A Detailers Maverick Experience: Thin Paint, Ceramic Coating, Etc.

[Kelli]

I have a California Car wash (basically a fancy type of dry mop that picks up dirt off the vehicles). Could I use this on it to "wash" it or would that do more harm? I haven't had a Ford in years and am starting to look at the ceramic coating as I do remember Ford's paint didn't last near a long or as well as the other vehicles we had.

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[Kelli]

I ordered a cyber orange Maverick, it has the metallic paint. How does the ceramic coating affect it meaning will it still "change color" in different lights or will it always be the lighter school bus yellow?

 

[2cafn8d]

congrats - you're probably my favorite forum poster.

love the tasteful wheels - love that thing polished up even more.

its so sad that people are $%$%%@#$ up their trucks with painted mirrors, or some shoddy vinyl, bad wheels. you have achieved 'better than stock'.

id like to see your truck lowered slightly. still great job.

Keep in mind what you are saying is subjective.

I keep going over these pictures, can't wait to get mine.

 

[Deleted member 6544]

I’m just gonna start by saying that these Mavericks are already head turners when they’re out in the wild… But now this thing straight up is snapping necks.

Finally had the time to detail my truck properly. It was washed, decontaminated and pretty much every surface is now ceramic coated. Paint was in such good shape after washing and prep, that I fortunately didn’t have to do any paint correction. This is rare but shows how taking the proper precautions and making sure your vehicle is in professional hands can save you a lot of time and money. This truck is Ceramic Coated so it’s UV protected, it’s going to stay cleaner for alot longer, it’s going to stay looking glossy and cleaning it is going to be a piece of cake thanks to the low surface energy and high contact angle the ceramic coating provides. This is going to protect my vehicle from things like bird scat, insect acid, hard water, acid rain, road salt and much more.

Here are a few thoughts..

1.) Don’t let your dealer touch the truck. This is going to prevent you from having to pay to fix any scratches/imperfections they administer. This is important because polishing is where you’re going to spend your money at the detail shop.

Warning: these trucks have little to no paint on them.. (more later on)


2.) Find an certified detailer with proper knowledge and experience and don’t let joe shmoe touch your truck. You get what you pay for quite literally in the detailing industry. You can always find someone to do it cheaper, but that’s not necessarily better. You’ll usually end up paying another detailer to fix the first ones mistakes. In this case, not hiring a professional could easily lead to them burning through the little paint you have trying to correct it.


3.)PAINT IS THIN
This is so important. If you or your detailer are going to polish the truck in any way, they NEED to do a paint reading with a paint depth gauge. Paint preservation is most important.
I was shocked at how little clear coat was on certain parts of my truck and had I not taken the right precautions and measured the paint, I’d be in a lot of trouble. Luckily I had no dealer instilled scratches or swirls and I was able to simply wash, carefully decontaminate the paint with an iron remover, sap remove, tar remover and followed up with a careful claybar. No user inflicted marring. Had I not been experienced at this, this would have been a turning point in the project for a lot of people. I’m shocked at how thin the paint is and so thankful I am not busting out the polisher. Below are pictures of the process and what I saw.

4.)Plastic almost appears to have a coating of some sort on it. I ceramic coated mine but it almost didn’t want to take the coating. Hopefully we won’t see fading down the road like we do with most vehicles with this type of exterior surface. Whether your coating it or restoring it down the road, remember these pieces are very porous and get clogged with contamination. It needs to be cleaned properly or you won’t get proper adhesion.

Here are pictures of the process, hope you enjoy.

Before:

After:

Clay After Decon: lots of dirt and grime embedded into the clear coat

Paint After Clay: No visible scratches or marring when done right

Measuring The Paint:

Results: For Reference, you can assume you have about 1.5-2. Mils of base/color coat on a car. 1 Mil is .001 of an inch. For reference, a post it note is 3 Mils thick. So most cars paint is thinner than a post it note. Most new cars have about the same amount of clear coat, sometimes less and sometimes more. After reading as low as 2.28 on some places that’s a sign there is very little to no clear coat on these vehicles.



