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billbillw

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Interesting. I did "warm the engine up" for 5 minutes prior to doing the last change. Are you saying, next time just change the oil "cold" and compare the test results?
I would suggest trying to time the oil change to follow a longer drive (30+ minutes).

Let it cool for 15-20 minutes after stopping and be ready for the hot oil as it comes out of the drain.
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GPSMan

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I gotta be honest, I didn't even check the level prior to draining. However, I would not have noticed anyhow unless it had been WAY over full.

Now that I have these test results, I'll check the dipstick tomorrow and then monitor that as the baseline between now and my next change to see if there is any noticeable increase in fluid level.
Take a picture of the dipstick & scratch or somehow mark the oil level so you can detect a small change in the future. I don't think Sharpie Pen will last very long in hot, oily conditions.
 

Techcar

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Interesting. I did "warm the engine up" for 5 minutes prior to doing the last change. Are you saying, next time just change the oil "cold" and compare the test results?
5 minutes isn't long enough , the engine needs to run at FULL operating temperature for at least 20 minutes before taking the sample . This give the oil time to boil off any blow-by gas that has accumulated in the oil.
 

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colinl

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Fuel dilution is a product of never getting the oil up to operating temperature. Really high fuel dilution is a product of a cold start, short idle period and then an oil change. I have 4 DI Ford engines that regularly get up to temperature and oil changes are performed after cool down not after cold start. Never had the slightest fuel dilution.
this is the correct answer. the op needs to not shorten his interval. instead he needs to turn off autostop and operate the engine for at least 20 minutes preferably by driving rather than idling.

do that at least once a week and ensure you do that immediately before changing the oil. there is a very good chance your fuel dilution will test far lower.
 

Montana

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Yea I suspect my first one to be about the same honestly.

So I'll go with roughly 3k intervals - which to me - is twice a year so no big deal. I change around Nov before the snow sticks in on a warm(er) day and then again when the snow melts and the sun sits a little higher in the sky for those reasons. Mileage hasn't been a concern for me for a couple years now. When I drove 20k+ per year I would change slightly less, especially because it was majority highway miles and oil reports always looked good. But on the EB Maverick, no way I'm pushing beyond 4k max.
 

710-oil-614

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I would be mildly concerned if I saw +5% fuel in an analysis but I wouldn't be too upset as we know it is a byproduct of GDI engines (as you've stated) as well as specifically an EB "feature".

It does sound like your short drives that may not reach full operating temp could be contributing to it.

I don't plan on an oil analysis until my 3rd oil change at 10k (I'm currently sitting at 5,500 miles and just changed at 5k), but I expect to see some fuel at that report.

Things I'm doing to combat it:

  1. Top tier 93 octane only
  2. I added the engine block heater. Use it for 30-45 minutes in the morning now that temps in the garage are in the 40s. When I start my Tremor the high idle only lasts for around 3 seconds and it settles in around 950rpm and there is already 1 bar in the temp gauge
  3. Remote start and let vehicle idle and calm to 950rpm before driving
  4. Do my absolute best to not drive short trips where vehicle does not get to operating temp
  5. Change oil every 5k (or sooner in some cases) regardless of oil life maintenance minder
  6. Use Royal Purple 5W30 full synthetic and Fram's full synthetic filter good for up to 15k

I can attest that at just over 4400 miles on my last oil change (Mobil1 5W30 full syn - RP was backordered) the oil was dark black and definitely ready to be changed out.

It's not a nothing burger - but it isn't something to trade your Maverick in over. Just use proper caution and maintenance.
 

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Since we have FACTS here instead of the usual BS opinions on an oil thread...
I would be very concerned with 5% fuel load in the oil! I would be very suspicious of an injector over fueling for instance. While I might run it 3000 miles on this oil, and after a drive long enough to come up to full temperature then about 20 minutes of driving....change out that oil and draw the sample from the oil coming out of the drain plug.......
That would tell me more about a trend. If still at the 5% range I would talk with the Service department at my dealer to see if they want to get involved.
My Sons Ecoboost is coming up on 180,000 miles. Oil is changed often...but that is still at 10,000 mile intervals.
 

710-oil-614

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My Sons Ecoboost is coming up on 180,000 miles. Oil is changed often...but that is still at 10,000 mile intervals.
Have you ever had an oil analysis performed on his EB?
 
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realshelby

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Have you ever had an oil analysis performed on his EB?
No, that is his decision. He runs Castrol full sythetic and a Motorcraft filter. Uses no oil between changes. Oil looks good when drained, and I cannot detect any fuel smell from it. Regular 87 octane fuel most all the time.
 

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Noob questions to see if I am making the correct inferences:
- fuel dilution is common for GDI and more so when the engine is cold?
- running the engine on a trip for 20+ minutes would boil and/or burn some of the fuel out of the oil?
- the percentage of fuel dilution is variable across a trip, with higher concentrations likely on a cold day before the engine reaches full temp and lower concentrations at the end of the trip?
- so an oil sample taken from a cold engine after 5 minutes or less will show a higher fuel dilution than what the engine normally sees if it is typically run for 20 minutes or more?

if so, my take away is if you only drive 5m to the grocery store once a week you should change your oil more frequently as your engine is operating at a high fuel dilution state for more miles than designed
 

710-oil-614

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No, that is his decision. He runs Castrol full sythetic and a Motorcraft filter. Uses no oil between changes. Oil looks good when drained, and I cannot detect any fuel smell from it. Regular 87 octane fuel most all the time.
So it is entirely possible he has had upwards of 5% fuel dilution in his oil consistently (or at various points of the engine's life) and he has never known it - sometimes ignorance is bliss.
 

710-oil-614

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Noob questions to see if I am making the correct inferences:
- fuel dilution is common for GDI and more so when the engine is cold?
- running the engine on a trip for 20+ minutes would boil and/or burn some of the fuel out of the oil?
- the percentage of fuel dilution is variable across a trip, with higher concentrations likely on a cold day before the engine reaches full temp and lower concentrations at the end of the trip?
- so an oil sample taken from a cold engine after 5 minutes or less will show a higher fuel dilution than what the engine normally sees if it is typically run for 20 minutes or more?

if so, my take away is if you only drive 5m to the grocery store once a week you should change your oil more frequently as your engine is operating at a high fuel dilution state for more miles than designed
Short answer to your take away is - yes.

If you're taking shorter, infrequent trips in your EB (GDI engine) those can contribute to an increased level of fuel in your oil.

Fuel can decrease viscosity of the oil which can reduce the oil's ability to coat and protect the metal inside your engine - making cold (or any starts) harsher on the engine.

To combat this - you'll likely want to change your oil at a shorter interval than what your oil minder or factory interval suggests - but it is not entirely necessary either as many EBs survive following the oil life minder.

Fuel dilution in oil in GDI engines and specifically the EBs (2.0, 2.3, and older 2.7s) is a symptom of the engine design but it is not a death sentence by any means.

Both of my Subaru's boxer engines had oil consumption problems from the very start. Never leaked oil but would burn anywhere from 1-2.5 quarts between oil changes depending on the type of driving being done. They used watery oil (0w20) and the design of the boxer engine basically drains/drops all oil from the engine and into the pan when sitting. Both engines went over 150k for with zero issues when I got rid of them.

Point being - OPs engine is fine. So are all of ours.
 
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MakinDoForNow

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Interesting. I did "warm the engine up" for 5 minutes prior to doing the last change. Are you saying, next time just change the oil "cold" and compare the test results?
So after warming for only five minutes did you wait for 45-60 minutes for the oil to trickle reluctantly back to oil pan?
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