My thoughts on CV axles - possible design flaw? (self replacement, tear down, tips on DIY-ing)

[thev8man]

2022 FX4, 4k tow, 28k miles, 1 inch rough country leveling kit on front suspension, 1.5 inch Eibach rear springs.

The truck started to get a slight rumble at close to 20k miles, after reading online about the CV axles, I knew this was the issue. I waited hoping Ford was going to issue a TSB or recall and a year went by and the rumble was getting worse and worse. A few weeks ago I took some friends golfing and had 5 people in the car and the bed loaded up. Upon accelerating up a hill, the truck was shaking so bad, steering wheel and whole front end was shaking back and forth in sync with depressing the throttle and I decided I needed to swap them.

Decided to do this myself to try and figure out why this is happening to so many Mavericks, the Axles are cheap, and I have serious trust issues with other people touching my vehicles (14 year Aircraft mechanic).

After replacing the axles, my truck literally drove like brand new again, I couldnt believe how bad the rumble had gotten and how used to it I was.

art Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
nz6z3b436b​	Axle Assembly​	$111.98​	1​	$111.98​
NZ6Z-3B437-C​	Shaft Front Axle​	$113.63​	1​	$113.63​

Subtotal: $225.61​

Estimated Shipping to 84111 via Standard Shipping: $58.61​

Tax: $16.62​

Discount: -$11.28​

Total: $289.56​

Total from Tasca parts online.

I think the problem is the Right Hand Axle with the female spline on the inboard axle. This was the only axle I could feel by hand that had play, it was wobbly when I grabbed and shook it (radial play) while it was installed on the truck. Looking at the splines, it has 2 splines that dont exist, I have no idea why they would do this, there is no master spline on the male end coming out of the PTU, the Male end is fully splined. With the 2 splines missing, I think its more susceptible to increased wear from vibration. The new Axle also came with the female spline with big gaps 180degree out.

Wear on the inside of the Inboard female spline housing

When this happens again, Im only going to replace the Right hand axle and see what happens.

TIPS ON REPLACEMENT

I know alot of people might be out of warranty and looking to do this yourself, Its really not that bad if you dont follow the Ford Manual (LOL)

Ford manual wants you to disconnect the lower control arm, good lucking getting the lower ball joint out. The lower ball joint is one of the worst designs ive ever seen and as far as I can tell, its not replaceable, you have to replace the lower control arm as a whole. Do yourself a favor and spray rust prevention on the lower ball joint right now for the future, there is a recess in the Lower control arm at the top of the ball joint where salt/water can accumulate and form rust. I modified a tie rod splitting tool to make it work but decided to remove the knuckle from the strut instead. There is very little room for any leverage, if the vehicles on a lift you could more easily remove the lower ball joint

How I found it easy to replace the Axles.

-Break lugnut/Axle nut torque on the ground. (deep 32mm for Axle nut)
-Disconnect Tierod
-Disconnect ABS wire supports
-Disconnect upper sway bar link (you will need to jack up lower control arm to relieve pressue on Sway Bar)
-support knuckle with cam strap to strut
-Disconnect and hammer out both Strut Bolts
-Hammer Axle in hub to loosen bond in wheel bearing(dont damage threads)
-Pry between transmission housing and axle housing to defeat circlip on Axle (I hope your strong, will take all your body strength)

Plan on having 2 quarts of ULV ATF on hand, I lost about a quart on the left hand side after pulling the axle.

I can do each side in an hour now, really not bad.

I really hope Ford figures this out, its not a big deal for me if I have to do this every couple of years for not that much $. But I understand for most people that have to pay for this to be done, the cost can be brutal. I am guessing this will be well over 1000$ to have the dealer do this?

MISC Torques

-Lugnuts 150 lb Feet
-Axle nut 76 lb Feet + 45degrees
-Strut to Knuckle bolts 103 lb Feet + 120degrees
-Upper sway bar link 81 lb feet
-Tie Rod to knuckle 35 lb feet

Booyah
Thank you for the in depth read and descriptive photos.

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[PhilSmith]

Re lower control arms, check ROCKAUTO for Mevotech replacements with greaseable balljoints.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...tric/gas,3451087,suspension,control+arm,10401

 

[801Maverick801]

Re lower control arms, check ROCKAUTO for Mevotech replacements with greaseable balljoints.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...tric/gas,3451087,suspension,control+arm,10401

Are Mevotech products any good?

 

[801Maverick801]

Did they deny OP a warranty claim? I thought OP was just doing this to showcase the potential faults and never bothered taking it in.



Those numbers are great. Assuming that every single one of the 38k you mentioned participates actively and reads this thread or even still owns a maverick - or ever did lol.

It's happening. We know as much. The evidence is there from users with unmodified suspension. How many? We will never know because companies like FORD don't release that data. It would only make them look bad.