Coating Time:
Gtechniq CSL Followed By Ex

Beyond happy with the result
Hope you enjoy and thanks for reading!!!

Are you reading all layers of the paint job? Electrocoat, primer, base, clear? How are you differentiating between the four separate coatings ?
The thickness of the paint has absolutely nothing to do with process times. The OEM's are not putting less paint on to speed up production. Regardless of paint thickness, 2 mills or 5 mils, the paint takes the same amount of time/temperature to cure. If anything the OEM paint suppliers, (I worked for one for 35 years), have been working on, and succeeding, at lower time-temperatures coatings because of cost but is has nothing to do with DFT. To your point if the coating can dry at 250F for 30 minutes vs. 350F for 45 minutes then yes production is sped up along with lowering energy costs.

Yessir you are very correct. Manufacturers have to produce more cars every year and in order to do so they have to speed up the building process. Robots can only do so much. Paint is the longest process of the build, they’re literally waiting for paint to dry. So we are seeing manufacturers spraying cars thinner and thinner to speed up the paint and dry process.

 

[mr mojo risen]

Posting just so I can watch / bookmark this thread for future reference. This is definitely something I want to seriously consider for my truck.

BTW, awesome job OP, and thanks for the technical / professionalism insights into ceramic paint coatings.

 

[projectvortex]

No they’re all done in a specific pattern. We take multiple readings of each panel to get accurate results. You can go from bottom of door to top of door and see a 1-2 Mil difference easily. Makes you wonder what in the world theyre doing in the paint booth. All four corners of each and every panel gets hit and a reading or two in the middle. Tailgate was a no-go, all readings were 2.2/2.3. Bottom of driver door was 2.5/2.6. Driver passenger was all just under 3 Mils. Roof and Hood had the 4 Mils and everything else was pretty much low 3s. I can post a report I did recently on a brand new Dodge Ram 1500 that had 3-4x the paint I have on my Maverick. It’ll make more sense.

View attachment 51347 View attachment 51348 View attachment 51349 View attachment 51350

Today I received an R&D TC100 coating thickness gauge and used several standard “templates” to calibrate it…….25 microns, 50 microns, etc. I just went out and measured my Mav. It was not as scientific as the OP has done but I feel it is quite accurate since the gauge reads zero when zeroed and 49 microns when it’s really 50 and 103 microns when it’s really 100, etc, etc. It also reads zero again when finished and is still in calibration otherwise with the known test templates. One mil is 25.4 microns.

I took dozens of measurements all over the truck and the lowest I could find was around 4 mils at the top of the tailgate. Roof and hood were all consistently well over 5, some near 6 with an occasional 4.5-5.0. Fenders, doors etc also were all well over 4 total with most around 5. This is total base color, primer, clear coat, etc. Everything between bare metal and the probe. While I cannot separate into individual layers like the OP somehow did, I feel a lot more comfortable now than a few days ago. Since most automotive total paint thicknesses range from 4-7 mils total, the Mav, at least my current temporary one, seems to be pretty much in line with industry standards and nothing to write home about.

Mine is ceramic coated (Gtechniq) and I did apply some PPF to the leading edges/areas. I would highly encourage anyone wanting to keep their finish in great shape for years to do the same.

 

[Deleted member 6544]

Today I received an R&D TC100 coating thickness gauge and used several standard “templates” to calibrate it…….25 microns, 50 microns, etc. I just went out and measured my Mav. It was not as scientific as the OP has done but I feel it is quite accurate since the gauge reads zero when zeroed and 49 microns when it’s really 50 and 103 microns when it’s really 100, etc, etc. It also reads zero again when finished and is still in calibration otherwise with the known test templates. One mil is 25.4 microns.

I took dozens of measurements all over the truck and the lowest I could find was around 4 mils at the top of the tailgate. Roof and hood were all consistently well over 5, some near 6 with an occasional 4.5-5.0. Fenders, doors etc also were all well over 4 total with most around 5. This is total base color, primer, clear coat, etc. Everything between bare metal and the probe. While I cannot separate into individual layers like the OP somehow did, I feel a lot more comfortable now than a few days ago. Since most automotive total paint thicknesses range from 4-7 mils total, the Mav, at least my current temporary one, seems to be pretty much in line with industry standards and nothing to write home about.

