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Mabcim

Mabcim

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The engine will start as soon as it needs the AC (over 100 it doesn't shut off on my EcoSport), the hybrid AC runs of the 400volt battery.
I have also read it isn’t supposed turn off if the wheel is turned, like sitting in the intersection. It has done that to me. Didn’t seem safe to me at all.
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GPSMan

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Air Conditioning is abysmal when the engine is off, for one.
What!?!?
You sound as if you have and EcoBoost.

mine's fine. At least into the 80's and 90's. Never been in triple digits.

Who here is confusing Hybrids with EcoBoosts?

EcoBoost only have the option of start/stop disable.

Both trucks need the mode select hack. For my Hybrid, I only need the mode select hack.
 
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Telemachus

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What!?!?
You sound as if you have and EcoBoost.

mine's fine. At least into the 80's and 90's. Never been in triple digits.

Who here is confusing Hybrids with EcoBoosts?

EcoBoost only have the option of start/stop disable.

Both trucks need the mode select hack. For my Hybrid, I only need the mode select hack.
Had an EB. Sold it before the hybrid came in.

I have experience with both.
 

Telemachus

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Or maybe because I have a Lariat?
That is interesting. Even if I do it by manually pushing the button, I always have to do an extra push when I first get in the car.

Maybe it is the different instrument cluster.
 
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That is interesting. Even if I do it by manually pushing the button, I always have to do an extra push when I first get in the car.

Maybe it is the different instrument cluster.
Wouldn’t be surprised. Being a totally different size and look, there has to be some large code differences between them.

However, I though your previous post said you had an instance where you didn’t need the extra press?
 

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Telemachus

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Wouldn’t be surprised. Being a totally different size and look, there has to be some large code differences between them.

However, I though your previous post said you had an instance where you didn’t need the extra press?
Yes. If the car has been started within the last several minutes then it is not needed. Not quite sure what time frame though
 
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Yes. If the car has been started within the last several minutes then it is not needed. Not quite sure what time frame though
Interesting. When I was testing, I was turning the car on and off a bunch of times in a row. Tried remote start and push button start.
 

rivermaverick

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I have the Ecoboost. I feel it takes ‘too’ long to start. If I need to get out the way, move quickly, it doesn’t react fast enough. HVAC fan changes a little. And I’m old school, and don’t the idea of what it is doing to the battery.
I don't like to have the engine idling, I believe in Switzerland it's illegal to have your vehicle idling at a light or railroad crossing. Don't know how or if they enforce this. I'm told if you are sitting with the engine idling people will scowl and point at you:(.
 

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Welcome to my DIY Auto Start/Stop disable and defaulting to a Drive Mode project!

I know there are other ways of doing some of this, but I wanted a DIY project for multiple reasons.

I realized there are other ways of doing this, and I will touch on why I choose to not use them, I'm hoping we can keep this thread focused on this project and a friendly conversation.

First, I will digress a little. Besides this project, I also wanted to install a Ford auto dimming mirror and homelink garage opener. I wanted to make a harness for that as well, and not just tap into the factory harness. Since that project also needed similar connectors and wires, I was able to buy everything for both projects at once. I already had the mirror and homelink before I even got my Maverick, and before the Cheap Auto Dimming Mirror thread got started. Eventually, I'll write a post about the mirror and homelink project.
Edit 5/28/23: DIY - Garage Opener and Ford Auto Dimming Mirror | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Okay, back to this project.

There is the $100 Auto Start Stop Eliminator. It plugs into the ODBII port. That means it is on the CAN Bus doing something to make the change, but I didn't know what. People do use it and like it, so you could use that instead if all you want is to disable Auto Start/Stop. I did not want to spend the $100 to get just Auto Start/Stop disable and have something that I didn't know how it was working. BTW - All the parts for both of my projects, minus the mirror and homelink, were less than $100.

There is a wire at the battery you can disconnect, that disables Auto Start/Stop. Again, people have done it and it seems to work for them. I have seen posts where it doesn't work exactly the same as just pressing Auto Start/Stop button, which I can agree with since disconnecting the wire makes the vehicle think your battery is too low to do Auto Start/Stop. I believe it may impact how the vehicle tries to charge the battery. Either way, it is not a good thing to have disconnected if you go in for service.