But I agree with most in that it's a bit funny to get mad at the company when you modify the suspension and steering angles. If we know the problem exists, why bother? What do you actually gain from a 1" level? Because the negatives far outweigh literally the only thing you do gain - approach angle by mm's.

I didnt talk to a dealership, the axles were cheap and there was enough reports on here for me to be interested in doing a little investigation. Also I like doing my own work, not under-paid/under-appreciated technicians.

If the Axles were like 500$ a peice, then I wouldnt have been able to justify this.

 

[801Maverick801]

Use tremors on the std ecoboost

about $ 405
The boots and grease suck on all of them.
Hybrid needs an equivalent to tremors .
Comparison of tremors to hybrid proken pass side i have too.

Do you have a photo of the female splines on the Tremor Axle? (right hand axle)

 

[801Maverick801]

I've had a little vibration since basically day one, but very minor and only at a certain RPM around peak torque, maybe 2000-2400. Perhaps I will be in for this repair too.

What makes the ball join unreplaceable? I am am machinist and have replaced lots of unreplaceable parts...

Well they dont even sell a seperate Ball Joint for the Maverick. The only serviceable item on the lower control arm is the Vertical rubber bushing.

All things are possible with the right amount of knowledge and tooling. If you figure it out, let us know.

 

[Bwicka]

Well they dont even sell a seperate Ball Joint for the Maverick. The only serviceable item on the lower control arm is the Vertical rubber bushing.

All things are possible with the right amount of knowledge and tooling. If you figure it out, let us know.

I just went 1” uniball and a poly bushing and rebuildable Jonnie joint

Well they dont even sell a seperate Ball Joint for the Maverick. The only serviceable item on the lower control arm is the Vertical rubber bushing.

All things are possible with the right amount of knowledge and tooling. If you figure it out, let us know.

Well they dont even sell a seperate Ball Joint for the Maverick. The only serviceable item on the lower control arm is the Vertical rubber bushing.

All things are possible with the right amount of knowledge and tooling. If you figure it out, let us know.

I went 1” uniball , with a poly bushing inboard a rebuildable jonnie joint

 

[The Metal Butcher]

Well they dont even sell a seperate Ball Joint for the Maverick. The only serviceable item on the lower control arm is the Vertical rubber bushing.

All things are possible with the right amount of knowledge and tooling. If you figure it out, let us know.

The truck is pretty new. Probably not much aftermarket. How is it installed? I can't tell from the diagram. Pressed in and staked?

@Bwicka Nice man! You have skills beyond my current abilities. What was your goal with the new design besides repair-ability?

 

[Bwicka]

The truck is pretty new. Probably not much aftermarket. How is it installed? I can't tell from the diagram. Pressed in and staked?

@Bwicka Nice man! You have skills beyond my current abilities. What was your goal with the new design besides repair-ability?

Survival, along with the lightweight sheatmetal crossmember , being replaced with chromoly too .in testing phase with that , will post once it is dialed.the new crossmember will be a 4” lift item with steering correction and slight correction for axle shaft angle and wheelbase to accommodate 33” tires with total clearance throughout travel .eventually a + 31/2” arm per side for up to 12” wheel travel .and about 6” total lift with the tires , while keeping axle angle at road going angles within a degree, degree and a half of stock.
Kind of old stadium truck stance and travel from mickey Thompson days.but 4 wheel independant.

 

[Master Blaster]

I guess I'm not understanding from your pictures how this will actually fit. A 4" lift and keeping the CV joint angles would mean that you're dropping the engine/trans by the same amount. How does that work?

 

[colinl]

I guess I'm not understanding from your pictures how this will actually fit. A 4" lift and keeping the CV joint angles would mean that you're dropping the engine/trans by the same amount. How does that work?

it's all explained in several of his threads. this is the main/original one: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/prerunner-style-maverick-tremor-build-w-33s.40538/

you can find the rest by clicking under his name on the left, 'threads'.

 

[AVC]

Are Mevotech products any good?

Their rubber compounds tend to be junk; cracks, hardening and disintegration in 12 to 24 months, depending on temp, ozone, salt, etc., in my experience.

 

[Buyerfind]

You are the first person with an unmodified Maverick that's chimed in on this thread anyway. I'm sure there's more, but it may not be the huge numbers that a few people are saying. You live in Florida. I wonder if major rainfall or some other environmental factor might have some effect on the failures? I'm not saying that the cause, but perhaps the CV boots are allowing water to intrude.

No more than usual as far as rainfall. I drive roughly 40-50 miles a day, six days a week. Once a quarter about another 200 miles per month. Never been off road. Eco mode 85% of the time, the rest of the time I forget to select eco mode.

 

[mcluvin]

I know the axle is Hyundai but has anyone figured out where the bearings were actually made? I'm betting not Japan or North America.

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