Mine is ceramic coated (Gtechniq) and I did apply some PPF to the leading edges/areas. I would highly encourage anyone wanting to keep their finish in great shape for years to do the same.

These numbers make a whole lot more sense than the OPs. You figure approx. .8-1.0 mils for the ecoat, another 1-1.2 for primer. .8-1.3 mils for base coat, (color dependent), then the rest for cleacoat. Also there is a thin layer of zinc or zirconium pretreatment.

 

[projectvortex]

These numbers make a whole lot more sense than the OPs. You figure approx. .8-1.0 mils for the ecoat, another 1-1.2 for primer. .8-1.3 mils for base coat, (color dependent), then the rest for cleacoat. Also there is a thin layer of zinc or zirconium pretreatment.

Very important additional info…….

According to Automotive Paint and Coatings, 2nd Edition:
“Base coat film thickness depends on the hiding power of the base coat, which is again dependent on the pigmentation. For silver shades, which exhibit good black–white hiding, typical film build is around 10 µm, for white shades around 20 µm, and for yellow/red shades up to 30 µm.”

This explains exactly why my readings on a white truck may be higher than the OP on his silver/gray. Guess I’ll have really thick paint when I get my HPR order built in ‘23 or ‘24. Lol

 

[Deleted member 6544]

Very important additional info…….

According to Automotive Paint and Coatings, 2nd Edition:
“Base coat film thickness depends on the hiding power of the base coat, which is again dependent on the pigmentation. For silver shades, which exhibit good black–white hiding, typical film build is around 10 µm, for white shades around 20 µm, and for yellow/red shades up to 30 µm.”

This explains exactly why my readings on a white truck may be higher than the OP on his silver/gray. Guess I’ll have really thick paint when I get my HPR order built in ‘23 or ‘24. Lol

Exactly correct. BTW the paint at the low end of the DFT, (dry film thickness), say black or silver or the high for yellows and whites all have to meet the same performance specifications

 

[Joey1320]

The first thing that popped into my head after seeing the second picture is the T-1000 metallurgy terminator.

 

[BB0]

It looks wonderful, you did a great job! Do you have a product you'd recommend to rotate in with every few washes that would extend the life of the coating? Currently I wash with carpro reset and detail with Adam's Graphene detail spray, but I was considering getting a ceramic boost to rotate in with every third or fourth wash.

 

[Cruzer01]

I’m just gonna start by saying that these Mavericks are already head turners when they’re out in the wild… But now this thing straight up is snapping necks.

Finally had the time to detail my truck properly. It was washed, decontaminated and pretty much every surface is now ceramic coated. Paint was in such good shape after washing and prep, that I fortunately didn’t have to do any paint correction. This is rare but shows how taking the proper precautions and making sure your vehicle is in professional hands can save you a lot of time and money. This truck is Ceramic Coated so it’s UV protected, it’s going to stay cleaner for alot longer, it’s going to stay looking glossy and cleaning it is going to be a piece of cake thanks to the low surface energy and high contact angle the ceramic coating provides. This is going to protect my vehicle from things like bird scat, insect acid, hard water, acid rain, road salt and much more.

Here are a few thoughts..

1.) Don’t let your dealer touch the truck. This is going to prevent you from having to pay to fix any scratches/imperfections they administer. This is important because polishing is where you’re going to spend your money at the detail shop.

Warning: these trucks have little to no paint on them.. (more later on)


2.) Find an certified detailer with proper knowledge and experience and don’t let joe shmoe touch your truck. You get what you pay for quite literally in the detailing industry. You can always find someone to do it cheaper, but that’s not necessarily better. You’ll usually end up paying another detailer to fix the first ones mistakes. In this case, not hiring a professional could easily lead to them burning through the little paint you have trying to correct it.


