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DadsLariat

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There are some other, older threads on this subject, but I can't seem to find them. So, I decided to start a new one (this got a little long, sorry !). This concerns the large, open underbody cavity behind the left rear (drivers side ) tire. You need to crawl under your truck to see the issue. Lots of exposed wiring, no protection for the inner quarter body panel and you can see the tail light assembly. MTC members complain about potential rust issues or getting dirt and mud thrown up and accumulating in that area. Here in the midwest, I'm more worried about snow and salt being packed in there. Also, there was a thread about right rear tail lights malfunctioning. Could it be all the crap being sprayed up there. Just sayin' !!

I finally picked up my '24 Lariat Hybrid after a 16 month wait. Before it saw any rain or snow, I used some of the ideas i remember from other threads and designed my own shield.

First, I made a cardboard template and made sure it fit and covered the cavity. Then traced it to the metal, cut and drilled once.

I used a heavier grade of galvanized sheet metal, a little thicker than duct work metal, but that would work too (Or any other type of sheet metal). I was able to cut it with tin snips. You need some skills, but it's not to hard.

The final piece measured 13" x 23".

See the attached pictures for my design and measurements. My piece was a little short so I just screwed on the extra tabs that extend to the bumper.

The shield is straight, no bending or shaping.

The mounting point by the tire is a little higher that the mount point by the bumper. No need to worry about bending around the silver shielded, low hanging wire. (See pictures).

It's not meant to a exact, water tight fit, just keep the spray, mud and snow out.

For mounting, I used existing holes:

1) Right behind the tire, there were 2, 5/8" square holes. I drilled 1/2" holes in my shield (picture has smaller holes) and used toggle bolts and fender washers to secure the shield.

2) towards the bumper, there was existing hole in the bumper mount frame that I used. Needed a 1", 5/16" lag bolt. I inserted the lag bolt ( a little tricky in that tight space), then a nut to tighten in place. I then used a fender washer and locking nut to attach the shield.

3) this one could be optional. I used an "L" bracket and similar to #2 above, used a bolt and nut to create another mounting point. I had to move 1 wire to free up a hole to mount the "L" bracket.

If you expand the "before" picture, you can see to the 2 silver mounting bolts.

Once built and fitted, I cleaned and sanded the new shield and primed, then painted it black. Not sure if the paint will hold up; we'll see.

I used bolts, fender washers and nuts that I had laying around, painted them too. Once it warms up, I'll look into replacing them with more rust resistant hardware. Stainless, galvanized ?

Thank you to the MTC members who crawled under the back of their Mavericks and discovered this overlooked shield and brought it to our attention. There are great solutions from other MTC members, mine is just another option.

Before, from the factory, picture. Already showing splatter !
Ford Maverick DIY - build shield to cover underbody cavity behind left rear tire PXL_20240211_222339417


My shield picture
Ford Maverick DIY - build shield to cover underbody cavity behind left rear tire PXL_20240211_221306230


After picture
Ford Maverick DIY - build shield to cover underbody cavity behind left rear tire PXL_20240214_171241364


Design and measurements
Ford Maverick DIY - build shield to cover underbody cavity behind left rear tire PXL_20240217_155459859
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CD_SM

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Nice.
I am actually thinking of building something similar using Kydex since I have a piece hanging around. (Being in SoCal I'm not too worried about rust, but it still seems like a good idea to close it up).
 

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Bob The Builder

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I got nowhere near as intricate as that. Too lazy I guess. I fabricated a 12" x 10" piece of 1/4' ABS plastic and used the two existing holes installing 1/4-20 bolts with a 1/2" standoff. Works great, no more crap going up and leaking through between the tail light and rear quarter. All in all about 15 minutes work.
 
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Bob The Builder

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DadsLariat

DadsLariat

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2.5L Hybrid
I have a piece of black pvc plastic that I was going to use, but a friend gave me the sheet on galvanized metal. The shield is about 1 1/2" from the exhaust pipe. Not sure how hot it gets.

Also, I did not undercoat anything yet. I may take off the shield this summer and do a little undercoating and replace my mounting bolts with galvanized bolts.
 
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Deweyordeweynot

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I have a piece of black pvc plastic that I was going to use, but a friend gave me the sheet on galvanized metal. The shield is about 1 1/2" from the exhaust pipe. Not sure how hot it gets.

Also, I did not undercoat anything yet. I may take off the shield this summer and do a little undercoating and replace my mounting bolts with galvanized bolts.
Definitely agree with the galvanized bolts idea...nice work and thanks for the template (my measuring skills need work)!
 

Deweyordeweynot

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Mxer97

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I got nowhere near as intricate as that. Too lazy I guess. I fabricated a 12" x 10" piece of 1/4' ABS plastic and used the two existing holes installing 1/4-20 bolts with a 1/2" standoff. Works great, no more crap going up and leaking through between the tail light and rear quarter. All in all about 15 minutes work.
Let’s see it! I’m about to order the sheet.
 

Bob The Builder

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Let’s see it! I’m about to order the sheet.
I try and get a pic. Snow and slush today so I will do my best.
 

Bob The Builder

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Is 12" x 12" sufficiently covering the cavity? I ask because the template from the sheet metal shield is 13" X 23"...and I'm a tad concerned about the proximity to the exhaust pipe...that would literally stink!
First time I drove my truck in a very light rain I noticed crap coming out between the tail light and their body. After installing the shield there is no more of that and that includes driving in heavy slush and crap so I see 100% improvement in that area. As for heat, I debated that and say that ABS will not even become formable until 100C with is 212F. I doubt it will get that hot or even close to it given the air gap. I have checked it a few time and it looks perfect, just dirty. LOL.
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