12v battery issue not looking good

[Ozarkbeard]

... I am going to buy an AGM battery on day one...

You might want to wait a while. I have had no problems with my almost year-old '23 Hybrid battery.
I did pull Fuse# 11 not long after I took delivery. I also fully charged the battery overnight, the first night I had the truck, because shipping took over a month before I took delivery.

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[Deano777]

Does pulling fuse 11 stop all ””Ford Pass” communications?

 

[mcluvin]

I am supposed to get my hybrid on Friday. I have been planning to do this on my own dime for some time: I am going to buy an AGM battery on day one. I agree that I should not have to do this, but I have already added it into my costs.

I sold my OEM battery for ~$75 on Marketplace and bought an H5 AGM at Walmart (4 year warranty) within the first month of ownership. My Maverick has never gone into Deep Sleep. I guess time will tell. To me it's just common sense that a conventional battery is gonna suck in the Maverick. By default Ford leaves the accessory power and radio on for a long time after you turn the vehicle off, not to mention the other stuff. Conventional batteries aren't designed to handle that kind of use, not to mention all the crap the manufacturers do for miniscule MPG improvements at the cost of battery life. I currently own 2 newer Honda CR-Vs and used to own a 99 CR-V. The 99 got 4 to 5 years out of a battery. That's the way it is supposed to be. The newer ones never make it to 3 years and I've gone through a bunch. I typically get ~2 years before the battery dies with my Hondas.

You are going to pay with wasted time and frustration getting stranded or you are going to pay with money. I'll gladly pay a net $100 for a better battery and warranty to not deal with all that BS.

 

[Matso]

Duly noted and you may very well be right. But I am choosing a different path toward a hopeful resolution to this issue. I'm willing to sacrifice a "certain" amount of time and exercise a "certain" amount of patience to see this through to a proper resolution. Proper in this case of course refers to a manufacturer acknowledging a known defect in a product that I purchased, and then repairing, fixing or otherwise resolving said defect under a qualified warranty claim. If this approach works out in my favor within a reasonable period of time (TBD)then great. Everybody wins along with members of the MTC forum as I can share that information. If not, I check it off as (bad) experience and move on while sharing that as well. Stay tuned for further developments.

 

[mr mojo risen]

^^^ surprised the Ford Account on this board hasn’t reached out yet to ask for your VIN and dealer info….

Just kidding….. sort of.

Wishing the best in getting you problem resolved.

 

[Matso]

Thanks for that. On my initial post however, I did mention that my dealer had already contacted a Ford engineer for support. Maybe that had the desired effect.
I've always wondered if any benefit ever resulted from responding to that account.

 

[JAFO]

I refuse to discuss my research into this problem. But I will say it is a FORD engineering problem. You will end up using a fix that works for you in your geographical area. Good Luck ..

 

[HeyBales]

Does pulling fuse 11 stop all ””Ford Pass” communications?

It disables the Cell modem with ATT.
No data in/out possible to Ford servers.

Ford Pass talking to Ford servers for truck current info will not work then.

Your app could still waste phone battery going to Ford servers for info that isn't there.

 

[scotty]

I sold my OEM battery for ~$75 on Marketplace and bought an H5 AGM at Walmart (4 year warranty) within the first month of ownership. My Maverick has never gone into Deep Sleep. I guess time will tell. To me it's just common sense that a conventional battery is gonna suck in the Maverick. By default Ford leaves the accessory power and radio on for a long time after you turn the vehicle off, not to mention the other stuff. Conventional batteries aren't designed to handle that kind of use, not to mention all the crap the manufacturers do for miniscule MPG improvements at the cost of battery life. I currently own 2 newer Honda CR-Vs and used to own a 99 CR-V. The 99 got 4 to 5 years out of a battery. That's the way it is supposed to be. The newer ones never make it to 3 years and I've gone through a bunch. I typically get ~2 years before the battery dies with my Hondas.

You are going to pay with wasted time and frustration getting stranded or you are going to pay with money. I'll gladly pay a net $100 for a better battery and warranty to not deal with all that BS.
[/QU

Want to get prepared: since the h5 battery is larger, how did you remove the tabs that the battery sits on top of to make it fit?

Did you need to remove the trim in order to install the h5 battery? Thank you.