3.)PAINT IS THIN
This is so important. If you or your detailer are going to polish the truck in any way, they NEED to do a paint reading with a paint depth gauge. Paint preservation is most important.
I was shocked at how little clear coat was on certain parts of my truck and had I not taken the right precautions and measured the paint, I’d be in a lot of trouble. Luckily I had no dealer instilled scratches or swirls and I was able to simply wash, carefully decontaminate the paint with an iron remover, sap remove, tar remover and followed up with a careful claybar. No user inflicted marring. Had I not been experienced at this, this would have been a turning point in the project for a lot of people. I’m shocked at how thin the paint is and so thankful I am not busting out the polisher. Below are pictures of the process and what I saw.

4.)Plastic almost appears to have a coating of some sort on it. I ceramic coated mine but it almost didn’t want to take the coating. Hopefully we won’t see fading down the road like we do with most vehicles with this type of exterior surface. Whether your coating it or restoring it down the road, remember these pieces are very porous and get clogged with contamination. It needs to be cleaned properly or you won’t get proper adhesion.

Here are pictures of the process, hope you enjoy.

Before:

After:

Clay After Decon: lots of dirt and grime embedded into the clear coat

Paint After Clay: No visible scratches or marring when done right

Measuring The Paint:

Results: For Reference, you can assume you have about 1.5-2. Mils of base/color coat on a car. 1 Mil is .001 of an inch. For reference, a post it note is 3 Mils thick. So most cars paint is thinner than a post it note. Most new cars have about the same amount of clear coat, sometimes less and sometimes more. After reading as low as 2.28 on some places that’s a sign there is very little to no clear coat on these vehicles.

Coating Time:
Gtechniq CSL Followed By ExoV4

Beyond happy with the results!!!

Hope you enjoy and thanks for reading!!!

Looks amazing great job

 

[nunucello]

I’m just gonna start by saying that these Mavericks are already head turners when they’re out in the wild… But now this thing straight up is snapping necks.

Finally had the time to detail my truck properly. It was washed, decontaminated and pretty much every surface is now ceramic coated. Paint was in such good shape after washing and prep, that I fortunately didn’t have to do any paint correction. This is rare but shows how taking the proper precautions and making sure your vehicle is in professional hands can save you a lot of time and money. This truck is Ceramic Coated so it’s UV protected, it’s going to stay cleaner for alot longer, it’s going to stay looking glossy and cleaning it is going to be a piece of cake thanks to the low surface energy and high contact angle the ceramic coating provides. This is going to protect my vehicle from things like bird scat, insect acid, hard water, acid rain, road salt and much more.

Here are a few thoughts..

1.) Don’t let your dealer touch the truck. This is going to prevent you from having to pay to fix any scratches/imperfections they administer. This is important because polishing is where you’re going to spend your money at the detail shop.

Warning: these trucks have little to no paint on them.. (more later on)


2.) Find an certified detailer with proper knowledge and experience and don’t let joe shmoe touch your truck. You get what you pay for quite literally in the detailing industry. You can always find someone to do it cheaper, but that’s not necessarily better. You’ll usually end up paying another detailer to fix the first ones mistakes. In this case, not hiring a professional could easily lead to them burning through the little paint you have trying to correct it.


3.)PAINT IS THIN
This is so important. If you or your detailer are going to polish the truck in any way, they NEED to do a paint reading with a paint depth gauge. Paint preservation is most important.
I was shocked at how little clear coat was on certain parts of my truck and had I not taken the right precautions and measured the paint, I’d be in a lot of trouble. Luckily I had no dealer instilled scratches or swirls and I was able to simply wash, carefully decontaminate the paint with an iron remover, sap remove, tar remover and followed up with a careful claybar. No user inflicted marring. Had I not been experienced at this, this would have been a turning point in the project for a lot of people. I’m shocked at how thin the paint is and so thankful I am not busting out the polisher. Below are pictures of the process and what I saw.

4.)Plastic almost appears to have a coating of some sort on it. I ceramic coated mine but it almost didn’t want to take the coating. Hopefully we won’t see fading down the road like we do with most vehicles with this type of exterior surface. Whether your coating it or restoring it down the road, remember these pieces are very porous and get clogged with contamination. It needs to be cleaned properly or you won’t get proper adhesion.

Here are pictures of the process, hope you enjoy.

