3000 watt Inverter

[MakinDoForNow]

What size cable did you use?

The chart is good with one exception. When the dcdc is loaded the voltage is increased. In winter I have seen 15.6 volts and I am not in cold country. Probably 16 is slightly over max. So wire should be sized at 15.6 volts.

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[rk06382]

The chart is good with one exception. When the dcdc is loaded the voltage is increased. In winter I have seen 15.6 volts and I am not in cold country. Probably 16 is slightly over max. So wire should be sized at 15.6 volts.

Google: 12v lead acid battery charging voltage

A 12V lead-acid battery typically requires a charging voltage between 13.5V and 14.8V, depending on the charging stage and battery type. For a standard, non-critical application, a float voltage of around 13.6V is often recommended. However, for faster charging, a voltage of 14.4V-14.7V might be used, but it's crucial to monitor the battery and potentially reduce the voltage as it approaches full charge to avoid overcharging.

Google: 12v AGM battery charging voltage
A 12V AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery typically charges at a voltage range of 14.4V to 14.7V during the bulk and absorption stages, and then at 13.6V to 13.8V during the float stage. Fully charged, an AGM battery will read between 12.8V and 13.0V.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Google: 12v lead acid battery charging voltage

A 12V lead-acid battery typically requires a charging voltage between 13.5V and 14.8V, depending on the charging stage and battery type. For a standard, non-critical application, a float voltage of around 13.6V is often recommended. However, for faster charging, a voltage of 14.4V-14.7V might be used, but it's crucial to monitor the battery and potentially reduce the voltage as it approaches full charge to avoid overcharging.

Google: 12v AGM battery charging voltage
A 12V AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery typically charges at a voltage range of 14.4V to 14.7V during the bulk and absorption stages, and then at 13.6V to 13.8V during the float stage. Fully charged, an AGM battery will read between 12.8V and 13.0V.

OP is not charging a 12v battery he is powering a 3000 watt 120v inverter from the DCDC converter which in the Hybrid outputs up to at least 15.6v and possibly up to 16v ON THE LOW VOLTAGE (aka 12v) BUSS. How the Hybrid Maverick handles that voltage in charging the 12v is unknown by me. I assume by limiting current as the 12v gets over 80% to 0-2 amps depending on how close to 100% the 12v battery is. OP will have to have his truck on to cycle ice to charge the HVB and keep the DCDC converter fed! The BMS is located on the negative post and can make or break the charge current very rapidly depending on how the battery is accepting the current while the DCDC is powering the truck.

 

[heady]

It's ok to use the wire size chart for 12V, it'll be a slightly more conservative rating for the size, but not considerably. You wouldn't really be able to use the next size smaller wire for the higher voltage, whatever it is at the time (15.6, 14, 13.8), AWG wire doesn't really come in that fine a range of sizes.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

OP is not charging a 12v battery he is powering a 3000 watt 120v inverter from the DCDC converter which in the Hybrid outputs up to at least 15.6v and possibly up to 16v ON THE LOW VOLTAGE (aka 12v) BUSS. How the Hybrid Maverick handles that voltage in charging the 12v is unknown by me. I assume by limiting current as the 12v gets over 80% to 0-2 amps depending on how close to 100% the 12v battery is. OP will have to have his truck on to cycle ice to charge the HVB and keep the DCDC converter fed! The BMS is located on the negative post and can make or break the charge current very rapidly depending on how the battery is accepting the current while the DCDC is powering the truck.

In his 2nd post, the OP indicates that he does NOT have a Hybrid.

HRG

 

[BlueSpec1]

Seems the 2.0L alternator at idle speed would be the limiting factor.
My previous truck had dual 220A alternators.

2022 Maverick Specs:

2.0L w 400W Inverter

 

[heady]

Seems the 2.0L alternator at idle speed would be the limiting factor.
My previous truck had dual 220A alternators.

We usually put big inverters in our service trucks, and that has always been the limiting factor, the engine speed. So we put in 2500-3000 watt inverters, but if you're just idling at the job site and using too much from the inverter, the batteries get drawn down and then the inverter shuts off from the low voltage shutdown. On trucks with a PTO high idle, we turn that on and it helps quite a bit, but if the inverter load is big enough eventually it draws the voltage down if the alternator isn't keeping up.

 

[BAScott62]

A 1.5 HP motor will draw a little under 1,200 Watts, so under 100 amps. If that's all they're doing with it, the fact that it's a 3K inverter is irrelevant.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

I'm thinking of buying a small "Economy" travel trailer to pull behind my Maverick.

It has a 15 amp 120 VAC wall type air conditioner.

We plan to "boondock" half of the time.

I'd prefer not to haul around a portable generator, deal with gas cans, fire hazards, emissions, and noise.

The hybrid Mav is pretty quiet. Has great emissions controls. And a large gas tank.

I'm wondering if I could run air conditioning a few hours a day with an inverter from the Maverick?

Also, the tiny RV has no LP gas.
The stove, and the room heat, and water heater are all electric.

I would not need to run all at the same time. I'd be happy running one appliance at a time.

I know I could put a several battery bank and inverter in the trailer.
But why when I can start the hybrid mav and let it cycle?

What do you guys think?

Start with using the inverter (2000 or 3000 watt) attached to the Maverick and see how it goes? Then, for silence, down the road I could use the inverter with a battery bank inside the Rv. If desired.

 

[Escapologist]

I think you should get a catalytic propane or coleman fuel heater, a propane or coleman fuel cooking stove that run off small bottle. Boil kettles for washing dishes etc. Just stick your water heater on for a bit when you want a shower or enough for a scrub down in a tote if it hasn't got one, or use a "solar shower" setup. My tendency for camping when there's no fire restrictions is just to keep water hot on fire most of the time and fire cook most stuff. For allowed but wood scarce there's the stick stoves based on rocket stove principle.