There is a way in ForScan to disable Auto Start/Stop. Many people are happy with that. That seems to light up the circled 'A' on the instrument cluster, indicating Auto Start/Stop is not available. Like it does while the vehicle is warming up and not ready to do it yet. I do not see that light when I press the button to disable Auto Start/Stop. So, like the battery wire disconnect option, I'm not sure what else could behave differently.

Bottom-line, I wanted something that acts the same as if I pressed the Auto Start/Stop button. And the engineer in me figured there had to be a way to create a circuit to 'press the button' for me.

Then came along the following 'Default Eco-Mode with this DIY Module' thread from @CubanRedneck
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/default-to-eco-mode-with-this-diy-module.17805/
This inspired me since he gave good details on how to take apart the center console and did the legwork on the buttons. He used some relays and mentioned how it could maybe be done with solid state components. Since I was going to do that for Auto Start/Stop disable, I figured I would help the community and add a way to set the default Drive Mode to my project.

What I didn't realize was all the issues around powering my circuit. This is mostly around the typically used Fuse 3 being powered when the vehicle is remote started and that you cannot change Drive Modes then. I have detailed my findings in my attached project document.

I also wanted to go a step further and make it so you could change the settings whenever you want to, without re-programming the circuit or changing code. I make use of the vehicle buttons themselves to allow you to change the settings. So, if you were towing for a couple days, you could default to Tow/Haul, then go back to Normal or Eco or whatever your favorite Drive Mode is. The other advantage is that you can have it put things back to factory settings, for those times you go in for service.

I have created this project, so it is flexible for your needs. You do not need to implement all the circuits; you can do just the ones you want. For example, if you just want to do Auto Start/Stop or just Drive Mode, you can. If you do not want to be able to change the settings whenever, then you don't have to. You can also use whichever power you want, Fuse 3 (remote started power) or Fuse 6 (fully started power). All you have to do is tweak a couple of program settings. I have fully described how to do this in my document and code.

At high-level, I am using an Arduino and circuitry. Nothing is stored in the vehicle, just the Arduino. The Arduino simulates you pressing the button. I created a wiring harness to go between the Auto Start/Stop & Driver Mode button module and the factory harness. You could just tap off the factory harness if you want to. I ended up using Fuse 3 because a normal fuse tap does not fit in Fuse 6; which added a lot more time to this project, but helped make it more flexible for you.

My attached document goes through everything from the how I figured out the connectors, to what to purchase, to where to purchase, to creating the wiring harness, to schematic, to layouts of the different options, to actual pictures; everything you need to know!

I have done a lot of testing but realize this is buyer beware. No warranty expressed or written. Use it at your own risk. With that out of the way, if you have any questions let me know.

NOTE: to use the Arduino code you will have rename the attached file by deleting the ".txt" extension, or just copy the contents of the file into your Arduino project file
Booyah 👊🏽 😁 👍🏽 🇺🇸 to both of ya'll. Saw the redneck Cuban do it on YouTube but reading in is a bit easier to palate.
 
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In case people are following this thread, I just added a couple people’s other options to the bottom of main post.
 
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For auto stop/start:

Your circuit grounds pin 4 of connector C3010, correct?

And if I remember correctly, the brilliance is that you read the output of the LED light to verify that it was turned off (well, on).
 
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For auto stop/start:

Your circuit grounds pin 4 of connector C3010, correct?

And if I remember correctly, the brilliance is that you read the output of the LED light to verify that it was turned off (well, on).
Yes, Pin 4 ’shorted’ to ground.

Also, yes, about the LED. I had to do that to handle remote start, but only needed to change Drive Mode. Drive Mode cannot be changed until the vehicle is fully started. However, Auto S/S can happen if just remote started. So I order to change Drive Mode, I wait for the Auto S/S light to know the vehicle is fully started.
of course, that is needed because of the fuse being used.
 

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Yes, Pin 4 ’shorted’ to ground.

Also, yes, about the LED. I had to do that to handle remote start, but only needed to change Drive Mode. Drive Mode cannot be changed until the vehicle is fully started. However, Auto S/S can happen if just remote started. So I order to change Drive Mode, I wait for the Auto S/S light to know the vehicle is fully started.
of course, that is needed because of the fuse being used.
And because you just wanted to show off LOL.
 
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