Top End cleaner to prevent carbon buildup on valve stems.

[jb_cb900]

Haven't found a thread that talks about this process using Top End Engine Cleaner:
In days gone by, I would use Top End Engine Cleaner to remove deposits from the combustion chamber. The process was to connect a tube to a full vacuum port, then start a hot engine, rev it up, and suck the Top End cleaner out of the can through the intake. Repeat several times without stalling the engine. On the final draw out of the can, allow the engine to stall. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then repeat the process with water. I know this would actually get solvent to the valve stems, but, would it be suffient to breakup the deposits? I can't imagine they'd be any tougher than removing what is inside the combustion chamber. If worthwhile, I thought it may be a conveint alternative to having walnut blasting every X number miles. Any thoughts, recomendations are greatly appreciated.

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[Tim d]

Haven't found a thread that talks about this process using Top End Engine Cleaner:
In days gone by, I would use Top End Engine Cleaner to remove deposits from the combustion chamber. The process was to connect a tube to a full vacuum port, then start a hot engine, rev it up, and suck the Top End cleaner out of the can through the intake. Repeat several times without stalling the engine. On the final draw out of the can, allow the engine to stall. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then repeat the process with water. I know this would actually get solvent to the valve stems, but, would it be suffient to breakup the deposits? I can't imagine they'd be any tougher than removing what is inside the combustion chamber. If worthwhile, I thought it may be a conveint alternative to having walnut blasting every X number miles. Any thoughts, recomendations are greatly appreciated.

Not concerned about this, just gonna drive it,hopefully this Ford will be as reliable as my mopars.

 

[TKranbuhl]

Not a concern. Just use Top Tier Fuel.

 

[Master Blaster]

Engine cleaner is unnecessary if you use the specified oil and fuel. The additional detergents are already in both.

 

[Montauk]

I have an F-150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost and I use this every 5,000 miles. PEA is the magic ingredient. After reading and also watching a couple Lake Speed vids on how much difference it makes I decided it cant hurt and likely helps.

With the EcoBoost I also absolutely, definitely change the oil at 5,000 mile or less intervals.

 

[sanpablo]

Haven't found a thread that talks about this process using Top End Engine Cleaner:
In days gone by, I would use Top End Engine Cleaner to remove deposits from the combustion chamber. The process was to connect a tube to a full vacuum port, then start a hot engine, rev it up, and suck the Top End cleaner out of the can through the intake. Repeat several times without stalling the engine. On the final draw out of the can, allow the engine to stall. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then repeat the process with water. I know this would actually get solvent to the valve stems, but, would it be suffient to breakup the deposits? I can't imagine they'd be any tougher than removing what is inside the combustion chamber. If worthwhile, I thought it may be a conveint alternative to having walnut blasting every X number miles. Any thoughts, recomendations are greatly appreciated.

I use the CRC intake valve cleaner on my wife's DI 2015 Honda CRV every 20,000 miles. Many disagree but for $10-12 I'm comfortable using it. I spray it in the brake booster port on the intake.

 

[Master Blaster]

I have an F-150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost and I use this every 5,000 miles. PEA is the magic ingredient. After reading and also watching a couple Lake Speed vids on how much difference it makes I decided it cant hurt and likely helps.

With the EcoBoost I also absolutely, definitely change the oil at 5,000 mile or less intervals.

If you use the TopTier specified fuel then it is loaded with PEA and no additional additive is required. That and using the specified spec oil that has much lower volatiile chemicals to gum up the intake valves via the PCV and ring leakage and this engine will go an awful lot more miles than you think. It just does not like cheap fuel and oil.
The 3.5 EcoBoost is not a pure direct-injection engine, and uses a port injector as well when you put your foot into it. So the experience is not the same, as the intake valve does get a fuel wash.

 

[Richard2212]

If you use the TopTier specified fuel then it is loaded with PEA and no additional additive is required. That and using the specified spec oil that has much lower volatiile chemicals to gum up the intake valves via the PCV and ring leakage and this engine will go an awful lot more miles than you think. It just does not like cheap fuel and oil.
The 3.5 EcoBoost is not a pure direct-injection engine, and uses a port injector as well when you put your foot into it. So the experience is not the same, as the intake valve does get a fuel wash.

I prefer installing a PVC Oil Catch Can System.

 

[TheSEARCH]

The ONLY thing that works is an oil catch can. Fuel type wont stop the formation of build up oil deposits on the intake valves.

As far as cleaner the videos I have seen show they do little . BUT maybe there are some that work? BUT I would be concerned about clogging the cat converter or messing up O2 sensors.

ONLY about 2.0 engine NOT the 2.5 hybrid engine as its port injected. .

 

[Boosted]

Haven't found a thread that talks about this process using Top End Engine Cleaner:
In days gone by, I would use Top End Engine Cleaner to remove deposits from the combustion chamber. The process was to connect a tube to a full vacuum port, then start a hot engine, rev it up, and suck the Top End cleaner out of the can through the intake. Repeat several times without stalling the engine. On the final draw out of the can, allow the engine to stall. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then repeat the process with water. I know this would actually get solvent to the valve stems, but, would it be suffient to breakup the deposits? I can't imagine they'd be any tougher than removing what is inside the combustion chamber. If worthwhile, I thought it may be a conveint alternative to having walnut blasting every X number miles. Any thoughts, recomendations are greatly appreciated.

