as I've posted before, I don't like wheels that have two sets of lug holes (notice that wheel has 10 holes). There are 5 holes at the bolt circle diameter for your Mav, and a second set at a different diameter. This is so they can sell one wheel for two different applications. But I find it annoying when doing a wheel swap (I change twice a year; summer/winter tires). I will buy only wheels with a single set of lug holes.
THANKS.
I saw the extra holes. I said to myself, that's weird and I'm not sure I like that. And then you confirmed what I was thinking. I figured if I stayed close to the 18x7.5 with the 18x8 it would work but I didn't understand the +40MM Offset. I'm not sure I understand what that is or how it affects the tire size.

Thanks
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If your Maverick is coming with 18" wheels and you are buying the new wheels in the same 18" size, you can just re-use the stock tires. Any tire shop will be able to swap over your original tires and TPMS to the new wheels. I believe Tire Rack includes hub-centric rings and proper lug nuts for the new wheels as well, so you should have everything you need to get them installed. If you decide to buy a different size of wheels, say 17" for example, you'd also need to buy new tires (225/65R17 or 235/65R17 are the factory offerings).

I'm planning to purchase an entire set from Tire Rack that includes wheels and tires, mounted and balanced with the TPMS in them. The last time I did this, it was super easy. The tires/wheels showed up, I swapped them onto my vehicle, listed my "take-off" set on craigslist and had them sold that following weekend.

Also, with aftermarket wheels, be sure to keep at least 5 of your original lug nuts in your Maverick. In the event you may need your spare, you'll need the OEM lug nuts to mount it. Usually the lug nuts for aftermarket wheels will not work with OEM wheels.
THANKS. I didn't know that about the lugs. That is definitely good to know info.
 

FirstFord

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THANKS.
I saw the extra holes. I said to myself, that's weird and I'm not sure I like that. And then you confirmed what I was thinking. I figured if I stayed close to the 18x7.5 with the 18x8 it would work but I didn't understand the +40MM Offset. I'm not sure I understand what that is or how it affects the tire size.

Thanks
offset is the distance between the mounting face of the wheel (back side) and the centerline of the wheel. So if you have a new wheel that's the same width as the original, then deviating from the stock offset will pull the wheel into the wheel well or push it out, depending on whether your new offset is more or less than stock.

Positive offset means the mounting is outside of centerline.
Negative offset means the mounting face is inside of centerline.

So if you increase offset from stock, you will push the wheel/tire out by the increase.

If you increase the wheel width, say by 1" (25mm), then you'd have to increase the offset by half that in order to keep the same centerline and distribute the additional width evenly inside and outside.

In the end a few mm is going to be pretty small. Risk of pulling the wheels in (less offset) is that you might rub inside somewhere. Risk of pushing out (more offset) is you throw up more debris on your paint.

As for fit, TireRack does a great job of assuring fit. If they say it will fit, it will work without rubbing.

Maverick stock offset on 17" wheels is 38mm. Just about every wheel you see has that or more. So you'd be pushing the wheel/tire out a bit which visually looks a little bit "chunkier" with no risk of rubbing.
 

SgtLip

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offset is the distance between the mounting face of the wheel (back side) and the centerline of the wheel. So if you have a new wheel that's the same width as the original, then deviating from the stock offset will pull the wheel into the wheel well or push it out, depending on whether your new offset is more or less than stock.

Positive offset means the mounting is outside of centerline.
Negative offset means the mounting face is inside of centerline.

So if you increase offset from stock, you will push the wheel/tire out by the increase.

If you increase the wheel width, say by 1" (25mm), then you'd have to increase the offset by half that in order to keep the same centerline and distribute the additional width evenly inside and outside.

In the end a few mm is going to be pretty small. Risk of pulling the wheels in (less offset) is that you might rub inside somewhere. Risk of pushing out (more offset) is you throw up more debris on your paint.

As for fit, TireRack does a great job of assuring fit. If they say it will fit, it will work without rubbing.

Maverick stock offset on 17" wheels is 38mm. Just about every wheel you see has that or more. So you'd be pushing the wheel/tire out a bit which visually looks a little bit "chunkier" with no risk of rubbing.
And the tire size doesn't matter (other than the diameter being 18") regardless of the offset?
Ford Maverick Factory Tires Sizes & Wheels Specs For 2022 Maverick: Width, Offset, Bolt Pattern, Center Bore, Thread Size, Weight Screen Shot 2021-10-18 at 15.56.12

I'm confused now. This say's "In this case, assuming that your original offset was zero, if you switch to a +40 offset rim, your wheel will be tucked in by 40 mm. The same applies to negative offset wheels.