Before:

After:

Clay After Decon: lots of dirt and grime embedded into the clear coat

Paint After Clay: No visible scratches or marring when done right

Measuring The Paint:

Results: For Reference, you can assume you have about 1.5-2. Mils of base/color coat on a car. 1 Mil is .001 of an inch. For reference, a post it note is 3 Mils thick. So most cars paint is thinner than a post it note. Most new cars have about the same amount of clear coat, sometimes less and sometimes more. After reading as low as 2.28 on some places that’s a sign there is very little to no clear coat on these vehicles.

Coating Time:
Gtechniq CSL Followed By ExoV4

Beyond happy with the results!!!

Hope you enjoy and thanks for reading!!!

Looks Amazing √

 

[Happy Guy 823]

Did mine myself. Took about 4 hours. Looks like a mirror.

 

[adawalli]

I’m just gonna start by saying that these Mavericks are already head turners when they’re out in the wild… But now this thing straight up is snapping necks.

Finally had the time to detail my truck properly. It was washed, decontaminated and pretty much every surface is now ceramic coated. Paint was in such good shape after washing and prep, that I fortunately didn’t have to do any paint correction. This is rare but shows how taking the proper precautions and making sure your vehicle is in professional hands can save you a lot of time and money. This truck is Ceramic Coated so it’s UV protected, it’s going to stay cleaner for alot longer, it’s going to stay looking glossy and cleaning it is going to be a piece of cake thanks to the low surface energy and high contact angle the ceramic coating provides. This is going to protect my vehicle from things like bird scat, insect acid, hard water, acid rain, road salt and much more.

Here are a few thoughts..

1.) Don’t let your dealer touch the truck. This is going to prevent you from having to pay to fix any scratches/imperfections they administer. This is important because polishing is where you’re going to spend your money at the detail shop.

Warning: these trucks have little to no paint on them.. (more later on)


2.) Find an certified detailer with proper knowledge and experience and don’t let joe shmoe touch your truck. You get what you pay for quite literally in the detailing industry. You can always find someone to do it cheaper, but that’s not necessarily better. You’ll usually end up paying another detailer to fix the first ones mistakes. In this case, not hiring a professional could easily lead to them burning through the little paint you have trying to correct it.


3.)PAINT IS THIN
This is so important. If you or your detailer are going to polish the truck in any way, they NEED to do a paint reading with a paint depth gauge. Paint preservation is most important.
I was shocked at how little clear coat was on certain parts of my truck and had I not taken the right precautions and measured the paint, I’d be in a lot of trouble. Luckily I had no dealer instilled scratches or swirls and I was able to simply wash, carefully decontaminate the paint with an iron remover, sap remove, tar remover and followed up with a careful claybar. No user inflicted marring. Had I not been experienced at this, this would have been a turning point in the project for a lot of people. I’m shocked at how thin the paint is and so thankful I am not busting out the polisher. Below are pictures of the process and what I saw.

4.)Plastic almost appears to have a coating of some sort on it. I ceramic coated mine but it almost didn’t want to take the coating. Hopefully we won’t see fading down the road like we do with most vehicles with this type of exterior surface. Whether your coating it or restoring it down the road, remember these pieces are very porous and get clogged with contamination. It needs to be cleaned properly or you won’t get proper adhesion.

Here are pictures of the process, hope you enjoy.

Before:

After:

Clay After Decon: lots of dirt and grime embedded into the clear coat

Paint After Clay: No visible scratches or marring when done right

Measuring The Paint:

Results: For Reference, you can assume you have about 1.5-2. Mils of base/color coat on a car. 1 Mil is .001 of an inch. For reference, a post it note is 3 Mils thick. So most cars paint is thinner than a post it note. Most new cars have about the same amount of clear coat, sometimes less and sometimes more. After reading as low as 2.28 on some places that’s a sign there is very little to no clear coat on these vehicles.

Coating Time:
Gtechniq CSL Followed By ExoV4

Beyond happy with the results!!!

Hope you enjoy and thanks for reading!!!

Did you do anything to strip the factory wax? I know something like Dawn is normally terrible for a car, but in this case would you recommend it before claying and prepping the paint?

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