 

[mikkop]

I am having the exact same issue. Ford does not care about it. i have it at a different dealer now. they have had it over a week and still they do not know how to fix it. same with Ford. Ford sucks. We will never buy a Ford again. Have been a Ford family since early 80's.

 

[ychuck46]

turn off wifi / automatic updates and location services as a start and see if it helps.
if not, remove the fuse for cell modem (i think its fuse 10 or 11)

that should give you good general idea.

It is #11 in the fuses located under the glove compartment. Haven’t had a problem since I pulled it. Before that the Maverick even killed my Diehard battery after 10 months. Fortunately Autozone replaced it under warranty but a good AGM battery shouldn’t be toast after 10 months and only about 5K miles of easy driving. I believe it is the constant spying on our trucks by Ford.

^^^ surprised the Ford Account on this board hasn’t reached out yet to ask for your VIN and dealer info….

They did. Asked me for the particulars and replied with “take it to the dealer”. Gee, thanks; never would have thought of that. Waste of time.

 

[HeyBales]

I plan on doing some of this concerning that Fuse 11 circuit, just to see how much it is drawing.



I'm thinking my oncoming problem will just be related to BMS issue of max SOC it seems to want to reach, and how low it's willing to go.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I sold my OEM battery for ~$75 on Marketplace and bought an H5 AGM at Walmart (4 year warranty) within the first month of ownership. My Maverick has never gone into Deep Sleep. I guess time will tell. To me it's just common sense that a conventional battery is gonna suck in the Maverick. By default Ford leaves the accessory power and radio on for a long time after you turn the vehicle off, not to mention the other stuff. Conventional batteries aren't designed to handle that kind of use, not to mention all the crap the manufacturers do for miniscule MPG improvements at the cost of battery life. I currently own 2 newer Honda CR-Vs and used to own a 99 CR-V. The 99 got 4 to 5 years out of a battery. That's the way it is supposed to be. The newer ones never make it to 3 years and I've gone through a bunch. I typically get ~2 years before the battery dies with my Hondas.
You are going to pay with wasted time and frustration getting stranded or you are going to pay with money. I'll gladly pay a net $100 for a better battery and warranty to not deal with all that BS.

I had a 2012 Honda crv battery eater. My 4th battery was still going strong at 61 months when I replaced it with my 2022 hybrid maverick lariat first edition. The battery longevity secret was to always have fan speed at 2 and the daylight running lights on which placed enough load on battery voltage to drop the bus to less than 11 volts and the BMS would step the alternator to 14.4 volts instead of waiting for it's emissions warmup delay. I also put my noco genius 5 on it about every 4th or 5th month for a week or so to do it's optimization routine. I have had no dome light a couple times in my lariat since Feb 2022 after which I did my noco g5 routine (not constant for a week but as much as possible for a full weeks time on noco which equates to maybe a period of 9-12 days). Never had deep sleep no start on maverick. Consider a cigarette lighter style voltage monitor in your car to verify 14.4v on bus. The noco g5 is necessary to optimize battery also.

 

[mcluvin]

I didn't remove the tabs when I did mine, though I'll probably take a closer look at that the next time I do it. The battery appeared to be sitting flat and I was able to bolt down the security clamp without issue. It's firmly in place. I did have to remove panels. I'd probably just try to bend the one closest to the door out of the way vs. removing. I managed to break something when I did that one. The others just pull right out. All the panels fit back in place with the larger battery installed.

 

[scotty]

I didn't remove the tabs when I did mine, though I'll probably take a closer look at that the next time I do it. The battery appeared to be sitting flat and I was able to bolt down the security clamp without issue. It's firmly in place. I did have to remove panels. I'd probably just try to bend the one closest to the door out of the way vs. removing. I managed to break something when I did that one. The others just pull right out. All the panels fit back in place with the larger battery installed.

Now that's a nice write up you gave us because it reduce some uncertainty. Couple questions though.

Thanks for letting us know that the tabs the battery sits on doesn't need to be bent down or cut off, something I wasn't looking forward to do.

Maybe I got it wrong about the metal tabs. Does the battery sit on tabs? Could you tells what the purpose of those tabs were?

So with those tabs in place, were you still able to close the battery compartment door without hitting into the positive and negative and connectors on top of the battery?

So summarize: bend the threshold trim, (the piece that someone would step over when entering the back seat). to reduce potential breaking something like a tab on the threshold piece.

Then there are two other pieces of trim to remove after bending the threshold in order to slip out the other trim piece.

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