So to keep the tire from rubbing, I want a Negative number -10 or something?
 
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SgtLip

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Regarding the width and offset, factory is 7" wide with +37.5MM offset. Most aftermarket wheels, you'll probably see widths ranging from 7"-8", with the typical offsets of +35 to +45 mm. Anything in that range should work just fine and provide similar to stock fitment.
Okay. I think I'm catching on. Thanks.
 

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SgtLip

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More offset will actually pull the wheel/tire inward. Less offset would push it out. Most aftermarket wheels in our bolt pattern have greater than 38mm offset, thus the centerline of the wheel would be pulled in by the difference in comparison to the stock wheels.
So am I okay with a +40 or +43? Or should I keep it at +40 to make sure all is okay?
 

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More offset will actually pull the wheel/tire inward. Less offset would push it out. Most aftermarket wheels in our bolt pattern have greater than 38mm offset, thus the centerline of the wheel would be pulled in by the difference in comparison to the stock wheels.
Yeah, what he said. I got it backward...again

TireRack explains offset
 

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What is missing from the original post is that the "full size spare" is an Atlas 215/60R17. Bigger than the donut but not exactly "full size" as compared to the other 4 tires. Like many, I had originally assumed I could just add this tire to the rotation (since ordered the XL with steel wheels). Nope. Unfortunately it is pretty much "for emergency use only" just like the donut (but can use a little longer and drive a little faster than using only the donut). For those adding bigger tires, you might want to think about how you are going to handle the spare as well.
 

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What is missing from the original post is that the "full size spare" is an Atlas 215/60R17. Bigger than the donut but not exactly "full size" as compared to the other 4 tires. Like many, I had originally assumed I could just add this tire to the rotation (since ordered the XL with steel wheels). Nope. Unfortunately it is pretty much "for emergency use only" just like the donut (but can use a little longer and drive a little faster than using only the donut). For those adding bigger tires, you might want to think about how you are going to handle the spare as well.
Is the wheel well (or whatever you call it) big enough to take a full sized wheel and tire? If so, could you just put some random cheap tire that's the same size as what you run?
 
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I haven't purchased my Maverick yet, but I'm already thinking about different wheels.
I recently sold my 2015 BMW X1 but kept my light aftermarket wheels.
I was just about to post them for sale on Craig's List when I realized, with the use of wheel spacers, I may be able to put them on my (future) Maverick.
The BMW wheels have a 5x120 bolt pattern and I've found a number of online sites that sell 5x108 to 5x120 spacers.
The wheels are 17x8 and have a 35mm offset.
I'd love to be able to use these wheels....we'll see.

Ford Maverick Factory Tires Sizes & Wheels Specs For 2022 Maverick: Width, Offset, Bolt Pattern, Center Bore, Thread Size, Weight kZDDCyv
 

SgtLip

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I haven't purchased my Maverick yet, but I'm already thinking about different wheels.
I recently sold my 2015 BMW X1 but kept my light aftermarket wheels.
I was just about to post them for sale on Craig's List when I realized, with the use of wheel spacers, I may be able to put them on my (future) Maverick.
The BMW wheels have a 5x120 bolt pattern and I've found a number of online sites that sell 5x108 to 5x120 spacers.
The wheels are 17x8 and have a 35mm offset.
I'd love to be able to use these wheels....we'll see.

Ford Maverick Factory Tires Sizes & Wheels Specs For 2022 Maverick: Width, Offset, Bolt Pattern, Center Bore, Thread Size, Weight kZDDCyv
@Deacon Blues
Beautiful wheels except the minor scratch. I have no idea what a spacer is but I'd use them in a heart beat if you can.
 

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Beautiful wheels except the minor scratch. I have no idea what a spacer is but I'd use them in a heart beat if you can.
You can get basic spacers that are just metal plates to shift the wheel outwards. In this case though it'd require an adapter which is a thicker plate that gets attached via nuts on the original wheel studs and has another set of wheel studs at the different bolt pattern. They aren't really ideal because high quality ones are pretty spendy, add a bunch of negative offset, and because of that can put more leveraged force on your wheel bearings.
 

SgtLip

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You can get basic spacers that are just metal plates to shift the wheel outwards. In this case though it'd require an adapter which is a thicker plate that gets attached via nuts on the original wheel studs and has another set of wheel studs at the different bolt pattern. They aren't really ideal because high quality ones are pretty spendy, add a bunch of negative offset, and because of that can put more leveraged force on your wheel bearings.
Wow, always read about them but wasn't aware of all of that. Thanks for learning me.
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