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Telemachus

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For auto stop/start:

Your circuit grounds pin 4 of connector C3010, correct?

And if I remember correctly, the brilliance is that you read the output of the LED light to verify that it was turned off (well, on).
So when I follow pin 4 to connector C302, it looks like it should be pin 45.

I don't have an EB to test it, but someone told be they tried grounding that pin, but it did not turn off the auto start/stop.

Ford Maverick DIY - Disable Auto Start / Stop + Default to a Drive Mode (MY ‘25 update) Screenshot_20231008_145331_Adobe Acrobat


Ford Maverick DIY - Disable Auto Start / Stop + Default to a Drive Mode (MY ‘25 update) Screenshot_20231116_120332_Adobe Acrobat


Ford Maverick DIY - Disable Auto Start / Stop + Default to a Drive Mode (MY ‘25 update) Screenshot_20231116_120714_Adobe Acrobat
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So when I follow pin 4 to connector C302, it looks like it should be pin 45.

I don't have an EB to test it, but someone told be they tried grounding that pin, but it did not turn off the auto start/stop.

Screenshot_20231008_145331_Adobe Acrobat.jpg


Screenshot_20231116_120332_Adobe Acrobat.jpg


Screenshot_20231116_120714_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
I’ll have to look. I recall in the CubanRedneck’s video that something didn’t work if you tap at the main harness, something about the resistance not being the same as right at the switch. Watch that and see if that syncs up.
I do tap right at the button switch block, so I didn’t run into any of that.
 

Telemachus

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Yes, I remember him saying that as well.

Maybe a 100ohm resistor in line would take care of it.

That's what I found worked when wiring in a button in the truck bed to turn on the cargo lights.
 
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Yes, I remember him saying that as well.

Maybe a 100ohm resistor in line would take care of it.

That's what I found worked when wiring in a button in the truck bed to turn on the cargo lights.
What is odd is that did your Eco mod at that connector. Would think it would be the same for Auto S/S.
Maybe that one does go through the gear selector, and maybe that is why there is the resistance issue.

I don’t see how the wiring, for Auto S/S would be different between a Hybrid and Ecoboost.

Maybe put a scope on the wire, then press the actual Auto S/S wire to make sure nothing funky is going on. Sure hope it isn’t converted to a PWM somehow.
 

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What is odd is that did your Eco mod at that connector. Would think it would be the same for Auto S/S.
Maybe that one does go through the gear selector, and maybe that is why there is the resistance issue.

I don’t see how the wiring, for Auto S/S would be different between a Hybrid and Ecoboost.

Maybe put a scope on the wire, then press the actual Auto S/S wire to make sure nothing funky is going on. Sure hope it isn’t converted to a PWM somehow.
I don't think there's any chance that it is converted to a pulse signal.

Ultimately, you activate the start/stop by just grounding it. I am just trying to do the same further down the line.

Problem is, I don't have an EcoBoost any longer to play with.
 

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I don't think there's any chance that it is converted to a pulse signal.
I agreed.

Ultimately, you activate the start/stop by just grounding it. I am just trying to do the same further down the line.
Yeah, that should work.
Wonder what ground they used. Won’t think there are separate/isolated circuits, so any should work. Maybe they didn’t have a solid connection to ground?
With what @CubanRedneck said about not doing it at the main harness and that person finding it didn’t work, makes me wonder that something odd is going on. Your post shows it is the same circuit, so you wou think the resistance changes, but maybe.
 

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I agreed.


Yeah, that should work.
Wonder what ground they used. Won’t think there are separate/isolated circuits, so any should work. Maybe they didn’t have a solid connection to ground?
With what @CubanRedneck said about not doing it at the main harness and that person finding it didn’t work, makes me wonder that something odd is going on. Your post shows it is the same circuit, so you wou think the resistance changes, but maybe.
I have found some instances working on the back harnesses under the bed where a resistor is needed, however when the length of wire is long enough the resistor is no longer needed.

Maybe it just has something to do with the extra distance to the push buttons.

Hard to tell without a truck to test it on, lol.
 

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I have the Ecoboost. I feel it takes ‘too’ long to start. If I need to get out the way, move quickly, it doesn’t react fast enough. HVAC fan changes a little. And I’m old school, and don’t the idea of what it is doing to the battery.

Same for me, the wife's car has this "feature" and it is just annoying as well as not having A/C at a 2 minute stop light at 108 degrees is long enough to get hot air blowing out of the vents.
 

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I updated my original post with what I have done on my ‘25.
 

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I’ve resigned myself to turning it off just being part of my preflight check list.
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