I'm running dual catch cans. I get about four ounces every 2500 miles when I change my oil on the dirty side can and probably a mist just enough to wipe out with a rag on the other side. I also only run 93 Octane since the first tank I've put in it and now i'm adding auxiliary port injection. My port injection kit is on its way from speed performance out of New Jersey. I'll be having Edge AutoSport Tune my Maverick again this time for E85 mix as I already have a tune for 93 octane. The Ecoboost Maverick is starting to get development from performance companies which I'm excited about. Oh, and let me preemptively say.
To the guy that wants to comment, "what did that do to your gas mileage?" I don't give a rat

 

[AVC]

I'm running dual catch cans. I get about four ounces every 2500 miles when I change my oil on the dirty side can and probably a mist just enough to wipe out with a rag on the other side.

To that point....the Valvoline Restore & Protect oil apparently helps or eliminates intake valve deposits as enough oil mist make its way through the PCV system over time on most vehicles to soften/loosen and then prevent build up of deposits for direct injection engines. The product is also SP rated, and can be used all the time, if desired. Longer intervals are encouraged (7500 mi or more) if you intend to use it only every other, or every third interval.

The Mav EcoBoost would benefit from this, but the Hybrid, probably not as much, as good detergent fuel (Top Tier, etc) will address intake valve deposits for port injected engines, like the 2.5L Atkinson.

I am currently using R&P on a 2020 Honda Pilot (~60k mi) and will keep it in there for my typical 10k interval.

 

[shrek]

I have an F-150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost and I use this every 5,000 miles. PEA is the magic ingredient. After reading and also watching a couple Lake Speed vids on how much difference it makes I decided it cant hurt and likely helps.

That does absolutely nothing for the backside of the intake valves. the 2.0L DIRECT INJECTION means it is sprayed into the combustion chamber directly. Not in front of the valves. THe crud that gets stuck to the valves is oil vapor and moisture from the PCV system.
THe only real fix is either installing catch cans (helps) or what @sanpablo is using.
Fuel system treatments are snake oil for the ecoboosts. You are correct that it cant hurt. But it does absolutely nothing to the backside of the intake valve. If you had a "port" Injected engine; then the additive would work.
BUt again, it wont hurt your engine. Just not gonna clean the deposits that are on the backside of the intake valves.
I had to have my wifes 2020 2.0L edge walnut blasted at 50K due to the engine started running rough. THat was the fix as the deposits were too thick by then for the CRC Valve cleaner to do any good.

I added catch cans and I will do the CRC at the next oil change. (20K) miles. (On my Maverick that is) Sold the 2020 Edge and she now has a 2024 Edge.

 

[shrek]

That does absolutely nothing for the backside of the intake valves. the 2.0L DIRECT INJECTION means it is sprayed into the combustion chamber directly. Not in front of the valves. THe crud that gets stuck to the valves is oil vapor and moisture from the PCV system.
THe only real fix is either installing catch cans (helps) or what @sanpablo is using.
Fuel system treatments are snake oil for the ecoboosts. You are correct that it cant hurt. But it does absolutely nothing to the backside of the intake valve. If you had a "port" Injected engine; then the additive would work.
BUt again, it wont hurt your engine. Just not gonna clean the deposits that are on the backside of the intake valves.
I had to have my wifes 2020 2.0L edge walnut blasted at 50K due to the engine started running rough. THat was the fix as the deposits were too thick by then for the CRC Valve cleaner to do any good.

I added catch cans and I will do the CRC at the next oil change. (20K) miles.

@Montauk
I didnt know the 3.5L ecoboost had additional port injection. I recant that it will do nothing for your situation. But it will NOT do any good on the 2.0L Direct Injection engine. No fuel wash across those valves.

 

[am_fm_radio]

Last 12 years my next door neighbor was CEO of BG Products. Degree in Chemistry (petrolium) out of U of Oklahoma. He passed 2 years ago.
About the only product you can buy over the counter is their K44.. Mind you, it is about $20+ a bottle.

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-platinum-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/

BG products also makes quite a line of products that because of EPA and such can only be sold in Service centers by authorized mechanics. as some products needs recycling.


My last vehicle I I bought new and sold it for the Maverick. It was direct injection turbo 2.0 liter 4 cylinder., 11 years old and had 152,000+ miles on it when my nephew bought it 3 months ago.

Any time the mileage dropped from 30-32mpg to like 27mpg .. in would go a bottle of K44...

THe mileage would kick right back up 30-32 mpg.. even when the car had over 130,000 miles. during that 11 years I used maybe 3-4 bottles...

That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

 

[Packer Bill]

With the EcoBoost I also absolutely, definitely change the oil at 5,000 mile or less intervals.

I agree with oil changes every 5000 miles. I use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil.

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