For actual cooking appliances you'd wanna plug in, small coffee maker if you can't stand percolated or french press fed from a kettle, and a slow cooker/crockpot is pretty low power. Hobs, ovens, etc, nah, unless you've got 2kW of solar and multiple batteries, or a huge genny that runs all day. (even then you're better off frying eggs on the cylinder head while it charges batteries )

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I'm thinking of buying a small "Economy" travel trailer to pull behind my Maverick.

It has a 15 amp 120 VAC wall type air conditioner.

We plan to "boondock" half of the time.

I'd prefer not to haul around a portable generator, deal with gas cans, fire hazards, emissions, and noise.

The hybrid Mav is pretty quiet. Has great emissions controls. And a large gas tank.

I'm wondering if I could run air conditioning a few hours a day with an inverter from the Maverick?

Also, the tiny RV has no LP gas.
The stove, and the room heat, and water heater are all electric.

I would not need to run all at the same time. I'd be happy running one appliance at a time.

I know I could put a several battery bank and inverter in the trailer.
But why when I can start the hybrid mav and let it cycle?

What do you guys think?

Start with using the inverter (2000 or 3000 watt) attached to the Maverick and see how it goes? Then, for silence, down the road I could use the inverter with a battery bank inside the Rv. If desired.

I have a 12k midea u shape window inverter AC that pulls (do not remember but like 1100 watts on max). I run it on economy mode which maxes at 925 watts. It's currently running at 640 watts (on hf sav a watt meter) set at 74°F in a 16x32 ft room with 13 32"x72" cheap thermopane windows. Mideau has a 8k model for smaller size if you want. The units are inverter type so they soft start the scroll compressor under very little load and then increase load so they do not have hardly any starting load over max running amps. (The 12k was $289 with $80 off sale at Costco). In any case you could run one of these with your hybrid mav in ready mode if desired. A battery bank with solar recharge would also work and save ice cycling. Just get an inverter AC to help whichever battery you choose.
ETA: THE DCDC converter in Mac is rated for 265 amps continuous. With proper wire and fuze you could use up to 80-100 amps. You will need to have devices that can handle up to 15.8-16 amp input or install a voltage stabilizer so they won't over voltage cutoff.

 

[Escapologist]

I am a dummy when it comes to electrics. I want to run a one and a half hp big giant box fan when I’m working in my storage unit. Can I use a 3 000 W inverter on my Maverick to power this fan while the engine is running?

You know what though, you don't really need to involve an inverter here, just get a bigass electric radiator fan at the wreckers and jumper cable it to your vehicle.

I had a sitch the other year where I had to work in an unventilated 12x25 outbuilding in height of summer, and a regular boxfan blowing into top corner of door kept it as good as you could expect, like external shade temperature, it's not an AC unit.

 

[Escapologist]

I have a 12k midea u shape window inverter AC that pulls (do not remember but like 1100 watts on max). I run it on economy mode which maxes at 925 watts. It's currently running at 640 watts (on hf sav a watt meter) set at 74°F in a 16x32 ft room with 13 32"x72" cheap thermopane windows. Mideau has a 8k model for smaller size if you want. The units are inverter type so they soft start the scroll compressor under very little load and then increase load so they do not have hardly any starting load over max running amps. (The 12k was $289 with $80 off sale at Costco). In any case you could run one of these with your hybrid mav in ready mode if desired. A battery bank with solar recharge would also work and save ice cycling. Just get an inverter AC to help whichever battery you choose.
ETA: THE DCDC converter in Mac is rated for 265 amps continuous. With proper wire and fuze you could use up to 80-100 amps. You will need to have devices that can handle up to 15.8-16 amp input or install a voltage stabilizer so they won't over voltage cutoff.

Nice sounding unit, might look into those. It's bugging me that the cheap minisplits around claim only to use a kilowatt in cool or heat mode but want a 220-240 hookup.

Ppl say those "good old days" window ACs with R12 refrigerant were powerful at cooling and efficient, but I guess they forget they dimmed the house lights every time they fired up, dunno what the surge was on them, but pulling enough that a 100A house supply goes low when there's only prolly 20A on it of an evening means it's gotta be something horrendous.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

You know what though, you don't really need to involve an inverter here, just get a bigass electric radiator fan at the wreckers and jumper cable it to your vehicle.

I had a sitch the other year where I had to work in an unventilated 12x25 outbuilding in height of summer, and a regular boxfan blowing into top corner of door kept it as good as you could expect, like external shade temperature, it's not an AC unit.

I was a front line medic in nam. No AC. If not in combat action troops were supposed to get 10 mins every hour. Depending on temp humidity etc. I would call "Time outs" one to three times a day depending on how the troops were acting (ambulating). Usually after three hours of continual non stop jungle "hunting".

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Nice sounding unit, might look into those. It's bugging me that the cheap minisplits around claim only to use a kilowatt in cool or heat mode but want a 220-240 hookup.

Ppl say those "good old days" window ACs with R12 refrigerant were powerful at cooling and efficient, but I guess they forget they dimmed the house lights every time they fired up, dunno what the surge was on them, but pulling enough that a 100A house supply goes low when there's only prolly 20A on it of an evening means it's gotta be something horrendous.

They are really quiet also. Most of sound is outside so you may need sound absorber to fit in the U where the window sash would normally be I think these are R410 maybe R134. The one I have is only cool mode. The reversing valve ones are $150 more, I think.

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