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Buschur

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The main purpose from my stand point is not the oil getting to the combustion chamber and build up, the main purpose, which I believe is on the first page of this thread as I've discussed it a lot, is to keep the oil out of the intercooler.
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Buschur

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I, myself would benefit from seeing the inside to know the actual amount getting separated that it's clean and good to go when servicing. That little piece of mind is soothing😁
You'll know what's getting separated when you drain it.
 

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I think I found some places from the comments. I will call around. How about that oil suggestion? Good?
What oil to use is the internets second oldest question and has never been answered definitively. Any name brand oil that meets the minimum service rating and weight requirements will probably be fine assuming you change it appropriately.
If you wanna go deeper into oils, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com.
 

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Its actually an issue with the ecoboosts if you do a little research. See pic. There are some catch can systems costing up to $1200. The oil vapors attach themselves to the valve and causes all sorts of issues that all have been mentioned in this thread.

Ford Maverick Buschur's Maverick 2.0 oil separators DONE! junkcatchcanresults_zps03279f6b
 

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@Buschur Im sorry to ask this if its already been asked, but do you guys have plans to make an catch can for the crankcase side also?
I really like the one you have made for the valve cover side, but i really don't want to have a mis-match of parts. From years of personal experience, i am very aware of the benefits of air oil separators. Here in hot AZ, we mostly don't have the downfalls of the condensation issues that some like to point out that are associate with catch cans. My twin turboed "stock" 5.3l "LS" in my Drift Willy's Jeep, pours oil vapors out like crazy on hard pulls. More so now with the very loose open ring gap i put in it to help elevate Ringland failure. so far its worked. Makes almost 800whp, and has for almost 6 years, and i am NOT very nice to it at all. I run a vent to atmosphere type can, that i threw together from left over parts.
 
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Buschur

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@Buschur Im sorry to ask this if its already been asked, but do you guys have plans to make an catch can for the crankcase side also?
I really like the one you have made for the valve cover side, but i really don't want to have a mis-match of parts. From years of personal experience, i am very aware of the benefits of air oil separators. Here in hot AZ, we mostly don't have the downfalls of the condensation issues that some like to point out that are associate with catch cans. My twin turboed "stock" 5.3l "LS" in my Drift Willy's Jeep, pours oil vapors out like crazy on hard pulls. More so now with the very loose open ring gap i put in it to help elevate Ringland failure. so far its worked. Makes almost 800whp, and has for almost 6 years, and i am NOT very nice to it at all. I run a vent to atmosphere type can, that i threw together from left over parts.
Currently I do not have plans for that, HOWEVER, there is a non emissions compliant can coming that will be vented on the top with an extra port and we can add from there if needed.
 

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Currently I do not have plans for that, HOWEVER, there is a non emissions compliant can coming that will be vented on the top with an extra port and we can add from there if needed.
completely understand ;)
 

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I prefer vented, however, with the emission issues many have and the way this factory system is designed this is the “best of both worlds”. You can expect to see a vented can come from us, I ordered parts today for some of the prototype pieces we will need to have CNC’d.
...please elaborate on the potential for "emissions issues" with a Vented Can system. It sounds like a superior solution to the contaminants problem, but not at the price of failing mandated emissions testing!
 

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That's a great pic, shows exactly why you want a catch can. Also shows that it's impossible to hydrolock an engine. Thanks for posting it.
I think firecap18's comments are very valid. The "hydrolock" term is just incorrect. It has more to do with increased pressure within the engine - similar to having a faulty PCV. If the catch can or hose line is frozen (or restricted) it will cause the crankcase pressure to build up and oil will be sucked back up into the intake. I've had this happen in the winter. It was smoking so bad I thought I blew the motor. I still run a catch can on my GTI, so I'm not saying that I wouldn't use one. You just have to be aware of the potential problem. I believe the issue I had was with the size or the can and hose routing. The can was too small and the hoses didn't slope/drain into the can. I could actually feel the ice within the hoses. I applaud Buschur for developing products for the Maverick but he think was being too dismissive on this topic.
 
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...please elaborate on the potential for "emissions issues" with a Vented Can system. It sounds like a superior solution to the contaminants problem, but not at the price of failing mandated emissions testing!
Our can is not EPA approved but it is a closed system like factory, so nothing is vented to the atmosphere. Actually perfect timing for this discussion since we finally got the new part in today.

Attached are two pics I just took.

The first is a new fitting we've been waiting a long time to have made. It replaces the oil cap and provides an additional crank case vent, this will be used on a new vented can we are going to release. Venting the vapors to atmosphere will make it non-emission compliant but will further decrease crank case pressure. The return to the intake will be eliminated with that kit and there will be two hoses to the catch can with a large filter on top to vent the crank case pressure. The can will then catch 100% of all oil vapors and not return ANYTHING to the intake.

The second pic is our revised catch can that uses the same push lock fittings as the rest of the truck. We have 9 kits leaving today that all have these new fittings. The original can uses AN fittings, these are lighter and match the rest of the fittings on the truck. Before someone says it, they are not cheaper to build like this, we had to have the fittings CNC machined and the cost of the push lock fittings are no less expensive than the AN.

Ford Maverick Buschur's Maverick 2.0 oil separators DONE! IMG_0569


Ford Maverick Buschur's Maverick 2.0 oil separators DONE! IMG_0567
 
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Our can is not EPA approved but it is a closed system like factory, so nothing is vented to the atmosphere. Actually perfect timing for this discussion since we finally got the new part in today.

Attached are two pics I just took.

The first is a new fitting we've been waiting a long time to have made. It replaces the oil cap and provides an additional crank case vent, this will be used on a new vented can we are going to release. Venting the vapors to atmosphere will make it non-emission compliant but will further decrease crank case pressure. The return to the intake will be eliminated with that kit and there will be two hoses to the catch can with a large filter on top to vent the crank case pressure. The can will then catch 100% of all oil vapors and not return ANYTHING to the intake.

The second pic is our revised catch can that uses the same push lock fittings as the rest of the truck. We have 9 kits leaving today that all have these new fittings. The original can uses AN fittings, these are lighter and match the rest of the fittings on the truck. Before someone says it, they are not cheaper to build like this, we had to have the fittings CNC machined and the cost of the push lock fittings are no less expensive than the AN.

IMG_0569.jpg


IMG_0567.jpg
David, I’m not sure this new can is for me, but I would like to see about getting a set of the new engine connectors for the hoses on the original can. The ones that came originally don’t fully lock on (As Im sure you know.).

thanks.
 
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Buschur

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David, I’m not sure this new can is for me, but I would like to see about getting a set of the new engine connectors for the hoses on the original can. The ones that came originally don’t fully lock on (As Im sure you know.).

thanks.
Yes, the ones going to the valve cover and air intake, we do not even supply them now because everyone is breaking the factory connectors. Now you simply cut the factory hose off, leaving the fittings on and then slide our hoses over those factory fittings.
 

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Our can is not EPA approved but it is a closed system like factory, so nothing is vented to the atmosphere. Actually perfect timing for this discussion since we finally got the new part in today.

Attached are two pics I just took.

The first is a new fitting we've been waiting a long time to have made. It replaces the oil cap and provides an additional crank case vent, this will be used on a new vented can we are going to release. Venting the vapors to atmosphere will make it non-emission compliant but will further decrease crank case pressure. The return to the intake will be eliminated with that kit and there will be two hoses to the catch can with a large filter on top to vent the crank case pressure. The can will then catch 100% of all oil vapors and not return ANYTHING to the intake.

The second pic is our revised catch can that uses the same push lock fittings as the rest of the truck. We have 9 kits leaving today that all have these new fittings. The original can uses AN fittings, these are lighter and match the rest of the fittings on the truck. Before someone says it, they are not cheaper to build like this, we had to have the fittings CNC machined and the cost of the push lock fittings are no less expensive than the AN.

IMG_0569.jpg


IMG_0567.jpg
This is how the catch can is in my Drift Willy’s is. Has a -10 fitting coming out of each valve cover I welded on, then each line runs to the catch can, which has a big 1.5” barb that a stainless steel filter is clamped onto. The inside of the valve covers where the fittings are welded on, have baffles to keep the huge liquid oil droplets from being push out. I just threw it together with stuff I had laying around from other cars I’ve built over the years.
 

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This is how the catch can is in my Drift Willy’s is. Has a -10 fitting coming out of each valve cover I welded on, then each line runs to the catch can, which has a big 1.5” barb that a stainless steel filter is clamped onto. The inside of the valve covers where the fittings are welded on, have baffles to keep the huge liquid oil droplets from being push out. I just threw it together with stuff I had laying around from other cars I’ve built over the years.
With it like this, with the “loose” ring gap I run, under a heavy full load, I can actually watch the vapor pour out of it. I do t have a hood on it in case anyone was wandering how I could watch the cam.lol. But the last time I swapped intake manifolds after like 3 years of straight up abuse, there wasn’t a drop of oil film in the intake or any carbon build up on the intake valves at all!
 

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Does it matter that the catch can connections are higher than connection on the motor... Meaning that the oil/water has to be forced uphill into the catch can?
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